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DIY: Rear deck removal/Sub installation

102K views 144 replies 59 participants last post by  Projectx7 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
edit*
Re-uploaded my DIY in PDF form so photos are now preserved.

http://projectlancer.net/gencoupe/Rear Deck Removal.pdf

DIY: Rear deck removal/Sub Installation​

Disclaimer:
As with any DIY you assume full responsibility for what you do to your car and I am in no way liable for any damage that happens. In other wards do this DYI at your own risk!

Car: 2010 Genesis coupe R-Spec Edition
For all of my DIY the car model and trim will be a 2010 Genesis coupe R-Spec Edition most trims will be the same for most aspects but there is the possibility that things can be different on your trim vehicle that may require altering the DIY steps ect.

Tools:
Philips screwdriver
Socket wrench
10MM socket
Socket Extension
Flashlight
Drill*
Drill bits*
Bolts*
*needed if installing a custom sub.

Rear Deck Removal:
1) First slide up both front seats to give you some working room in the back. Once you do that pull down your back seats so you can see the rear panel. You will use your Philips screw driver to remove all of the bolts holding this panel on.


2) Open your trunk and remove the floor matt to expose the cars body. You will see all the way in the back of your trunk near the seats there is a foam protector screwed onto the floor this needs to be removed. Remove the screws using your Philips screw driver. Once you remove the foam protector you will see two bolts that hold the rear panel [where the red arrow are pointing to]. You will need your 10 MM socket to remove these two bolts.





3) Now the rear panel is fully unbolted and ready to come out. You’ll notice its split into two different pieces a left and right one. This is the method I used so I can shortcut removing the rest of the interior panels. The rear panel interlocks with the side panel. It is shaped like an L. Take the left panel at the farthest end from the side panel and pull it towards you and around clockwise so that the panel slips free from the side panel. You will need to use some force but don’t go Rambo on it and break the panel either just take caution while doing this. Do this for the right side as well.


4) Okay now the hard part is done the rest is very simple. You will now have to remove the rear pillars. To do this get a flat head screw driver to remove the cap then use your 10MM socket with an extension to remove the bolt holding it in place. When you go to pull this off just be careful as there are a lot of wires you do NOT want to mess with.




5) Now pull up slightly on the rear deck carpet panel so you can see under it. Use your flashlight and locate where the brake light plug is and unplug it it should be directly in the center all the way back. Now just pull up on the rear deck there are around 4 pressure clips that hold it on. Now the rear panel has been removed and can easily be pushed out of the way just give the seat belts a lot of extra slack and push the rear deck into the trunk. If you look at the bottom of my first picture you’ll see the rear deck just pushed aside. I also added some pictures of the rear without the interior.









Sub Installation:

1) Now that the rear deck has been removed you can install your 8” sub. That is the largest size you will be able to fit in there without modifying the rear deck. First you’ll either see a black dummy plate if your car doesn’t have a sub or a sub if you do. This plate is held on by 4 10MM bolts.







2) Now that the plate is removed test fit your sub in the hole to make sure it fits. From here on I can’t give you anymore guidance as subs and way to mount them will vary so you’ll need to use some ingenuity to mount her up. Remember to lay it out well where your drilling the hole and test fit until your certain it’s how you want it.


 
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#132 ·
i have a 2010 gencoupe base, and plan on getting a single 10" Alpine Sub with a MTX Audio 350W amp, in a slim enclosure, would it be necessary to vent the trunk? i have read and found that you guys said it would damage the taillights, but would a single 10" really do any harm? the trunk isn't sealed off that well that it would cause harm is it? if it would its just as simple as drilling a 2" hole in the stock sub block off plate?
 
#133 ·
I wouldn't do that. I added a sub in my Gen (2X8" - 700W RMS Alpine amp) and I kept the OEM sub installed too. I didn't vent the trunk... I had sub in my last 6 cars and I never vented a trunk. I think that would be useless. Bass freq pass through everything. Moreover, the trunk isn't sealed that good anyway.
 
#134 ·
yeah thats what i thought, lol never heard of people venting their trunk when installing a sub in any car, this is the first i heard of anyone doing it to their car to prevent issues down the road, i could see it if someone had 2 12" subs, but even then haha
 
#135 ·
I use to have 2X12" 500W RMS each in my last car, a 300m, even then, the trunk wasn't vented ;-)

Have fun with your next sub. It does add to the lower freqs. It is great.

By the way, don't use the antenna wire as a trigger to turn on your external amp. The stupid antenna signal works only when the stereo is set to FM! That the only car I have seen that has that weird behavior.
 
#138 ·
Has anyone replaced the factory 8" with a 12" by chance?
 
#140 ·
I know this thread is mega-dead BUT if anyone has the infinity sound system and is having rattles from the rear deck. I've took everything apart and isolated 2 possible culprits:

1) The cover for the sub which is riveted to the rear deck. This is plastic which sits around the sub (metal).
2) The trunk light housing. This is plastic directly on metal.

I do plan to drive with the rear naked for the next few days to confirm the rattle is not present. If no rattle, my plan is to line the inside and outside diameter of the sub cover with felt and use thick pieces of foam around the sub cover areas that make contact with the deck. I also will be applying felt to the trunk light housing.
 
#141 ·
I want you to know, this guide was AMAZING! read it over about 5 times, took the tools out to the carport, had it apart and back together in about 1h 45m! wasnt a race i know, just was that easy knowing what i needed to do. The bolts were loose on the sub, fixed the rattle... sadly something must have fallen down into the sub as i was placing the back panel back in. will try and see if i can blow it out. Thanks again, great guide!!!
 
#142 ·
Hi, new here. Looking to remove the rear deck and found this string. Great information and used to include pictures. Original poster did edit to include a link to where the pdf is hosted but that link no longer seems to work.

(edit: I need five posts before I can link a URL - the original poster moved the pictures to lancer et al )

Is there anywhere else I can go to see these detailed pictures?

Thanks in advance - H2 in NC
 
#143 ·
Basically to remove the rear deck you lower the back seat, pull out the push pins and gently bow the deck up so you can pull the end out from the passenger side C pillar trim. Or you can remove the C pillar trim. Only need to do one side of the C pillar. Behind the ABS plastic plug is a screw. Then there is a push pin clip, push the trim up I think and then take it off. Do the passenger side and also take the screw out of the antenna mount, scrape away the paint for a good ground and reinstall.
 
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