Possible water in engine. - Hyundai Genesis Forum
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post #1 of 26 Old 09-29-2014 Thread Starter
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Possible water in engine.

Hey everyone, I'm writing this from my phone so excuse my poor spelling. But anyways, I'm hard-core in need of your car expertise right now. So yesterday, it was storming hard here in Florida, and I drove through this massive puddle. It was unavoidable and everyone was going really slow. My car shut off and I had to push it off to the side where it sounded like the starter was trying, but couldn't get it going. I waited about 10 mins and it starts turning on but struggling hard to idle and shuts back down after a min or two of struggling to idle. I wait another few minutes, try again, and it seems to be able to idle fine after a few failed attempt at starting but when you give it gas it revs up to about 3k and shuts back off. This is were I'm at now. I ended up getting my cat towed back home and there was a good bit of white smoke from my exhaust. But have since not seen as much. Also, when I Rev there is a heavy smell of gas. With this being said, what do you think the issue is or where should I go from here. As always, thanks a bunch for taking time our of your day to help a guy out.
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post #2 of 26 Old 09-29-2014
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What motor?

If you didn't hydrolock it (which you say it runs to 3k) then you're very lucky.

Is the CEL on at all? I personally would first start by replacing the spark plugs, air filter and changing the oil.

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post #3 of 26 Old 09-29-2014
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I would take it to the dealership.. You should be under warranty??

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post #4 of 26 Old 09-29-2014 Thread Starter
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I'm in a 2012 2.0 with a stage 3 btrcc ecu. No cel at all during the whole thing. I planned on changing my oil and spark plugs when I got back home today.

Last edited by erikd; 09-29-2014 at 12:38 PM.
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I would assume warranty won't cover anything. I have a am cold air intake so I'm sure that was the culprit.
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post #6 of 26 Old 09-29-2014
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This is generally what happens if the engine gets hydrolocked:



Have the engine compression tested. That will tell you if you have any damage.

If you get through this undamaged... next time your motor quits in a pool of water, pull the plugs and disconnect the intake line at the throttle body before trying to turn the engine to allow any water in the cylinder to blow out. Of course, this is assuming that you didn't crack the block/head/rods/crank/etc already.

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Which mods do you have other than tune and CAI? If that's it, swap it back to stock and take it to the dealer...
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Went through this exact scenario with my 3.8 2 years ago in florida as well , I hydrolocked my motor and threw a rod like the picture above. CAI are just not worth the risk . For me , Insurance covered my motor because there were about 100 other cars of all different makes and models that got damaged during this flood due to poor drainage in the city . I Defiantly got lucky.


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Originally Posted by nschultz View Post
Which mods do you have other than tune and CAI? If that's it, swap it back to stock and take it to the dealer...
He said he has BTRcc stage 3, I would assume he has more than just CAI.


I agree CAI is just not worth it, after driving through some big puddles during some down poors recently, I am looking at a SRI now. And yes you got very lucky lol.

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post #10 of 26 Old 09-29-2014
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Main reason why I will always keep stock air box on my car in Miami.
1994 a truck passed me and sent a tidal wave over my car, I dragged it the quarter mile to my shop and pulled all plugs and cranked it, watched water shooting out the plug holes like rockets. First thing to do after a water stall is not even try to crank the engine until all plugs are pulled first. Doesn't mean you won't have some damage already, but odds are in your favor if you alleviate the pressure first.

This tid-bit of info will not help you much at this point but hopefully others will learn from this incident.

In your case a bent rod is almost a guarantee, if you have unburnt fuel and white smoke after large amount of water intrusion the likely issue is lack of compression, no or not enough compression and the spark plug will not be able if at all detonate the air fuel mixture. A compression test will let you know how many cylinders are affected and give you a ball park on the running cost to get it back and running. Long run it will be cheaper given you have not mentioned any noise of knocking and banging as well as no pool of oil under the car which tells me the rod hasn't tried to go thru the side of the block. As for the 3.8s, they are all aluminum. Avoiding this situation is a must for damage to an all aluminum engine is a guarantee to be a heck of a lot worse.

You should still call your insurance agent, better to find out if your insurance will cover it before doling out the dollars.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeanutButter View Post
He said he has BTRcc stage 3, I would assume he has more than just CAI.


I agree CAI is just not worth it, after driving through some big puddles during some down poors recently, I am looking at a SRI now. And yes you got very lucky lol.
Your absolutely right. He did. Just because he has a stage 3 tune though doesn't mean that he followed the guidelines and has all supporting mods. If he is big turbo and all kinds of other stuff done that would be a lot of work to return to stock, it might not be worth it to take it to the dealer, but if the mods aren't all that noticeable, he might be able to get away with it.
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post #12 of 26 Old 09-30-2014 Thread Starter
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Thanks a bunch for the help so far. This incident will be the reason I switch to a short ram. But as for an update, it idles fine now and revs normal up to 4k. That's when my btrcc launch control kicks in and it doesn't seem to like that and struggles to not give out but manages to drop back to idle fine. Now when I hit 4k I get a lot of blackish water come from my exhaust and alot of white smoke still. Also the strong gas smell remains. I'm thinking the blackish water is just from my exhaust going under water when I hit the puddle.

Also, I have all the supporting mods for a stage 3. So intercooler injectors turbo back exhaust bigger turbo. As far as warranty goes, I think I'm screwed. Or if I wanted to go that route, how should I approach it?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erikd View Post
Thanks a bunch for the help so far. This incident will be the reason I switch to a short ram. But as for an update, it idles fine now and revs normal up to 4k. That's when my btrcc launch control kicks in and it doesn't seem to like that and struggles to not give out but manages to drop back to idle fine. Now when I hit 4k I get a lot of blackish water come from my exhaust and alot of white smoke still. Also the strong gas smell remains. I'm thinking the blackish water is just from my exhaust going under water when I hit the puddle.

Also, I have all the supporting mods for a stage 3. So intercooler injectors turbo back exhaust bigger turbo. As far as warranty goes, I think I'm screwed. Or if I wanted to go that route, how should I approach it?
For warranty work, you will probably need to swap everything back to stock. you could try for insurance though and see what they do with it.
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post #14 of 26 Old 09-30-2014
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This should be an insurance issue not warranty.

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Problem is that a detailed diagnosis hasn't been done and he keeps trying to run the engine till it runs normal. Costs of repair is climbing, he needs to stop at this point and file a claim. The longer he waits the more the insurance company can distance themselves from it.

Being a turbo, the turbo would have vaporized the water as it sucked it in and then it would have condensed in the after cooler. The after cooler needs to have the hoses pulled and drained before trying to run the engine clean. He is still getting smoke and unburnt fuel smell. He still needs a compression test after making sure there is no water in the intake system. If one or more cylinders has a compression problem things can get worse.

I have to remove after coolers from Hino trucks to have cleaned or, replaced. Hino has a problem with internal oil blow by in the turbo and the cooler slowly fills and then runs like crap. And baked oil is practically imposable to clean out.

Water will eventually clear out but at a cost if not drained out.

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post #16 of 26 Old 10-01-2014
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I agree with Red. A warranty covers either an incorrectly manufactured part (defective) or a failure in workmanship. It does not cover a bad day or in other cases user error. Do a compression check and if there is damage contact your insurance company. That is who covers this.

Example, I lost my A/C a couple of years ago. No big deal, it must be a warranty item, right? Nope. A critter got under my car and decided to eat some wires. About $400 later my wiring was fixed and my warranty was kept intact. Not a Hyundai issue. They did tell me that I may have an insurance claim. Prior to completing their diagnosis, the service manager called me and told me to inform my insurance company of a possible claim. He said if the main wiring harness is sufficiently damaged they will hand the car over to my insurance company as a potential total loss. I lucked out and everything worked out fine. Calling your insurance agent will not raise your rates...only the claim will.

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post #17 of 26 Old 10-01-2014
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And this would be a comprehensive claim. In Illinois this does not raise the rates.

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Originally Posted by erikd View Post
I would assume warranty won't cover anything. I have a am cold air intake so I'm sure that was the culprit.
You didn't have the water guard for it did you?

If you didn't have the CAI, I bet you would of been fine. I am guessing hydro lock.

Curious did any water flow over the door sills?

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post #19 of 26 Old 10-01-2014 Thread Starter
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You didn't have the water guard for it did you?

If you didn't have the CAI, I bet you would of been fine. I am guessing hydro lock.

Curious did any water flow over the door sills?
I'm thinking because it cranks and can hold a idle that it is not hydrolocked. But surprisingly, I had no water in my cabin from leaks. I had a small amount splash in from me pushing it out but other than that, nothing at all inside.


So for an update, I did decide to go the insurance route. They are stopping by on Friday to check my car out.

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post #20 of 26 Old 10-01-2014
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Originally Posted by erikd View Post
I would assume warranty won't cover anything. I have a am cold air intake so I'm sure that was the culprit.
if you have a canned tune replace it with your original ecu.. i don't know what your mods are or if you have the tools and facility to replace your mods with oem parts. then take it to the dealership
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