New Car New Build? - Hyundai Genesis Forum
 4Likes
  • 1 Post By bsbullie
  • 1 Post By AKGC
  • 1 Post By RedGen13
  • 1 Post By RedGen13
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 14 Old 10-25-2018 Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
New Car New Build?

Hey guys I just recently bought a 2012 2.0t and looking to build my first track/everyday driver. I’m looking for some good performance mods that will boost my hp with the least amount of cost. I looked around the forums for a while looking for the first few mods to do to my car but nothing that was standing out. Thanks!!
WillThrift is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 14 Old 10-25-2018
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 484
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 174 Post(s)

Real hp increases will cost money.

If looking to truly track it, will need to work on suspension, rims and tires. Again, done right costs money.
Odelagt likes this.
bsbullie is offline  
post #3 of 14 Old 10-25-2018
Senior Member
 
RedGen13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 988
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 147 Post(s)
Garage

Its easier to suggest things if we know your budget. A tune is almost always your best bang for your buck. Start down that path and determine what other mods you can afford or that go along with the tune.

'13 2.0T R-Spec
  • BTR Stage 3 GTX3076 @ 24psi
  • MXP exhaust manifold
  • 3" Custom turbo back
  • Synapse BOV
  • Injen Intake
  • BK1 Intake Manifold
  • 4.18 final drive w/ LSD
  • Snow Performance Stage 2 meth kit
  • Slotted and dimpled rotors
  • Prosport EVO (Boost, Wideband, Oil temp) gauges
  • Wing Badges
  • CF "functional" hood vents
  • Tablet install w/ custom LCD relocation

Made 319whp/356wtq on BTR Stage 2; (Not dyno'd with GTX3076 turbo yet)

'99 Eclipse Fully Built
RedGen13 is offline  
 
post #4 of 14 Old 10-25-2018
Senior Member
 
AKGC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 14,431
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 644 Post(s)

Brake > tires > suspension > weight > structural > power
Odelagt likes this.
AKGC is offline  
post #5 of 14 Old 10-26-2018 Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)

My budget is around 1,500$ currently if that helps. And thanks for the replies so far guys I'm starting to look for new breaks and tires right now hearing that power should come last.
WillThrift is offline  
post #6 of 14 Old 10-26-2018
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 484
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 174 Post(s)

Gonna be tough to get rims and tires for $1500 let alone other mods. For tires, I would go with the Michelin Pilot Sport 4S. Great in dry heat, wet and cold and ride feel abd responsiveness are great. If you are really gonna track it, for strength and weight, you really eantbto go with a rim thats forged aluminum. Thise are gonna run you some bucks though.

For suspension (coils vs springs), depends truly on what you want. Depends how low you want, stiffness, handling etc. If you are seriously gonna track it, KW Var 3s are the best out there (I had the ARK DT-Ps for a year before I ditched them for the KWs). Again, these will eat unto your budget.

For sways, I prefer Whiteline. Despite what some may say, upgrade the end links too.

As you can see, with I tight budget you will need to be very selective in what you do and in what order.
bsbullie is offline  
post #7 of 14 Old 10-26-2018
Senior Member
 
RedGen13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 988
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 147 Post(s)
Garage

Power > Tires > Brakes > Power > Suspension > Structural > Power > Weight

There is no need to go hog wild spending money on tires and brakes and suspension if your initial power goals are modest (say a 50whp bump). The stock components are plenty capable of handling that. You want to enjoy the car though the process rather than be bored with it because you upgraded tires, brakes, and suspension to support a 500whp car while you are still only making 200whp. You can easily start with some power, find out if you are reaching the limits of your handling/stopping and then upgrade those items accordingly. You should always plan out your upgrade path so that you aren't buying parts that will be obsoleted in your future goals.
andbudzi likes this.

'13 2.0T R-Spec
  • BTR Stage 3 GTX3076 @ 24psi
  • MXP exhaust manifold
  • 3" Custom turbo back
  • Synapse BOV
  • Injen Intake
  • BK1 Intake Manifold
  • 4.18 final drive w/ LSD
  • Snow Performance Stage 2 meth kit
  • Slotted and dimpled rotors
  • Prosport EVO (Boost, Wideband, Oil temp) gauges
  • Wing Badges
  • CF "functional" hood vents
  • Tablet install w/ custom LCD relocation

Made 319whp/356wtq on BTR Stage 2; (Not dyno'd with GTX3076 turbo yet)

'99 Eclipse Fully Built
RedGen13 is offline  
post #8 of 14 Old 10-26-2018
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 484
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 174 Post(s)

You have it backwards redgen. Putting power first, above building the car to handle it is the wrong way of doing things. Stock car does nit di well to added power. You want to beef the car and then you can add the power.

The OP wants to track it. The stock drivetrain can be tracked but needs the benefit of an upgraded suspension. This will also benefit with street driving and handling. Once you have the susoension built, you can add the power mods you want, to the limirs you want, and finally the tune.
bsbullie is offline  
post #9 of 14 Old 10-29-2018
Senior Member
 
RedGen13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 988
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 147 Post(s)
Garage

Quote:
Originally Posted by bsbullie View Post
You have it backwards redgen. Putting power first, above building the car to handle it is the wrong way of doing things. Stock car does nit di well to added power. You want to beef the car and then you can add the power.

The OP wants to track it. The stock drivetrain can be tracked but needs the benefit of an upgraded suspension. This will also benefit with street driving and handling. Once you have the susoension built, you can add the power mods you want, to the limirs you want, and finally the tune.
No, I don't. Are you telling me that somehow the stock suspension can somehow handle a 270whp V6 in the BK2, but essentially the same suspension on a 185whp 2.0T BK1 cannot handle a 50whp increase? Did you even read what I wrote?

This guys is asking what he needs to do to make more power and what first mods he needs. Deductive reasoning would lead that he is probably new to modding and track racing as an experienced person wouldn't need to ask such a question. As I said in my previous post " You can easily start with some power, find out if you are reaching the limits of your handling/stopping and then upgrade those items accordingly."
andbudzi likes this.

'13 2.0T R-Spec
  • BTR Stage 3 GTX3076 @ 24psi
  • MXP exhaust manifold
  • 3" Custom turbo back
  • Synapse BOV
  • Injen Intake
  • BK1 Intake Manifold
  • 4.18 final drive w/ LSD
  • Snow Performance Stage 2 meth kit
  • Slotted and dimpled rotors
  • Prosport EVO (Boost, Wideband, Oil temp) gauges
  • Wing Badges
  • CF "functional" hood vents
  • Tablet install w/ custom LCD relocation

Made 319whp/356wtq on BTR Stage 2; (Not dyno'd with GTX3076 turbo yet)

'99 Eclipse Fully Built

Last edited by RedGen13; 10-29-2018 at 09:01 AM.
RedGen13 is offline  
post #10 of 14 Old 10-29-2018
Senior Member
 
AKGC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 14,431
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 644 Post(s)

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedGen13 View Post
Power > Tires > Brakes > Power > Suspension > Structural > Power > Weight

There is no need to go hog wild spending money on tires and brakes and suspension if your initial power goals are modest (say a 50whp bump). The stock components are plenty capable of handling that. You want to enjoy the car though the process rather than be bored with it because you upgraded tires, brakes, and suspension to support a 500whp car while you are still only making 200whp. You can easily start with some power, find out if you are reaching the limits of your handling/stopping and then upgrade those items accordingly. You should always plan out your upgrade path so that you aren't buying parts that will be obsoleted in your future goals.
Tires/wheels - It's the ONLY thing that is putting power to the ground and stopping the car.
ALL the car's motion is done through the tires. Having lighter wheels (or more of the weight moved to the center of rotation) translates to less unspring weight, which means quicker rotation (rate of change in speed).

Brakes - Having better brakes translates to being able to brake later, which translates to better lap times.

Suspension - makes better use of the 2 points mentioned

Structural and weight - This can be done at any point and depending on which racing body is sanctioning an event, you may or may not need to invest in structural components.
But since it's usually for safety and not for rigidity (unless you are dealing with building a 30+ year old car....) I would choose on the side of caution. It could be as simple as a roll bar.

Last edited by AKGC; 10-29-2018 at 09:13 AM.
AKGC is offline  
post #11 of 14 Old 11-03-2018
Senior Member
 
andbudzi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: muskegon, MI
Posts: 1,582
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 447 Post(s)

Bk1 2.0 is very underpowered and has undersized tires, the rest is fine.
For the street - power first. Exhaust and custom tune is needed for best gains on the budget. Intakes are waist of money on turbo.

For track - I would go with lighter and wider rims, and wider tires first to be able to go faster in the turns and save up another 1k for exhaust and custom tune in short future.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

13 Genesis Track - MagnaFlow exhaust, test pipes, midpipes, custom CAI, LW Pulleys, Koning Oversteer rims, Stance coilovers, carbon fiber grill, front lip.

06 Outback 5spd - Winter muel.
14 Explorer 3.5 TT - Kids hauler with 18psi of punch.
03 Tiburon V6 custom T4E turbo - Ex mistress ...
andbudzi is offline  
post #12 of 14 Old 11-04-2018
In Charge of Snacks
 
Odelagt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Orange County, CA(We're broke, too!!!)
Posts: 1,958
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 207 Post(s)

Yeah, I'd agree with priority Brakes/wheels/tires.

While the stock brakes are more capable than the stock tires, they are undersized for the weight of the chassis where serious track use is concerned. Bare minimum I would suggest is a slotted rotor with better cooling. Those features will make up some of the slight deficit in thermal mass. Braided steel lines won't help performance much, but they'll help brake feel(modulation) and response. A set of track pads for sure, and maybe some titanium shims to keep heat out of the calipers. Shims are super expensive, though. Total of $700 to $1,000 if you include titanium shims.

Tires are next, but the only way to get a competitive setup for this chassis is to increase wheel width as well. So you're well north of $2,000, here.

Suspension is as expensive as you can imagine. Personally, I'd have Feal build a set. I've been happy with my BC 2-ways, but I would like to run a true rear coilover. This is anywhere from $1,000ish for Tein & similar to $7,000 for crazy stuff from JRZ. If I had to do it again, I'd have started with a Bilstein B-14(PSS) kit for $1,200.00 With sways and bushings and subframe collars etc. you're looking at a minimum $2,000 here. Pushing $4,000+ for a multi-adjustable coilover as the springing option.

Also, what nobody else has mentioned and I think is crucial in this vehicle for accuracy and predictability, is Drivetrain stabilization. Firm up the engine and transmission and differential mounting. This makes a HUGE difference in the car's behavior. And if you're a handy DIY type it can be accomplished very inexpensively. Look up Megan Engine mounts, Megan transmission mounts, filling the stock engine/trans mounts with higher durometer urethane, same can be done with the rear subframe risers and differential bushings. And when you have money, a one piece driveshaft to eliminate the sloppy rubber links from the factory. Also the stock flywheel can use help or replacement. Everything but the flywheel/clutch and driveshaft can be done for a couple hundred bucks and a lot of sweat equity. Totally worth it, though. And especially recommended before you pop in a short shifter of any kind.

'11 3.8 R-spec
Now trying to build the impossible
Odelagt is offline  
post #13 of 14 Old 11-06-2018
Senior Member
 
AKGC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 14,431
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 644 Post(s)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Odelagt View Post
Yeah, I'd agree with priority Brakes/wheels/tires.

While the stock brakes are more capable than the stock tires, they are undersized for the weight of the chassis where serious track use is concerned. Bare minimum I would suggest is a slotted rotor with better cooling. Those features will make up some of the slight deficit in thermal mass. Braided steel lines won't help performance much, but they'll help brake feel(modulation) and response. A set of track pads for sure, and maybe some titanium shims to keep heat out of the calipers. Shims are super expensive, though. Total of $700 to $1,000 if you include titanium shims.

Tires are next, but the only way to get a competitive setup for this chassis is to increase wheel width as well. So you're well north of $2,000, here.

Suspension is as expensive as you can imagine. Personally, I'd have Feal build a set. I've been happy with my BC 2-ways, but I would like to run a true rear coilover. This is anywhere from $1,000ish for Tein & similar to $7,000 for crazy stuff from JRZ. If I had to do it again, I'd have started with a Bilstein B-14(PSS) kit for $1,200.00 With sways and bushings and subframe collars etc. you're looking at a minimum $2,000 here. Pushing $4,000+ for a multi-adjustable coilover as the springing option.

Also, what nobody else has mentioned and I think is crucial in this vehicle for accuracy and predictability, is Drivetrain stabilization. Firm up the engine and transmission and differential mounting. This makes a HUGE difference in the car's behavior. And if you're a handy DIY type it can be accomplished very inexpensively. Look up Megan Engine mounts, Megan transmission mounts, filling the stock engine/trans mounts with higher durometer urethane, same can be done with the rear subframe risers and differential bushings. And when you have money, a one piece driveshaft to eliminate the sloppy rubber links from the factory. Also the stock flywheel can use help or replacement. Everything but the flywheel/clutch and driveshaft can be done for a couple hundred bucks and a lot of sweat equity. Totally worth it, though. And especially recommended before you pop in a short shifter of any kind.
On the point of braided lines. those aren't 1 time replacements. That's one of those things that needs to be checked every so often. metal pieces and repetitive flexing and all....
AKGC is offline  
post #14 of 14 Old 11-06-2018
In Charge of Snacks
 
Odelagt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Orange County, CA(We're broke, too!!!)
Posts: 1,958
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 207 Post(s)

Regardless of materials, you should be inspecting brake lines with every tire rotation and oil change, though. Just good practice.

'11 3.8 R-spec
Now trying to build the impossible
Odelagt is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Related Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New year new car. New build ! Zhox Media 8 06-03-2016 08:39 AM
Canadian Touring Car - Team Updates + Car Build SGSash Professional Motorsports 144 09-18-2013 10:31 AM
Build your own Headlights - We build them how you want them! GCtuner Chris Exterior 19 11-05-2010 09:03 AM
ARK PERFORMANCE INC: Offical Build Thread : GENESIS COUPE 3.8 TRACK BUILD ARK Performance Media 21 04-23-2010 09:28 AM


Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Hyundai Genesis Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome