|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|10-09-2014 03:18 PM|
so I had a similar situation with another car.
pulled in enough water at IDLE to stall the car, no real damage.
the problem was water was sitting in the intake manifold, so as soon as I got to a certain rpm it would pull in enough air to pull in some of that water causing it to stall.
first thing I did was take out the spark plugs, remove the fuel pump/injector relay and try to start the car. any water in the cylinders should shoot out through the holes where the plugs go.
next I disassembled all of the intake piping. dumped the water out (there was a ton sitting in the lowest parts) took time to clean the pipes of oil aswell, had no catch cans.
ran like it never happened afterwords.
the thing is, you have a lot of piping for the water to be settling in. that could be why it is able to rev higher now, you've slowly been sucking the water out of the pipes.
just a guess, good luck!
|10-02-2014 01:21 PM|
|AMBCoupe||@Red raspberry ...the US has some pretty damn good craft breweries too!|
|10-02-2014 10:46 AM|
|Red Raspberry||Canada has good beer though....|
|10-02-2014 10:05 AM|
|ControlFreak||Amazing..in Canada, if you tried to claim something like that under your car insurance they would say "non OEM part installed, caused or contributed to damage" - no coverage. Period. Personally I would agree with them on this point too.|
|10-02-2014 04:34 AM|
|10-02-2014 01:53 AM|
|bootsonground||You don't have to have a complete lock up, every spoonful of water in a cylinder raises the compression rate. As little as 2 ounces of water can have a negative affect. This problem happened during a little splash, so that says that yes water is the contributing factor.|
|10-01-2014 06:15 PM|
|10-01-2014 05:39 PM|
So for an update, I did decide to go the insurance route. They are stopping by on Friday to check my car out.
|10-01-2014 12:14 PM|
If you didn't have the CAI, I bet you would of been fine. I am guessing hydro lock.
Curious did any water flow over the door sills?
|10-01-2014 08:38 AM|
|Red Raspberry||And this would be a comprehensive claim. In Illinois this does not raise the rates.|
|10-01-2014 08:16 AM|
I agree with Red. A warranty covers either an incorrectly manufactured part (defective) or a failure in workmanship. It does not cover a bad day or in other cases user error. Do a compression check and if there is damage contact your insurance company. That is who covers this.
Example, I lost my A/C a couple of years ago. No big deal, it must be a warranty item, right? Nope. A critter got under my car and decided to eat some wires. About $400 later my wiring was fixed and my warranty was kept intact. Not a Hyundai issue. They did tell me that I may have an insurance claim. Prior to completing their diagnosis, the service manager called me and told me to inform my insurance company of a possible claim. He said if the main wiring harness is sufficiently damaged they will hand the car over to my insurance company as a potential total loss. I lucked out and everything worked out fine. Calling your insurance agent will not raise your rates...only the claim will.
|09-30-2014 03:26 PM|
Problem is that a detailed diagnosis hasn't been done and he keeps trying to run the engine till it runs normal. Costs of repair is climbing, he needs to stop at this point and file a claim. The longer he waits the more the insurance company can distance themselves from it.
Being a turbo, the turbo would have vaporized the water as it sucked it in and then it would have condensed in the after cooler. The after cooler needs to have the hoses pulled and drained before trying to run the engine clean. He is still getting smoke and unburnt fuel smell. He still needs a compression test after making sure there is no water in the intake system. If one or more cylinders has a compression problem things can get worse.
I have to remove after coolers from Hino trucks to have cleaned or, replaced. Hino has a problem with internal oil blow by in the turbo and the cooler slowly fills and then runs like crap. And baked oil is practically imposable to clean out.
Water will eventually clear out but at a cost if not drained out.
|09-30-2014 01:30 PM|
|Red Raspberry||This should be an insurance issue not warranty.|
|09-30-2014 09:48 AM|
|09-30-2014 08:03 AM|
Thanks a bunch for the help so far. This incident will be the reason I switch to a short ram. But as for an update, it idles fine now and revs normal up to 4k. That's when my btrcc launch control kicks in and it doesn't seem to like that and struggles to not give out but manages to drop back to idle fine. Now when I hit 4k I get a lot of blackish water come from my exhaust and alot of white smoke still. Also the strong gas smell remains. I'm thinking the blackish water is just from my exhaust going under water when I hit the puddle.
Also, I have all the supporting mods for a stage 3. So intercooler injectors turbo back exhaust bigger turbo. As far as warranty goes, I think I'm screwed. Or if I wanted to go that route, how should I approach it?
|09-29-2014 03:06 PM|
|09-29-2014 03:01 PM|
Main reason why I will always keep stock air box on my car in Miami.
1994 a truck passed me and sent a tidal wave over my car, I dragged it the quarter mile to my shop and pulled all plugs and cranked it, watched water shooting out the plug holes like rockets. First thing to do after a water stall is not even try to crank the engine until all plugs are pulled first. Doesn't mean you won't have some damage already, but odds are in your favor if you alleviate the pressure first.
This tid-bit of info will not help you much at this point but hopefully others will learn from this incident.
In your case a bent rod is almost a guarantee, if you have unburnt fuel and white smoke after large amount of water intrusion the likely issue is lack of compression, no or not enough compression and the spark plug will not be able if at all detonate the air fuel mixture. A compression test will let you know how many cylinders are affected and give you a ball park on the running cost to get it back and running. Long run it will be cheaper given you have not mentioned any noise of knocking and banging as well as no pool of oil under the car which tells me the rod hasn't tried to go thru the side of the block. As for the 3.8s, they are all aluminum. Avoiding this situation is a must for damage to an all aluminum engine is a guarantee to be a heck of a lot worse.
You should still call your insurance agent, better to find out if your insurance will cover it before doling out the dollars.
|09-29-2014 01:53 PM|
I agree CAI is just not worth it, after driving through some big puddles during some down poors recently, I am looking at a SRI now. And yes you got very lucky lol.
|09-29-2014 01:41 PM|
Went through this exact scenario with my 3.8 2 years ago in florida as well , I hydrolocked my motor and threw a rod like the picture above. CAI are just not worth the risk . For me , Insurance covered my motor because there were about 100 other cars of all different makes and models that got damaged during this flood due to poor drainage in the city . I Defiantly got lucky.
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|09-29-2014 01:23 PM|
|nschultz||Which mods do you have other than tune and CAI? If that's it, swap it back to stock and take it to the dealer...|
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