Do you know one that definitely reads oil and ATF temps? I know there are sensors, but I'm not sure what OBDII can read it. I've read almost 10 years of posts, and it seems that there isn't a clear answer regarding oil and ATF temp availability. Some said that Torque + Hyundai Plugin could, but then I read that Hyundai plugin stopped working and updating a few years back. So, I'm not sure what is available now that definitely reads the more advanced PID codes.
Also, I've read about a decade of posts about cooling, many of which had messages from both of you. But, I didn't see any convergence on solutions. Generally speaking, I'd like to read the temps to know which is being problematic. Beyond that, I've seen some suggestions that a good order of updating is radiator, then oil cooler, than tranny cooler. But, I've read a lot of people trying a lot of things over the years. But, most of the posts are a few years old, and I'm not sure what people end up thinking their best setup is (when do they quit with their trial and error).
Red, do you still have a Koyo rad? And what oil cooler did you end up with. And what about tranny cooler (can't remember if you have AT or MT), but with new rad, assuming you had to do something to replace the stock cooler (if AT).
With all of the trial and error people have gone through, reading all the posts, it is tough to find out what people end up thinking is the best setup.
Thanks. I finally got around to trying it out and I got Torque and EX to work with my transmitter. I'm able to see [HADV] CVVT Temp and ATF Temp. Interesting that the ATF Temp is nothing like the default "Transmission Temperature(Method 1)". Not sure how that is calculated. I'm not sure when I'll be able to put the car through paces. Maybe AutoX in a couple of weeks, but no full road track sessions until next year. But, at least now I can watch oil, water, and ATF and see what's spiking when.
Update, in case any of this is helpful for anyone else.
Finally had a full track day with sensor data. From what I can tell, it looks like the shift point drops from redline to 5k rpm when the transmission ATF gets to about 240 degrees. It keeps rising after that, but slower. At the same time, the engine oil hits about 285, and the coolant hits 230-235. They level out around those temperatures regardless of how much more I keep driving after the shift point drops.
Based on that, I plan to add an oil cooler and trans oil cooler. I'm not sure if just adding one will drop the temps as much as I need. So, if it works, I won't be isolating the "fix" to one thing, but I think that extra cooling of both the oil and ATF directly is a good thing in this case.
Before the track day, just to make sure there wasn't a more obvious or simple problem, I took it to the dealer to check for codes, but there weren't any. I also had the oil, coolant, and ATF replaced (holy cow, ZF 6ATF is really expensive, especially from the dealer). And I changed the rad cap, just for good measure. The early shifting continued happening after all of that, so I eliminated those as possible causes.
Ok, probably last post on this thread. Again, in case it is helpful to anyone else.
I installed the Mishimoto oil cooler kit and a B&M cooler for the ATF (inline, after stock), and just took it to the track for a shake down.
I have data for 7 sessions before the cooler installs, and 3 sessions after the cooler installs. On different days, ignoring ambient temp differences.
Before the coolers, I averaged under 7 minutes of hot track time before the car started shifting at 5k rpm instead of redline. After installing the coolers, I completed the sessions shifting at redline the whole time (about 15 minutes).
Before the coolers, according to Torque, average max ATF, CVVT oil, and coolant were 257F, 281F, and 228F, respectively per session. After the coolers, average max ATF, CVVT oil, and coolant were 210, 242, and 234, respectively per session.
So, the ATF was almost 50F lower and oil was 40F lower. The coolant was 6F higher. And that is for 15 minutes of hot time, rather than 7 with reduced rev shifting the rest of the session. The coolant was a couple degrees higher even after the 7 minute mark. I'm guessing the coolant is higher because the new radiators are creating less cool air flow over the stock radiator. But, it seems to have solved my shifting problem.