oil weight - Hyundai Genesis Forum
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post #1 of 19 Old 09-20-2019 Thread Starter
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oil weight

I moved to a hotter area (Phoenix) where the temperatures are slightly higher than before (believe it ranges from 40-120 F here). I have a 3.8 bk1 and wondering if I should switch oil weight to something thicker. Currently using a full synthetic 5w-20 per the manual. Am wondering if this is too thin for this kind of heat. This is for a stock gen.

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post #2 of 19 Old 09-20-2019
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I would go up to 5w30 or 5w40.
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post #3 of 19 Old 09-20-2019
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I run 5W30 synthetic in my 14 3.8 coupe and my 4 other vehicles here in vegas and have never had a problem.
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post #4 of 19 Old 09-22-2019
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I live in Vegas...same weather as Phoenix. I have always used full synth 5W20. No problems in 105,000 miles because of it.
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post #5 of 19 Old 09-23-2019
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The manual recommends 5W30 for your temperature range. I'd stick with it. There are some really great oils out there that aren't often mentioned on here:

5W30 Amsoil Signature Series has incredible wear protection and temperature tolerance. Pretty affordable.

5W30 Renewable Lubricants SHPPV Bio-SynXtra has great wear protection. Also biodegradable. Ever wanted to run on vegetables?

5W30 Valvoline Full Synthetic High Mileage with MaxLife Technology (API SN/GM dexos 1 in silver bottle). Cheap and widely available! You can buy it at Walmart if you want.

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post #6 of 19 Old 09-24-2019 Thread Starter
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I thought the manual says 5w-20. I'll take a closer look to see if it's 5w-30 for higher temp climate. I hate to deviate from what the manual calls for... im just nutty like that...

Good inputs.

2010 Genesis Coupe GT 3.8 Auto
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post #7 of 19 Old 09-24-2019
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If your really concerned, even el cheapo crap oil will do well,.....with an oil cooler. Changed frequently.

Here we go again !
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post #8 of 19 Old 09-24-2019
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On a BK1 you can use either 5w20 or 5w30. Going with the extra viscosity of a 5w30 will only help. Now if you had a BK2 with that God aweful invention of GDI that dilutes oil and kills it's usefulness, I would say 5W30 all they way.

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post #9 of 19 Old 09-26-2019
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Damn and I'm running 5w50 in 2.0bk1, guess will need to switch for winter to something not as viscous.
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post #10 of 19 Old 09-27-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pchelka View Post
Damn and I'm running 5w50 in 2.0bk1, guess will need to switch for winter to something not as viscous.
You're running 5w20 on a 2.0 BK1? There was a bulletin quite a few years ago that recommends 5w40 for high performance driving. If you aren't hard on the car, then you can go with 5w30.

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post #11 of 19 Old 10-01-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dagreekgencoupe View Post
You're running 5w20 on a 2.0 BK1? There was a bulletin quite a few years ago that recommends 5w40 for high performance driving. If you aren't hard on the car, then you can go with 5w30.
I'm running 5w50, may switch to something thinner for the winter like 0w30 or 0w40 as we get sub freezing temps here
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post #12 of 19 Old 10-03-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pchelka View Post
I'm running 5w50, may switch to something thinner for the winter like 0w30 or 0w40 as we get sub freezing temps here
Sorry, got old man eyes. LOL!!!!

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post #13 of 19 Old 10-04-2019
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When I had my 2006 3.5 Altima I used German made Fully Synth. 0w30 Castrol for 100,000 miles. Never a problem! I regularly changed it at 4500 miles.

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post #14 of 19 Old 10-05-2019
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In my case its just for winter, normally we get -10C (14F) and extreme cases up to -30C (-22F), so easier flowing oil is welcomed for these cold starts i.e 0w30 or 0w40. Trade of is highway driving as i often sit 4-5k rpm in 5th or more for prolonged time on highway so for that type of driving w50 is simply safer
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post #15 of 19 Old 10-05-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pchelka View Post
In my case its just for winter, normally we get -10C (14F) and extreme cases up to -30C (-22F), so easier flowing oil is welcomed for these cold starts i.e 0w30 or 0w40. Trade of is highway driving as i often sit 4-5k rpm in 5th or more for prolonged time on highway so for that type of driving w50 is simply safer

I think you guys are mistaken on what the w30/40/50 means. If you constantly do spirited driving or have direct injection then yes, I'd recommend W30 or W40 for the summer. But in the winter does the oil ever even get close to 350 degrees that would make it start breaking down and increase wear? If not then what's the point of getting a heavier weight? It'll just cause more wear on warmup. API Oil lubricates and protects 98% similarly. That 1 or 2 percent you think your saving by going heavier is more likely to kill your oil pump and then your engine than using a lighter weight oil. Heck, Japan will likely have 0W8 and 0W16 oils soon. The lower the number the faster the oil can circulate on startup. And as we all know, most engine wear is from cold starts, not mid/high rpm driving unless you're constantly at the redline.

Last edited by JOutterbridge; 10-06-2019 at 08:22 AM.
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post #16 of 19 Old 10-05-2019
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Sorry about that rant. My point is I see too many GC owners blowing 3.8 NON TURBO engines and destroying bearings due to failed oil pumps and having the wrong oil for the climate. A 3.8 should almost never die unless you really screw something up or have a bad tune with bad gas. The desert and very deep south excluded, I'd always go OEM so you dont get declined warranties. This excludes track drivers obviously
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post #17 of 19 Old 10-06-2019
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This is why for the winter I'm switching to 0w40 or 0w30, just need to watch constant high load rpms on highway. But for summer and hard driving its 5w50
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post #18 of 19 Old 10-06-2019
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go OEM so you dont get declined warranties.

The cap on my 2014 3.8 says 5W30, as well as on my other five cars so thats what i use year round, and im in the desert. Ive owned and been responsible for many different vehicles for over 50 years,i was responsible for and worked on a fleet of rental cars for eight years. Ive never experienced a oil related failure as long at its changed at some reasonable interval and isn't run without oil, such as a hole in a oil pan. I dont think i know more than the engineers that choose the oil spec for my vehicles. Im not going to give the dealer a easy way to decline a warranty repair, if i ever have one, by deviating from the manufacturers recommended oil specification. I get this may not apply to competition or some highly modified vehicles but does for most applications and situations. Just my personal experience FWIW.
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post #19 of 19 Old 10-06-2019
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hehe ... my car is copart car transported over the pond to eastern europe - warranty is a word that doesn't literally exists here so i don't relay care.
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