|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|04-24-2019 04:55 PM|
Always best to remove the fill plug before draining, as not to cause a vacuum and actually get it stuck inside the case and have to be drilled. Happened once to me when I was working at Valvoline and never again will I crack a drain plug without being 100% sure there isn't a fill plug somewhere
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|01-08-2019 03:12 PM|
|MisaBlackBird||So you used the same oil for the transmission and the rear differential?|
|06-28-2017 09:43 AM|
|06-28-2017 09:01 AM|
For those of us with R-Spec/Track models with factory LSD: is Redline 75w90 still the recommended oil? Is it fine right out of bottle or need any other additives put in?
|05-08-2016 06:24 PM|
According to the service manual, it is the following:
Drain Plug - 36.1 to 50.6 lb-ft
Filler Plug - 36.1 to 50.6 lb-ft
|01-30-2016 06:05 PM|
I've had my 2014 2.0T for almost 2 years now, and of late the shifting has become a little more sticky in 2nd gear particularly, as well as more notchy upshifting into 2nd and 3rd gears. Hopefully I'll see improvement on this by swapping the fluids to the Redline oils.
Seems like the only piece of information still missing in this guide are the torque values to be used:
Manual Transmission (per the shop manual):
Drain Plug - 43.4 - 57.8 lb-ft
Filler Plug - 43.4 - 57.8 lb-ft
Drain Plug - ??
Filler Plug - ??
I would assume that the torques for the differential drain and filler plugs would be the same so long as the bolt sizes are the same. I checked the shop manual for the 2.0T (2014) for even just changing the differential fluid, and this information seems to be completely missing.
|06-07-2015 09:42 AM|
FWIW you can change the trans fluid by just jacking up the front. Taking the plugs out and then lower in the car. Once drained you can jack it up again, put in the drain plug then lower and fill from the top with a hose and a funnel. Then put in the fill plug from top.
For the diff you can do the same procedure. There is a rubber plug in the trunk with some wires going through it on the left side of the spare tire well. This can be popped out and a hose ran down it into the diff fill hole too .
|06-07-2015 09:09 AM|
I just went through this process yesterday on my 2013. I am at 42,000 miles, and I went with redline synthetic fluids for mine,
MT85 for the trans, and 75W90 gear oil for the differential. I ordered 3 quarts of trans fluid, and 2 quarts of gear oil. This was an adequate amount of fluid to complete both changes in full. I immediately noticed better / smoother shifting in the transmission.
NOTE: While you have it up on stands, this is a good time to check the bolts for tightness on the rear diff mount, chassis bolts, check condition of exhaust, inspect the boots on the rear axle shafts. check driveshaft for problems, check lower ball joints on the front etc....
While I had it up on stands, I also changed the engine oil and filter. Also installed a new cabin air filter as well.
Last weekend I did the brake fluid flush and fill, and new brake pads on the front.
Next up on the list will be engine coolant..........
|05-29-2015 03:20 PM|
If you've had the pleasure of jacking your car-up atleast once already this should be no problem as long as you know where to locate the front jack point(it is hidden by a plastic shield and I had to remove to locate it the first time).
Before doing this I recommend you get all the proper gaskets from your local hyundai parts shop in case you plan on flushing(the gaskets can be reused but if you want a proper seal get it in case).
In short, this was a pretty easy job. Just make sure you have the following:
Hope this helps. Good Luck!
|05-29-2015 02:11 PM|
|bemedicine||Couple questions I'm mechanically inclined on dirtbikes not so much cars would this be easy for me to do I've only done an oil change previously lol also what's the torque on the bolts 7lbs? A local shop said they'd do it for $120 should I just save my money and DIY?|
|05-18-2015 07:01 PM|
|PeanutButter||lol I tried that along with cranking on it with a large ratchet, heating it with a torch and several other things....eventually I rounded the bolt head from cranking on it so much. I eventually bought a bolt extractor socket attachments and removed my exhaust pipe so i could get my impact in line with it. The impact used with the extractors got it out......crazy that the bolts to separate my transmission came off easier that that. In fact out of all the bolts I have removed from my car that was the toughest one to remove.|
|05-18-2015 04:38 PM|
|glasses81||Use a wrench, put the closed end on the bolt, hold it in place about the middle and use a rubber hammer on the open end. Just take a few whacks and you should be able to hammer it loose.|
|05-17-2015 08:11 PM|
|PeanutButter||So the fill plug on mine is IMPOSSIBLE to get off....I mean its like the incredible hulk put it on. Any ideas on how to get it off?|
|02-08-2015 11:21 AM|
|true2uroots||This DIY helped me alot thanks!!|
|01-02-2014 12:47 PM|
|01-02-2014 11:43 AM|
|01-02-2014 11:33 AM|
|Jimmy C||I have not had any problems with gear box shifting ,even today at -25 C with what ever Hyundai has in it .|
|01-02-2014 11:21 AM|
|12-30-2013 10:22 AM|
Diaqueen so far is the only oil thats been used multiple times to have good results and no bad results
|12-30-2013 10:16 AM|
|solarius||did you notice a difference? The dealer was unwilling to change it out for me saying it has a lifetime use. I am not sure if I need it yet..|
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