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Discussion Starter #1
Is you’ve seen my new members post, I have a low mileage 12 BK1 2.0 A/T.
Possible left front damage repaired minimally.

Steering. At a stop, the steering wheel turning is heavier than what I would consider normal.
Also, at any speed, the wheel will not ‘Self Center’. It’s you turn and I’ll roll back towards center and stop at about 11o’clock which no hands on the wheel and you just be have to center with hands.

Toe was checked at OEM spec, camber in the left front is “Off by 1 degree” yet the shop didn’t save nor print specs. It was a Saturday and I needed to leave.

However, 1 degree camber kick I’ve never had cause heavy steering and failure to self center.

Could this just a poor Power Steering design from Hyundai or do your BK1’s have light(er) steering and normalize self centering.

Lemme know before I start tearing the front suspension into pieces and diagnosing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I looked up the specs and the caster angle is 7.5.
Assuming this should place the mechanical trail over 30mm. Without knowing the actually steering axis, I can only guess.

However, with this camber vs caster spec the car should track pretty damn straight with it self righting more than it is.

There must be some odd deflection going on in general.
If it’s just a wonky design, I’ll need an adjustable front tension arm and adjustable upper strut mount.

Game on...


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Self centering is done by the caster angle.

Mine doesn't really go back to center, but mine sure doesn't wander.It pretty much stays where I set it, within 11 and 1.

difficult steering is not normal. Sounds you need to have your power steering checked.

I wouldn't say it's heavy, but it's light enough to where I can steer mine with a finger.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Self centering is done by the caster angle.

Mine doesn't really go back to center, but mine sure doesn't wander.It pretty much stays where I set it, within 11 and 1.

difficult steering is not normal. Sounds you need to have your power steering checked.

I wouldn't say it's heavy, but it's light enough to where I can steer mine with a finger.


Actually, I explained above and it can be modified to an extent. Their ain’t my first rodeo. Just the first rodeo with an oddly designed front suspension.

After troubleshooting the P/S and rack, there is a pressure/flow issue inside the rack. High pressure going in and low flow coming out no matter how fast I turn the wheel. Since reman. Racks are running $500, I’ll eBay a used rack and change out for my tie rods.


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Actually, I explained above and it can be modified to an extent. Their ain’t my first rodeo. Just the first rodeo with an oddly designed front suspension.

After troubleshooting the P/S and rack, there is a pressure/flow issue inside the rack. High pressure going in and low flow coming out no matter how fast I turn the wheel. Since reman. Racks are running $500, I’ll eBay a used rack and change out for my tie rods.


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Oddly designed? They've using the same basic design since the 50s. It's a macpherson suspension design. There are 2 major macpherson designs, all basically the same; the difference is whether the steering rack/ pitman arm attaches in front of the front axle line, or behind it.

It's just stupid that they have you adjust camber with an not-standard equipped OEM eccentric bolt, and no previsions for adjusting caster. Toes it adjusted by adjusting the tie-rods.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Oddly designed? They've using the same basic design since the 50s. It's a macpherson suspension design. There are 2 major macpherson designs, all basically the same; the difference is whether the steering rack/ pitman arm attaches in front of the front axle line, or behind it.



It's just stupid that they have you adjust camber with an not-standard equipped OEM eccentric bolt, and no previsions for adjusting caster. Toes it adjusted by adjusting the tie-rods.


Not uncommon. You can but a camber adjust set even from Hyundai.


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Discussion Starter #9
I live in Phoenix currently and it’s been 110 during the day. Finally got a chance to work on it without getting heat stroke in the garage and this is what was found.

STEERING BIND

I put the front end up on jack stands and test the steering turn resistance with no friction, car off.

I would guesstimate it takes 3 - 5 lbs of pull with no friction or power steering and it feels like it’s binding.
Started the car with the front end off the ground and the steering has the same bind. Power Steering isn’t providing much help. If you turn the wheel really fast, I’m getting the “out of breath” jitter in the wheel, showing a flow issue.

CAMBER

Toe and camber were check at a shop right after I had the new Comp II’s put on it due to a hard right pull with an out of alignment wheel.

TOE is within factory spec.

CAMBER Is out about 1.5 degrees on the drivers side causing it to walk over the friggen place and pull.



So, side note. I can clearly see the paint is the factory color all around but the left front fender has a different level of orange peel and they didn’t feather match to the door color. So, even when we picked up the car with only 13k at that time, it got popped in the fender.

However, not bad enough for the bumper to be removed as the VIN stickers are untouched and bolts not broken loose on top. Clean carfax meaning it was a single party accident and they took it to Josh Smow auto body.

Crawled under the car and started looking for possible damage. Nothing broke but you can see in the ATTACHED (one shows the half moon and the other side crinkled paint from slip), the engine cradle is shifted over toward the passenger side on the left/driver side. Passenger side untouched or shifted, meaning its compressed a bit at the center.

I’ve seen this, over time or instantly slightly bend the steering rack causing it to bend/bind. However the rack is forward on the cradle and that may or may not be the case. Camber bolts adjust the from the top of the hub lines and will ultimately allow the left front tire to sit in an extra 3-6mm, I don’t like that at all and feel it’s a bandage to a chassis issue.


TL;DR

I found a Rack and Pinion on eBay with 65k miles for $150 (made an offer from a $200 list price) and ordered it.

I’ll replace both front lower control arms.

There-after, I’ll check the camber with my camber gauge comparing left to right since passenger side is in spec. Perfectly

If it’s still off, I’ll jack up the driver side and leave the rolling jack under on it (so it can roll) remove tire, put a recovery strap around the engine cradle, loosen the rear bolt only, make an index line so to I got go beyond and give it a light tug with a “come along” or with my other car.

Already called three shops and they want two hours labor+ for subframe/k-member adjustments which is fare. At $120 labor rate, I’ll do it myself.

Once I feel I’ve un-buggered the geometry, I’ll take it for a full 4 wheel w/ thrust angle to an established alignment shop. I’ll have them set to factory, test drive and adjust to remove the KNOWN RIGHT PULL which isn’t too difficult by playing with the camber and toe just .5 degrees.

I’m probably going to drive it 1800 miles to Colorado and back in a few weeks and don’t want to get butt messages from the car drifting right.















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There is a bolt in the middle of the subframe, one on each side. This pins the subframe to the body position wise. They would need removed to move the subframe any. I've often wanted to try that as my car has always pulled to the right due to caster issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
There is a bolt in the middle of the subframe, one on each side. This pins the subframe to the body position wise. They would need removed to move the subframe any. I've often wanted to try that as my car has always pulled to the right due to caster issues.


Thanks for the tip!

Yeah, this isn’t uncommonly with vehicles using K-members and alignment problems. Thank goodness my automotive training (hands on) included many k-members cars and I also owned a 93 Mustang Notch.

There are a zillion and a half tricks to moving one end or the whole member over. I’m at 0 on driver side and .8 on passenger. Guessing lower ball joint to strut bearing is 28” in length and it’s kicked over 1/4”, that tells me it’s is a slope of .89% in change = .51 degrees. However I think the control arm bolt and drive side K-Member shifted. Together I’m guessing 3/8” should be .75 degrees in total if I yanked it back to the opposite slack.

Camber bolts are for suckers and people with frame damage that’s not part of the k-member. Lol!



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Discussion Starter #12
Problem solved!

Rack and pump replaced with one from a rear end wreck with 30k miles.

Installed a magnetic filter in the suction line to the pump. (5/8” hose from reservoir to pump, FYI)

One thing I never found the answer to was about the stock filter in the reservoir.

Yes, the entire bottom of the reservoir is a poly filter (screen) which I’m guessing is about 100 micron or so. However, I wanted a magnetic one anyways since P/S Systems will eat them selves over time from their own metal shavings.

I may need to flush the system one time since the low mileage used pump and rack seemed to be full of old hydraulic fluid, contaminating my nice new and pretty German synthetic fluid... Lol

Either way,
I hope this info helps others. Your info on this forum has assisted me immensely!


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Discussion Starter #14
Oh!

Shifted the entire subframe over 1/8” and it made my camber and caster symmetrical.

What was done:

-Jackstands on lift points
- Place Rolling floor jack under k-members cross beam (below oil pan), jack it up till it makes light contact with the beam, not lift).
- Loosed 3 k-member bolts on each side (6 total) 3 turns exactly.
- Verified the member separated from the frame with a small flathead screw driver.
- Used one of the wheels/tires to bash the opposite brake/hub towards the other side (redneck dead blow hammer).
- Retorqued to factory spec in a cross pattern.

Good to go and steering now Auto-Rights to center as well.

The above only works if you have unequal camber from side to side. This will increase onside side and lower the other. If it’s super knocked out on one side but the other is factory, you’ve got a bent control arm, strut or taco’d K-member.

I used my iPhone and an angle app which will give me about .50-1.00 accuracy, the garage and house is new and the slab is extremely level.
But I was looking symmetry, I didn’t want one wheel in further than the other. If correction is now needed I’ll install a camber bolt on each side. It’s tracking pretty straight and I set the alignment by eye, including the steering shaft and tie-rod ends.


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