As always I hold no responsibility to any damage done to your vehicle or injury incurred from attempting this as this is only a guideline on how to install new anti-sway bars. I would rank this a 1 out of 5 on difficulty with 5 being most difficult like building an engine.
With that said you will need to decide on what replacement sway bars you want to go with. I recommend adjustable bars to help fine tune your suspension. I chose Eibach adjustable anti-sway bars due to their history, the fact I had a set on my BMW 540i M that and I loved the difference they made, the fact the color matches my car well and I was able to purchase them through one of my sponsors at a good price.
Next get the needed tools together. Besides a floor jack and 4 jack stands (or a lift more preferably), you will need the following: torque wrench, 3/8" pull bar, 3/8" short extension, 3/8" ratchet (preferably air ratchet), 17mm wrench, 17mm socket and 14mm socket.
First thing you will need to do is jack your vehicle up as high as possible and install jack stands at each of the jack points in front of the rear wheels and behind the front wheels. I found that I had to jack the front up first and install the front 2 stands some of the way up then go to the rear and use the differential as the lowest jacking point in order to get the rear as high as possible, then return to the front and jack it up the rest of the way until the jack was fully extended and move the adjustable jack stands up the rest of the way. Double check to make sure all 4 stands are the exact same height left and right as well as being level front and rear.
Once the car is in the air, get under the front and loosen up the four 14m bolts holding the U-brackets that contain the bushings that hold the sway bar up. You will need the 3/8" breaker bar with short 3/8' extension and 14mm socket for this.
Once loosened, you can then move to the ends of the front sway bar and loosen the tie rod end links. You will need the breaker bar again, but without the extension. Switch over to the 17mm socket and break the nut loose. You may have to lay down and put your food on the bar for leverage and press against it as these nuts a pretty tight from the factory.
Once broken loose you will need take your 17mm wrench and putt it on the other side of the tie rod end link so that it does not spin as you remove the nut. After both nuts are removed wiggle the end links out of the swat bar and out of the way not to damage the threads.
Now finish taking out the four 14mm bolts out of the 2 U-brackets holding up the sway bar using your ratchet, extension and 14mm socket being careful not to let It drop on your head as you near the end of the bolts coming out and set the sway bar aside once out. Remove the two U-brackets as you will need to reuse them on the new sway bar.
Now get out from under the vehicle and go over to your new replacement bar. You will first need to open the lubricant that came with the sway bar kit by cutting off the tip and squeezing it on to the tip of your finger. Then take your finger and run it along inside of the new bushing. Do the same with the 2nd bushing for the other side. If you are also doing a rear sway bar, go ahead and lube those 2 bushings at the same time and set them aside. You want to do this because the lube is very messy and very sticky.
Now you can install the bushings in the same location on the new sway bars as the old bushings are positioned on the old sway bars. Then pop the original clamps over the new bushings and you are ready to put the front sway bar back up.
Align the front sway bar in the same orientation that the original was in then go ahead and start the four 14mm bolts In the brackets by hand so not to cross thread them and that will allow for the sway bar to dangle there without effort or possible injury from falling. Now go to each end and install the tie rod end link bolts back through the holes of the new sway bar.
Note that the shorter holes further from the end of the bar will give a stiffer ride and create more under steer or push in corners as well as being slightly rougher riding and less controllable in the rain. Choosing the outer holes closer to the end will help with over steer, ride a little smoother and get a little more bite in corners
After you have snugged the nuts down on the tie rod end links using your 17mm wrench to hold them in place and taking the ratchet with the17mm socket installed to tighten the nuts down, you can go back and tighten the four 14mm bolts into the brackets holding the bushings in place that hold the sway bar up. You will want to do these a little at a time on either side of the bracket until it lines up even.
Finally go back with your torque wrench and tighten the four 14mm bolts to about 35 ft/lbs and the 17mm nuts to the tie rod ends to about 48 ft/lbs. I will check the torque specs on the Hyundai Service web site soon to confirm my suspicion on tightening torque.
Final Picture of new swar bar installed
For the rear you will not need the 17mm wrench as both sides broke loose and tightened up without anything holding the other side. In fact I did not see where you could put something on the other side for leverage. Besides with the rear spring right there, room is limited.
Loosen the four 14mm bolts as before with the 3/8" breaker bar, 3/8" short extension and 14mm socket. Break the two end links loose like you did up front with 17mm socket and 3/8" pull bar and remove the nuts, then move the tie rod end links out of the way to avoid damaging threads. If your pull bar and socket combo is too thick, then use the 17mm wrench to break it loose. Once again you may have to use your foot on the tool and your leg as leverage as these are pretty tight.
Now go back to the 14mm bolts holding the brackets in place and remove them the rest of the way with the 3/8" ratchet, 3/8" extension and 14mm socket being careful not to let it fall on your head toward the end. Now take off the 2 OEM clamps as you will need these like up front and sit the old rear sway bar aside.
Get out from under the vehicle, install the lubed new bushings in the same spots on the new anti-sway bar as the old bushings were located on the OEM sway bar you removed. Now install the 2 clamps you took from the other bar onto the new bar around the new bushings. OK you are ready to go back with the new bar. Position it in the same orientation as the original was and install your four 14mm bolts in the bracket by hand in order to avoid cross treading and to get the bar suspended out of the way.
Once semi-secure, install the tie rod end link in the holes you choose. Remember the further out the hole toward the end the smoother the ride, better in the rain and less over steer you will have. Now snug the 17mm nut down and move back to four 14mm bolts tightening them with your 3/8" ratchet, extension and14mm socket each a little at a time to seat the bar and bracket with bushings evenly. Once everything is in place you can torque down like the front with 35 ft/lbs on the 14mm bolts and 48 ft/lbs on the 17mm nuts. If you can't get on the nuts with your torque wrench, just get a feel of how tight the front ones are and try to get as close as possible using what willl fit in there.
Final Picture of new swar bar installed
Originally I set both front and rear new adjustable sway bars to all the way stiff, but found the car pushing in corners resulting in some forward slide with not enough turnin creating under steer. So I went back and adjusted the front sway bar to the end holes of the bar making it softer giving me a bit more bite and it helped. I like the rear stiffer anyways as I'm keen on throttle steering a car at times and I consider over steer is a friend of mine even though I'm not a drifter.