DIY Flow Bench using the Flow Performance 2.5 kit - Hyundai Genesis Forum
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post #1 of 16 Old 02-06-2015 Thread Starter
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DIY Flow Bench using the Flow Performance 2.5 kit

Here is a link to the kit and specs.
I will be using 2 16gal Rigid shopvacs (Home Depot) with detachable blowers.
The blowers will be chambered individually and the suction source will be combined via 4" Wye. The element itself is 2.5" and the minimum length of the overall element section is 18". The longer you can keep it the more accurate the flow rate will be.

Flow Bench | Flow Performance Flow Bench | Basic 2.5 Kit

I purchased a 60" sink base cabinet from Home Depot and some 3/4" MDF for frame support and top/bottom plates. 3" casters provide mobility.

Top plates are going on. A center section has not been installed yet.


Bottom plates are going on.


Support framing and bottom plate are done.



Monitor arm is mounted with a 17" LED monitor.
Computer will be in the cabinet (if it FITS LOL).


Top is glued on and the bench-top hole is cut through the countertop and the top plate. The bench receptacle will be mounted under the MDF plate and secured with counted-sunk bolts on the top.
A 12"x12"x1" sheet of HDPE will serve as the mounting plate for adapters. 5/16x18 Brass threaded inserts will be put in a 6"x6" square pattern.



The vac source chamber is almost done. A blower will mount on each side of the module and airflow will be tied on the front of the unit for easier pipe routing.


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post #2 of 16 Old 02-06-2015
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Crafty
And subbed to watch the progress continues
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post #3 of 16 Old 02-06-2015 Thread Starter
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More work tonight. Wired up the dual 15A circuits to a duplex in the base and one unswitched (from the switchbox) and one switched each on a separate input.

Here's how one of the blowers will sit.
The other one will sit upside down so they both blow exhaust in the same direction (out back).
I am going to use hvac strapping (metal duct tape) to secure the blower in addition to a large bead of 100% silicone.


The front panel (top in picture) will be where the 4" air line flanges will be attached.
That panel fits without touching the side walls so you can cut the bead and remove the panel if needed for replacement or repairs.


Bench flange attachment from the top.
1/4" hole followed by step bit to create a capture cone in the wood just large enough for the 1/2" hex heads to countersink.



Flange mounted with 5/16" bolts. Only need to snug.
I pulled the heads down about 3/8" and then sealed with silicone.
I used my hand to smear a coat of silicone over the MDF and particle board surfaces in the hole. Don't forget to wipe some around where the flange meets the undersurface of the plate or benchtop.





The HDPE was a bit more problematic than I had hoped. It's pretty soft, even compared to nylon. Still, I managed to get the threaded inserts in for a test. 6x6 pattern with a 4" air flow hole.











Well. they're not all perfectly straight. I didn't use a bolt the first couple of times and ran them in crooked.


Temp install to check flush fit for air flow hole.

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Last edited by Ryengoth; 02-06-2015 at 09:13 PM.
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post #4 of 16 Old 02-08-2015 Thread Starter
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I took off the finger shroud and filter media. It's just going to get filled with dust and no one can stick their fingers inside a sealed chamber.


GAH! The blower is hitting the bench tube and the drawer rails. Well, out goes a drawer!
There's one on the other side anyway for small parts.



Blower seals are slathered with 100% silicone and each one is strapped tight.



4" air source ports are cut and 4" toilet flanges are sealed and screwed onto each chamber.


Plumbing fun now to make it fit with as much of the 2.5" flow element and extension as possible without impeding airflow.



Finished project!


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Here is a quick overview vid.
The initial calibration test and open test is coming up shortly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CLUVFaQHkJI
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Here is the calibration test and initial open run to determine max flow.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q64h_BdmmrQ
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So what was your reasoning for using the giant loop in the system? Just so you could fit the flow element piping? Seems like you could have the pipes run to the right rather than left and have it fit a little neater. Or was it just more trouble to route it that way?

But it's still pretty sick, so great job. If you don't mind me asking, about home much did all this run you? Seems like a great peice of equipment for any car modder.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_Engineer View Post
So what was your reasoning for using the giant loop in the system? Just so you could fit the flow element piping? Seems like you could have the pipes run to the right rather than left and have it fit a little neater. Or was it just more trouble to route it that way?

But it's still pretty sick, so great job. If you don't mind me asking, about home much did all this run you? Seems like a great peice of equipment for any car modder.
The sweeping was to prevent a tight 90 between the flow element and pressure gauge in the bench tube. I can go back and make it a complex 90 setup to fit better but that's too many short 90s IMO from end to end. I'm going to cut the exhaust ports out of the housing on one of the blowers and see if that helps increase flow. I'd like to see 400CFM but with only 2 small blowers that probably won't happen. I could, though, tag another module on the left side of the bench, under the overhang and plumb up 1 more blower for an additional 170 or so CFM but that's another 10A circuit. I am going to load test the blowers and get an accurate current draw before I add another blower.

The parts kit with the alum control valve was around $1750 from Flow Performance. The cabinet and accessories ran about $600. I spent WAY more than that on extra stuff I didn't use as well as tools. You could drop some plywood on the top and use MDF for your mounting plate. Also, instead of tidy power boxes and switches you could just put the blowers on a 20A power strip, plug it into a 20A circuit and just flip the switch on it. The electrical was probably around $150 of the $600.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_Engineer View Post
So what was your reasoning for using the giant loop in the system? Just so you could fit the flow element piping? Seems like you could have the pipes run to the right rather than left and have it fit a little neater. Or was it just more trouble to route it that way?

But it's still pretty sick, so great job. If you don't mind me asking, about home much did all this run you? Seems like a great peice of equipment for any car modder.

OH, and yes the left-to-right loop is to include as much of the element length as possible within the length of the cabinet. The min recommended element length is 18" but for stable results logging longer is better.

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3M blue painters tape.. almost better than duct tape!






G6DJ 3.8 Surge Tank Individual Runners (2 run avg)
#1 - 236.5CFM @ 20.2wc
#2 - 231.5CFM @ 20.4wc
#3 - 225.0CFM @ 21.0wc
#4 - 258.0CFM @ 17.7wc
#5 - 257.5CFM @ 17.5wc
#6 - 256.5CFM @ 17.7wc

it can't flow the runners @ 28wc so I'm going to have run this at a lower test pressure and let it calculate the differential and provide relative CFM based on the lower pressure. The FP1 can do that automatically by changing the flow test mode. I will post results tonight.

I'm looking into building a quad-motor vac module with bare flow-thru motors, but this will do for the time being. Carolina Dyno will be getting this bench so it's up to them what they want to do.

12wc calculated flow up to 600cfm is available with the FP1 and the 2.5 kit.

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Based on mode 0 (calculated flow) here is what I got this time with butyl rubber sealing the TB flange to the adapter and the adapter to the plate. I am still seeing horribly unbalanced flow between each side of the block.

OK, the estimated flow for the whole thing is around 1100cfm.
long runners can flow around 840cfm together
short runners can flow around 725cfm together

Estimated flow for each(3 runs):
#1 273cfm
#2 266cfm
#3 254cfm
#4 320cfm
#5 320cfm
#6 320cfm

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Very cool. Depending on bandwidth, you may be able to take a few IM's here and there and recoup your cost.
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Yup, it's flowed everything from a chopped and ported buick intake manifold to comparing Turbokit's headers to the stock headers. If you can get $100 per test on 3 run averages, you can pay for it in about 100 hours based on 30mins per job. You can get fast with it, but those brass pitot tubes will heat up after the 2nd and 3rd flow if you flow for more than 3 or 4 seconds. You'll notice the pressure fluctate more and the flow values start to drop. Then you have to wait 10-15 minutes for the tubes to cool. I usually watch the pressure and can tell when it's settled within a few seconds of startup. The calculated flow is the most adaptive to small and large spaces but you may not know what pressure the sample tube will settle at, to take the reading and that means a longer flow time. And that means more waiting between flows.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryengoth View Post
Based on mode 0 (calculated flow) here is what I got this time with butyl rubber sealing the TB flange to the adapter and the adapter to the plate. I am still seeing horribly unbalanced flow between each side of the block.

OK, the estimated flow for the whole thing is around 1100cfm.
long runners can flow around 840cfm together
short runners can flow around 725cfm together

Estimated flow for each(3 runs):
#1 273cfm
#2 266cfm
#3 254cfm
#4 320cfm
#5 320cfm
#6 320cfm
is that a stock manifold or your modified one from carolina?

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OEM surge tank

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ah, I was kinda worried when I saw those numbers and thought it was your modified one

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