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post #81 of 113 Old 05-14-2014
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Originally Posted by GenBrah View Post
Don't worry man, it's loose at first when all installed, you have to give it a hundred or couple hundred miles first before everything settles then you can readjust it properly. The spring won't be loose the next time you back up the rear of the car even though your rear strut seems way to long at this point.
Thanks very much for the reply, explanation and reassurance. I appreciate it.
Every thread I read said to get the spring captive and then fit the strut in the space available. In my case, the strut is way too long to fit in that space, causing the spring to be loose when strut bolted up, that is why I was worried.
Plus looking at pictures of other brand coils, the shock mount base are at least 2" longer than HSD (more threads in the cup allowing to shorten the shock body further).

I will give it a few miles and check later to confirm what you said. Thanks a lot man.
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post #82 of 113 Old 05-14-2014
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Originally Posted by seigneur_rayden View Post
Thanks very much for the reply, explanation and reassurance. I appreciate it.
Every thread I read said to get the spring captive and then fit the strut in the space available. In my case, the strut is way too long to fit in that space, causing the spring to be loose when strut bolted up, that is why I was worried.
Plus looking at pictures of other brand coils, the shock mount base are at least 2" longer than HSD (more threads in the cup allowing to shorten the shock body further).

I will give it a few miles and check later to confirm what you said. Thanks a lot man.
The spring shouldn't be loose, it should be captive.
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post #83 of 113 Old 05-15-2014
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Originally Posted by DudebuD View Post
The spring shouldn't be loose, it should be captive.
That is what I know also and read everywhere. Uniqperformance contacted HSD regarding it. I am waiting to hear from them. We will see.
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post #84 of 113 Old 05-15-2014
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Can you take pictures for us...did you reuse all the rubber mounts for the spring it's loose when what? All bolted back together and lowered? Or when you jack it up everytime. When first installed it can be loose that's why I said try and take it around the block all installed let it settle

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post #85 of 113 Old 05-16-2014
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Originally Posted by GenBrah View Post
Can you take pictures for us...did you reuse all the rubber mounts for the spring it's loose when what? All bolted back together and lowered? Or when you jack it up everytime. When first installed it can be loose that's why I said try and take it around the block all installed let it settle
Thanks for the reply.
It is loose when car is jacked up not when lowered on the ground. The issue is that to properly set the rear, it is said, get the spring captive then fit the strut in the space available.
In my case, when I get the spring captive, the strut is too long to fit in the available space. Consequently, when you bolt the strut, the spring is no more captive. I will post a picture this evening.
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post #86 of 113 Old 06-30-2014
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Well, I have been running on the HSD's for about 2 weeks now and thought I'd write up a little something about them for those who are considering them.

Price: the going rate for these right now is somewhere around $1300 (canadian ). I know that there are cheaper kits out there but after I had done my research I decided to poney up. I am glad I did

First thoughts: After receiving the kit and having a first look at it, I realized that I definitely got what I paid for. All of the components have an extremely solid feel to them and you can tell these are quality pieces. But I know, looks only go so far...

Install: I did not do the install myself as I dont have jack stands (shame). So I had a local shop install them for me. They too are impressed with the quality and vouch for HSD. I was there for the duration of the install and there were no hiccups. Just a normal coilover install So HDS gets a +1 there too. No rubbing or clearance issues at all. (may be worth mentioning I have a 2010)

Adjustability: These are where these units really shine. Camber, 16 position Damping, and of course height.

Damping:I have mine set up with 7 'clicks' from full hard in front, and 8 from full hard in the rear. This gives the car nearly stock ride characteristics (comfort wise) if not just a bit harder. So those who are looking to get a smoother ride may be able to with setting the HDS's to a softer setting. (and rock hard if you so choose?)

Height Adjustment: We played with this for a bit. When I first got these on the car we had them set to a 'stockish' rideheight. There was plenty of thread to go even higher than stock, so those wondering if these can be used without a drop at all; they can! After letting them settle, we dropped the front and rear to get the look I wanted (pics to come). I am fairly low (trouble backing out of the shop :S) but I wouldn't call it 'slammed'. There are lots of threads left to go down another inch or so from my current ride height (again, pics to come)

Camber Havent played with this too much (yet) but have it set to a stock like setting. I believe its about 5 degrees of adjustability, but let me get back to you on that one

Post-Install, Final Thoughts Well what can I say.... I am totally satisfied with my purchase. The ride is just how I wanted, the Drop is enough for me (moar low if you want!) and everything is just... working. No issues, no nothing. No noise or any sign that they will give me a problem.

I guess if there is anything I missed let me know! I will be getting Pics up shortly so you can get an idea of the ride height.

Overall 10/10
bump.. maybe its just me but where is the knob for stiffening the front struts. i only see the rear.. cant b the top knob right.

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post #87 of 113 Old 07-01-2014
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Bottom of front struts

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post #88 of 113 Old 07-01-2014
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thanks.. ill take a look at it

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post #89 of 113 Old 07-20-2014
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so for those who installed the hsd coils for the 2008- 2010, did u just use the stock front endlinks or some other one. i had a problem where the stock ones didnt make the car go low for some reason and had to use the ones from my st coilovers to get the drop i want on my 18s.

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post #90 of 113 Old 07-20-2014
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I'm going to assume you are talking about the collar you attach your end links to. If you can't get it low enough, you either want to go too low or you aren't adjusting preload properly. In my case, I have removed 1 locking ring and gone extra preload to bring it to where I want and still want to come down another 1/4 inch. So I will be going with more preload and adjust stiffness as needed.
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post #91 of 113 Old 07-20-2014
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So I have my coilovers installed and I'm pretty sure I did everything right but I'm having a few problems. The ride just isn't comfy at all. I had the damping set @ 8 out of 16 all around which I didn't like. So I went full soft but I barely feel any difference. What could be the cause of this? Every bump I hit feels like a huge thud and at highway speeds, every bump sends me out of my seat...

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post #92 of 113 Old 07-20-2014
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All I can say is "welcome to the world of lowridin" lol. I found them to be way more comfortable than stock suspension but yes, at highway speeds, you better keep the seatbelt on lol. That's just a preload thing as well.

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post #93 of 113 Old 07-21-2014
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hmmm to get? or not to get? that is the question.
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post #94 of 113 Old 10-15-2014
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Originally Posted by ByByCavalier View Post
I have some interesting news on rear preload setup that I'll be posting soon.

I'm pretty sure everyone has the rear damper setup incorrectly, including myself when I first set mine up.

Before I get to the big dialogue, everyone do yourself/me a favour and take a look at your rear damper when your car is on the ground, and feel around the dust boot for the strut rod. Remember that there is a bump stop in there. When I set my preload as per the instructions that myself and others have posted on here, I noticed that you are left with almost no suspension travel. And I wonder why my bump stops were destroyed? Do yourselves a favour and when you fit your rear dampers, give yourself more suspension travel by threading the damper body into to lower mount.

More to come.
here are the steps i took to adjust my rear preload which resulted in terrible ride from the rear and almost no suspension travel:
1.) with LCA lowered, i put it in the spring and adjusted the ride height with the collars.
2.) i jacked up the LCA with the spring in it so that it it was snug and couldn't budge when i pulled it with my hand.
3.) i then bolted in the brake hub and endlink to lock the position of the LCA
4.) i then bolted in the top of the strut first, then i lengthened its base until it lined up with the hole in the LCA.

I'm now left with a bit less of an inch between the bump stop and the shock body. What should i do different to increase the suspension travel?
And no im not slammed. I actually have about a 1/2 inch of wheel gap in the rear. I know i ask you a lot of questions ByeByeCavalier, but you seem to have this figured out. Please shed some light on this situation.

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post #95 of 113 Old 10-16-2014
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Philas, read the last paragraph of bybycavaliers post again. What you did is exactly what you do not do. When adjusting the damper/shock you want the wheels/control arms dropped all the way down with both wheels off the ground. The reason for both wheels being off the ground, your sway bar. If only one side is up the compression on the opposite side holds the side you are working on up a bit. Now the reason you want the control arms hanging, because it's not only bumps (compression) but dips and pot holes (release) especially at highway speeds. If you hit a dip, as you come out of that dip your entire car has vertical momentum upwards. If your wheels can't drop down to keep contact with the road, you're going to have issues. Hope this helps and hope you get what I'm saying.
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post #96 of 113 Old 10-16-2014
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Originally Posted by Chamber View Post
Philas, read the last paragraph of bybycavaliers post again. What you did is exactly what you do not do. When adjusting the damper/shock you want the wheels/control arms dropped all the way down with both wheels off the ground. The reason for both wheels being off the ground, your sway bar. If only one side is up the compression on the opposite side holds the side you are working on up a bit. Now the reason you want the control arms hanging, because it's not only bumps (compression) but dips and pot holes (release) especially at highway speeds. If you hit a dip, as you come out of that dip your entire car has vertical momentum upwards. If your wheels can't drop down to keep contact with the road, you're going to have issues. Hope this helps and hope you get what I'm saying.
When you mean both wheels off the ground, you just mean with the rear on Jack stands right? I did do everything with rear on Jack stands. The entire rear was up the whole time, not just one side.

I'm a bit confused about the control arm part. I understand your reasoning, but I don't get what to do differently. Are you saying that I shouldn't jack up the spring and control arm before adjusting the struts length? If so, how do I know how low to make the arm and how high/low to make the shock body?

If it's not too much trouble, could you just write up a quick step-by-step? I appreciate your help.

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post #97 of 113 Old 10-16-2014
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Correct, do not jack the control arm up. Unless you have to but that will only be half an inch if at all. Starting from where you are now (installed) jack up the rear again, both sides. Unbolt the top mounts and lower your control arms down again (you will need the jack at this point to reverse how you installed them) leave them bolted to the control arm and un thread them until they can be bolted back in at the top. Remember, this is with everything hanging freely and both wheels up off the ground. Once you get to the point of being able to bolt them in, set the locking collar but don't tighten it. Now you're going to thread the shock completely out of the body just to make sure there are a safe amount of threads being used. I think 10 threads is a good minimum. Once confirmed, thread it back in until you hit the locking collar, bolt it in up top, and lock the collar TIGHT. Done. Now rewind a bit back to attempting to line upbthe top mount. If you are unable to do this with out the shock threading out of the body, then I would thread it in at least 10 threads or 10 full turns, set the locking collar, and then use the jack to lift the control arm to bolt the top mount back in. You may or may not have to do this, this is a general install. I can't go off my set up because I'm beyond full slam and have my shock threaded in all the way which is why in my case, I did need to jack the control arm up but only a half inch if I remember correctly.
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post #98 of 113 Old 10-16-2014
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Correct, do not jack the control arm up. Unless you have to but that will only be half an inch if at all. Starting from where you are now (installed) jack up the rear again, both sides. Unbolt the top mounts and lower your control arms down again (you will need the jack at this point to reverse how you installed them) leave them bolted to the control arm and un thread them until they can be bolted back in at the top. Remember, this is with everything hanging freely and both wheels up off the ground. Once you get to the point of being able to bolt them in, set the locking collar but don't tighten it. Now you're going to thread the shock completely out of the body just to make sure there are a safe amount of threads being used. I think 10 threads is a good minimum. Once confirmed, thread it back in until you hit the locking collar, bolt it in up top, and lock the collar TIGHT. Done. Now rewind a bit back to attempting to line upbthe top mount. If you are unable to do this with out the shock threading out of the body, then I would thread it in at least 10 threads or 10 full turns, set the locking collar, and then use the jack to lift the control arm to bolt the top mount back in. You may or may not have to do this, this is a general install. I can't go off my set up because I'm beyond full slam and have my shock threaded in all the way which is why in my case, I did need to jack the control arm up but only a half inch if I remember correctly.
got it. i'm gonna try this out this weekend and i'll report back.
I have one other question. By doing this, the spring is not held captive since the goal is to maximize the shock length despite the ride height. Will this in turn cause a clunk noise coming from the rear? when i first got my coils, i had a bad clunking from the rear which was due to the spring rattling around when hitting bumps since they weren't preloaded.
Ill post pictures after i do the setup according to instructions you provided.
Thanks a lot for the info.

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post #99 of 113 Old 10-16-2014
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Correct, your spring should not rattle as your shock adjustment has nothing to do with ride height or spring pre load. I also had a wicked rattle but it was the locking collar on my shocks kept coming loose so I cranked the crap out of them and have been fine ever since
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post #100 of 113 Old 10-16-2014
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So ive had it wrong all along?
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