Was this anybody's on here? - Hyundai Genesis Forum
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post #1 of 23 Old 04-02-2019 Thread Starter
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Was this anybody's on here?

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/invent...ting=233761585

So I'm going to look at this this weekend. From what I can tell from the pics is looks like its lowered, exhaust, devils own meth kit, 3.8 track spoiler and other odds and ends. Can anyone see anything else major that was added to this vehicle? It was in one accident and I don't know how bad yet and since it's a turbo and with a meth kit I'm a little worried that it was beat on/raced. Is 16k a little high on price? I was originally looking to get a 3.8 track/ultimate but I've been wanting to get something with a turbo as well. So I'm assuming this is putting down decent power and from what I see because of the turbo it responds to mods well. Only downside is no sunroof and navigation system. Any thoughts?

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post #2 of 23 Old 04-02-2019
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Link doesnt work? Screenshot it. Otherwise it only shows cars around whoever searches or clicks on that link. What popped up for me was a 2014 2.0T with 40K miles. Very good mods (intake, upgraded IC, exhaust, etc.16K asking price. Clean interior too along with extra gauges.
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post #3 of 23 Old 04-03-2019
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Why must dealerships defile a perfectly clean back end with their god damned stickers

16 is a bit high.... nobody pays for mods.

If you want Navi & Sunroof, look for an Ultimate/Track that hasn't been beat on and closer to stock and build it yourself, you'll be able to verify the work yourself and intrinsically know everything about it instead of having to learn someone else's mods.
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Originally Posted by JOutterbridge View Post
Link doesnt work? Screenshot it. Otherwise it only shows cars around whoever searches or clicks on that link. What popped up for me was a 2014 2.0T with 40K miles. Very good mods (intake, upgraded IC, exhaust, etc.16K asking price. Clean interior too along with extra gauges.
That’s the correct car. Whoever owned it did some quality work it looks like. I really wanted the 3.8 but I’ve also never owned a turbo vehicle and I feel it will be fun to own one.


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Why must dealerships defile a perfectly clean back end with their god damned stickers <img src="https://www.gencoupe.com/images/smilies/frown.gif" border="0" alt="" title="" class="inlineimg" />

16 is a bit high.... nobody pays for mods.

If you want Navi & Sunroof, look for an Ultimate/Track that hasn't been beat on and closer to stock and build it yourself, you'll be able to verify the work yourself and intrinsically know everything about it instead of having to learn someone else's mods.
lol ya the sticker will be the first to go. That’s exactly what I was thinking about the price. What would be a better price? 14k?
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post #5 of 23 Old 04-03-2019
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Honestly I wouldn't pay more then 13k for that car, maybe less because it's modded and you don't know what kind of tune it has. I would look for a nice 3.8 track/ultimate or R-spec.

2014 2.0 R-SPEC - SFR Tune and other goodies (SOLD) !
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Honestly I wouldn't pay more then 13k for that car, maybe less because it's modded and you don't know what kind of tune it has. I would look for a nice 3.8 track/ultimate or R-spec.
I'm going to see if they will pop out the ecu so I can see if there is BDR or SFR writing on it. Also if this was unmodded would you still suggest the 3.8 over the 2.0?
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post #7 of 23 Old 04-03-2019
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Similar cars in my area are going for $14-16k CAD..... which is $10-12K USD. Start there and negotiate.

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Similar cars in my area are going for $14-16k CAD..... which is $10-12K USD. Start there and negotiate.
Damn that's good to hear. I'm going to low ball the hell out of them.
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So I'm going to go check out the car regardless but to anyone that is knowledgeable is it more cost effective to get the car with the options I want or add some of the options later? Unfortunately the exact way I would want the car is not available. I'm really leaning towards the car with a turbo but there is no option to get the 2.0 with all the performance stuff plus a sunroof. I don't think adding a sunroof after purchase would be cost effective. Should I just get a base or touring and just add the seats, lsd, brembo brakes and Hid lights later? Or would it just be smarter instead to get a 3.8 touring and add the performance after or go right for the ultimate?
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post #10 of 23 Old 04-03-2019
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A retrofit for EVERYTHING from a base->Touring/Premium -> Track/Ultimate would end up costing you a lot in time, money and the possibility of no-warranty-coverage headaches if anything you did fails. Such is the life of a modder, you have to be willing to deal with that stuff. Or sacrifice the features just to get into one close to what you want so you can have relative peace of mind... such is the life of the used car buyer.

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A retrofit for EVERYTHING from a base->Touring/Premium -> Track/Ultimate would end up costing you a lot in time, money and the possibility of no-warranty-coverage headaches if anything you did fails. Such is the life of a modder, you have to be willing to deal with that stuff. Or sacrifice the features just to get into one close to what you want so you can have relative peace of mind... such is the life of the used car buyer.
There is no 2.0 r spec with a sunroof unfortunately. I'm pretty sure with what is already done to this one I would have trouble with some warranty issues but that's fine. As far as the 2.0 rspec what am I missing from some of the other models besides the sunroof? Push start, heated seats, turn signal mirrors, Hids, nav system, bluetooth.....Am I missing anything?

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post #12 of 23 Old 04-04-2019
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There is no 2.0 r spec with a sunroof unfortunately. I'm pretty sure with what is already done to this one I would have trouble with some warranty issues but that's fine. As far as the 2.0 rspec what am I missing from some of the other models besides the sunroof? Push start, heated seats, turn signal mirrors, Hids, nav system, bluetooth.....Am I missing anything?
I believe you get the basic sound system, not the premium 10 or 12 speaker+sub setup. Nav is optional in the Track model as well, mayyybe it's included by default in Ultimate.... I'm not super clear on the trim/option list on the 2013+ models.

performance wise, the stock tires springs, dampers and brakes are same as Ultimate+Track models.... basically, if it's got brembos, everything besides interior & lighting is identical.

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post #13 of 23 Old 04-05-2019 Thread Starter
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Does anyone think its a must to get a 2014 over a 2013 because of the transmission change?
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post #14 of 23 Old 04-06-2019
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No, if you have a choice get the newer one. If you have a good deal get the older.
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Some quick tips I've learned from buying multiple modified cars. It can be difficult to know what to look for at times if never having owned one.

1. Testing the car.
Make sure to take the car out. Hit the breaks hard. Take the car to high rpm at a decently open throttle to check the acceleration and listen/feel for the response the car is giving you. Drive the car spiritedly to see if the manual wastegate engaging correctly. If there are cutouts when your constant on spirited driving that means there can be issues with the actuator, wastegate, aftermarket fuel pump (check for noise at low fuel), and even timing if not tuned right. Drive on a rough road to check if drop springs are equal to the dampening of the shocks unless they're coilovers. You can open the hood and check the type as well. Push down on the car to check the stiffness and rebound.

2. Ask about the accident. For me it's not a big deal unless there was major repair going past the radiator or into the frame. Fender benders dont mean anything. In terms of the dependability of the car. For example I have an accident report on mine because someone left there car in neutral and it rolled into my back bumper leaving a whole in it. Check the lines of the car for equal spacing.

3. If you notice issues in part 1, ask to check the tune with a performance shop. If they say no run the other way.

4. Ask them if you can purchase warranty on the parts installed on the car. If they say no it's not a big deal but it helps for simple replacement.

Just know what you getting 8nto because a boosted car that was n/a cant be worked on at the dealer. You're gonna have to go to a performance shop or learn the work.

Good luck on the buy and try not to get too addicted to the boost &#x1f919;&#x1f3fc;
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If you can go for the 3.8. The newer the model the better. Also get the highest trim if you can. My R spec 2.0T has bluetooth and a sunroof.... maybe pre 2013 models didn't? I don't need a nav system but I can't imagine having an older model with less power. Easier to upgrade but worse shifting? And 16k is what any 2014 or newer car goes for in this part of the northeast. Over 100k miles may be 1000 less depending on condition. To have 40k miles that price isn't bad. To get one under 12000 it will likely be a lesser trim or poorer condition. As mentioned above, get background and carfax for the vehicle. Know what you're getting into and test drive both. The engine and transmissions are not that similar so choose what best suits you.
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post #17 of 23 Old 04-11-2019 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by br2 View Post
No, if you have a choice get the newer one. If you have a good deal get the older.
Really I thought the carbon synchros were supposed to be a lot better.

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Originally Posted by dahypnotik808 View Post
Some quick tips I've learned from buying multiple modified cars. It can be difficult to know what to look for at times if never having owned one.

1. Testing the car.
Make sure to take the car out. Hit the breaks hard. Take the car to high rpm at a decently open throttle to check the acceleration and listen/feel for the response the car is giving you. Drive the car spiritedly to see if the manual wastegate engaging correctly. If there are cutouts when your constant on spirited driving that means there can be issues with the actuator, wastegate, aftermarket fuel pump (check for noise at low fuel), and even timing if not tuned right. Drive on a rough road to check if drop springs are equal to the dampening of the shocks unless they're coilovers. You can open the hood and check the type as well. Push down on the car to check the stiffness and rebound.

2. Ask about the accident. For me it's not a big deal unless there was major repair going past the radiator or into the frame. Fender benders dont mean anything. In terms of the dependability of the car. For example I have an accident report on mine because someone left there car in neutral and it rolled into my back bumper leaving a whole in it. Check the lines of the car for equal spacing.

3. If you notice issues in part 1, ask to check the tune with a performance shop. If they say no run the other way.

4. Ask them if you can purchase warranty on the parts installed on the car. If they say no it's not a big deal but it helps for simple replacement.

Just know what you getting 8nto because a boosted car that was n/a cant be worked on at the dealer. You're gonna have to go to a performance shop or learn the work.

Good luck on the buy and try not to get too addicted to the boost &#x1f919;&#x1f3fc;
Thanks for all the info. What do you mean by "cutouts" when driving spirited? Ya I need to find out about the accident. Carfax is clean but carguru uses a different system which says there was one accident. Hopefully minor. As far as the tune are there any markings on the ecu if it is a btr or sfr? Boost is completely new to me but I look forward to learning.

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If you can go for the 3.8. The newer the model the better. Also get the highest trim if you can. My R spec 2.0T has bluetooth and a sunroof.... maybe pre 2013 models didn't? I don't need a nav system but I can't imagine having an older model with less power. Easier to upgrade but worse shifting? And 16k is what any 2014 or newer car goes for in this part of the northeast. Over 100k miles may be 1000 less depending on condition. To have 40k miles that price isn't bad. To get one under 12000 it will likely be a lesser trim or poorer condition. As mentioned above, get background and carfax for the vehicle. Know what you're getting into and test drive both. The engine and transmissions are not that similar so choose what best suits you.
I did want a 3.8 because of the power out the box and I'm sure the exhaust sounds better but I'm really liking the idea of getting the turbo. Unfortunately I can't have the best of both worlds with the 2.0 as there is no track or ultimate model. Ya I won't be getting anything pre 2013 but I'm leaning toward the 2014 2.0 for the power increase over the BK1 and the better transmission in the 2014+.
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post #18 of 23 Old 04-11-2019
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The synchro thing was to address the 5th gear grind debacle, which it partially did, but in terms of 'quality' did little to improve shift feel. A short shifter and polyurethane bushings and stiffer transmission mount ACTUALLY makes the gearbox perform AND feel better, and some good transmission fluid fixes the grinds in the old and is recommended for the carbon coated synchro transmissions as well.

For the cutout comment, you're basically trying to ensure the build was done WELL and the tune is performing well. A cutout in this case means 'power cut'. Say you take it out and go wide open throttle -- the turbo spools, builds pressure as it should, but then the wastegate opens too early/too fully, or opens suddenly at some random RPM. Maybe it pops an intercooler hose off. Maybe the tune struggles with the amount of boost, the AFR goes too lean and cuts the throttle. All these are symptoms of an incomplete or poorly tuned build - bad wastegate/BOV pressure spring, old silicon couplers falling off the intercooler, poor injectors/bad tune.

What you want is to get in, warm the car up, and bury the needle in 3rd gear on the highway and feel nothing but smooth power the entire time the turbo is spooled up. Take it from 2500-6500RPM. A couple of times. It should be EXTREMELY CONSISTENT each time. If it has an AFR gauge, it should read a good rich 10:1-11:1 AFR the entire time your foot is buried and stoich optimal (13:1-14:1) when you're puttering around at even load just maintaining normal street speeds. That's a healthy build.
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[/quote]
Thanks for all the info. What do you mean by "cutouts" when driving spirited? Ya I need to find out about the accident. Carfax is clean but carguru uses a different system which says there was one accident. Hopefully minor. As far as the tune are there any markings on the ecu if it is a btr or sfr? Boost is completely new to me but I look forward to learning.

Many times when you go from electronic (electronic boost solenoid, electronic wastegate, etc...) to manual the response changes and feels like its choking out.

Unfortunately you wont be able to tell the tune of a car without having it plugged in. A performance shop can plug into the car and tell you if theirs a tune on it. They'll charge you to look at the car but in my opinion it's worth it.

I hope it all pans out. Boosted cars are addictively fun.
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Originally Posted by TKJode View Post
The synchro thing was to address the 5th gear grind debacle, which it partially did, but in terms of 'quality' did little to improve shift feel. A short shifter and polyurethane bushings and stiffer transmission mount ACTUALLY makes the gearbox perform AND feel better, and some good transmission fluid fixes the grinds in the old and is recommended for the carbon coated synchro transmissions as well.

For the cutout comment, you're basically trying to ensure the build was done WELL and the tune is performing well. A cutout in this case means 'power cut'. Say you take it out and go wide open throttle -- the turbo spools, builds pressure as it should, but then the wastegate opens too early/too fully, or opens suddenly at some random RPM. Maybe it pops an intercooler hose off. Maybe the tune struggles with the amount of boost, the AFR goes too lean and cuts the throttle. All these are symptoms of an incomplete or poorly tuned build - bad wastegate/BOV pressure spring, old silicon couplers falling off the intercooler, poor injectors/bad tune.

What you want is to get in, warm the car up, and bury the needle in 3rd gear on the highway and feel nothing but smooth power the entire time the turbo is spooled up. Take it from 2500-6500RPM. A couple of times. It should be EXTREMELY CONSISTENT each time. If it has an AFR gauge, it should read a good rich 10:1-11:1 AFR the entire time your foot is buried and stoich optimal (13:1-14:1) when you're puttering around at even load just maintaining normal street speeds. That's a healthy build.
Thanks for the info. Having never owned a turbo vehicle, should the wastegate only open when I'm under boost and step on the clutch?
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