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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I'm not new to the Genesis. I've had two. A first gen 3.8 and now I own a 2016 3.8 R-Spec M/T. I'm thinking about buying the Turbo Kits turbo kit for my 3.8. The car isnt my daily, in fact it only has 3000 miles on it. If I purchase the kit, I dont plan on wearing it out or abusing the heck out of it either. I understand that this project is a lot of money and a lot of things that aren't in the kit will be required. My questions are more for the guys who have these Kits installed on their BK2 3.8s, but here goes.

How reliable can you run these Kits on a stock, unbuilt BK2 engine, if you dont daily it, and dont beat the piss out of it? I'm also not trying to turn the boost up. I would most certainly leave it at whatever the kit comes at. Also can the factory M/T trans hold the power? I know a clutch upgrade will be a must. What other essentials, that aren't included in the kit, would the experienced owner suggest? I know a wideband, boost gauge, AFR gauge, oil pressure, fuel pressure gauge, catch-can stuff like that. But what other things would the inexperienced person look passed?

I have a very reputable shop in the area that can do the work, I'm just trying to get a better understanding as to what I would be taking on. Thanks to anyone who can help.
 

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End Me, Begin Him
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690 Posts
So I'm not new to the Genesis. I've had two. A first gen 3.8 and now I own a 2016 3.8 R-Spec M/T. I'm thinking about buying the Turbo Kits turbo kit for my 3.8. The car isnt my daily, in fact it only has 3000 miles on it. If I purchase the kit, I dont plan on wearing it out or abusing the heck out of it either. I understand that this project is a lot of money and a lot of things that aren't in the kit will be required. My questions are more for the guys who have these Kits installed on their BK2 3.8s, but here goes.

How reliable can you run these Kits on a stock, unbuilt BK2 engine, if you dont daily it, and dont beat the piss out of it? I'm also not trying to turn the boost up. I would most certainly leave it at whatever the kit comes at. Also can the factory M/T trans hold the power? I know a clutch upgrade will be a must. What other essentials, that aren't included in the kit, would the experienced owner suggest? I know a wideband, boost gauge, AFR gauge, oil pressure, fuel pressure gauge, catch-can stuff like that. But what other things would the inexperienced person look passed?

I have a very reputable shop in the area that can do the work, I'm just trying to get a better understanding as to what I would be taking on. Thanks to anyone who can help.
Have you considered the Remnant Performance 3.8 Turbo Kit? You should check out their site.

As far as reliability, it is all in the tune and getting heat out of your system. I recommend an oil cooler (which is included in the Remnant kit) and getting a good custom tune. Don't use a canned tune. If you have everything set up right, you won't have any problems running your car for year.

As far as gauges, you need a Wideband, Boost Gauge, Oil Pressure and Oil Temperature. The Oil Catch Can setup comes in the Remnant kit as well.

They advertise as having everything you need to reliably turbo your 3.8 except for gauges and a tune.

They have a YouTube channel as well that has an entire in-depth installation series to help you or your shop install your turbo kit.
 

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1stgengen
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4,533 Posts
As someone currently running a 3.8 turbo, let me share some things I've learned.

- Like OMEGA said above, you will need a custom tune. Any canned tune you get will just be a stop gap between getting the car running and getting a good custom tune. It's just not healthy for the car. I never went the canned tune way, put the turbo kit on and went straight to tune and made 437whp. Took two sessions to work the kinks out, but ended up with a good tune.

- Build your motor. Not in the future, now. If you are considering a turbo, budget for the build and do it now before you even throw the kit on. Why? Because you're gonna blow the pistons. Unless you manage to perfectly solve all your blowby issues, keep oil temps low, run super high test fuel (94+) and baby the **** out of it then you're gonna blow the piston ringlands. There are a few reasons for this. The pistons are weak over 380whp. Past that, you cannot trust them. You might tell yourself that you'll just tune for 380whp, but unless you put a little turbo on there and keep the boost at 4lbs or lower, you're gonna cook it. It's really hard to tune for a power level below what the turbo wants to give you. With my kit, I was making 437whp at 6psi. There was no point putting the boost controller to 3 or 4psi. The fact is, without a build, you're in a ticking time bomb, and the reason you turbo the car isn't to baby it around town and never use the power. You're gonna want to have 6psi min and keep going, so budget for new pistons and a build.

- You will need a clutch. My OEM clutch lasted 90,000km, only about 2000km of that was on the turbo and its just cooked. It will hold reliably at 350ft-lbs, especially if you take care of it, but again, do you want a weak link?

- Plan for the worst, hope for the best. Get all your parts and plans in order and expect things to break. If you install yourself, you will run into issues. Nothing installs perfect every time. Just be prepared to move this, fabricate that, etc.

I run a turbokits kit on my BK1 3.8. They have great customer service and the parts are top notch. You will need to supply your own cooler, and catch can though. The other kit I am not familiar with, but it does come with a couple things. Easy enough to source on your own if you wish to go either way. Without going into too much detail (perhaps that's for another thread), I blew my ringlands. Started getting excessive blowby and knew immediately what was going on. I was pushing the motor hard and running the tune on 91 V-power. Pulled the motor and sent it away. I was probably about 500km or a few good pulls away from spinning a main bearing in the bottom end, and killing the motor. I was lucky. Don't be like me, build the motor ahead of time and just don't ever worry about it.

It's a fantastic car. I've had the car for 10 years, and since the turbo it has just become pretty stupid. Nothing like having over 430whp on tap. Make sure you have wide tires with good rubber! Let me know if you have any questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
As someone currently running a 3.8 turbo, let me share some things I've learned.

- Like OMEGA said above, you will need a custom tune. Any canned tune you get will just be a stop gap between getting the car running and getting a good custom tune. It's just not healthy for the car. I never went the canned tune way, put the turbo kit on and went straight to tune and made 437whp. Took two sessions to work the kinks out, but ended up with a good tune.

- Build your motor. Not in the future, now. If you are considering a turbo, budget for the build and do it now before you even throw the kit on. Why? Because you're gonna blow the pistons. Unless you manage to perfectly solve all your blowby issues, keep oil temps low, run super high test fuel (94+) and baby the **** out of it then you're gonna blow the piston ringlands. There are a few reasons for this. The pistons are weak over 380whp. Past that, you cannot trust them. You might tell yourself that you'll just tune for 380whp, but unless you put a little turbo on there and keep the boost at 4lbs or lower, you're gonna cook it. It's really hard to tune for a power level below what the turbo wants to give you. With my kit, I was making 437whp at 6psi. There was no point putting the boost controller to 3 or 4psi. The fact is, without a build, you're in a ticking time bomb, and the reason you turbo the car isn't to baby it around town and never use the power. You're gonna want to have 6psi min and keep going, so budget for new pistons and a build.

- You will need a clutch. My OEM clutch lasted 90,000km, only about 2000km of that was on the turbo and its just cooked. It will hold reliably at 350ft-lbs, especially if you take care of it, but again, do you want a weak link?

- Plan for the worst, hope for the best. Get all your parts and plans in order and expect things to break. If you install yourself, you will run into issues. Nothing installs perfect every time. Just be prepared to move this, fabricate that, etc.

I run a turbokits kit on my BK1 3.8. They have great customer service and the parts are top notch. You will need to supply your own cooler, and catch can though. The other kit I am not familiar with, but it does come with a couple things. Easy enough to source on your own if you wish to go either way. Without going into too much detail (perhaps that's for another thread), I blew my ringlands. Started getting excessive blowby and knew immediately what was going on. I was pushing the motor hard and running the tune on 91 V-power. Pulled the motor and sent it away. I was probably about 500km or a few good pulls away from spinning a main bearing in the bottom end, and killing the motor. I was lucky. Don't be like me, build the motor ahead of time and just don't ever worry about it.

It's a fantastic car. I've had the car for 10 years, and since the turbo it has just become pretty stupid. Nothing like having over 430whp on tap. Make sure you have wide tires with good rubber! Let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks for the reply. This is all good info to have. So you had the kit installed on a stock motor BK1. How long did you have the kit on the car before the issues came about? Can you remember roughly how much mileage/use you got out of it before the issues? I really want to go this route, and when it comes to it I would have no issues building the engine. What tuner did you use to dial in the final tune? Did you run Meth or anything else? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Have you considered the Remnant Performance 3.8 Turbo Kit? You should check out their site.

As far as reliability, it is all in the tune and getting heat out of your system. I recommend an oil cooler (which is included in the Remnant kit) and getting a good custom tune. Don't use a canned tune. If you have everything set up right, you won't have any problems running your car for year.

As far as gauges, you need a Wideband, Boost Gauge, Oil Pressure and Oil Temperature. The Oil Catch Can setup comes in the Remnant kit as well.

They advertise as having everything you need to reliably turbo your 3.8 except for gauges and a tune.

They have a YouTube channel as well that has an entire in-depth installation series to help you or your shop install your turbo kit.
I had never even heard of these guys until you mentioned them. Do you know anyone who has ran this kit and can attest to its reliability? Seems interesting.
 

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1stgengen
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4,533 Posts
Thanks for the reply. This is all good info to have. So you had the kit installed on a stock motor BK1. How long did you have the kit on the car before the issues came about? Can you remember roughly how much mileage/use you got out of it before the issues? I really want to go this route, and when it comes to it I would have no issues building the engine. What tuner did you use to dial in the final tune? Did you run Meth or anything else? Thanks.
Yeah I installed the kit over winter 2018 while the car was sitting in the garage avoiding the snow. Then spring came along and we trailered it down to 10fintec in Toronto for a tune in May. We got it all running, and made good power. The thing is, the canned tune that comes with these kits really isn't that great and that is intentional so that the car can't push over 380whp for safety, unless you order the tune specifically for a built engine. Being that we were doing a custom tune, it was really hard for my tuner to hobble the car to 380whp and still make it run good. So we went for broke. First tune I developed a boost cut issue so I had to wait for a bit to get that corrected, and after the second tune we didn't make quite as much power but it was very stable.

The die had been cast however, and honestly I bet I put less than 4,000km on the car before needing to pull the motor. Didn't even get one oil change into it haha! I noticed the excessive blow by coming out of the valve cover vent and knew what I was getting into. With that much cylinder pressure at ~430whp on stock internals, you end up pushing a lot of blow by back into the intake via the PCV and the passenger side valve cover and that causes a lot of issues with oil in the intake charge which lowers octane rating. You also end up contaminating the oil with fuel. Since this is not a turbo engine from the factory, it's not set up for boost and doesn't overly enjoy it. You have to control blow by and you have to control oil flow. You might be able to run stock internals on a low psi setup if you really take care to run high octane fuel, and cut all potential blow by and crank case vapor from getting into the intake charge. You could also run an oil cooler too for good measure. Maybe you'll save some pistons.

I'm going into 2020 with a fresh block, BC rods and JE pistons fully cleaned up and balanced. Putting an OS Giken multiplate back in for a clutch. Running a catch can and cleaning up all the vacuum lines. I'll be tuning on 93 octane and running 6-8psi, haven't decided yet. Probably will get an oil cooler at some point. Hopefully I won't have any problems this time around. There is a possibility that I will run meth in the future but at the moment, no plans. I'll be going back to 10fintec for the tune when I can and when they can get me in once winter is done with.

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