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Thread: cp-e 2.0T and V6 Engine Mounts Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
11-10-2011 10:41 AM
LGHTGUY My set of 60 duro have broken in nicely, car feels great.
11-10-2011 10:12 AM
Originally Posted by cp-e View Post
The lower durometer is suited for street use.. the higher is for race and high HP...
What is considered high horsepower for the 2.0t since it only comes stock with 210hp? Dont know which would be better 50 duro or 60, i can take alot of vibration im 17 years old i want it to feel like a race car ahaha.
11-03-2011 07:56 AM
Originally Posted by bradley_it View Post
I have the 60's . It vibrates A good amount but not too bad . I like them and when girls ride in my car they love it . They ask do you have massaging seats ..
haha thanks. I will take the massage chair added bonus into consideration haha
11-02-2011 10:45 PM

I have the 60's . It vibrates A good amount but not too bad . I like them and when girls ride in my car they love it . They ask do you have massaging seats ..
11-02-2011 10:30 PM
Drnockers In the market for mounts. Probably going to buy in the next week. Cant decided between 50 and 60 though. I read the entire thread.....since its been out for some time now. . .. how much of the vibration has gone away for those who bought the 60's? Do they act more like 50/55 now? This car is my DD but i have a reflash, intake, exhaust. so its not a stock car. suggestions? advice?
06-16-2011 04:47 AM
stevefrd28 Well done guys, it looks awesome. Keep up the good work.
05-10-2011 08:53 AM The lower durometer is suited for street use.. the higher is for race and high HP...
05-09-2011 11:49 AM
Phat Korean How much vibration is noticed with the 60? I'm not looking to make insane power....right now. lol. I have nothing to gauge the vibration to cause i have never done motor mounts.
04-11-2011 10:48 PM
socrbob I am still having the vibration problem. There is space under the bolts to the mount, I can pass a thick shim thru the area. Strange but it seems that I am getting more vibration thru the steering wheel than I am from the shifter. Does anyone know of any material to isolate the steering linkage from the frame?
04-11-2011 08:55 PM

double check the drivers side bolt you might have to put 2 - 3 washers like the one it comes with on it too shim it a little.... it was touching the top of the mount
i had to do that with mines and the solved the issue...
04-08-2011 11:16 PM
Gecoupe Nice one
04-04-2011 11:02 AM
LGHTGUY Unfortunately I haven't had the time to try to install again, work has been crazy lately. Hopefully I can get these on soon.
04-02-2011 06:36 PM
socrbob LGHTGUY any progress? I am still having problems trying to track down what ever is causing the droning.
03-10-2011 08:01 PM
LGHTGUY I guess I'll give it another shot just got annoying during install and got fed up.
03-10-2011 07:52 PM
Originally Posted by socrbob View Post
If you have these installed, have you found any way to eliminate the heavy droning at 3200+ rpms. I can not seem to isolate the cause.
To me, the Genesis has some drone around 4,000 RPM with factory mounts and stock exhaust. The cp-e mounts make the drone a good bit louder. Perhaps engine noise getting more coupled to the frame? I no longer think the exhaust is the cause. A louder after-market exhaust may mask the drone but I don't know.

If either of the bolts with the cp-e mounts are too long, it would impact the mounts. The vibration you then get is horrendous. Must be like having a solid mount. It really points out how much vibration the 2.0T has and explains the soft factory mounts. I suggest shorter bolts or extra washers under the bolt head so that the bolts only extend out the bottom of the aluminum puck by one thread - lots of clearance.

For the top bolts on the factory mounts I agree, go from the top with a 3/8" drive socket, multiple lengths of extensions and a good universal joint. On the turbo side, I had to put the u-joint and socket onto the bolt, then attach the extension around the hard lines. Break the bolt loose, remove the socket and then take the bolt out by hand.

I had the cp-e mounts in and out twice so I got pretty decent at it. Getting the steering rack bolts threaded back in is very tough. Overall, not an easy job but with two people and the right tools it can be done.

Having said all of that, I now have an SFR damper on order and will write up a comparison.
03-10-2011 11:07 AM
LGHTGUY The drivers side bolt just seems to be tucked in pretty well, did you have to remove anything from the top to get to the bolts?
03-10-2011 10:48 AM
socrbob I had the best luck getting to the top bolts from above, with a long extension.
03-10-2011 10:25 AM
LGHTGUY I went to install the mounts the other day and it just ended up becoming a pain, any one have tips on install, we found it very difficult to get to the bolts on top to get them out. I don't want to return the mounts but that's what I'm looking at doing right now because I do not want to pay a shop 300+ bucks to install.
03-09-2011 08:57 PM
socrbob I have the correct bolts installed. I checked this and I can slide a fairly thick shim thru the opening between the puck and the housing. Any other suggestions?
03-09-2011 12:23 PM
Originally Posted by cp-e View Post
On the 2.0 there are two different lenghts.. check to see if the passenger side bolt may be touching the bushing housing so then the engine is riding on the alumum.

If thats the case - swap the bolts from driver to pass - as they are differnt lenghts - the shorter bolt goes on the pass.
If that don't work, inspect & measure bolts to confirm they are of the correct length.....a few CP-e engine mount kits got out with the wrong bolts & I had to trim my driver's side bolt .5" in order for it to fit. Since then CP-e has corrected the issue on current shipments & offered to send out the proper hardware to those with this concern. I had already trimmed the bolt & stated it was not necessary in my case. JFYI
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