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Oil Change Intervals - Hilarious

71K views 144 replies 59 participants last post by  adamk126 
#1 ·
OK so at the risk of being flamed for admitting this, I get my oil changed at the dealership that I bought my 3.8 GC from. I went the first 10,000 miles using just regular, non-synth oil every and had it changed every 3000 miles. After that, I switched to Mobil 1 5W-30 full synth and extended my interval to 5000 miles. The last time I went to get my oil changed, I got this big f'ing lecture from the service MANAGER telling me that Hyundai is going to void my warranty because I went over the (completely ridiculous) interval in the owner's manual which is stated at 3,750 miles. Then he went on to tell me some BS about "cars like Corvettes use a dry pump, hence the 3750 mile requirement" which I quickly dismissed because I DON'T DRIVE A F'ING CORVETTE.

First of all, wtf is Hyundai thinking with an interval of 3,750? I have never heard of this as a regular oil change interval before but it is indeed in the manual. Secondly, why would it be the same across the board regardless of synth and non-synth?

So basically dude told me that if my engine ever has problems I'm completely f'd because I ran my interval to 5,000 miles using full synthetic oil. Nice. I have heard of Hyundai's "amazing" warranty being a crock of sh*t, but this is just utterly ridiculous.

Please, anyone who feels compelled to just highjack this thread to tell me how dumb I am for not changing my own oil, please refrain. That's not the point here really. The point is how can these MFers actually make such a ludicrous claim? I'm sure dude was just trying to BS me so I get it changed more often and they make more money, but to threaten my warranty just completely boggles my mind.

Anyone else have a similar experience with their stealership? Yes I used the search button and found other oil change interval threads, but none that deal with this "issue" specifically.

Thanks!
 
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#7 ·
3,750 for conventional oil & up to 7,500 for fully synthetic. Recommend a little sooner for turbos (3k & 6k respectively). These intervals are in your owners manual under severe driving conditions which 95% of people fall under.
 
#8 ·
I change mine at the dealer, no garage at home. I bring my own oil too, Mobile 1 5w30 and get it changed every 6,000km which is roughly 3,800 miles. Only because I drive the piss out of my car and in return I baby the crap out of it when it comes to maintenance.

The person you were dealing with at the dealership is a douche.
 
#9 ·
I would go to superior about him. Thats just uncalled for and shows his ignorance. You should definitely take your business else where.

On a side note, so does everyone put 5w-30 in? Thats what all of my previous cars used but I thought 5w-20? was supposed to go in the gen.
 
#11 ·
I would stick with the 5w-20 for this time of year. The only time I'd go with the 30 is during the hotter summer months for a little more heat protection. Its helpful particularly in the turbo. I used 10w-40 in my STI during the summer because that thing produced a lot of heat, I don't know if its the same with the GC, but I would imagine that's the main reason people switch to 5w-30.
 
#10 ·
Lol, your dealership is dumb for even trying to pull something like that. Just go to a different dealer. 5k is what I plan to get mine changed at with synthetic because my driving habits are severe according to my manual, but the manual clearly states that the oil change interval for the 3.8 is 7500 under normal conditions. In your case with the turbo, 6k is the recommended interval for synthetic changes. That is straight out of their manual, so go tell your dealer to f*** themselves and go somewhere else. That's what I would do.
I refuse to go to my local dealer for pretty much anything other than picking up oil filters though. The only other time they'll see me is if my car needs serious warranty work.
 
#12 ·
Severe service is 3000 miles, normal is 4800 miles. TSB 09-EM-003

Can someone post the TSB on this. I believe it is different than the owner's manual, especially for the 2.0t.
 
#13 ·
Page 1 of 2

Technical Service Bulletin
Subject ENGINE OIL SPECIFICATION AND SERVICE INTERVAL
FOR TURBOCHARGED ENGINES

Group ENGINE MECHANICAL

Number 09-EM-003
Date MAY, 2009

Model GENESIS COUPE (BK)

CIRCULATE TO: [ ] GENERAL MANAGER
[X] SERVICE ADVISOR [X] SERVICE MANAGER [X] WARRANTY MGR [ ] SALES MANAGER [X] PARTS MANAGER [X] TECHNICIAN

DESCRIPTION:
This bulletin provides the unique engine oil and filter service requirements of the Genesis Coupe 2.0L turbocharged-intercooled (TCI) engine.
If necessary, refer to the published Shop Manual and Owner’s Manual for additional information.
APPLICABLE VEHICLES:
• 2010 Genesis Coupe (BK) equipped with 2.0L TCI engine

SERVICE INFORMATION:
Normal Maintenance Schedule
Whenever applicable, dealer service personnel and service menus should adhere to the recommended maintenance schedule outlined in the applicable Owner’s Manual.

IMPORTANT: *As part of every new vehicle sales delivery process, the
appropriate Sales/Service Departments of the dealership should
review this information with the new vehicle owner.

Maintenance Under Severe Usage Conditions
If the vehicle is operated under severe driving conditions, follow the maintenance schedule under severe usage conditions as outlined in the applicable Owner’s Manual.

ENGINE OIL AND FILTER SERVICE - NORMAL MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
2.0L TCI *Replace initial 3,000 miles or 6 months, and every 4,800 miles or 6 months thereafter

3.8L V6 Replace every 7,500 miles or 12 months

ENGINE OIL AND FILTER SERVICE - SEVERE MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE

2.0L TCI Replace every 3,000 miles or 3 months

3.8L V6 Replace every 3,750 miles or 6 months

Page 2 of 2

Engine Oil API Classification and SAE Viscosity Grades
Refer to the charts below for the recommended API classification and the correct SAE viscosity grade engine oil to be used.
NOTE: This information is also published in the applicable Owner’s Manual and Shop Manual. Be sure to check the most current version for latest information.

*1 For better fuel economy, it is recommended to use SAE viscosity grade 5W-20 or 5W-30 engine oil that meets or exceeds the recommended engine oil classification. However, if that engine oil is not available, select an alternate engine oil using the viscosity chart.



RECOMMENDED ENGINE OIL CLASSIFICATION
2.0L TCI API Service SM or above, ILSAC GF-3 or above
3.8L V6 API Service SL or above, ILSAC GF-3 or above
 
#14 ·
@Red Raspberry
Interesting.. is this assuming synthetic oil is used?
 
#18 ·
That's what I thought, so if the OP used synthetic he should have a completely different service interval then what is shown. It seems like Hyundai is trying to be as confusing with their service requirements as possible. I would think that synthetic is optional for the 2.0 at least, so they should have some guidelines for both oils. Whatever.
I'm definitely sticking with synthetic, and I'm changing every 5k miles.
 
#17 ·
They added it because it's in the owner's manual (I have a May 09 build date so it's been in there since the beginning).

Otherwise dumbass Technician's and Service Manager's who don't actually read the service manuals for each individual car won't know and argue with customers. But then again, those same dumbasses probably don't read TSB's either.
 
#113 ·
I never reach that though, I get the every 3 months instead.
Every three months always comes before every 3000 miles. I bought my GC in February and changed the oil at three months with 2050 miles. I will change it again in August and only have 3800 miles right now.
 
#22 ·
for the people saying use 5w-30 in summer and 5w-20 in winter that makes no sense because they both are the same weight in the winter...

the 5w is the winter weight

the number after the dash is the summer weight

the polymers in the oil change weight depending on temperature its reversed... the polymers make it heavier in the summer and lighter weight in the winter...

just an FYI... not sure if that was already previously stated but i was reading so many posts where ppl were sayin 5-30 or 5-20 just figured i would clear things up about oil weights...

if you use 5w30 it will be 5 weight in the winter at cold start but when it heats up it will go back to the heavier weight which is after the dash...

hell i shouldn't even say summer and winter weight i should say cold and hot weight lol
 
#23 · (Edited)
for the people saying use 5w-30 in summer and 5w-20 in winter that makes no sense because they both are the same weight in the winter...

the 5w is the winter weight

the number after the dash is the summer weight

the polymers in the oil change weight depending on temperature its reversed... the polymers make it heavier in the summer and lighter weight in the winter...

just an FYI... not sure if that was already previously stated but i was reading so many posts where ppl were sayin 5-30 or 5-20 just figured i would clear things up about oil weights...

if you use 5w30 it will be 5 weight in the winter at cold start but when it heats up it will go back to the heavier weight which is after the dash...

hell i shouldn't even say summer and winter weight i should say cold and hot weight lol




This guy knows more than Bob is the Oil Guy. He is a genius.
 
#25 ·
Snoopy, is this a very recent notice? At my dealership they are always trying to get me in to change my 2.0T synthetic oil after 3 months. But I only change it after 6 months because my car doesn't put on alot of kms, and its not in the severe use category, I drive it 90% on the highway. I haven't yet changed the tires either, and I've had the car since June 2009.
 
#26 ·
Hyundai Canada is a bit weird just fyi, different regions get bulletins and TSB's earlier or later than others for some reason. I had to wait almost 3 months once for something to get replaced under warranty because it wasn't released yet for my region.

I don't know exactly when it was put down, got my oil changed on Thursday and they said it's now 6 months/6000km's where it used to be 3 months/5000km.
Some dealerships are less honest than others, they might just want the service.
 
#28 ·
My dealer works with me on the transmission fix, they've done a lot for me and in some ways for the community. They're a new dealership with a small customer base so I go to them to change my oil even though I can do it myself. Also... in the winter time, it's a lot easier for them to do it and charge me $20 for time and materials (minus oil) than for me to f*ck around with it at -40.
 
#29 ·
Just to clarify on the oil weights.

The first number (i.e. 0 or 5 usually) is the cold engine oil weight. When the engine is cold this is the weight of the oil.

The second number (i.e. 20W or 30W usually) is the warm engine oil weight. Once the engine is up to temp is will behave like a straight oil of this weight.

Ideally we would all have a 0 - 'whatever' in for cold start ups as it reduces wear w/ the great flow characteristics of the 0 weight. But there are a couple of catches.

First, if your oil is 85 F when it's cold like a Texas summer the difference between a 0 and a 5 is inconsequential for start up flow.

Second, the wider the spread is between the 2 numbers the more viscocity modifiers they had to use to make that happen, and it will (everything else being equal) behave a little less consistent at high temperatures. A 0-20W (of the same brand and type) will measure a lower overall viscocity than a 5-20W after some useage and will break down quicker.

The only real reason to ever run a thicker oil, like a 10-30W would be because you are seeing dropping oil pressues under hard use. This would only happen after repeated and extended full throttle runs, like at a road race track day. This should never be an issue for a typical use DD car, even one sitting in 105 degree rush hour traffic all day.

If cost be damned, (in a 3.8) I'd run a 0-20W year round and change fairly often. And for track days during a Texas summer I'd switch to a 15-40W (or similiar) just for the track day, then I'd drain it and go right back to the 0-20W.

For those of us w/ more moderate budgets in the South I'd run a 5-20W year around and just change it immediatedly after an average track day.

If I lived back in Denver and still parked vehicles outside I'd run the 0-20W at least for the winter months cause January is a real bitch.

And always synthetics.
 
#33 ·
I couldn´t have said this better myself. I run 0w20 full synthetic year round too.

And yes, the intervals are too short and the stealerships take advantage of it. I paid 36 dollars for an oilchange (brought my own oil) last I was in and got a sticker saying come back in 3 months or 3000 miles. Sure...
 
#30 ·
I used 0w-40 in my sti year round. It seemed to do the job pretty well. So far the dealer recommended 5w-20 has worked fine for my GC.. thinking about switching to 5w-30 for the summer. I do drive it pretty hard, so i figured I could use the extra protection.
 
#31 ·
The service rating of passenger car and commercial automotive motor oils is classified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). The program certifies that an oil meets certain Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) quality and performance standards. The service rating is shown in the API "Service Symbol Donut" on the product label.

The labels include two important pieces of information to determine if an engine oil is appropriate for use in your vehicle. The first piece of information speaks to viscosity grade. The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) defines a numerical system for grading motor oils according to viscosity. The suffixes (0, 5, 10, 15 and 25) followed by the letter W designate the engine oil's "winter" grade.

Look to your owner's manual. It specifies the viscosity grade required for your car's engine. Today, the most common grades are 5W-30 and 10W-30.

Watch for the "W"

Whereas the labeling on the bottle of engine oil may suggest the product is a 10W-30, note, if there is no "W" between the 10 and the 30 it may not be a 10W30. As an example, a SAE 10-30 is not the same as an SAE 10W30.

The next 'code" to look for is the API Service Classification. Although it might appear complicated to understand at the start, it is really a simple system to get your arms around. Think of it this way, when cars were first built, the oil they required needed an API SA Service Classification. From there, it moved to SB, SC, SD, and so on (skipping only SI and SK). The current API Service Classification is SN.
 
#32 ·
Turbocharger Protection
Use of the TEOST 33C deposit bench test is being considered in GF-5 to evaluate Turbocharger Protection.

During this test, problems were observed with oxidative degradation/thermal coking of engine oil in the turbocharger bearing area during hot shut-down. It is necessary to protect the bearing from deposits because deposit build-up in the turbocharger bearing area can lead to loss of engine performance and possibly engine failure.

Turbocharger Protection is important, but there are tradeoffs when it comes to Fuel Economy. The detergent and dispersant components that go the metal surfaces to keep the engine's parts clean and prevent deposit build-up in the turbocharger, compete against the friction modifier components that go to the metal surfaces to reduce friction and improve fuel economy.
 
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