Join Date: Oct 2018
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
New Car New Build?
You have it backwards redgen. Putting power first, above building the car to handle it is the wrong way of doing things. Stock car does nit di well to added power. You want to beef the car and then you can add the power.
The OP wants to track it. The stock drivetrain can be tracked but needs the benefit of an upgraded suspension. This will also benefit with street driving and handling. Once you have the susoension built, you can add the power mods you want, to the limirs you want, and finally the tune.
Power > Tires > Brakes > Power > Suspension > Structural > Power > Weight
There is no need to go hog wild spending money on tires and brakes and suspension if your initial power goals are modest (say a 50whp bump). The stock components are plenty capable of handling that. You want to enjoy the car though the process rather than be bored with it because you upgraded tires, brakes, and suspension to support a 500whp car while you are still only making 200whp. You can easily start with some power, find out if you are reaching the limits of your handling/stopping and then upgrade those items accordingly. You should always plan out your upgrade path so that you aren't buying parts that will be obsoleted in your future goals.
Yeah, I'd agree with priority Brakes/wheels/tires.
While the stock brakes are more capable than the stock tires, they are undersized for the weight of the chassis where serious track use is concerned. Bare minimum I would suggest is a slotted rotor with better cooling. Those features will make up some of the slight deficit in thermal mass. Braided steel lines won't help performance much, but they'll help brake feel(modulation) and response. A set of track pads for sure, and maybe some titanium shims to keep heat out of the calipers. Shims are super expensive, though. Total of $700 to $1,000 if you include titanium shims.
Tires are next, but the only way to get a competitive setup for this chassis is to increase wheel width as well. So you're well north of $2,000, here.
Suspension is as expensive as you can imagine. Personally, I'd have Feal build a set. I've been happy with my BC 2-ways, but I would like to run a true rear coilover. This is anywhere from $1,000ish for Tein & similar to $7,000 for crazy stuff from JRZ. If I had to do it again, I'd have started with a Bilstein B-14(PSS) kit for $1,200.00 With sways and bushings and subframe collars etc. you're looking at a minimum $2,000 here. Pushing $4,000+ for a multi-adjustable coilover as the springing option.
Also, what nobody else has mentioned and I think is crucial in this vehicle for accuracy and predictability, is Drivetrain stabilization. Firm up the engine and transmission and differential mounting. This makes a HUGE difference in the car's behavior. And if you're a handy DIY type it can be accomplished very inexpensively. Look up Megan Engine mounts, Megan transmission mounts, filling the stock engine/trans mounts with higher durometer urethane, same can be done with the rear subframe risers and differential bushings. And when you have money, a one piece driveshaft to eliminate the sloppy rubber links from the factory. Also the stock flywheel can use help or replacement. Everything but the flywheel/clutch and driveshaft can be done for a couple hundred bucks and a lot of sweat equity. Totally worth it, though. And especially recommended before you pop in a short shifter of any kind.
|Thread||Thread Starter||Forum||Replies||Last Post|
|New year new car. New build !||Zhox||Media||8||06-03-2016 08:39 AM|
|Canadian Touring Car - Team Updates + Car Build||SGSash||Professional Motorsports||144||09-18-2013 10:31 AM|
|Build your own Headlights - We build them how you want them!||GCtuner Chris||Exterior||19||11-05-2010 09:03 AM|
|ARK PERFORMANCE INC: Offical Build Thread : GENESIS COUPE 3.8 TRACK BUILD||ARK Performance||Media||21||04-23-2010 09:28 AM|