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Thread: Transmission Fluid and Rear Differential Fluid Change Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
04-24-2019 03:55 PM
KingOfNines Always best to remove the fill plug before draining, as not to cause a vacuum and actually get it stuck inside the case and have to be drilled. Happened once to me when I was working at Valvoline and never again will I crack a drain plug without being 100% sure there isn't a fill plug somewhere

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
01-08-2019 02:12 PM
MisaBlackBird So you used the same oil for the transmission and the rear differential?
06-28-2017 08:43 AM
wmunn
Quote:
Originally Posted by boosted1g View Post
Quick Question.

For those of us with R-Spec/Track models with factory LSD: is Redline 75w90 still the recommended oil? Is it fine right out of bottle or need any other additives put in?
That is what I used on mine, it worked great. not a lick of trouble with it. Ran it on that fluid for 60,000 miles with zero issues.
06-28-2017 08:01 AM
boosted1g Quick Question.

For those of us with R-Spec/Track models with factory LSD: is Redline 75w90 still the recommended oil? Is it fine right out of bottle or need any other additives put in?
05-08-2016 05:24 PM
twopointfivebar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deteriorated View Post
I've had my 2014 2.0T for almost 2 years now, and of late the shifting has become a little more sticky in 2nd gear particularly, as well as more notchy upshifting into 2nd and 3rd gears. Hopefully I'll see improvement on this by swapping the fluids to the Redline oils.

Seems like the only piece of information still missing in this guide are the torque values to be used:

Manual Transmission (per the shop manual):
Drain Plug - 43.4 - 57.8 lb-ft
Filler Plug - 43.4 - 57.8 lb-ft

Differential:
Drain Plug - ??
Filler Plug - ??

I would assume that the torques for the differential drain and filler plugs would be the same so long as the bolt sizes are the same. I checked the shop manual for the 2.0T (2014) for even just changing the differential fluid, and this information seems to be completely missing.

According to the service manual, it is the following:

Differential:
Drain Plug - 36.1 to 50.6 lb-ft
Filler Plug - 36.1 to 50.6 lb-ft

01-30-2016 05:05 PM
Deteriorated
Bolt torques

I've had my 2014 2.0T for almost 2 years now, and of late the shifting has become a little more sticky in 2nd gear particularly, as well as more notchy upshifting into 2nd and 3rd gears. Hopefully I'll see improvement on this by swapping the fluids to the Redline oils.

Seems like the only piece of information still missing in this guide are the torque values to be used:

Manual Transmission (per the shop manual):
Drain Plug - 43.4 - 57.8 lb-ft
Filler Plug - 43.4 - 57.8 lb-ft

Differential:
Drain Plug - ??
Filler Plug - ??

I would assume that the torques for the differential drain and filler plugs would be the same so long as the bolt sizes are the same. I checked the shop manual for the 2.0T (2014) for even just changing the differential fluid, and this information seems to be completely missing.
06-07-2015 08:42 AM
Red Raspberry FWIW you can change the trans fluid by just jacking up the front. Taking the plugs out and then lower in the car. Once drained you can jack it up again, put in the drain plug then lower and fill from the top with a hose and a funnel. Then put in the fill plug from top.

For the diff you can do the same procedure. There is a rubber plug in the trunk with some wires going through it on the left side of the spare tire well. This can be popped out and a hose ran down it into the diff fill hole too .
06-07-2015 08:09 AM
wmunn I just went through this process yesterday on my 2013. I am at 42,000 miles, and I went with redline synthetic fluids for mine,
MT85 for the trans, and 75W90 gear oil for the differential. I ordered 3 quarts of trans fluid, and 2 quarts of gear oil. This was an adequate amount of fluid to complete both changes in full. I immediately noticed better / smoother shifting in the transmission.

NOTE: While you have it up on stands, this is a good time to check the bolts for tightness on the rear diff mount, chassis bolts, check condition of exhaust, inspect the boots on the rear axle shafts. check driveshaft for problems, check lower ball joints on the front etc....


While I had it up on stands, I also changed the engine oil and filter. Also installed a new cabin air filter as well.

Last weekend I did the brake fluid flush and fill, and new brake pads on the front.

Next up on the list will be engine coolant..........
05-29-2015 02:20 PM
mashimaroya
Quote:
Originally Posted by bemedicine View Post
Couple questions I'm mechanically inclined on dirtbikes not so much cars would this be easy for me to do I've only done an oil change previously lol also what's the torque on the bolts 7lbs? A local shop said they'd do it for $120 should I just save my money and DIY?
I was pretty unsure of doing this by myself but I went ahead and did it 2 weeks ago and it was no problem at all! Knowing what I know now, I would never ever recommend anyone to pay $120 to have someone do this for you(Unless you are really, really, really bad with your hands). Just make sure your car is secure on the jackstands before starting to work underneath it.

If you've had the pleasure of jacking your car-up atleast once already this should be no problem as long as you know where to locate the front jack point(it is hidden by a plastic shield and I had to remove to locate it the first time).

Before doing this I recommend you get all the proper gaskets from your local hyundai parts shop in case you plan on flushing(the gaskets can be reused but if you want a proper seal get it in case).

In short, this was a pretty easy job. Just make sure you have the following:
  • Sockets listed above.
  • Torque wrench if you want exact tightening measure
  • Jack
  • Jackstands
  • Fluid Pump(local auto store will have this)
  • Oil drain pan
  • New Gaskets from your local dealer
  • Your new tranny + diff fluid (Be sure to get double the quantity if you plan on doing a flush)
  • (anything else I may have forgot?)

Hope this helps. Good Luck!
05-29-2015 01:11 PM
bemedicine Couple questions I'm mechanically inclined on dirtbikes not so much cars would this be easy for me to do I've only done an oil change previously lol also what's the torque on the bolts 7lbs? A local shop said they'd do it for $120 should I just save my money and DIY?
05-18-2015 06:01 PM
PeanutButter lol I tried that along with cranking on it with a large ratchet, heating it with a torch and several other things....eventually I rounded the bolt head from cranking on it so much. I eventually bought a bolt extractor socket attachments and removed my exhaust pipe so i could get my impact in line with it. The impact used with the extractors got it out......crazy that the bolts to separate my transmission came off easier that that. In fact out of all the bolts I have removed from my car that was the toughest one to remove.
05-18-2015 03:38 PM
glasses81 Use a wrench, put the closed end on the bolt, hold it in place about the middle and use a rubber hammer on the open end. Just take a few whacks and you should be able to hammer it loose.
05-17-2015 07:11 PM
PeanutButter So the fill plug on mine is IMPOSSIBLE to get off....I mean its like the incredible hulk put it on. Any ideas on how to get it off?
02-08-2015 10:21 AM
true2uroots This DIY helped me alot thanks!!
01-02-2014 11:47 AM
cris90
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmy C View Post
I have not had any problems with gear box shifting ,even today at -25 C with what ever Hyundai has in it .
the problem with the trans isn't directly related to the trans fluid, the ger box itself, it's the assembly prosses. Because of cheap assembly by un trained works, you have inconsistency in the transmission. Some come out 100% perfect, others come out like crap.
01-02-2014 10:43 AM
Astrick117
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmy C View Post
I have not had any problems with gear box shifting ,even today at -25 C with what ever Hyundai has in it .
I have a 2010 3.8, so it may be different in the 2012 2.0's...glad you don't have the same issues regardless
01-02-2014 10:33 AM
Jimmy C I have not had any problems with gear box shifting ,even today at -25 C with what ever Hyundai has in it .
01-02-2014 10:21 AM
Astrick117
Quote:
Originally Posted by solarius View Post
did you notice a difference? The dealer was unwilling to change it out for me saying it has a lifetime use. I am not sure if I need it yet..
Yea, I still have a few issues shifting in and out of 1st/ 2nd when it is below freezing temps, but once it warms up even a little, it feels much better than it did before the change.
12-30-2013 09:22 AM
cris90
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmy C View Post
All good ,nice write up I was getting bored and wanting to do this .I'm at only 20kms,just to get rid of break in crud.
you wanna change the transmission fluid ASAP, hyundai fluid, even though it isn't bad, isn't good.

Diaqueen so far is the only oil thats been used multiple times to have good results and no bad results
12-30-2013 09:16 AM
solarius did you notice a difference? The dealer was unwilling to change it out for me saying it has a lifetime use. I am not sure if I need it yet..
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