[INFO] General Coilover DIYs/Tips/Tricks/Knowledge - Page 3 - Hyundai Genesis Forum
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post #41 of 53 Old 04-15-2013 Thread Starter
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Check your sway/roll bar to be sure the end links are tight.

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One standardized US gallon of displacement compressed using 6 pistons housed in a 60 degree all aluminum V shaped block to 10.4 atmospheres injected and ejected via 24 valves and 4 camshafts. Mix part 100% organically produced air w/ part refined 91 octane liquid hydrocarbons. Expose to electricity and pressure within the energy extrapolater to produce forward thrust via a fully synchronized helical gear set coupled to a minimal slippage differentiator and rubberized traction disks.
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post #42 of 53 Old 04-15-2013
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Also the nut on the top of the shock make sure it is tight. If its lose it will make a tapping sound when you go over a bump

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post #43 of 53 Old 04-15-2013
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One I'd my Megan's was clanking, I didn't have the shock locking collar tight enough.


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post #44 of 53 Old 04-23-2013
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Any recommended settings for the HSD coils in terms of adjustment? I have the front on 8 clicks from full soft and the rear on 6 clicks. Rides good but if it's all wrong, I rather switch it up.

Thanks

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post #45 of 53 Old 04-23-2013
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Originally Posted by pinter View Post
Any recommended settings for the HSD coils in terms of adjustment? I have the front on 8 clicks from full soft and the rear on 6 clicks. Rides good but if it's all wrong, I rather switch it up.

Thanks
How would you characterize the ride right now with that setting? Soft, firm, or what?
I currently have 10 front and 8 rear from full soft and I may adjust it again until I find the sweet spot if there is any.

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post #46 of 53 Old 04-23-2013
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I have a Canadian GT which I believe is a US Track and I would characterize the suspension as softer then stock and a little bit bouncier. when it's really bumpy. I like it as it's not so rough over the bumps.

I might test it 14 front and 12 rear when I have time to adjust it again just to see the difference but I am more for comfort until I want to drive aggressive.

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post #47 of 53 Old 04-23-2013 Thread Starter
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I usually sit around the 8-10 range, depending on what type of driving I'm doing.

It really is just based on your comfort and the type of driving you're going to be doing.

Soft for long drives, stiff for spirited drives.

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One standardized US gallon of displacement compressed using 6 pistons housed in a 60 degree all aluminum V shaped block to 10.4 atmospheres injected and ejected via 24 valves and 4 camshafts. Mix part 100% organically produced air w/ part refined 91 octane liquid hydrocarbons. Expose to electricity and pressure within the energy extrapolater to produce forward thrust via a fully synchronized helical gear set coupled to a minimal slippage differentiator and rubberized traction disks.
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post #48 of 53 Old 04-23-2013
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Is 2 more clicks in the front compared to the rear proper?

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post #49 of 53 Old 04-23-2013 Thread Starter
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I dunno, I usually keep my rears stiffer to limit bounce. By about 2 clicks lol! Again, depends on hat your going for.

If I remember correctly, stiffer in the rear will cause the rear to step out faster, inducing oversteer.

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One standardized US gallon of displacement compressed using 6 pistons housed in a 60 degree all aluminum V shaped block to 10.4 atmospheres injected and ejected via 24 valves and 4 camshafts. Mix part 100% organically produced air w/ part refined 91 octane liquid hydrocarbons. Expose to electricity and pressure within the energy extrapolater to produce forward thrust via a fully synchronized helical gear set coupled to a minimal slippage differentiator and rubberized traction disks.
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post #50 of 53 Old 05-20-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ByByCavalier View Post
I dunno, I usually keep my rears stiffer to limit bounce. By about 2 clicks lol! Again, depends on hat your going for.

If I remember correctly, stiffer in the rear will cause the rear to step out faster, inducing oversteer.

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That is true. I run my cx racing v2 coils at 12 from the stiffest setting in the front and 14 from the stiffest in the rear. Its a little softer in the rear but with the weight of the motor in the front it feels like it ballances out well around the corners.

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post #51 of 53 Old 05-03-2014 Thread Starter
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Could I get some people here with various coilover setups to get some rough measurements for me?

I need you guys to take a look at your rear dampers while they are loaded (car on the ground at ride height). Take a measurement from the top of the strut rod to the strut body to determine your real suspension travel available. This applies to separate damper/spring coilover assemblies (unlike PBM).

I assume everyone has preload set up as described by the various posts on here. I'm trying to come to a conclusion on the whole rear preload and suspension travel issue we have here. It would seem that the popular preload setup instructions does not allow for enough suspension travel, especially on lowered cars.

One standardized US gallon of displacement compressed using 6 pistons housed in a 60 degree all aluminum V shaped block to 10.4 atmospheres injected and ejected via 24 valves and 4 camshafts. Mix part 100% organically produced air w/ part refined 91 octane liquid hydrocarbons. Expose to electricity and pressure within the energy extrapolater to produce forward thrust via a fully synchronized helical gear set coupled to a minimal slippage differentiator and rubberized traction disks.
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post #52 of 53 Old 10-06-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ByByCavalier View Post
Could I get some people here with various coilover setups to get some rough measurements for me?

I need you guys to take a look at your rear dampers while they are loaded (car on the ground at ride height). Take a measurement from the top of the strut rod to the strut body to determine your real suspension travel available. This applies to separate damper/spring coilover assemblies (unlike PBM).

I assume everyone has preload set up as described by the various posts on here. I'm trying to come to a conclusion on the whole rear preload and suspension travel issue we have here. It would seem that the popular preload setup instructions does not allow for enough suspension travel, especially on lowered cars.
Hey cav. Did you ever figure out another way to do the preload? I've followed your rear preload instructions and I still get huge bumps when going over little cracks or little potholes. I've tested both rear dampers and none of them are blown. The car rides pretty smooth on new roads but when I hit a tiny pothole or even a small crack, the car launches vertically. is there anything else I could try to fix this?

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post #53 of 53 Old 09-12-2019
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just a quick question here, but in your opinion, what are the best lowering springs for the money or coil-overs.
I just don't have that much money to spend and I want to make sure I do this right the first time hahaha thanks guys
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