DIY: transmission fluid drain and fill - Page 4 - Hyundai Genesis Forum
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post #61 of 128 Old 07-06-2014
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Yes, but you don't have to cut a garden hose when you use the fill bolt you just
Pour it in. Also this way you don't end up with fulid in your face. You can lay down a drip pan and wait until it stops coming out lol
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post #62 of 128 Old 07-14-2014
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Thanks for the tip
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post #63 of 128 Old 08-12-2014
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Why is it questionable whether or not to reuse the crush washers? Does it really matter? If I took this to a Tires Plus, aren't they just going to reuse the crush washers anyways?
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post #64 of 128 Old 08-12-2014
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The drain one is at best at two timer. The fill one is no big deal.

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post #65 of 128 Old 08-12-2014
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Originally Posted by Red Raspberry View Post
The drain one is at best at two timer. The fill one is no big deal.
Yup. When you take the old washer off, you can see how it crushed and deformed. You could probably recrush it once and it would not leak, but for 76 cents or whatever Hyundai charges for a washer, why risk it?

As a side note, if I have to reuse a crush washer due to whatever reason, I will usually flip the washer over to the other side, which isn't crushed as much.

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post #66 of 128 Old 08-12-2014
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The gasket part number is 2151311000 and the newer cars have magnetic drain plugs. My 2010 does not. Here's the magnetic drain plug part number (only one they list now) 0081017121 around $5.

Make sure you have the gasket before doing the work as it took me two days to get one.

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post #67 of 128 Old 08-12-2014
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The gasket part number is 2151311000 and the newer cars have magnetic drain plugs. My 2010 does not. Here's the magnetic drain plug part number (only one they list now) 0081017121 around $5.

Make sure you have the gasket before doing the work as it took me two days to get one.
So, the 2014 has a magnetic drain plug, and it isn't necessary to buy another?
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post #68 of 128 Old 08-12-2014
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All I know is my 2010 does not have one. The part now is the same for all years and is called magnetic. I'm assuming they made a part number change and back dated it. Can't say what it is that you have.

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post #69 of 128 Old 08-12-2014
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All I know is my 2010 does not have one. The part now is the same for all years and is called magnetic. I'm assuming they made a part number change and back dated it. Can't say what it is that you have.
I got a new drain plug at the beginning of summer. The P/N was 0K95B-27121 and it has a gigantic magnet on it. The original drain plug in my 2012 was magnetic, but had a very small magnet on it that was recessed in the center of the plug.


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post #70 of 128 Old 08-14-2014
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Just to recap:

I need...

Transmission fluid: Redline Lightweight Shockproof

Differential fluid: Redline 75W90 GL-5 Gear Oil

I don't have a Limited Slip Differential though. Does that matter? RedLine makes it sound like it's for use with LSDs.
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post #71 of 128 Old 08-14-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inate71 View Post
Just to recap:

I need...

Transmission fluid: Redline Lightweight Shockproof
No. Redline MT85 is the correct fluid for the transmission.


Quote:
Originally Posted by inate71 View Post
Differential fluid: Redline 75W90 GL-5 Gear Oil

I don't have a Limited Slip Differential though. Does that matter? RedLine makes it sound like it's for use with LSDs.
this is the correct differential fluid. It has LSD friction modifier, but it doesn't really matter for our cars one way or the other. Even the gencoupe LSD doesn't require the additive as it uses a gear type LSD. LSD friction modifiers are required for clutch type LSD, which our cars do not have.
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post #72 of 128 Old 08-15-2014
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No. Redline MT85 is the correct fluid for the transmission.
What's the difference between that and Lightweight Shockproof? Someone else told me that's what I should use.
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post #73 of 128 Old 09-02-2014
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What's the difference between that and Lightweight Shockproof? Someone else told me that's what I should use.
I'm curious too on What's the difference?
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post #74 of 128 Old 09-02-2014
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I used the lightweight shockproof and would not use it again. It has Teflon in it I believe and is very hard to get out of the trans if you want to use something else. Sticks to all the internal parts.

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post #75 of 128 Old 11-15-2014
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Good info here.

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post #76 of 128 Old 12-01-2014
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Will be having a Stage 2 Comp Clutch installed, with ATQ SS and poly bushings this coming Spring. Going to swap the tranny fluid with Redline MT85 while its being done. Is it recommended/much more effort to have the Differential fluid done with some Redline 75W90 GL-5 Gear Oil as well?
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post #77 of 128 Old 12-01-2014
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Depends on the miles I guess. I changed my rear diff fluid this summer with about 60k on the car. The trans fluid has been changed three times in that time.

It is no more effort for the diff than it is the trans. Hose and a funnel through a grommet in the trunk.

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post #78 of 128 Old 12-01-2014
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Originally Posted by Red Raspberry View Post
Depends on the miles I guess. I changed my rear diff fluid this summer with about 60k on the car. The trans fluid has been changed three times in that time.

It is no more effort for the diff than it is the trans. Hose and a funnel through a grommet in the trunk.
Well I've got about 35K miles on there now, for the effort/cost involved I guess I might as well. Will be the first time both fluids are changed.
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post #79 of 128 Old 12-01-2014
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2 quarts is not enough FWIW.

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post #80 of 128 Old 12-01-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MZ777 View Post
Just got done with mine. 2 bottles went into the tranny and 1.5 bottles went in the diff. I also installed a ralco SS so I wonder what improvement will it be once I'm done with the exhaust...

Lots of people say that the tranny fluid starts to drip out by the time you finish with the second bottle, however, I haven't noticed that on mine... It kinda kept taking it, maybe the car wasn't leveled out all the way but it was on 4 jacks so I wonder if I should put and mix the remaining redline 75w90 in the tranny until it starts to come out... any thoughts?
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The transmission takes a bit more than 2 quarts.
So I've read haha
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