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True oil level measurement for 3.8

6K views 13 replies 10 participants last post by  Lethal1ty17 
#1 ·
I have a 2012 3.8 Track AT and every time I change the oil it seems I have to drain a little to get down to full mark. This time I changed the canister and drained the pan. The only thing I added besides 5 Quarts of oil is 12 ounces of Z Max oil additive. Since the book says 5.49 quarts of oil I should still have another 20 ounces of oil to add to get to the 5.5 quarts. Guess what my dipstick shows the oil OVER the full mark.

Is there residual oil stuck somewhere because I made sure the oil stopped dripping out of the drain hole. Or, is the dipstick somehow not set at the right setting to accurately show the true oil level?

I know I didn't add too much oil and additive yet I don't want to cause any problems for the engine if it really is too full. HELP!!
 
#2 ·
This may sound funny... but how about you put your additive in first and then add oil until it shows "full" on your dipstick instead of worrying about specific quantity levels?
 
#4 ·
What Geek said. Also, unless you filled the filter canister with new oil before putting it back on the car you have an empty spot in the system that will get filled when you start the car, call it around a 1/4 quart worth, so check the oil level after you run the car for a minute or two and add more as needed.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Haha, I was going to say the same thing. Best forum out there for oil nerds. :D Check out Blackstone labs too if you are a real nerd. I just picked up another 12 pack of their kits.

Stick with a good Group IV or V based oil and you will be good. No need for additives more than what are already in the oil.
 
#6 ·
It is surprising how much oil that filter will suck up. I always let it soak in a bit before I screw it back in. I don't like to see that oil light on for any time on start up. Agreed with the above; fill it.. run it then top off as needed not worrying about exactly how much it took this time. Displacing actual oil for additive stuff? Ehh... I prefer to run a good oil and whatever additives it runs instead of replacing some amount of oil with ... something else.
 
#8 ·
First, 5.5 quarts would be 5 quarts and 16 ounces. You added 5 quarts and 12 ounces, so you don't have another 20 ounces left.

Second, you can never drain all of the oil out of an engine. There will always be some left in the engine when you finish draining. I always stop adding oil 1 quart less than what the manual says, wait for the oil I've added to settle into the oil pan, then measure the oil. Then I add the last quart a little at a time, checking the level in between each little bit until I get to the full mark. Then, since I don't prefill the oil filter before I install it, I start the engine, let it run for about 10-15 seconds and shut it off, to let the oil filter fill. Then I wait a couple of minutes for the oil to settle and measure again. If it needs more, I add it.

Third, the oil additive package added to modern oils has been designed by the oil manufacturer's engineers for specific goals and they have done extensive testing to make sure that all of the additives are compatible and all work together toward those goals. Adding a general purpose additive can, possibly, disrupt that balance and actually have a negative effect. I used to use oil additives, but haven't for years. Now I just use a quality oil and change it as needed.
 
#9 ·
Good procedure, I do almost the same thing. Except before draining the oil, I left it warm up to about 120-150F first to help it drain quicker and easier. And after I fill it with the first 4.5 or so quarts, I start it up and let it warm up again and get the oil flowing throughout the engine. Then I wait 2 minutes for the oil to settle back to the pan and check the level and add as needed.
 
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#10 ·
If you think off the shelf oils, especially of the 5w20 variety aren't stout enough to handle your stock 3.8 (even if you drive it hard), you should find my posts where I have two back to back oil analyses run on my 100k+ 3.8 with off the shelf 5w20 oil for somewhat extended intervals and the numbers came back great. Even though it sees near the redline every time it is warm and has a tune. I would post it but at the moment I only have my iPhone and won't be near a computer again for several days.

Don't use oil additives. The amount of research and development that goes into oil these days is astonishing. They don't need any special extra ingredient.
 
#11 ·
Personally I'm using Mobil 1 0W-40 Euro Spec (a PAO Group 4/5 base blend) just because it fairly cheap, $22 per 5 quarts per oil change, and made specifically for newer engines such as the GDI ones. The $5-10 I would save by going with a conventional 5W-30 just doesn't matter to me. Under $30 to do my own oil change with an OEM filter isn't bad.

But I will be doing oil checks as well with Blackstone at regular intervals.
 
#13 ·
Same here. I find my engine idles smoother with the Euro Spec oil and qualitatively runs better to me. I went from Pennzoil Ultimate and my 2.0T likes this oil much better. I also use OEM filters only.
 
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