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post #2761 of 3245 Old 09-20-2016
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I'm new to all this, I've always like cars but never knew much about them. I just purchased a 2010 2.0t genesis coupe with 30k miles stick shift. I'm ready to make my first mod aside from my cool air intake, but need some help as far as what should I do first and brands that are good and also if a tuning would be needed after the mod?
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post #2762 of 3245 Old 09-20-2016
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This thread will cover what you need to know about mods, apart from that all you will get is opinions about what other people would do to your car: https://www.gencoupe.com/new-member-s...must-read.html

Additionally this thread is not meant to recommend brands or mods.

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post #2763 of 3245 Old 09-20-2016
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Is it really necessary to have a heat shield on a SRI or CAI? I got a 2.0T 2010.
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post #2764 of 3245 Old 09-20-2016
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Am I dumb? What gives?

This is what I bought Glossy Black Wing Emblem, importshark.com

This is what got
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post #2765 of 3245 Old 09-20-2016 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eyitsjorge View Post
Is it really necessary to have a heat shield on a SRI or CAI? I got a 2.0T 2010.
No.

Quote:
Originally Posted by moroh View Post
Am I dumb? What gives?

This is what I bought Glossy Black Wing Emblem, importshark.com

This is what got
This thread is for you to ask questions that can be answered. If you want to know if you are dumb, then we can probably answer that for you, but I'm guessing that what you really want to do is complain. I would recommend you find another thread to complain in. In the meantime, you should probably contact ImportShark and explain to them what problems you are having. Vendors are not invited to comment on this thread for anything other than offering technical assistance.
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2013 Becketts Black 2.0T R Spec
BTRcc Custom Tuned
310 whp/375 wtq @ 27 PSI Water/meth injected


"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits.

~Albert Einstein
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post #2766 of 3245 Old 09-20-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GenCoupeGeek View Post
No.

This thread is for you to ask questions that can be answered. If you want to know if you are dumb, then we can probably answer that for you, but I'm guessing that what you really want to do is complain. I would recommend you find another thread to complain in. In the meantime, you should probably contact ImportShark and explain to them what problems you are having. Vendors are not invited to comment on this thread for anything other than offering technical assistance.
Sorry Sir. I thought my question would be clear based on the pictures.

Question: To other members who have put new emblems on their vehicles; I seem to have gotten "Art of Speed" stickers that do not line up properly with the emblems I have bought. Did I buy the wrong emblems for my vehicle (2015) or does it seem like I just got some misprinted stickers. I assume they would not require any trimming and should fit right out of the box.

If I did in fact just get misprinted stickers I will indeed contact Import Shark like you suggested and I am sure they will fix my issue. Thank you for the advice, I did not come here to complain. No need for attitude. Sorry for the non informative post.
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post #2767 of 3245 Old 09-20-2016 Thread Starter
Why so serious, Bro?
 
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You got a misprint.

2013 Becketts Black 2.0T R Spec
BTRcc Custom Tuned
310 whp/375 wtq @ 27 PSI Water/meth injected


"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits.

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post #2768 of 3245 Old 09-21-2016
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Here's a silly question...
For those of you with the r2c intake on 13+ 3.8's how on earth do you get the filter off so you can clean it without disassembling the entire thing? Getting it off the heat shield is fine, but there definitely isn't enough room to pull it out of the engine bay or even tilt it down so i can blow it out from inside...
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post #2769 of 3245 Old 09-21-2016
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If it's anything like the Injen, which is not super dissimilar, you will have to disassemble it somewhat to get the filter out, to get my Injen out to clean it I have to disconnect it from the throttle body, and unbolt one side of the heat shield from the body of the car to get it out. There's just not much room over there and they've both made the filter pod as big as they could.

2013 3.8 Track Pearl White
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post #2770 of 3245 Old 09-21-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inertiamonster View Post
If it's anything like the Injen, which is not super dissimilar, you will have to disassemble it somewhat to get the filter out, to get my Injen out to clean it I have to disconnect it from the throttle body, and unbolt one side of the heat shield from the body of the car to get it out. There's just not much room over there and they've both made the filter pod as big as they could.
Ah well, guess that's what it'll have to be.
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post #2771 of 3245 Old 09-23-2016
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How much torque should I apply to exhaust/intake manifold nuts on BK1 2.0? TIA.
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post #2772 of 3245 Old 09-23-2016
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About 38 lb ft., spec is 36.1-39.8.

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post #2773 of 3245 Old 09-23-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MZ777 View Post
How much torque should I apply to exhaust/intake manifold nuts on BK1 2.0? TIA.
From the shop manual:

Intake manifold bolt -- 13.7 ~ 20.2 lb-ft
Intake manifold nut -- 13.7 ~ 20.2 lb-ft
Intake manifold stay bolt -- 13.7 ~ 17.4 lb-ft
Exhaust manifold heat protector bolt -- 13.7 ~ 20.2 lb-ft
Exhaust manifold nut -- 36.1 ~ 39.7 lb-ft
Exhaust manifold stay bolt (M8) -- 18.6 ~ 20.2 lb-ft
Exhaust manifold stay bolt (M10) -- 36.1 ~ 39.8 lb-ft

Last edited by ScottAtlanta82; 09-23-2016 at 11:02 AM. Reason: Easier on the eyes
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post #2774 of 3245 Old 09-23-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inertiamonster View Post
About 38 lb ft., spec is 36.1-39.8.
Damn it, way faster than me on that one! hahaha
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post #2775 of 3245 Old 09-23-2016
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thanks dear dudes

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post #2776 of 3245 Old 09-28-2016
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I am almost done installing my TXS400 turbo but I have yet to figure out how I want to run my MBC. I want to avoid instaboost because I do spend time in traffic, so I do want to have it smooth in first 2 gears. @Snoopy posted a video
where at 1:10 he said to cut the hose in half (the one that connects the wastegate and the solenoid) and simply place the controller in between. Is that what's called a hybrid setup? Will it really do what I am shooting for? I do want to have my solenoids connected for the boost to come smooth at the beginning but on the highway I do want it to stay pretty consistent and let the MBC do the work, since solenoid struggles doing so at higher boost.

P.S. I would ask for clarification under the video but the comments are disabled, so I can't... Please advise.
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post #2777 of 3245 Old 09-28-2016 Thread Starter
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You have to tee that line off because the boost is also used to hold your BOV/BPV shut.... the solenoid is no longer doing the job and the MBC is doing all the work.

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post #2778 of 3245 Old 09-28-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GenCoupeGeek View Post
You have to tee that line off because the boost is also used to hold your BOV/BPV shut.... the solenoid is no longer doing the job and the MBC is doing all the work.
Before I got to my build I had my HKS hooked up to the intake manifold and I had flutter on low boost/speed. It was either not opening on time or did not stay open long enough. I want to try going back to the solenoid/OEM connection and I know that solenoid needs boost reference (compressor side). So, in order to keep both solenoids active, basically what snoop said - one end of the controller still goes to the wastegate actuator and the other one goes to the solenoid (cut current hose in half and put it there in between). Correct?
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post #2779 of 3245 Old 09-28-2016 Thread Starter
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Correct.
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310 whp/375 wtq @ 27 PSI Water/meth injected


"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits.

~Albert Einstein
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post #2780 of 3245 Old 09-28-2016
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There was a question on the FB group the other day asking which fuel additive to use to clean injectors. I had given some thought to this but decided not to answer.

I've been running 50/50 water/meth in my SRT4 which previously had a bad oil burn. I rebuilt the head and fixed the problem, but the pistons still had crap caked on and I wasn't able to get it off with cleaning. So I was expecting the water injection to clean it. After 4 gallons of water the pistons barley had any sign of change. I switched to 20/80 mix and saw a small improvement. I've now been through 2 gallons of 50/50 and the pistons are about 95% clean and the spark plugs look brand new!

So I was thinking about the injector cleaner question and was wondering if instead of using additives like the technron, lucas, etc, if simply running a bottle or two of HEET every other fill up would have a similar effect to what I'm seeing with the WMI. $13 for a bottle of technron additive or $3 for a bottle of HEET.

Thoughts? Would meth in the tank be similar as meth in the intake?

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3.91 Gear Swap, Stage 0.5 head PnP, SFR Custom Tune, 80mm TB, PnP manifolds, J2 headers, Custom H pipe, Ark GRiP + test pipes,
NST pulleys, custom true CAI, bunch of other mods,
Engine leash, Megan trans mount, 235/35/19 (F) 255/35/19 (R) Hankook V12, EBC Yellow pads

Last edited by titan2782; 09-28-2016 at 10:18 AM.
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