So today I woke up, made sure I ate a good breakfast. I tried to get some productive errands done at the front because I knew I was going to work on the T-Gen.
If you are like I am, once I start,..its like,..leave me the F-ck alone. Its work work work unitl I reach a goal marker. Today would be no different.
So I called Jessie a T-kits to give him the tracking of my IM stuff for his SME who is doing the work. It will be in CA on Saturday, he said it would take them about a week. Its the real deal, not some guy with a dremmel.
****Dudes their SME cuts the full plenum in half, does the ENTIRE thing from the inside out, then adjusts it in conjunction wth the riser and the lower IM. True fluid dynamics flow patterning. Synergy,...Tkits collaborators are the best in the buisness. I'm pumped.
So today was about getting to the oil sensor that my H expert told me to replace. It is quite involved labor wise because of where Hyundai chose to put this thing. It literall is buried in the innards of the motor.
I must say it is a joy to have a Master Hyundai tech a text away. Thank you Mattfor all your guidance. Matts the kind of dude who can rattle any torque spec or connector function off the top of his head. He will also give you the sneaky tips which simplify things..........
Step one remove the hard line from the HPFP to the rails. My car had not run for 36 hours, batt was disconntected, there was no fuel pressure,...no squirty !
GDI fuel line nuts 24 ft lbs,..or snug then no more than 1/4 turn with an adj wrench.
Rail bolts 17 ft lbs
LIKE--when you get to the fuel raill removal do the driver side first, use a right angle pry bar insulated with heavy T-rex tape, find the middle of the fuel rail, brace the base agains the lower block, 1/8 arc,....pop! Out come all three injectors. Now repeat on the passenger side. Remove the rail pressure sensor connector AFTER you remove the rail. So the injectors are held in place in deep bowls. At the base of each injector is a viton seal about 1/4 inch deep. The bolt merely hold the rail down once inserted. My injectors were squeaky clean.
Then comes the oil sensor, placed longitudinal, tucked underneath a big ass coolant "pipe" I'll call it. Tight as a frogs asshole. I literally had to make a tool to loosen and replace this sensor. This sensor is rather fragile, the threads are shaped a certain way to make a better seal. You only torque it down until two threads of a pre applied sealant are visible. It also has to be "clocked" just like the one you replace, so you take a pic before you remove the original, then duplicate the install. Thanks again to Matt.
Solution Take a xtra long open ended wrench (from Harbor Freight which I had already). Use my kick ass Makita 5 amp hr batt grinder and grind down the shoulders to fit the clearances. It only took about 20 minutes of grinding to get it just right so it would function like a task made tool.
Here is a two part vid which shows the location of this ridiculous sensor. So guys if your in the neighborhood, get er done. Matt said the falures he did came from 50K to 120K. If you car starts pouring oil into the plenum, its this F-ckers failure....
Here are the vids.