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you really don't need all that info. the diagram that labels the pin numbers is what you really need. all you need to know is pin 2 is your video signal and pin 14 in a ground wire than needs to be de-pinned. pin 14 prevents the head unit from switching to video in when the car is put in reverse. you'll more than likely not use the the power from the head unit for the camera. it puts out 6.6 volts and wont power 99% of aftermarket cameras as they need 12 volt power. and it was unclear to me where this connector is located when i did mine camera but its the connector behind the big panel that has all the gauges and ac controls on it.
i just "de-pinned" # 14 (removed the black ground wire from the harness) and when i go into reverse the display stays the same .. nothing changes. I expected the screen to go black or change into "reverse camera" mode ... did we miss a step or does this pin 14 need to be energized with 12V to kick the display into "rear view camera" ..??
 

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You may have de-pinned the wrong pin. I assume you have used the images to verify?
I do not have pictures to verify.. I looked at the schematic from above and the pin layout was the same pin for pin.. I checked the orientation 3 times to make sure i was correct... The wire was black and it was a ground...
Does not matter anymore... this is way too much effort to get the rear view camera to this display... I already (previously) have installed a rear view mirror that has the 7 inch lcd widescreen that displays my rear view camera... It works im happy.. I just thought it would be a simple thing like this to cut a wire and it would work but i believe the "premium" model is more complex than what we think. This may work on the coupe model that does NOT have oem navigation. On those models UnaVi and NavTV CAN get the rear view camera to work on that display... Something about the factory navigation changes the ball game.. Its just not worth it to me anymore.. I put the wire back into the harness and put the everything back together.. I am not going to mess with it anymore...
Right now i'm messing with the oem 8 inch sub and oem amplifier... And hitting brick walls with that too
 

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The Only
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I do not have pictures to verify.. I looked at the schematic from above and the pin layout was the same pin for pin.. I checked the orientation 3 times to make sure i was correct... The wire was black and it was a ground...
Does not matter anymore... this is way too much effort to get the rear view camera to this display... I already (previously) have installed a rear view mirror that has the 7 inch lcd widescreen that displays my rear view camera... It works im happy.. I just thought it would be a simple thing like this to cut a wire and it would work but i believe the "premium" model is more complex than what we think. This may work on the coupe model that does NOT have oem navigation. On those models UnaVi and NavTV CAN get the rear view camera to work on that display... Something about the factory navigation changes the ball game.. Its just not worth it to me anymore.. I put the wire back into the harness and put the everything back together.. I am not going to mess with it anymore...
Right now i'm messing with the oem 8 inch sub and oem amplifier... And hitting brick walls with that too
So, I looked into this. It's not more complicated. The ground wire shorts out any signal that WOULD BE sent to the monitor. So you have to have the wire disconnected (or unpinned) AND have a source going into the A2 point. If that source was powered by the reverse light, then it would show while in reverse. If that source were powered directly from the battery, for example, then it would override and always show whatever the source is.

Also, if the ground wire remains attached and you hook up a camera, then it will NEVER show.

In short, you can't just unpin the ground wire and expect something different to show. (at least from my vehicle, which is a '15 Ultimate that came stock with factory NAV

If you already have a mirror setup for a reverse camera, then I see why you'd opt to just stick with what you have.
 

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So, I looked into this. It's not more complicated. The ground wire shorts out any signal that WOULD BE sent to the monitor. So you have to have the wire disconnected (or unpinned) AND have a source going into the A2 point. If that source was powered by the reverse light, then it would show while in reverse. If that source were powered directly from the battery, for example, then it would override and always show whatever the source is.

Also, if the ground wire remains attached and you hook up a camera, then it will NEVER show.

In short, you can't just unpin the ground wire and expect something different to show. (at least from my vehicle, which is a '15 Ultimate that came stock with factory NAV

If you already have a mirror setup for a reverse camera, then I see why you'd opt to just stick with what you have.
More accurately pin 14 only prevents the display from being switched to aux video. With pin 14 connected you can send video to the head unit and it wont switch but also even with 14 disconnected it still wont switch even if you send video to A2. The head unit switches to aux video if and only when in reverse gear. So when he disconnected pin 14 the screen should go black as that is what happened with me.
 

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So, I looked into this. It's not more complicated. The ground wire shorts out any signal that WOULD BE sent to the monitor. So you have to have the wire disconnected (or unpinned) AND have a source going into the A2 point. If that source was powered by the reverse light, then it would show while in reverse. If that source were powered directly from the battery, for example, then it would override and always show whatever the source is.

Also, if the ground wire remains attached and you hook up a camera, then it will NEVER show.

In short, you can't just unpin the ground wire and expect something different to show. (at least from my vehicle, which is a '15 Ultimate that came stock with factory NAV

If you already have a mirror setup for a reverse camera, then I see why you'd opt to just stick with what you have.
yea it was too much of a hassle to take all that dash crap apart just to get that one wire OFF the harness' and then when the screen didn't change after i went into reverse... i gave up. IF the screen did go into "aux" mode and i got a blank screen when i went into R, then i would have proceeded to get my video signal to the other pin on the harness ... But its too much of a hassle and not worth the effort again right now since my rear view mirror has the 7 inch rear view camera already and it works :)

But for those that it works.. more power to you and congrats :)
 

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Ive been wanting to try this myself, but ive had a small monitor tucked in the sunglass holder since new, 2014, that works fine. The dealer that i purchaced my coupe from new broke a bunch of stuff in the center console and dash replacing the 3 gauge lenses that were scratched, it took them awhile to get everything fixed right, thats why id prefer to tap into #2 and disconnect #14 ,somewhere in the harness without disabling the dash, if thats even possible.
 

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Would anyone have a clue as to WHY my radio and 7 inch display would just NOT turn on out of the blue... I have had this car for like 2 months now.. Got my amp and sub in, all good, today i get in to go somewhere and my radio and display are DEAD... No music, display is black... Nothing.. I did notice that after looking at it for about 30 seconds wondering why its not coming on, the radio ejects the CD that i had in there ... which tells me that it HAS or HAD power to eject the CD.. I check the audio fuse and its good, i checked the amp fuse, its good.. So now im like... wtf..?? I un-plugged the battery for an hour and re-connected it, still nothing...!! Am i missing a fuse that could be blown that is not labeled for audio or radio or something...?? Or just bad luck that one or the other has failed which makes both suffer..??
 

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Have you tried to manually reset the head unit with the little reset button that is located on the right side of the CD slot. You need a pen or paper lip to push the button. Just push it for a second or two then push the volume knob and see if it powers up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Watt'sON
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Your head unit can output the sound of fm radio stations to the speakers?
Try to press three buttons simultaneously, FM EJECT MAP. What is then displayed?
If anything. You can reprogram the head unit through a flash drive. I can send you the files for that. Although the files we have on the forum :)
 

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Done! Works great! Didn't even mess with PIN 14 as mentioned above. Put the video signal into connector A pin 2 and it works! Only issue I am having is the touch screen doesn't seem to work as well as the 2013 screen. The response to touch is very poor...
Hey, wondering where you got the newer nav and head unit. Is it just a simple swap?
 

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I took the information that already exists in this thread and did a dump of all of the .BMP files;

GC2013_Assets

I'm not much of a UI/UX guy but a Material UI reskin would be glorious. It'd certainly be a daunting task because there's over 1000 BMP files, but keep in mind many (likely a majority) are duplicates and/or are to a specific region/language. Also included is an index for each folder with md5 hashes so if you do want to take a stab at this you can quickly find all of the duplicates.

I might take a stab at doing a reskin of the english XM & BT screens as I use those the most.

On a separate note,

Can anyone reupload the resolution fix files? The dropbox link is dead.
Also, did anyone ever upload the Korean firmware? Has anyone made any progress getting a backup cam working on a 2013 navi? I doubt it's a hardware limitation that was fixed in 2014+...
 

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The 2013 US nav unit does not have the camera capability on the actual board. If you take the unit apart and follow the pins where the video input should be there is nothing there. On the 2014 units there is added chips where the video input is. I’ve been trying to locate an Azera unit to see if it will work in our cars as I have replaced my OEM infinity 360 watt with an infinity Logic7 amp from an Azera that sounds far better than the original. It requires new connectors as it has 3 vs our 2 but it works and is much cleaner and the subwoofer actually works. I want to see if an Azera Nav unit works so I can get apple car play going but I suspect that it won’t be an easy task.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Uhh...Are we sure that the nav uses a MIPS processor?

I know it's not 1:1 but I fired up a Windows NT 4.0 VM emulating a MIPS64 processor, ran the GC Navi application, and it didn't like the arch:


Now of course this could be for MIPS32 and not work on NT4.0, but I took a look at the navi file, and it says ARM thumb?

(I was expecting something like the bottom window)

Will research further...

Edit: Yeah must be ARM x86. Not sure why I was so confident it was running mips
 

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Hi! Just wanted to know if anyone has be able to run an .exe in wince 6 windows mod. I'm trying to run easyconnected or tucsy to screen mirroring but when I try to open an exe a message in Korean pop up saying is not an wince exe which they are.
 

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I'm glad you got it! Me to achieve this goal we had to spend a lot more time and effort. Because I live in Russia, and to top of the range Genesis coupe with navigation and large display is not supplied. I bought extras and made a great change in the wires connecting the head unit. To install other navigation program Navitel. Here is a link with description how I did it, a description in two parts.
I would be grateful, if you could explain the installation of aftermarket navigation software. Although, I would prefer iGO to Navitel. I have the latest generation Korean head unit (BK14.KOR.SOP.) and of course, it doesn't accept the European map.
 
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