end link issue on driver's side (BC coils, 2011) - Hyundai Genesis Forum
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post #1 of 37 Old 05-07-2013 Thread Starter
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end link issue on driver's side (BC coils, 2011)

Okay, I've been noticing a light tapping noise for a couple of months now from my driver's side rear suspension and I finally got around to looking at it. The end link is going down at an angle so it's not completely flush with the control arm. Because of this, the locking nut can't screw down all the way (when I try, it just spins and goes nowhere). I remember this the last time I adjusted my coils to raise the height and didn't think much of it since the end link doesn't hold any weight, only distributes rigidity. So the tapping I'm hearing is most likely the end link sliding back and forth.

Is there any way you'd recommend to get it on there all the way? And do you think any major damage could come from it being a little loose?

edit: Actually, I take that back. The end link isn't the one at fault I believe as IIRC last time I messed with it I could get it to line up right by jacking up the control arm some. I think the problem was the locking nut didn't want to screw on anymore. Threads looked fine on the end link though.

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It's not a light switch situation of retarded or not. It's a level based question. Like was he code red butt ****ing a couch cushion retarded? Or just like licking strangers knees disabled. Maybe a touch of finger blasting his cat listening to dragonforce and eating an ice cream cone too fast.
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post #2 of 37 Old 05-07-2013 Thread Starter
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:S

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It's not a light switch situation of retarded or not. It's a level based question. Like was he code red butt ****ing a couch cushion retarded? Or just like licking strangers knees disabled. Maybe a touch of finger blasting his cat listening to dragonforce and eating an ice cream cone too fast.
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This is why animal cloning is so easy, they have no soul.
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post #3 of 37 Old 05-08-2013
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I was just going to create a new post regarding my BC end link. I'm having a slightly different issue than you, however.

Presuming that you received the same end links that I did, there is an opening at the end of the threads that will accept a 6mm allen wrench. That should help tighten things up. If you're nut stopped spinning WHILE holding the stud with the allen wrench, you may have a more serious issue (damaged threads on the stud or lock nut).

EDIT - I just realized you were referring to the rear end link. In that case, there's room for a 17mm wrench to keep the threads from spinning while you tighten it up. The wrench will go in behind the sway bar (opposite end of the threads on the end link). If you look closely, you'll see the flat areas where the wrench will grab.

Allow me to show you/others the issue I'm having. This may not even be an issue, but my front driver's side end link is sitting a slight angle after installation:



My passenger's side is completely straight. I can take pliers and straighten it back out and it rotates smoothly, but after a bit of driving, it's right back at its original position. You can barely see it in the picture, but the top joint is perfectly straight. I am not having any clunking or anything, I am just apprehensive about any premature wear on the joint. I know these joints are made to move about, but I'd rather correct the issue f there's something causing this.

Anyone else have end links sitting at this angle? Normal, or not?

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Last edited by 1Car60Mexicans; 05-08-2013 at 06:37 AM.
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post #4 of 37 Old 05-08-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonG View Post
The end link is going down at an angle so it's not completely flush with the control arm. Because of this, the locking nut can't screw down all the way (when I try, it just spins and goes nowhere). I remember this the last time I adjusted my coils to raise the height and didn't think much of it since the end link doesn't hold any weight, only distributes rigidity. So the tapping I'm hearing is most likely the end link sliding back and forth.

Is there any way you'd recommend to get it on there all the way? And do you think any major damage could come from it being a little loose?

edit: Actually, I take that back. The end link isn't the one at fault I believe as IIRC last time I messed with it I could get it to line up right by jacking up the control arm some. I think the problem was the locking nut didn't want to screw on anymore. Threads looked fine on the end link though.

You need to jack up both sides of the rear, put the car on jack stands, take off the rear wheel, disconnect the endlink from the rear control arm, loosen the 14mm bolts on the sway bar brackets a little bit so you can change the position of the bar. Then properly re-attach and re-tighten the endlink, You'll need to jack up the control arm under the endlink to get everything to line up properly.

Once the endlink has been removed from the control arm, you can change the position of the endlink bolt to properly line up with the control arm hole that has been properly jacked up into the right position, just bend it with your hand, it might require some force but there is a good range of movement built in. Then you can use a 17mm wrench to hold the back of the endlink bolt in place while you tighten the front with a 19mm, and finally tighten the 14mm swaybar bolts again.

If you don't correct this soon, youll ruin the threads on your endlink, and have to replace it. The only real "danger" is excessive understeer.

Make sense?

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post #5 of 37 Old 05-08-2013 Thread Starter
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I think the problem was that I didn't hold the back of the end link, didn't realize there was a place for a wrench. Thanks.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by JewishThunder View Post
It's not a light switch situation of retarded or not. It's a level based question. Like was he code red butt ****ing a couch cushion retarded? Or just like licking strangers knees disabled. Maybe a touch of finger blasting his cat listening to dragonforce and eating an ice cream cone too fast.
Quote:
Originally Posted by whatnot View Post
This is why animal cloning is so easy, they have no soul.
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post #6 of 37 Old 05-09-2013
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Also, I found that it helps to lightly tap the endlink in with a mini sledge or hammer before you try to torque it down. When I put mine back in, the nut felt like it was torqued down enough, but the treads were still getting caught as they went through the sway bar, causing the rear to start clunking over bumps. Jacking up the control arm to get the end link to line up with the sway bar is also key to really getting everything properly installed.

The 17mm on the back is a must as well.

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Okay, so I finally got around to looking at this a couple weeks ago (work offshore, rarely have time to do anything with my car ;/), and I'm not seeing a place to put a wrench at the back? When I try turning the nut, the entire stud turns.



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Quote:
Originally Posted by JewishThunder View Post
It's not a light switch situation of retarded or not. It's a level based question. Like was he code red butt ****ing a couch cushion retarded? Or just like licking strangers knees disabled. Maybe a touch of finger blasting his cat listening to dragonforce and eating an ice cream cone too fast.
Quote:
Originally Posted by whatnot View Post
This is why animal cloning is so easy, they have no soul.
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post #8 of 37 Old 09-10-2013
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You should be looking here:



There are two flat spots on the end link, directly behind the mounting tab. I believe a 17mm wrench is what's needed.

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post #9 of 37 Old 09-10-2013 Thread Starter
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Okay, thanks. Next time I crawl under there, I'll see if I can't get it fixed.

2011 3.8 Bathurst Black Genesis Coupe
-Turbo kit from... TurboKits!
-Injen exhaust
-BC Coils
-Bronze Varrstoen 2.2.2's
-Hankook V12's

Quote:
Originally Posted by JewishThunder View Post
It's not a light switch situation of retarded or not. It's a level based question. Like was he code red butt ****ing a couch cushion retarded? Or just like licking strangers knees disabled. Maybe a touch of finger blasting his cat listening to dragonforce and eating an ice cream cone too fast.
Quote:
Originally Posted by whatnot View Post
This is why animal cloning is so easy, they have no soul.
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post #10 of 37 Old 02-21-2014 Thread Starter
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I'm bumping this thread because I still haven't resolved my issue. On top of that, the sound is getting worse. It's not the endlink as I had previously thought. It sounds like it's coming from near the top end of my suspension. When I press down on my car at the rear, I can hear it on the driver's side but not passenger. I thought that maybe the top of the strut may have been loose, so I just now tried to tighten it, but all was good. Rechecked every single bolt and nut possible, including for the sway bar.

I am absolutely stumped as to what this could be. I'm thinking of just taking it to a shop at this point. :\

edit: oh yeah, and I also checked my passenger side for the hell of it awhile back, nut on the end link there is completely frozen lol. Tried a breaker bar and got nowhere. Was afraid of breaking my ratchet I was pushing so hard lol.

2011 3.8 Bathurst Black Genesis Coupe
-Turbo kit from... TurboKits!
-Injen exhaust
-BC Coils
-Bronze Varrstoen 2.2.2's
-Hankook V12's

Quote:
Originally Posted by JewishThunder View Post
It's not a light switch situation of retarded or not. It's a level based question. Like was he code red butt ****ing a couch cushion retarded? Or just like licking strangers knees disabled. Maybe a touch of finger blasting his cat listening to dragonforce and eating an ice cream cone too fast.
Quote:
Originally Posted by whatnot View Post
This is why animal cloning is so easy, they have no soul.

Last edited by JasonG; 02-21-2014 at 09:19 AM.
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post #11 of 37 Old 02-22-2014
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How low are you? I've been plagued with this SAME problem for months however I have PSM Coilovers and mine was coming from both sides. I removed every god damn suspension arm on the rear and reattached and the noise was there. Checked the top but on the shock itself, tight. Checked the end links like a mad man; ITS NOT END LINKS. I got so fed up with it so I went down to PSM where they too couldn't figure out the problem. They raised my car a bit and it fixed the problem (which I thought). Now the noise is back, however it's on my passenger side.

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post #12 of 37 Old 02-22-2014
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post #13 of 37 Old 02-24-2014
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I have the same problem on my car from the passenger side when the noise is reproduced in the driveway by pushing on the trunk deck getting it to squat it sounds and feels like the bottom of the shock and the rear LCA are binding. excessive amount of vibration and we even stethoscoped it. Cant figure out what is going on. also it got better for a few weeks after a fresh alignment but its back already. Im replacing the rear shock this weekend to see if thats the issue
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I have the same problem on my car from the passenger side when the noise is reproduced in the driveway by pushing on the trunk deck getting it to squat it sounds and feels like the bottom of the shock and the rear LCA are binding. excessive amount of vibration and we even stethoscoped it. Cant figure out what is going on. also it got better for a few weeks after a fresh alignment but its back already. Im replacing the rear shock this weekend to see if thats the issue
I thought the same thing. I had my hand on the lower shock mount while PBM bounced up and down in my trunk and this spot was making the most vibration/noise. It seems like the angle of the lower control arm is coming up so much that it's hitting the bottom of the shock mount.

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post #15 of 37 Old 02-25-2014
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I'm thinking about installing some atq rigid collars to see if they will help. I'm at a loss at this point. Only reason I'm thinkin they will help is the temporary resolution with a fresh alignment.
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I'm thinking about installing some atq rigid collars to see if they will help. I'm at a loss at this point. Only reason I'm thinkin they will help is the temporary resolution with a fresh alignment.
Don't think that will work to be honest. How low are you? Do you have a pic? Do you have any collars removed from the rear? If you jack up the car do the rear springs move around?

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post #17 of 37 Old 02-25-2014
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the end links MUST be tight.

Its a real PITA to tighten them without the right tool. You need a very low profile wrench to get in there. A regular wrench wont allow it...and will probably ruin the rubber boot on the link.

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My endlink is super tight and I've tightened it properly. I've even went down to PBM to figure out the problem and they made sure the end link was tight. I think the LCA really hits against the bottom shock mount.

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Oh hi. I'm not super low in the rear and my end link is tight. I have a small enough wrench that grabs the back end of it while I use a ratchet on the nut, so that wasn't the problem. Going to try and get an appointment at a shop sometime this week to see if they can figure anything out.



I'll see if I can't find a better profile shot.

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-Injen exhaust
-BC Coils
-Bronze Varrstoen 2.2.2's
-Hankook V12's

Quote:
Originally Posted by JewishThunder View Post
It's not a light switch situation of retarded or not. It's a level based question. Like was he code red butt ****ing a couch cushion retarded? Or just like licking strangers knees disabled. Maybe a touch of finger blasting his cat listening to dragonforce and eating an ice cream cone too fast.
Quote:
Originally Posted by whatnot View Post
This is why animal cloning is so easy, they have no soul.
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post #20 of 37 Old 02-25-2014
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Yeah, you're not that low at all (not making fun)
I just recently purchased a set of BC coilovers and sold my PBM's because I couldn't stand that clanking in the rear. Hopefully my BC's wont do this. My megans didn't and i was LOOW

Here is mine on PBMS




Here is mine on Megans


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Last edited by D!RTYLOUD; 02-25-2014 at 07:44 PM.
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