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post #1 of 50 Old 10-02-2019 Thread Starter
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ecu reset or tune after fmic

I'm on sfr canned stage 1 tune, wondering if i need to reset ecu or retune after installing 2.5" ic piping and mishimoto fmic. as expected there is a slight loss in boost 1-2psi... currently peaking at 16psi in 4th low rpm and tapers to 13psi. can anything be done with the tune to utilize the new lower temps? maybe smaller piping would have been better?

also im straight piped except for the downpipe,. has intake and o2 housing as well

thanks
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Try resetting your ecu , but your cars ecu should learn . Your pesk boost seems low to me . I have the same tune .and hit 19 point somthing psi . Look for a posible air leak in i.c. pipping

2012 Red premium 2.0t M/t
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Try resetting your ecu , but your cars ecu should learn . Your pesk boost seems low to me . I have the same tune .and hit 19 point somthing psi . Look for a posible air leak in i.c. pipping
yeah honestly even before the fmic i saw a spike "one-time" 17psi.. and it really only holds 13.5-14.5..... im automatic too if it makes a difference.

my tbolt clamps are locked in ungodly tight. according to bluetooth dash command app my vacuum is 9.6-9.7 if you ever used that app.
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Yup the automatic slightly lacking in performace ..

2012 Red premium 2.0t M/t
K&N Typhoon intake
TWN Big R type 600 gram shifter knob
Quaife LSD
SFR stage 1 canned
Synapse BOV
Uniq performance rigid collar kit
Solo Performance HI-flow cat down pipe + cat back
Saikou Michi catch cans
Uniq Performance Strut Bar
BBM Spoiler
ATQ Short shifter + bushings
13+Flywheel , Veleo HD cutch and throw out bearing , APR FW bolts , SS braided hose
Stop tech SS brake lines
Uniq Performance FMIC
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Try Torqe pro with hyundai add on less than 10 bucks . A much better app

2012 Red premium 2.0t M/t
K&N Typhoon intake
TWN Big R type 600 gram shifter knob
Quaife LSD
SFR stage 1 canned
Synapse BOV
Uniq performance rigid collar kit
Solo Performance HI-flow cat down pipe + cat back
Saikou Michi catch cans
Uniq Performance Strut Bar
BBM Spoiler
ATQ Short shifter + bushings
13+Flywheel , Veleo HD cutch and throw out bearing , APR FW bolts , SS braided hose
Stop tech SS brake lines
Uniq Performance FMIC
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Why did you go to your new FMIC?
Was your oem piping 2.25 ?
If so the larger fmic with the increase ID of the piping is nothing more than pressure drops effects on your current tune. One should re-tune when adding significant system upgrades to achieve maximum benefit. Tunes can adjust some, but in your case the boost drop should have been expected.

Most get a larger fmic when they put a larger turbo or significantly increase their tune,(custom).

Here we go again !
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Why did you go to your new FMIC?
Was your oem piping 2.25 ?
If so the larger fmic with the increase ID of the piping is nothing more than pressure drops effects on your current tune. One should re-tune when adding significant system upgrades to achieve maximum benefit. Tunes can adjust some, but in your case the boost drop should have been expected.

Most get a larger fmic when they put a larger turbo or significantly increase their tune,(custom).
well i live in florida and the heat has been ridiculous to where the car runs ungodly slow. intake temps were around 136-140 with all the stock piping and the FMIC managed to reduce this to 110-114 which i think is pretty significant.. so my original goal was to get colder air to the engine more often.

CXRacing,Mishimoto, CPE, they are all running 2.5" pipe so i went with that - i couldnt find a diy kit with 2" piping or 2.25"
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I have stock turbo a tune, 2.5" piping and a huge IC. Still see 21 psi as a peak. Tapers to 15 psi or so depending on ambient temperature .

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I have stock turbo a tune, 2.5" piping and a huge IC. Still see 21 psi as a peak. Tapers to 15 psi or so depending on ambient temperature .
Damn, are you canned sfr or alphaspeed? auto / manual?

i checked all connections from hot side to cold side... tbolts are torqued down hard! all new couplers and everything.. i'm getting a new intercooler on monday too just in case there is a leak there, z-line mishimoto.. that's all i can think of. I've had the BOV on / off i've used the stock valve... all of which have not made a difference so i don't think it's that either.
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Originally Posted by rick rick View Post
Damn, are you canned sfr or alphaspeed? auto / manual?

i checked all connections from hot side to cold side... tbolts are torqued down hard! all new couplers and everything.. i'm getting a new intercooler on monday too just in case there is a leak there, z-line mishimoto.. that's all i can think of. I've had the BOV on / off i've used the stock valve... all of which have not made a difference so i don't think it's that either.
It's a custom over the internet tune from what use to be Beyond Redline. PA tuner hardware. Manual trans. Had it updated once and it is almost spot on.

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Ok I get it. I would have opted for a race radiator, and a w/meth system.

Here we go again !
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I'm guessing you have a BK1. SFR stage 1 canned tunes vary a great deal, depending on the octane choice you picked. They have options for 87, 89, 91 and 93. Anything below 91 is going to run too rich, especially in a very hot and humid climate and the mapping will not be as aggressive. You can adjust the wastegate arm by turning it clockwise to shorten it and get a little extra boost from it. I had 3 turns, it was boosting to 20 and holding around 18, but it was boosting too much at part throttle so I back it to 1 turn. Now at 1 turn, it's at 18 and holding around 16. Also check your intercooler pipes for leaks, but I doubt it cause you would hear air blowing out. You can also bypass the heater hoses to the Throttle Body to lower your IAT's, since you live in FL you can leave the bypass permanently.
Now about the stock Bypass Valve compared to a real Blow Off Valve, you are recirculating air that should have been expelled into the atmosphere. The problem with the recirculated air is that it's no longer charged from the turbo so it just kind of like sits there and gets hot from the heat of the turbo housing. You are better off using a real Blow Off Valve and routing it from the main vacuum source off the black and white check valve. It will be more responsive in releasing boost when getting off the throttle at WOT. It will not increase your boost level, but it will provide a better flow of charged air when getting off and getting back on the throttle at WOT. But then again you have an automatic, so you have constant load unless you get off the throttle completely.

2010 2.0T Premium 6 Speed M/T
SFR Stage 1 Tune 93 Octane
Homemade SRI
Homemade single exit exhaust
Kinugawa/Kamak (Forge) BOV and Bypassed
Megan Racing Tranny Mount
Actuator arm baseline adjustment, needed 3 whole turns
Injen Intercoolers Pipes
Turbo Boost Gauge
HID Headlight Conversion Kit
Red LEDs in Dash, Center Display, HVAC Controls, Steering Wheel Controls and Window Switches
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I'm guessing you have a BK1. SFR stage 1 canned tunes vary a great deal, depending on the octane choice you picked. They have options for 87, 89, 91 and 93. Anything below 91 is going to run too rich, especially in a very hot and humid climate and the mapping will not be as aggressive. You can adjust the wastegate arm by turning it clockwise to shorten it and get a little extra boost from it. I had 3 turns, it was boosting to 20 and holding around 18, but it was boosting too much at part throttle so I back it to 1 turn. Now at 1 turn, it's at 18 and holding around 16. Also check your intercooler pipes for leaks, but I doubt it cause you would hear air blowing out. You can also bypass the heater hoses to the Throttle Body to lower your IAT's, since you live in FL you can leave the bypass permanently.
Now about the stock Bypass Valve compared to a real Blow Off Valve, you are recirculating air that should have been expelled into the atmosphere. The problem with the recirculated air is that it's no longer charged from the turbo so it just kind of like sits there and gets hot from the heat of the turbo housing. You are better off using a real Blow Off Valve and routing it from the main vacuum source off the black and white check valve. It will be more responsive in releasing boost when getting off the throttle at WOT. It will not increase your boost level, but it will provide a better flow of charged air when getting off and getting back on the throttle at WOT. But then again you have an automatic, so you have constant load unless you get off the throttle completely.
Other way around

too lean, the ecu will cut timing and other things. Basically the ecu is listening to the knock sensor. The knock sensor is a mic, tuned to listen to a certain frequency. The leaner the engine runs, the more likely for the engine to give off that frequency, then the ecu starts to cut timing and other things.

EDIT: BK1 doesn't use a WB sensor. It reads O2 by how frequent the readings sweep from high/low from the narrow band sensor.

Last edited by AKGC; 10-03-2019 at 10:57 AM.
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Other way around
Which part?

2010 2.0T Premium 6 Speed M/T
SFR Stage 1 Tune 93 Octane
Homemade SRI
Homemade single exit exhaust
Kinugawa/Kamak (Forge) BOV and Bypassed
Megan Racing Tranny Mount
Actuator arm baseline adjustment, needed 3 whole turns
Injen Intercoolers Pipes
Turbo Boost Gauge
HID Headlight Conversion Kit
Red LEDs in Dash, Center Display, HVAC Controls, Steering Wheel Controls and Window Switches
LED Interior, Glove Box, Trunk and License Plate Lights
Spyder LED Taillights
Rear Lip Spoiler
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Which part?
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Originally Posted by dagreekgencoupe View Post
Anything below 91 is going to run too rich.
lower octane than what it's tuned for means the engine will run leaner.
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lower octane than what it's tuned for means the engine will run leaner.
Yes, but we don't know which tune he has. SFR has 4 different mapping options for the stage 1, 87, 89, 91 or 93. What I said was that the 87 and 89 will be richer right off the bat than a 91 or 93 tune, to compensate for the lower octane. Couple that with the hot and humid climate of Florida and you get a double whammy.

2010 2.0T Premium 6 Speed M/T
SFR Stage 1 Tune 93 Octane
Homemade SRI
Homemade single exit exhaust
Kinugawa/Kamak (Forge) BOV and Bypassed
Megan Racing Tranny Mount
Actuator arm baseline adjustment, needed 3 whole turns
Injen Intercoolers Pipes
Turbo Boost Gauge
HID Headlight Conversion Kit
Red LEDs in Dash, Center Display, HVAC Controls, Steering Wheel Controls and Window Switches
LED Interior, Glove Box, Trunk and License Plate Lights
Spyder LED Taillights
Rear Lip Spoiler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKGC View Post
lower octane than what it's tuned for means the engine will run leaner.
Yes, but we don't know which tune he has. SFR has 4 different mapping options for the stage 1, 87, 89, 91 or 93. What I said was that the 87 and 89 will be richer right off the bat than a 91 or 93 tune, to compensate for the lower octane. Couple that with the hot and humid climate of Florida and you get a double whammy.
thanks for everyone responding-. I am currently on the 91 octane stage 1. I would actually say the car is running rich according to my dashcommand app and also the tailpipe is a little black 🤣.

I definitely have not tried the wastegate how do I know that I overturned it will it over boost and just cut back or will the motor just blow up. LOL

edit: 91 octane

Last edited by rick rick; 10-03-2019 at 12:24 PM.
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Ok I get it. I would have opted for a race radiator, and a w/meth system.
Yea the meth systems were very provoking but i did all this for about 230 bucks i couldn't find anything better for the price.
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Originally Posted by rick rick View Post
thanks for everyone responding-. I am currently on the 91 octane stage 1. I would actually say the car is running rich according to my dashcommand app and also the tailpipe is a little black 🤣.

I definitely have not tried the wastegate how do I know that I overturned it will it over boost and just cut back or will the motor just blow up. LOL

edit: 91 octane
OK, so it's climate related. Especially in this weird heatwave, hot and humid temperatures cause the air to become very dense, causing the ECU to compensate and run rich. Once it gets cooler and less humid it will run right and that's the best time to baseline your wastegate. You can adjust the wastegate arm and increase your boost a little just by turning it clockwise 1 whole turn at a time until you like where it's at. At 3 turns I was hitting 20 PSI and holding at 18, at 1 turn I'm hitting 18 PSI holding at 16. Not every car is the same, so there is a little trial and error. This is an old school trick that is best for the BK1 with the vacuum controlled wastegate.

2010 2.0T Premium 6 Speed M/T
SFR Stage 1 Tune 93 Octane
Homemade SRI
Homemade single exit exhaust
Kinugawa/Kamak (Forge) BOV and Bypassed
Megan Racing Tranny Mount
Actuator arm baseline adjustment, needed 3 whole turns
Injen Intercoolers Pipes
Turbo Boost Gauge
HID Headlight Conversion Kit
Red LEDs in Dash, Center Display, HVAC Controls, Steering Wheel Controls and Window Switches
LED Interior, Glove Box, Trunk and License Plate Lights
Spyder LED Taillights
Rear Lip Spoiler
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Originally Posted by dagreekgencoupe View Post
OK, so it's climate related. Especially in this weird heatwave, hot and humid temperatures cause the air to become very dense, causing the ECU to compensate and run rich. Once it gets cooler and less humid it will run right and that's the best time to baseline your wastegate. You can adjust the wastegate arm and increase your boost a little just by turning it clockwise 1 whole turn at a time until you like where it's at. At 3 turns I was hitting 20 PSI and holding at 18, at 1 turn I'm hitting 18 PSI holding at 16. Not every car is the same, so there is a little trial and error. This is an old school trick that is best for the BK1 with the vacuum controlled wastegate.
i will give it a go... since im running rich i feel like im in a good position to try this. if anything goes wrong will it just go into limp or boost cut? seems almost too easy to be true lol
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