Power windows hard bottoming - Hyundai Genesis Forum
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post #1 of 35 Old 08-05-2018 Thread Starter
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Power windows hard bottoming

Both my power windows have developed the hard bottoming. I can reset the limits per the manual and it works for a couple days. Then back to the clunk when it hits bottom. I have only reset from the drivers windows switch FWIW.

Here's the procedure.

Quote:
If the power window is not operated correctly, the automatic power window system must be reset as follows:
1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
2. Open the window fully by manual down (press the front portion of the switch to the first detention position.).
3. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position and to the ON position again within 2 seconds.
4. Press the front portion of the switch 3 times within 5 seconds.
5. Close the window and continue pulling up on the power window switch for at least 1 second after the window is completely closed.
I see inside the door and attached to the motor is the window safety module. There is one on the passenger side too. I assume this is where the memory is stored for the stops.

I have not tried the reset using the passenger window switch. I will do this today.

But I am guessing the module is bad or has a bad connection.

Here are the wire diagrams and connector pinouts along with the interior door pictures.


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post #2 of 35 Old 08-05-2018 Thread Starter
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The safety module appears to be part of the window motor.



right side motor #824602M000
left side motor #824502M000

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Last edited by Red Raspberry; 08-05-2018 at 08:18 AM.
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post #3 of 35 Old 08-05-2018 Thread Starter
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Looking at the wire diagram the only common places for both sides are two connections on the left side of the drivers side footwell. FD11 and MF11


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post #4 of 35 Old 08-05-2018
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Thanks for this research, Red. I'm having this issue in both windows, too

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post #5 of 35 Old 08-06-2018
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I've had this problem on my BK1 and now my BK2 multiple times. The dealership has "fixed" it several times. I was told that the rubber "bump stops" that the regulator stops on eventually get crusty and break off, causing the "hard stop" at the bottom. Seems to me like another design corner that was cut to save money rather than using Polyurethane or something that would out last the car...

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post #6 of 35 Old 08-07-2018 Thread Starter
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I don't believe it is mechanical wear as I again reset the windows limit three days ago. So far all is well but that is what usually happens. I'll report back when it starts the hard bottoming again. This time I did the reset for the passenger window from the passenger switch.

I find it odd that the passenger window does it too as I seldom lower that window. It does get the door opened frequently and that is the most use for the window drop.

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In case you get into the door again, this is a pic of a new window regulator with the "stops" intact. I haven't personally tore into it, but this is what I was told causes the "thump". I'm sure setting the limit also has a lot to do with it also.

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post #8 of 35 Old 08-07-2018 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LPGenCoupe View Post
In case you get into the door again, this is a pic of a new window regulator with the "stops" intact. I haven't personally tore into it, but this is what I was told causes the "thump". I'm sure setting the limit also has a lot to do with it also.

Have you tried the reset procedure yourself to see if the thump goes away?

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post #9 of 35 Old 08-07-2018
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Just some more info that may be relevant to solving this problem.

I had no issues with my windows till I physically removed them to install sound dampening inside the inner door panel.
After putting them back, I did get a really loud sound. I readjusted the windows, one side went completely away, the other side is noticeable quieter, but is louder than before I removed the glass.

It isnt something that has bothered me too much, as most noises will easily drown it out. So i havent actively tried to fix it too much.

I feel it is simply something that is not aligned perfectly. My next step to trouble shoot this would be to get one of those flexible snake cameras and see if I could see where it is hitting.

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post #10 of 35 Old 08-07-2018 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chinaman_Chong View Post
Just some more info that may be relevant to solving this problem.

I had no issues with my windows till I physically removed them to install sound dampening inside the inner door panel.
After putting them back, I did get a really loud sound. I readjusted the windows, one side went completely away, the other side is noticeable quieter, but is louder than before I removed the glass.

It isnt something that has bothered me too much, as most noises will easily drown it out. So i havent actively tried to fix it too much.

I feel it is simply something that is not aligned perfectly. My next step to trouble shoot this would be to get one of those flexible snake cameras and see if I could see where it is hitting.
Have you tried the reset procedure?

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post #11 of 35 Old 08-07-2018
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I haven't tried it yet. Every time I've had a problem, the dealership replaced the regulators under warranty. Now that my warranty is finally gone, I'm gonna have to try the reset when the noise comes back...it always comes back eventually...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Raspberry View Post
Have you tried the reset procedure?
yep, one of the first things that need to be done once the window regulator has been unplugged

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post #13 of 35 Old 08-08-2018
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Mine have always clunked a little, i just assumed thats just how they were before reading this thread, I did have to replace the battery last year, I'll give the reset procedure a try and see if the clunk goes away.
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post #14 of 35 Old 08-11-2018 Thread Starter
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4 driving days and one sitting day and the drivers side needed reset again. Passenger side was still OK.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Raspberry View Post
4 driving days and one sitting day and the drivers side needed reset again. Passenger side was still OK.
Same here. Not sure if it even lasted 4 days...

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post #16 of 35 Old 08-12-2018
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So, I just read the instructions again... Would it not be possible to leave the windows just a tad high from the full down position at the start of the reprogram sequence to get the system to register a higher stop point? Or perhaps the computer needs the regulator to be bottomed out/immobile to recalibrate the system... IDK, It's worth a try.

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post #17 of 35 Old 08-12-2018 Thread Starter
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You could try. I think the normal way they sense the stop is current draw. If it's based on time though that idea should work.

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post #18 of 35 Old 08-12-2018
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I had considered that, too. It's possible that the window being able to move will cancel out the maintenance mode entered by futzing with the ignition. I'll give this a try tomorrow and report back. I doubt it can hurt anything to try.

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post #19 of 35 Old 08-13-2018
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Funny how when I see this thread that I started noticing my windows are hard bottoming lol. Looks like I'm gonna give this a try!

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post #20 of 35 Old 08-21-2018
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Well, I've done the reset several times now...it never seems to last more than a week. There's gotta be more to it than just that memory position, on my car at least...

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