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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What upppp got some symptoms, just wanted to see if anyone else has experienced the same. I guess first off, I recently installed a megan transmission mount about two months ago and a blox 490 shift knob, both made a huge difference. Even with these adjustments, there are still some odd things observed.

When I explain this, I'm referring to the method of switching between 1st to 2nd with the clutch in, I'm not referring the whole method of clutch in, shift, clutch out.

I'd say 5/10 times, shifting from first to second is okay, not as smooth as the other gears, but not bad. Rarely, its extremely smooth. Other times, it's like its hard to pull out of first, and I feel resistance before placing into the 2nd gear notch. Normal?

Occasionally I also have a noticeable shake or disturbance from the trans when pressing the clutch in before shifting into the 2nd gear notch. I own a 2012 3.8 track 6m, with 86,500k. Still on the original flywheel/clutch. I honestly think the flywheel is bad, or severally worn. I'm aware that these flywheels aren't that great brand new so I can imagine that the miles and time have taken their toll. Think a flywheel replace will fix this?

I also have that *metal ball rattling inside a can* noise while I'm idling and the clutch is out. I've read that this can be either the flywheel springs or the input shaft bearing or pilot bearing or whatever the hell it is. What y'all think?
 

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shorttrack
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Had shifting problems myself.Pulled the tranny ,Pulled clutch and flywheel off,inspected both.Had under 7,000 miles on my 14' 3.8 R spec .Flywheel and clutch pressure plate looked very good , the ''free play'' in the dual mass flywheel was as good as a new flywheel .The problem was that after a few hard Nitrous runs and a few all motor launches the friction material on the flywheel side of the clutch disc was snatched off and away from the rivets of the disc hub. Some of the friction material was actually pulled on top of a few rivets thus making the clutch disc thicker in some area and not being able to fully dis-engage when I pushed the clutch pedal in.The cracked up/sitting on a few rivets ( in a few areas) and sheared friction material was keeping the tranny always loaded thus not allowing smooth shifts.I replace all said items with SPEC stage 3+ clutch and a Spec single mass flywheel and other shift related mods .Problem solved.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Had shifting problems myself.Pulled the tranny ,Pulled clutch and flywheel off,inspected both.Had under 7,000 miles on my 14' 3.8 R spec .Flywheel and clutch pressure plate looked very good , the ''free play'' in the dual mass flywheel was as good as a new flywheel .The problem was that after a few hard Nitrous runs and a few all motor launches the friction material on the flywheel side of the clutch disc was snatched off and away from the rivets of the disc hub. Some of the friction material was actually pulled on top of a few rivets thus making the clutch disc thicker in some area and not being able to fully dis-engage when I pushed the clutch pedal in.The cracked up/sitting on a few rivets ( in a few areas) and sheared friction material was keeping the tranny always loaded thus not allowing smooth shifts.I replace all said items with SPEC stage 3+ clutch and a Spec single mass flywheel and other shift related mods .Problem solved.
Man I just saw this, when I originally created this post I was having issues with my internet so I didn't know this posted. I figured that it was something to do with the flywheel and clutch, its an odd feeling. How do you like the single mass flywheel? I was also thinking that it would fix some issues, but might come at the price of super annoying chatter. Do you think I run a risk of severely damaging my drivetrain if I continue to drive with this issue?
 

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shorttrack
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You could screw your tranny up if you don't fix the problem .I'm used to driving Bridge ported rotary race engines on the streets so the SM & race clutch is OK for me .I don't get chatter from my Single mass flywheel and stage 3+ clutch set up .To add I am running a wilwood .625 clutch master cylinder and a self made Clutch adj rod (Rod looks custom shop made). Running all shift linkage bushings ,4th diff sleeve & bushing ,stiffen tranny mount,engine TQ damper and custom short shifter with shim pack kit also have a N2mb WOTBOX shift box and V3 sprint booster throttle controller.I do get noise when I turn on the AC,I can live with that though.
 

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shorttrack
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I do my own work so high labor cost is non existent and that allows me to put what is needed in my Gen Coupe to run in the 11's in the 1/4 and surprise many on the streets without the common problems of our platform .
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I do my own work so high labor cost is non existent and that allows me to put what is needed in my Gen Coupe to run in the 11's in the 1/4 and surprise many on the streets without the common problems of our platform .
Oh **** that's dope af! I'm not too keen on the 1/4 times for heavily modded gennys but that sounds impressive for the 3.8 platform. Makes me want a bk2 ;)

Hell yea man that gives me hope for running a SMF. I think a stage 3 would certainly bother me so I've been on the hunt for a street friendly set up. I think I'm going to go with ACT SMF and HD clutch. Reviews seem fair. I have the megan trans mount, of the many mods you have with your trans, which would you recommend for me in terms of reliability, possible chatter elimination, and overall effective performance? I don't plan on many other power mods other than intake/exhaust.
 

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shorttrack
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Oh **** that's dope af! I'm not too keen on the 1/4 times for heavily modded gennys but that sounds impressive for the 3.8 platform. Makes me want a bk2 ;)

Hell yea man that gives me hope for running a SMF. I think a stage 3 would certainly bother me so I've been on the hunt for a street friendly set up. I think I'm going to go with ACT SMF and HD clutch. Reviews seem fair. I have the megan trans mount, of the many mods you have with your trans, which would you recommend for me in terms of reliability, possible chatter elimination, and overall effective performance? I don't plan on many other power mods other than intake/exhaust.
while changing your clutch change the front and rear shifter linkage bushings and you need either modify your engine mounts (urethane ) Or fab up as I did a engine TQ damper.As I do for anyone ,pm tele# and we can talk from there and I will send pic's of my build so you get a better understanding of my mindset on all things Gen Coupe affordable performance .
 
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