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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, quick question just wanted some info...

I have a 2.0t 2014 gc, isr exhaust, injen intake, forge blowoff valve. Is this enough to go with the 1.5 tune or should I stick with 1.0 until I install an aftermarket intercooler and a few other goodies? Or would it be safe to get the 1.5 and then install the other bolt ons soon after? If I could get some info back I’ll be getting the canned tune soon. Thanks appreciate it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah I was planning on getting the plugs and thanks for the reply, I’ll get one before doing the 1.5 then, appreciate it!
 

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Do all your engine related mods BEFORE the tune. No need to have the tune done for more than 93 octane. Instead, get meth kit as part of your mods. For plugs, just go with NGK one heat range colder.

Whatever tune you get, make sure you give Jay ?assuming you go with SFR) a complete list of all your engine related mods. If you make additional engine related mods after your tune, you will need to have it retuned.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Alright! So at this point what I’m looking at is getting the aftermarket oil cooler, plugs, and possibly a meth kit. Then throwing the 1.5 sfr tune on it. Thanks for the info guys appreciate it.
 

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Alright! So at this point what I’m looking at is getting the aftermarket oil cooler, plugs, and possibly a meth kit. Then throwing the 1.5 sfr tune on it. Thanks for the info guys appreciate it.
Where are you located?

I dont feel the oil cooler is crucial right away and is not necessary for the tune. Best to spend the money on the car for other engine uogrades or suspension, wheels/tires, carbon to shed some weight.

I would look into a Torque Solutions throttle body spacer and a GrimmSpeed phenolic tbermal intake manifold spacer for a couple inexpensive quality upgrades.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Alright! So at this point what I’m looking at is getting the aftermarket oil cooler, plugs, and possibly a meth kit. Then throwing the 1.5 sfr tune on it. Thanks for the info guys appreciate it.
Where are you located?

I dont feel the oil cooler is crucial right away and is not necessary for the tune. Best to spend the money on the car for other engine uogrades or suspension, wheels/tires, carbon to shed some weight.

I would look into a Torque Solutions throttle body spacer and a GrimmSpeed phenolic tbermal intake manifold spacer for a couple inexpensive quality upgrades.
I’m from Central Texas, I’m pretty new to this style of car, just picked her up less than a month ago and already thrown a lot of aftermarket stuff on (a lot being relative based on how long ago I got it).

I’ve looked into the throttle body spacer, so leaving the stock intercooler would do for now? Instead just go with some other internal stuff probably... Any suggestions besides the colder plugs and a meth installation?
 

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Do you really need colder plugs with a 1.5 tune???

What temp does the oil run now? Does the gauge agree with what say Torque says?

I'd ditch the stock intake for a short ram or fender well kit.

And a water temp gauge that is accurate you should have too.

Engine leash is a cheap mod.
 

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Do you really need colder plugs with a 1.5 tune???

What temp does the oil run now? Does the gauge agree with what say Torque says?

I'd ditch the stock intake for a short ram or fender well kit.

And a water temp gauge that is accurate you should have too.

Engine leash is a cheap mod.
From what I’ve been told the colder plugs are smart to grab and why not they aren’t that expensive, my oil temperature is fine I’m just not as knowledgeable in how this tune or anything effects this car as much as you guys may be because it’s brand new for me. Also I have an injen intake which has been treating me well, don’t have the stock in. Also not to be rude or anything but I had trouble understanding some of the stuff you were trying to say. Thanks for the input though.
 

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If you go with colder plugs, tbey will tune for it.

Besides the TB and intake manifold spacers, only money will limit your mids.

You can work on the fuel system and injectors, upgraded intake manifold, bigger turbo, port head. With these you would be needing a custom tune.

You can build the shortblock with forged internals and balanced and blueprinted if you really wanted to build a beast.

If manual trans, megan trans mount and 4th differential bushing.

Is this your daily driver or do you have something else to drive while doing the work?
 

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Currently I'm running a CBE, downpipe, test pipe, intake, Synapse BOV, and stock spark plugs on the 1.5 tune. Everything works like a charm.

From what Jay's said, these canned tunes are made to "learn" your mods even as you install them. I know you can run stage 1.0 on a bone stock car, but 1.5 SFR recommends the basic bolt ons.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If you go with colder plugs, tbey will tune for it.

Besides the TB and intake manifold spacers, only money will limit your mids.

You can work on the fuel system and injectors, upgraded intake manifold, bigger turbo, port head. With these you would be needing a custom tune.

You can build the shortblock with forged internals and balanced and blueprinted if you really wanted to build a beast.

If manual trans, megan trans mount and 4th differential bushing.

Is this your daily driver or do you have something else to drive while doing the work?

Yeah I do have another car that I will be driving most of the time, this is my project/weekend driver. Also considering i plan on doing a lot of stuff to the car a custom tune may be the best option in this case. Definitely want to upgrade the turbo at some point. A lot of work headed my way i suppose.
 

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If its a canned tune (IE you send them ecu, they flash it and send it back) then you don't have to trip about it being lean or rich if you change minimal things. You will get the best bang out of it if you have the right supporting mods (FMIC, etc), but its not a necessity. Plugs iirc are the only true necessity for SFR1.5.

The BK2 ecu uses a wideband o2 sensor and the ECU still has safeguards against doing something majorly bad, no matter the tune. Tunes adjust the upper limits of parameters that the ECU controls, so instead of say peak timing being 15* at a certain spot, your tuner changes peak timing at that spot to 20*. The ECU, if it does not see optimal conditions, can still limit you from reaching that point, which is why tuners hate trying to tune people's cars that have issues. If you do something that makes it run super lean, itll fight back. If you do a mod that helps, itll figure it out. This means if you get a SFR 1.5 now and then later do spacers, or FMIC, or whatever, you don't have to send it back to Jay to retune, as the ecu will learn to adjust for it on its own. Also the canned tunes have more of a "safety factor" in them than custom, as a custom tune Jay or whomever has the car in front of him on a dyno and he can really dial it in and get close to the edge.

If you have intake, catback/turboback, fmic, that would be a great point to go with 1.5 over 1.0. Also Jay is releasing 1.5 with crackle/pop exhaust notes soon. Even if you dont have the above, that alone is worth it. Also, unless Jay is coming to your area, and/or you have a built motor/big turbo gen, I wouldnt bother with needing a custom tune.
 

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Go 1.5. Doing some simple research you would find that the 1.5 tune doesnt require any bolt ons. Bolt ons would definetly help performance however they are not neccesary. If you doid decide to add more bolt ons the 1.5 tune allows the ecu to relearn the new modifications making slight adjustments. And dont get one step colder plugs, I personally talked to jay and asked him about one step colder, he said they arent neccesary.
 

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If its a canned tune (IE you send them ecu, they flash it and send it back) then you don't have to trip about it being lean or rich if you change minimal things. You will get the best bang out of it if you have the right supporting mods (FMIC, etc), but its not a necessity. Plugs iirc are the only true necessity for SFR1.5.

The BK2 ecu uses a wideband o2 sensor and the ECU still has safeguards against doing something majorly bad, no matter the tune. Tunes adjust the upper limits of parameters that the ECU controls, so instead of say peak timing being 15* at a certain spot, your tuner changes peak timing at that spot to 20*. The ECU, if it does not see optimal conditions, can still limit you from reaching that point, which is why tuners hate trying to tune people's cars that have issues. If you do something that makes it run super lean, itll fight back. If you do a mod that helps, itll figure it out. This means if you get a SFR 1.5 now and then later do spacers, or FMIC, or whatever, you don't have to send it back to Jay to retune, as the ecu will learn to adjust for it on its own. Also the canned tunes have more of a "safety factor" in them than custom, as a custom tune Jay or whomever has the car in front of him on a dyno and he can really dial it in and get close to the edge.

If you have intake, catback/turboback, fmic, that would be a great point to go with 1.5 over 1.0. Also Jay is releasing 1.5 with crackle/pop exhaust notes soon. Even if you dont have the above, that alone is worth it. Also, unless Jay is coming to your area, and/or you have a built motor/big turbo gen, I wouldnt bother with needing a custom tune.
The tune is going to be stage 2 not 1.5
 

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Texas tea...........

Your in Texas, its hot anywhere in Texas,..some parts hotter than others. What I recommended is in addition to what you have to be safe in heat,

Any tune , the more aggressive the more heat. Even with a canned tune a 1.5 is increasing the spark dwell. Especially if your a 4 banger.
That means increased head temps,or the heads are retaining more heat) Thats why the oil cooler.
- Obviously the plugs.
- If you are going to use M/W, you'd better tell SFR up front. For all the work you will do ,this way he can tune a bit more aggression into her. If you dont, then it will be just for cooling and cleaning.
- Its canned tune, but if you were to speak with Jay he would tell you to use as high an octane as you can get 93. But he does make his canned tunes "safe" for pretty much any mark of pump gas.

Just keep in mind the hotter your climate the more important heat removing measures become. Especially if you are an aggressive driver.
Oil temps,intake charge temps (and octane), and plug durability are the triumverate of not pre-detonating under load.
 
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