The Captain Obvious Guide to Performance - Hyundai Genesis Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 02-26-2015 Thread Starter
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Lightbulb The Captain Obvious Guide to Performance

This is a tongue-in-cheek, sarcastic yet truthful, look at basic performance "mods" for those who are staying stock-ish, or for those who are too cool for school

Fresh Oil & Filter (BHP: Do You Have to Ask?)

Before you reach for that tune, exhaust or turbo kit, first ensure your engine is actually as daisy-fresh as it can be. This means you must be in the practice of changing the oil at the recommended intervals and with the recommended oils. If your engine is already gunky, if you see smoke, then you are losing power from that alone. Get your engine treated and then resume normal intervals. Otherwise, don't be surprised when your mod blows your engine and the dealer says you're SOL.

Fresh Tires (WHP: Up To 100%+)

Some people might be surprised at how tires can directly affect a car's performance. Worn tires can be deceiving as they gradually become useless. If you just got a used car with worn tires, you cannot know anything about that car's handling or acceleration until you get fresh tires. Tires should be new enough to operate within their normal parameters of adhesion and water dispersal, otherwise, they're doing you no favors. Easy burnouts and four-wheel drifts are fun, but that's not how the car is supposed to handle.

Top-Tier Gas (BHP: Easily 10+, from Low-Tier to Top-Tier)

You can seek performance with mods such as a tune or exhaust, but in some cases, that much or more power may already be hidden in your stock engine, masked by cheap gas. This can cause cloggy filters, dirty injectors, fouled plugs, and dirty valves, not associated with hi-performance. Some people will claim that "all gas is the same", but while all gas comes from the same pipeline sources, the advanced chemistry and additives from the best brands do not. So, if your stock engine is sputtering or sluggish, that's not Hyundai's fault, but yours. The simplest solution is to stop going to Skippy's Mini-Mart for your cheap gas. If you're proud of your car, gladly spend a few extra pennies on the best possible gas brand in your area, and even then only from the cleanest stations (which takes trial and error). Give it some time, say a few hundred miles or more at varying RPMs, once you've found a good station. The power you will regain might be all you need.

Remove the Carbon Filter (Some US 3.8s)(BHP: Easily 15+, especially with gas-mod)
See: https://www.gencoupe.com/engine-drive...r-removal.html

For some models, EPA regulations mean that there is a secondary air filter in your airbox, commonly called the "carbon filter". It is post-paper filter preventing fumes from coming back out of the airbox in the rare event of a backfire or sputter. Since you've done the above "mods", your engine will not be sputtering or backfiring, thus you do not need this extra filter, and removing it will not likely affect your warranty. It will affect your ECU tune, though, because the paper filter is a high-flow model very similar to a K&N in terms of flow rates (it has to be to counteract having the carbon filter in there), so removing that carbon filter gives you the equivalent mod of a non-carbon-filtered car going from the normal-flow paper to a K&N. Thus, the claims made about gains from a K&N are what you can expect from removing this carbon filter and using the stock hi-flow filter by itself. Just as with gasoline, the ECU will retune your engine after removing this filter, so give it a bit of time to adjust and settle.

K&N Filter (Non-Carbon-Filter Models)(BHP: Easily 15+, esp. with gas-mod)

If you do not have the "carbon filter", a simple mod is to replace your paper filter with a K&N hi-flow. This will also not likely affect your warranty. Just as with gasoline, the ECU will retune your engine after changing to a K&N, so give it a bit of time to adjust and settle.

Turn Off Traction & Stability Controls (WHP: Depends)

At low speeds it might not seem to make a difference, but turning off the TCS/ESC system (10-12s) or TCS & ESC systems (13s+) "frees up" the power that will be lost when it kicks in (often when you least expect it). How much power is that? It depends on the Coupe's year and incident circumstances, but most of you reading this probably know how your car reacts to bumps, small slides, burnouts and 2nd gear pops when these systems engage. Without the systems monitoring wheel spin/yaw, and thus not applying damping, yaw controls, or engine cuts, you have the full engine power available at all times. Some people even believe there are other tuning parameters that are affected positively by turning TCS/ESC off (which may be apocryphal), but regardless, your car will certainly be faster and more powerful without these nannies - that is, in most controlled situations! In other driving situations, such as in foul weather, though, these systems could save your life!

The Obvious Conclusion

If you've done all these obvious and easy "mods", your engine will be running in tip-top form. In some cases, you may even find that you need no aftermarket mods! If so, following these "Captain Obvious" tips will mean your engine is running strong and wearing correctly, and you will also have no warranty issues if something were to come up with your dealer. Only then can you accurately judge whether you need further mods, or how those mods truly affect your car's performance.
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Carbon Filter Removed, Shell V-Power, ODBLink LX, 325+HP, 4.6 Sec 0-60, 12.4 Sec/109 MPH 1/4

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post #2 of 11 Old 02-26-2015
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NICELY DONE!!!

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post #3 of 11 Old 03-12-2015 Thread Starter
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Driver Skill and Expectations (WHP: 0-100%)

Of course, the most obvious "mod" by a country mile is the driver in terms of raw talent/nerve, developed skills, and performance expectations. Using a simple analogy, if you're a musician and hit a "wrong" note then look at the instrument in disbelief, as a driver you may not ever be satisfied with any particular car, not even a million-dollar hypercar, and so you may tend to blame the car or even hate on the car, when it's you who played the note. If, however, you use that odd note to change the riff, or think about how you play the instrument, as a driver you might be in the right frame of mind to race competitively.

In this light, nearly all the negative comments about the Coupe's handling seem to be coming from a combination of a Base model being pushed too hard, a modded car probably set up wrong for the event, tires past their useful life, or a driver who somehow expects their car to drive them around the course. If you've ever watched as someone else drove your own car faster and smoother than you did around a given course, you'll hopefully figure out very quickly that your car is not your problem. In this way, the Genesis Coupe really needs only one mod - a skilled and fearless driver who expects their driving to be the focus of the event, not a particular sway bar, tune, slam, CAI, or exhaust vs another
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Carbon Filter Removed, Shell V-Power, ODBLink LX, 325+HP, 4.6 Sec 0-60, 12.4 Sec/109 MPH 1/4
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post #4 of 11 Old 08-03-2015
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Please include more realistic numbers. You will not net 15bhp from removing the carbon filter in the 2010-12 3.8 air box or by swapping in a K&N panel filter in said engine, not even combined. If tunes with full bolt-ons' barely net that, those won't alone.
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post #5 of 11 Old 08-03-2015
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Nice write up but you forgot to add sticker mods. At least 5whp per sticker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Genesex42 View Post
Nice write up but you forgot to add sticker mods. At least 5whp per sticker
I giggled at this one.....
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post #7 of 11 Old 08-11-2015
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I realize this was a tongue-in-cheek post but the bits about top-tier fuel is important. Had a lot of guys on the Cruze forums getting 22psi tunes but still running the cheapest Costco 87 octane fuel they could find. Then they cried about their performance, dyno numbers and tunes being crappy. If nothing else, get the cheapest fuel form a quality station, but honestly, the additional cost of running 91+ of quality fuel is not that bad as you think*. For me it's an extra $3 per tank (15gal).

While using better fuel/octane won't increase power, it will help prevent power loss and help the car run as it was intended.

*In southern California the price difference between regular 87 and premium 91 is about $0.20. I've been told that in some areas of the country the price difference can be over $1.00 in which case you should move to a better area.
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I live in one of those areas... think at last glance it was $.60. And, this is where the gasoline is made! What is wrong with this picture?

TJ
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post #9 of 11 Old 08-13-2015
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good info!
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post #10 of 11 Old 08-17-2015
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I use Shell V-Power 93 95% of the time. Get a Fuel Rewards card and save $.03/gal automatically. =)

Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk
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post #11 of 11 Old 04-14-2016
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I stumbled across some photos on the Tail of the Dragon FB page of the OP. It's nice to finally put a name to an avatar, Mark! Do you still own your GC? I saw a couple of your Autocross results at the South Carolina SCCA website from earlier in 2015...are you still racing?

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