Sneak PEEK on whats NEW at UNIQ!! - Page 7 - Hyundai Genesis Forum
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post #121 of 172 Old 02-22-2014
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Originally Posted by Snoopy0812 View Post
My supplier finally got me the correct fans so we could start sorting out the last details for the second prototype and hopefully production model.

I would recommend closing the holes on the corners and in the middle to allow the shroud to work at maximum efficiency. These holes allow air to bypass the shroud when the fans are on decreasing the air sucked through the rad itself. Air will always take the easiest route........

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2013 Genesis Coupe 2.0t R-Spec, White Satin Pearl
-Modified OEM intake, SK1 intake w/K&N drop in filter
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-Front 19x8.5 et15, 245/35R19
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post #122 of 172 Old 02-22-2014 Thread Starter
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Actually you want Air flow movement to flow across the Radiator and by making pockets it will allow Air to flow through for Better cooling efficiency..

This is a PLUS when your car is in Movement with Pockets..

This is the same as running Aftermarket Fans and just bolting onto your Stock Radiator

Last edited by [email protected]; 02-22-2014 at 09:43 AM.
post #123 of 172 Old 02-22-2014
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If the shroud was further from the radiator you'd be right During, but this is less than half an inch from the radiator surface. Rob is right.
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post #124 of 172 Old 02-22-2014
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You forget that when the vehicle is moving there are huge opening on the shroud where the fans are located. As you are moving above 25MPH you have positive air pressure in front of the radiator, and air will be forced through the fins out the rear holes where the fans are located because it's harder to flow backwards and around the rad support or the car

When the fans are operating ALL the air in front of the radiator will be pulled across the fins because there is no openings for air to bypass the rad...........the air MUST come from in front of the rad.

When you put holes in a fan shroud you are basically creating a fancy fan mounting plate. The fans cover ~75% of the core which means the fans will pull air across ~75% of the rad. There is still ~25% of the rad not being used at idle, when the cooling needs to be at it`s best...............Thus why the OEM shroud is sealed.

One way around this is to put rubber flaps over the shroud corner openings, which open at free way speeds and increase air flow when the fans aren`t needed (usually overkill), but then close and seal at idle when the fans are on to create a sealed shroud and force all air drawn by the fans to come across the rad fins.



Just my 2 cents
Duro

2013 Genesis Coupe 2.0t R-Spec, White Satin Pearl
-Modified OEM intake, SK1 intake w/K&N drop in filter
-OEM Front Strut Brace
-Ultra Racing Rear Strut Brace
-Ultra Racing Room Bar
-6pc Chassis Underbrace kit
-22mm OEM Rear swaybar
-Front 19x8.5 et15, 245/35R19
-Rear 19x9.5 et20, 275/35R19
-Flyryde Headlights, 6000k HID

Last edited by Duro5341; 02-22-2014 at 02:46 PM.
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post #125 of 172 Old 02-22-2014
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maybe add rubber flaps? so at low air flow it will create a vacuum and increase the efficiency, and at high air flow, it will over power the flaps, and blow right thought?
although thats going to increase the price of the shoud
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post #126 of 172 Old 02-22-2014
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
This is the same as running Aftermarket Fans and just bolting onto your Stock Radiator
So why not just mount the fans to the radiator itself?, why do we need a fancy fan mount?

I am all for making functional radiator shrouds, they increase cooling efficiency of radiators especially when modifications have been performed and MORE energy needs to be dissipated.

But I don't like when fancy fan mounts being sold as shrouds and people think they are increasing the efficiency over mounting it directly to the rad itself.

If your looking for a clean way to MOUNT aftermarket fans or slim fans, this is a great thing.
But actually the OEM fan is actually quite efficient and quiet, and when coupled to a larger core radiator it can easily keep your engine cool.

The size/thickness of a radiators core is what controls the amount of heat it can dissipate and how fast it can do it.
Your can pull 100000 CFM's through a rad, but if it's core can't exchange it the heat fast enough you will still overheat.

I am not trying to nit pic I just want to clarify whats being made here, and what it's benefits actually are.

Duro

2013 Genesis Coupe 2.0t R-Spec, White Satin Pearl
-Modified OEM intake, SK1 intake w/K&N drop in filter
-OEM Front Strut Brace
-Ultra Racing Rear Strut Brace
-Ultra Racing Room Bar
-6pc Chassis Underbrace kit
-22mm OEM Rear swaybar
-Front 19x8.5 et15, 245/35R19
-Rear 19x9.5 et20, 275/35R19
-Flyryde Headlights, 6000k HID

Last edited by Duro5341; 02-22-2014 at 02:48 PM.
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post #127 of 172 Old 02-22-2014
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I have forgotten nothing Duro and frankly your assumptions are pissing me off. This isn't a released product now is it? We're not selling anything in this thread, we're simply letting people know what is being worked on at the moment between Uniq and myself. I have stated before, testing will happen before it hits the market, testing has yet to start. You honestly believe that what you're saying I haven't looked into before? That it isn't an avenue of possibility? It's not my prerogative or responsibility to disclose my entire R&D process with anyone other than the fabricating company.
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post #128 of 172 Old 02-22-2014
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Btw, mounting your fans directly flush mount with your radiator can damage your rad and it looks like sh*t.

If you want to keep using the OE fan, no one here is stopping you.
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post #129 of 172 Old 02-22-2014
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What cooling duty is the core rated for and how much more surface area does it have compared to the OEM?
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post #130 of 172 Old 02-22-2014
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post #131 of 172 Old 02-22-2014
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Yup. Thanks. Btu/hr preferably
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post #132 of 172 Old 02-22-2014
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I will have to call CFS to get half that info, you'll have to wait till Wednesday for the OE stuff, I'm not around my main comp till then.
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post #133 of 172 Old 02-24-2014
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All the people judging this and saying negative comments are clearly missing the point of what this shroud is doing. just keep doing what you do Snoopy there are a few of us out there that actually need this.

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post #134 of 172 Old 02-24-2014
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Can't wait to see the finished product! I likes me some cooling.

One standardized US gallon of displacement compressed using 6 pistons housed in a 60 degree all aluminum V shaped block to 10.4 atmospheres injected and ejected via 24 valves and 4 camshafts. Mix part 100% organically produced air w/ part refined 91 octane liquid hydrocarbons. Expose to electricity and pressure within the energy extrapolater to produce forward thrust via a fully synchronized helical gear set coupled to a minimal slippage differentiator and rubberized traction disks.
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post #135 of 172 Old 02-24-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nyangineer View Post
What cooling duty is the core rated for and how much more surface area does it have compared to the OEM?
Now this will vary from each rad provider (CSF, Koyo, Mishimoto, eBay), but this is what CSF provided me based on their testing and core;

Va (m/s) - OE - CSF (units in btu/hr)
4 - 185,369.15 - 201 986.88
10 - 273 695.26 - 294 901.26
15 - 325 184.68 - 356 910.02
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post #136 of 172 Old 02-25-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snoopy0812 View Post
Now this will vary from each rad provider (CSF, Koyo, Mishimoto, eBay), but this is what CSF provided me based on their testing and core;

Va (m/s) - OE - CSF (units in btu/hr)
4 - 185,369.15 - 201 986.88
10 - 273 695.26 - 294 901.26
15 - 325 184.68 - 356 910.02
Thanks a bunch for the info, seems there is a nice little increase in cooling capacity. Does this increase in cooling capacity come from more surface area or increased efficiency that comes with added pressure drop the water pump will have to pick up?
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post #137 of 172 Old 02-25-2014
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I'm assuming it's due to both because the while fin density appears less, it is a two row core (single pass like OE) so the surface area works out to probably more and CSF uses their B-tube design on this rad which is suppose to make it not only stronger but more efficient as well.
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post #138 of 172 Old 03-04-2014
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i am interested in this

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Subscribe to my YouTube and check out my channel on January 6th, video coverage, discussion and plans will all happen and be ready for you to waste time at work first thing in the morning (unless you live in some odd time zone).

Oh, and V6 guys, you might want to watch too.

The number 1 GC dedicated DIY channel
i am also willing to be a tester

Allways looking for an excuse to go driving! If you are up for it MSG me!

Now i want to see how fast I can go in this:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151285354263576.479057.339315588575&type= 3
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post #139 of 172 Old 04-21-2014
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v6 owner here, this is on my radar now. v6 is a damn oven. sub'd

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post #140 of 172 Old 04-21-2014
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We're just sorting out the electrical.
Ran into a slight hiccup though, the fans we've chosen might move too much air. If you're not moving and the fan kicks in, it'll actually lower the temp below ideal (190*f) and if you start the car and run the A/C right off the bat, the engine has a hard time getting to operating temp.

This might not be an issue for the track guys who aim to push the car as hard as possible and once the car is up to temp and the ECU takes proper control of the cycling, it works fine but otherwise, it moves a crap ton of air.
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