Tracking the 3.8 R spec - Hyundai Genesis Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 4 Old 1 Week Ago Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
Tracking the 3.8 R spec

Hi all I recently purchased a 2011 3.8 R-spec specifically for track use. I am just wondering what the best bang for the buck track mods would be..I want to focus strictly on handling/braking. (It does have the brembos) NO engine mods. My budget is about 3-4K obviously tires are critical, is anyone running 18x9.5 wheels in the front and 18x10.5 rear? Thanks!
hfishbein is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 4 Old 1 Week Ago
Site Sponsor
 
CARiD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Cranbury, NJ
Posts: 962
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)

Welcome to the forum and congrats on your purchase! Post some pictures when you get a chance. Lots of very informed members on here with a wealth of information, so you've come to the right place. Have fun surfing around!


Hyundai Genesis http://www.carid.com/hyundai-genesis-coupe-accessories/

Call Toll Free: 800.505.3274 | Facebook | Twitter | YouTube
CARiD is offline  
post #3 of 4 Old 1 Week Ago
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)

Welcome

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
jalv91 is offline  
 
post #4 of 4 Old 1 Week Ago
Reader of many threads
 
TKJode's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Toronto, ON
Posts: 1,420
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 206 Post(s)
Garage

Welcome, and having tracked a 2010 3.8 Track a bunch of times, I'll throw down some advice:

You want to do handling/braking first, that's a great start - I assume you'll figure out your tire choice as per your preferences.

The first weak point is going to be the pads - I don't know how hard you can drive, but EBC Yellow or anything more aggressive work great on the track. I did Hawk Semi-Metallic for a while and they were amazing.

The stock rotors are good and I've stuck with Stoptech slotted as replacements. If you don't plan to ever drive in the wet, Stoptech or Brembo blanks are more than adequate.

The moment you're on good pads, you're going to notice brake fade.... probably within the first 3-4 hot laps on a warm day. If you want better longevity out of your brakes, some good high temp brake fluid is a MUST. SS lines are OK but not neccessary, but they do stiffen up the pedal and make harder stops a little easier to feel the limit of grip.

Not much more on brakes you need to worry about ... a few minor upgrades and they're good (at least for me) for consistent 20+ HARD laps.

On the handling front, you'll see in the 2008-2012 suspension section some mentions of how lowering the car is counter productive to the steering control arms / front suspension geometry. Keep that in mind and either look into buying aftermarket that has better geometry and behavriour at lower ride heights, or compensate with an aggressive front alignment (as I have made do with)

For coils/dampers - Bilstein's adjustable dampers are worth the cash if you are serious about dialing in the behaviour of your suspension. PartsShopMax are popular and 1-way adjustable - I have these and find only the 3/4 to stiffest damping settings are usable... great for track, rough on the road.

There are lots of folks running 9.5F 10.5R - look for something with a 22-25 offset and you're good to go, just make sure they're confirmed to clear Brembo calipers.

Sway bars will reduce your body roll but if set too tight in front they will induce more understeer than stock. Keeping your rear too tight will also make the front end push while simultaneously making the rear act like a boat anchor. As always, adjustable is better than static - I went with Stillen adjustable and went with a mid-point stiffness in front, and softest in rear. I also picked up PowerGrid adjustable swaybar endlinks to mate up with my newer coils and dialed up the preload so there's no swaybar slop.

For alignment, to each their own, but if you're dropping on stock front end steering components, I've seen recommended dialing in extra camber in the front... I run -2.6 up front with 0.0 toe and a full 8 degrees caster. The steering feel is heavier than stock but turn in is instantaneous compared to stock sloppiness and the extra camber lets the stiffer suspension on the heavy nose dig in without leaning the tire over on sharper corners. This comes at the cost of inner-tire wear longevity, but my rears go well before my fronts so I don't really mind. In the rear I've tried a smidge of positive toe with mostly straight up & down 1.0 degree camber and eventually settled on 0.0 toe in the rear as well. Some drivers want the oversteer on throttle, I like it a little more neutral but tail happy when I really demand it.

Dropping weight in the front is huge for neutralizing understeer - lighter battery, lighter exhaust, lighter headers (if you're running track-only) all help incrementally. A nice aftermarket rad will help keep coolant temps down - especially useful if you're going to run distilled water instead of coolant. If you run really hard in hot climates, aftermarket oil cooler helps a lot too.

Getting out of handling now - some stuff that didn't make me faster but made me enjoy the car more:
Buttoning everything down: Engine mounts, shifter bushings, transmission mount and differential mounts will help with the high RPM shifting, prevent gear lockout, and just feels so nice.
Track Day Diagnostics - I run Torque with a preconfigured set of audible/voice alerts if my coolant, cat, etc. ANYTHING happens to go to crap, and I leave my audio on phone bluetooth and crank it so I can hear it. I've had one hot day where the coolant creeped up higher than I wanted and got the warning through the radio before anything happened... feels like a spaceship and can save you some heartache

Lots of people here who have done far more than me (eg. the steering components/arms stuff) that can chime in, take a look in the suspension section on any topic and you'll find lots of folks testing stuff and sharing their experiences. Good luck on the build, take your time and research and always keep in mind the characteristics of how you want the car to drive and build to that, not to someone else's opinion on how it should handle.

2010 Silverstone 380GT
TKJode is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Hyundai Genesis Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome