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  Topic Review (Newest First)
05-06-2015 07:22 AM
edman24 Yah like when my headgasket spit out one of its corners and I had nothing on the car but an exhaust. It did it on startup too, I wasnt even driving when it happened. The service manager tried to convince me it was my fault and that I would have to pay for damages because an exhaust increases the flow, thereby increasing the boost to some insane level, and in turn blowing the factory headgasket because apparently the factory headgasket can not withstand the true power that is contained in a 3 inch exhaust.

I told him to turn around and ask one of his mechanics if they had ever seen or heard of a car blowing a headgasket by changing the exhaust.

He said I will need to call out an engineer to come evaluate this and could potentially drag this out for a while..

I said I would love to speak with someone who knows what hes talking about, please have him come so we can ask him this question too...

Service Manager went and fixed my car perfectly, even threw in new plugs and a whole new head casting because they dont machine things anymore..

Never had the issue again, complete freak occurrence but relevant here.. I think it is called the Magnuson-Moss Act...
04-30-2015 11:28 AM
Oryan There's a federal law prohibiting automakers from just flat out voiding your warranty for modding your car. They have to prove your mod directly caused the failure in order to void THAT particular warranty case. Ex: They can't blame your radio crapping itself because you installed an intake. They have a lot stronger case to void your warranty work if that same intake is on the car and your manifold grenades, or something like that.
04-28-2015 09:22 AM
guybo Doing both would be more thorough. The reflective tape only goes so far, insulation only goes so far on the cold side stuff too. Wraping everything would be the best way. However, is it worth the possibility of damaging components? I don't think so. It's a compromise to do the cold side only.

I don't know if the fuel lines get hot- if they do, it'd be like the TB coolant bypass. It's not a problem per se, but can it be better? That's what I'd like to know. It doesn't make a huge difference, but a couple degrees is a couple degrees and works toward the greater goal of incremental SAFE gains that don't affect the warranty.
04-28-2015 08:54 AM
nyangineer The nice thing about insulation is that not only does it work to keep heat in but it can also keep heat out. Temperatures under the hood won't matter if all of the important cold surfaces are insulated properly. Exhaust manifold glowing red hot? Who cares if everything else is insulated and is covered by reflective film. I don't see anything good coming from insulating the exhaust manifold, nothing at all.
04-28-2015 05:43 AM
Red Raspberry
Quote:
Originally Posted by guybo View Post
Did you get a chance to measure temps of the fuel lines, RR?
No I don't drive the car much. And by the time you stopped to measure the readings would be skewed. I would guess as long as the car is moving or under full power it doesn't heat up due to the flow of cool fuel, only at idle would there be heat soak. No return setup also keeps the fuel cooler than if it had the returned type system.. I have a SS braided line.

But it would be simple to wrap in insulation if you think it is a problem.
04-28-2015 05:18 AM
guybo Did you get a chance to measure temps of the fuel lines, RR?
04-28-2015 04:21 AM
Red Raspberry I had a turbo blanket for a couple of years. They will fall apart after a while.
04-27-2015 06:12 PM
guybo If I ever get around to removing the front bumper, I want to cut a hole on the fog light cover and run some dryer vent tubing from that hole up to under the cone filter through the hole where the wiper fluid bottle was after I remove that too. I see that sort of tubing run in race cars to the brakes all the time on TV. I'll just channel mine up a little.

But I don't want to remove the bumper, I know I won't be able to get it back on with perfect fitment again. I'd need help from someone with more patience than I have.
04-27-2015 04:10 PM
GenBrah yeah its a toss up, some will crack, some wont. Best bang for your buck would be a turbo blanket. I don't know who makes a good one, but I'm positive they can be sourced. I live in Florida too, space coast, I stayed away from any of the SRI or CAI because the piping is usually a thin aluminum. Stock box with a drop in, and a silicon inlet is the way I went. I learned my lessen with heat and Florida with my old wrx. Interested to see what else you do and the turn out though, keep it up!
04-27-2015 03:32 PM
Red Raspberry Here's some reading for you.

https://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t-discuss...ood-temps.html
04-27-2015 03:09 PM
guybo I did the bypass and that helps IAT also (Florida )

It's been an incremental thing for me. A couple degrees cooler here, faster cool down there, slower heat up here, a couple degrees there. I'm still working on it and trying to figure out how to squeeze more efficiency out of the engine in it's nearly stock configuration. A CAI (Florida and it's torrential rains are almost a daily thing in the summer) is out of the question.

https://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t-discuss...-manifold.html

First thread after google search. Yeah, early model Gen but I didn't check out the other search results that came up. There were others I think with the late model Gencoupe.

What about the fuel lines? Would that matter at all? @Red Raspberry - can you use your IR thermometer and check the fuel lines in the engine bay and see how hot they are after a hard run? Cooler fuel is denser and packs more punch just like air. In many racing series they test and regulate fuel temps.
04-27-2015 02:19 PM
GenBrah link to any threads of people that have cracked their manifolds or other pieces due to wrapping on the genny? Not asking to be a dick, but just genuinely curious. I did a lot of reading myself on wrapping exhaust items and it seems to be the same reiterated scare tactic of things "could" crack. I don't really care about other cars, only the genny. Heat soak is definitely a big problem with these turbo cars and anything aluminum. You should also try the TB coolant bypass to bring down IAT even further (only if your car wont see freezing temps)
04-27-2015 01:52 PM
guybo I've read a lot about heat wrapping the turbo and exhaust of Genny's and read some nightmare stories of cracked welds. That's why I decided to wrap the stuff I want to keep cold and leave the hot stuff open to radiate off heat. nyangineer is dead on- I am too conservative with my efforts to go all-out. I think cold side wrapping is a good balance for me of controlling heat but avoiding possible problems.

I've seen turbo blankets for the stock Genny turbo for around $80 online. Wrapping the exhaust wouldn't be all that hard either. It's just for me that the benefit is outweighed by the potential hassle. It's not like a I race or anything- I just like efficiency.

If I could weld, maybe I'd just wrap everything!
04-27-2015 09:48 AM
nyangineer Wrapping your exhaust components may reduce heat transfer to other components but you also affect the rate of cooling of the insulated part vs. not insulated and that can change the metallurgy which may also result in cracking. Instead of insulating the hot components you may want to consider just insulating the stuff you want to keep cool with bulk blanket insulation and finish off with the reflective film.
04-27-2015 09:03 AM
guybo That would make a big difference. Tape is stuck on tightly, but air is a good insulator.
04-27-2015 08:52 AM
Red Raspberry It is not tightly wrapped around the hose so there is some air space between the material and the actual hose. I'll have to dig out my IR sensor to see what the reflective material is radiating out.
04-27-2015 07:40 AM
guybo You don't want to use reflective sleeving on hot piping. It just turns the piping into a radiating heat source unless you have insulated the pipe underneath.

I originally wrapped the hot side IC piping with reflective tape and it INCREASED my IAT. It turned the black silicone into a radiator as the reflective material radiated out the heat from beneath. Use refelctive material on the cold stuff or wrap it with insulating material first.









I'm not sure of the brand that I used. I got it at Advance Auto. The reflective tape is silver, comes on a small roll. the exhaust wrap is right next to it in the same aisle (the exhaust wrap is under the reflective tape on the SRI. The difference in heat soak is dramatic, the SRI aluminum tube only feels warm to the touch, before it was too hot to hold your hand on for more than a few seconds)
04-27-2015 05:42 AM
Red Raspberry Here's a pic.



And here's where I got it back in 7/2012. It can be bought elsewhere with a quick search. I got the 3" originally for the cold IC pipe but used it here instead. 3" was too small for the IC pipe. So a smaller one cam be used.

HEATSHIELD PRODUCTS - 270234 - Thermaflect Sleeve?; 2? id x 3'; [270234] : DBR High Performance, Theres No Such Thing As Too Fast!
04-27-2015 05:29 AM
Sewer Red where did you get it
04-27-2015 05:21 AM
GenBrah Have any pics of it all wrapped curious to what it looks like. Did you use the DEI wrap that is found in most auto stores?
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