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post #41 of 206 Old 01-30-2011

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im thinking about making one of these build threads instead of referring people to look at my photobucket all the time lol

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post #42 of 206 Old 01-30-2011
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^ DO IT!!!
lol
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post #43 of 206 Old 01-30-2011
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holy cow you gotta lots o' part! you was like .."i'll take one of everything please!" haha but good luck with everything it looks to be an awesome car.

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post #44 of 206 Old 02-05-2011 Thread Starter
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Planning to install CP-e motor mounts Sunday



motor mount kit weighed in at 8.6 lbs


also snapped a pic of the TVT big bore throttle body vs the OEM


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post #45 of 206 Old 02-06-2011
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cool, could you take some pics of the engine/tranny lifting/jacking point you chose?
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post #46 of 206 Old 02-07-2011 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by whatnot View Post
cool, could you take some pics of the engine/tranny lifting/jacking point you chose?
Already have, got plenty of pics for the motor mount DIY I will be posting very soon.

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post #47 of 206 Old 02-07-2011 Thread Starter
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Some parts weights from the AMS thread

Wanted to transfer these weights from the AMS thread for easy access.

Overall weight 3352 lbs

Left 1689 lbs 50.4%
Rear 1537 lbs 45.8%
Cross 1688 lbs 50.4% (changes to 50.1% when I am in the drivers seat)

FL 908 lbs FR 908 lbs
RL 781 lbs RR 756 lbs

Track edition 19" wheels and tires with 100% tread

Front 55.0 lbs
Rear 57.4 lbs

Front crash beam 18.4 lbs

Jack 4.2 lbs

Lug wrench and jack handle 1.4 lbs

Tow hook 1.2 lbs

Spare tire (18") 31.5 lbs

Battery 38 lbs
Odyssey battery 13-14lbs

Battery hold down .2 lbs

Battery tray 1.6 lbs

Intake silencer .6 lbs

Mid pipe 6.4 lbs

Secondary catalytic converter 6 lbs

Cat back 44.4 (pipe with resonator 11.8 lbs muffler section 32.6 lbs)

Total exhaust system from down pipe back 56.8 lbs


Front crash beam 18.4 lbs


OEM motor mounts & hardware = 7.6 lbs
CP-e motor mounts & headware = 8.8 lbs
So the CP-e motor mts will be 1.2 lbs more than OEMs


I removed my rear interior to see what I could do without, yet not look too bad for DD use & shows.

Rear seat bottom = 11.2 lbs
Rear seat back = 17.8 lbs
Back deck cover = 4.0 lbs
Rear seat buckles = .6 lbs ea
Rear shoulder harness = 2.0 lbs ea
Brackets & hardware = 4.5 lbs

So, I've decided since no one sits in the back of my car & I have no children nor will be having any, the rear seat back, seat belt assemblies & all hardware incorporated into the rear seat back & seat belt assemblies can be removed saving almost 30lbs.

The deck cover is only 4 lbs & when looking through the back glass will give a much cleaner look, although I did take out the tether brackets from underneath the deck cover.

The seat bottom doesn't weigh nearly as much as the seat back & gives the rest of the back cabin a clean look, plus in dire situations does allow a place for someone to sit. So I will be leaving it in except on race days when I will remove it to allow more storage space for the trip & reduce weight on the track.

However, the seat back is not going to stay & with it removed, you have a large oval pass trough hole to the trunk with just about a foot wide & 2 foot long panels that show the red OEM paint in each side where the deck comes down to & the seat bottom goes up to. These areas on each sice will receive black carpet to bring it togeter.


Some other parts I weighed while out:

OEM battery tray = 1.8 lbs
at that weight, I see no need to spend $175 on a Buschur tray & instead will just be installing a mini-battery in the OEM tray.


OEM airbox assembly with tubing to turbo & filter = 5.8 lbs
CP-e replacement air box with tubing & filter = 8.8 lbs
So the CP-e unit is going to add 3 lbs
but I need it since I plan on running brake ducting to my front brakes & the AEM offering would be in the way.


Got my P&P parts from MAP:
2.0t intake manifold = 7.2 lbs
2.0t turbo assembly = 12.6 lbs
2.0t exhaust mainfold = 11.4 lbs
also;
MAP SS heat shield = 1.8 lbs


2.0t OEM radiator = 5.8 lbs
Mishimito 2.0t radiator = 10.8 lbs
So the Mishimito radiator will add 5 lbs

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Last edited by Tufast; 02-25-2011 at 01:27 PM. Reason: updated
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post #48 of 206 Old 02-07-2011
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^^+10 thats what i like too see...all the weights of main parts that can be changed, thank you for that.

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Haltech,Sheppey Manifold, GTX3076, ID 2000CC/ E85, Tial EWG, Synapse BOV, BR twin pump DW300 fuel pump, Aeromotive FPR, Stage 4 clutch, DSS Aluminum driveshaft/ axles, Custom diff mounts, all tranny/engine mounts, Garrett FMIC, Grimmspeed EBCM, BC valves/springs, Undercover Intake Manifold, UR pulleys, ATQ slim fan setup, BC coilovers, AG wheels.
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post #49 of 206 Old 02-07-2011
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Getting a nice stock pile of parts there. Those CP-E mounts will certaily be on my list after a few people run them for a while and test em out.




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post #50 of 206 Old 02-08-2011 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elementrider87 View Post
^^+10 thats what i like too see...all the weights of main parts that can be changed, thank you for that.
Thanks, updated that post with motor mt weights.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CrookedH View Post
Getting a nice stock pile of parts there. Those CP-E mounts will certaily be on my list after a few people run them for a while and test em out.
Finished installing the CP-e motor mounts last night. DIY to follow soon.

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post #51 of 206 Old 04-14-2011
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What aftermarket Oil Cooler did you find. I thought this would be a nice to have with i just chip it or get a BR PA Stg3 down the road.

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post #52 of 206 Old 04-15-2011 Thread Starter
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What aftermarket Oil Cooler did you find. I thought this would be a nice to have with i just chip it or get a BR PA Stg3 down the road.
Haven't picked up oil cooler yet, so still have to research best options.

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post #53 of 206 Old 04-16-2011
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I was looking at better motor mounts, Ill have to check back in to see how those work out.

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post #54 of 206 Old 04-16-2011
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subscribed. one of my favorite builds!!!
keep it up

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post #55 of 206 Old 04-16-2011

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Did you get around to installing your ark exhaust yet? I wanna see what it looks like with the bumper cut

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post #56 of 206 Old 04-18-2011 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rspec2_0T View Post
I was looking at better motor mounts, Ill have to check back in to see how those work out.
Heads up, even the 50 durometer mounts are MUCH stiffer than the OEM ones & you can expect a good bit of rattles. If performance is more important than additional rattles or you have enough power that it requires better mounts, then go for it. BUT if you are one that is annoyed by rattles or other noises, you may want to hold off on this mod.

Quote:
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subscribed. one of my favorite builds!!!
keep it up
Thanks man, I can see the finished product in my head & it is SICK! But I'm not rich like a few may think & I'm doing most of it myself, so just have to traverse a few more years of work to get there.

Quote:
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Did you get around to installing your ark exhaust yet? I wanna see what it looks like with the bumper cut
Dude, I wish! I've been driving the vehicle for the past week after taking care of the oil leak from the missing turbo oil return line gasket with no issues & she's pulling pretty strong for no other mods except P&P work.

Then this weekend I figured I would let her stretch her legs & drove up to Pine Mt for my brother's wedding. The car did fine on the way there, but on the way back no boost but it didn't set a CEL either. So when I got home I was too tired to deal with it. The next morning I ran the car up to get some gas & make sure that it wasn't due to being so low on fuel. After fueling, still no boost & when I get home my fiance' shows me a little green spot the size of a quarter on the ground. I inspected the car from above & below with no luck on finding where the anti-freeze came from, but it is on the exhaust side & the only thing over there that I messed with that has coolant running to it is the turbo. I made sure that both turbo coolant lines had the copper washer installed on each side & I KNOW everything was torqued down over there properly. So now I'm scratching my head once again. I checked over everything & all seems to be secure, so I guess I might as well tear that side down again. I definately have gotten a better at R&R the IM & EM.

Anywho, I had to cancel my appointment at Forged for dyno pulls...once again. So I just told them that I will contact them when I'm certain the car is ready. Really starting to become frustrating considering all the labor I've put into R&R the manifolds 3 times each which could of easily been used to install the rest of my bolt-ons....sigh But the one good thing is I'm no longer young & impatient as I used to be, thus I'm taking it with stride. Hopefully I can give everyone some good news in the near future & more importantly some RESULTS!

Thanx,
Jerry

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post #57 of 206 Old 04-19-2011
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Balls!! Hope you get that sorted out asap
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post #58 of 206 Old 04-20-2011
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Sorry to hear man. Though don't automatically think the coolant is an issue or has anything to do with your problem. I would wipe it clean spray some brake cleaning around the area and dry it good. THEN if you see a leak, it would be more of an issue.

But afer R&R'n stuff, some things you just miss or seap a bit from around the seal untill it can seal and isn't an issue after that first bit that gets out. Puddles aren't always bad, they just mean keep an eye on it more frequently. A consistant puddle can be bad though.

Even if a CEL wans't lit, you could have a pendig code that could help you out, so try to scan it anyway.

As far as losing boost, that sucks. First try to find out where/why you are losing boost before you can fix it. Is it the WG, something mechanical? Or is it cold side and possible engine controlled. You could try hooking up bov to IM to eliminate ECU control. Or it could even be cold side mechanical and a bov diaphragm tear or busted spring.

Good luck man.
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post #59 of 206 Old 04-24-2011 Thread Starter
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Update:

Thanks whatnot,

Checked connections to vaccum lines etc & rechecked torque on several different bolts, esp the turbo cooling lines with everything looking fine including all the brass washers in place on those coolant lines.

Cleaned coolant spot on floor & subframe where it dripped from. I will continue to watch for future coolant residue. Thanks for putting my mind at ease regarding the coolant & no boost issues having relevance to one another.

Had already tried to pull codes with none stored. I also had checked the WG operation making sure it was free & had about the same amount of tension as I recall from before the issue arose.

I decided to pull off the OEM RSV (BOV) after reading your post whatnot & found that the diaphragm was in good shape, but collapwed down inside the RSV. I didn't disconnect the battery or remove the vaccuum line, so I'm guessing that the EBCS has vaccuum on the RSV, but is it supposed to when the car is cut off? After a few minutes of it being removed from the turbo, it released back out to its normal shape. I put it back together & took it for another test drive with still no boost. I'm going to reseach boost theads to see if anyone has had this issue as I can't remember all the details of all the boost issues from all the no boost theads. Any expert insight is welcomed as this is my first turbo car & still learning.

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post #60 of 206 Old 04-24-2011
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Hey tufast,

Hopefully this hasn't been asked elsewhere in this thread but what interceptor gauge did you buy? I was searching the forum but unfortunately didn't come with anything other then this thread.

Thank you
David.

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