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I’ve been reading some old posts looking for suggestions for headers based on my current exhaust setup but haven’t found any too similar to mine. Currently have a CNT v3 exhaust and ark H pipe with stock dp and headers on my 2010 3.8. Any suggestions for headers or anything else about my exhaust setup is appreciated
 

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Ark headers are nice and the quality is great, but they are pricey. They will make it a little raspy tho.
Thanks for the suggestion. A lot of people say good things about Ark headers but also say they’re raspy. I was thinking the h-pipe I currently have would help with the rasp would it not?
 

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I ran the H pipe as well but it didn’t do much, i opted for the straight test pipes. I have heard that putting a cross pipe connecting the “down pipes” off the headers works well to eliminate a lot of rasp.
 

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Thanks for the suggestion. A lot of people say good things about Ark headers but also say they’re raspy. I was thinking the h-pipe I currently have would help with the rasp would it not?
Any headers you get will have rasp. To cut down on the rasp you wrapped them and seal it with Hi temp Silicone coating and you can do the same with the down pipes. ARK in my opinion is too expensive for the lack of quality and the primaries are to big for BK2 and especially for BK1. I had NGM's and they were fine but the quality wasn’t there like the ARK with the ports ends being a mess and not smooth, primaries are not equal length which for my BK2 threw a imbalance code. One side also crack on me about 2 weeks ago. Just bolted up Maintec headers and downpipes and let me tell you the quality is on point for the price. The primaries are just under 1.75 with 2.19 collector exit to 2.25 downpipes. Those are perfect size for increase exhaust scavenging for maximum power out of these 3.8's. You can follow my NA build on IG at 2bracing_fl if you want more info or shot me a message. Heading back to the dyno after I get my intake manifold back. I test and tune my parts when I can so I can tell you what will make the most power.

Hope this was helpful.
 
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To feed off this topic (I'm also in the market for headers since my passenger cat is going out), is there a current solution on these cars for CELs and aftermarket headers? I don't have secondary cats and was planning on trying defoulers with the O2 sensors. Has anyone had success with this method on these cars?
 

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What B3.8 said, all headers will give rasp but to reduce it add an H pipe and wrap them. I hi temp painted my headers, wrapped them and sealed them with the silicone. Already had an H pipe so when it was bolted all up (which I will never try again, that's a job for a shop because its a NIGHTMARE) I fired her up and it was LOUD. But there wasn't nearly as much rasp as I've heard in others' videos. Granted I also have the ark grip catback so I have 2 mufflers and 2 resonators on each side but even on non-straight piped Gens with headers and no cats, it tends to lay on the side of rasp at WOT.
Anyway..
Ark, Maintec, OBX, NGM, J2 and CNT (boooo) make headers for us. The Ark is overpriced (much like all their products) but great quality (much like all their products).
The Maintec is hard to find and not cheap, but probably the best ones available, especially those sweet...sweet long tube headers.
OBX is basically a clone of NGM and J2 is basically a clone of OBX (or the other way around.. I forget.) So the NGM/OBX/J2 are pretty decent for the price. The collector is better than the CNT by a country mile. Are they the best thing smoking? nahh. Is there casting imperfection? yehh. But nothing a lil DIY magic can't help. I just dremeled away excess welding ridges/slag and filled in any problem-some gaps I saw. It was well worth the few hours I spent, wouldn't doubt that it improved air flow by a few percent (I'm talking out my ass on that).
As for the CNT, don't get them. They cheeks. They're worse versions of the NGM/OBX/J2 but the collector inside has some lip action in the direction of air flow so your exhaust is hitting a wall before entering into the collector and exiting into the downpipes/midpipes. Just... don't get them. If you go cheap get the better cheap lol.
Dustin (RIP the goat) has a very detailed post about J2s and CNTs. here. You should read it because he's actually educated, I'm merely a parakeet.
Also I can confirm that NGM and OBX look like the J2s on the inside.

As for the CEL you got 2 options.. 3 sorta, its iffy.
1) get a tune to remove check engine light, but hope you don't have visual emissions testing in your county/state.
2) keep stock secondary cats and extend your secondary O2 sensors passed those cats. So add a bung to your cutback exhaust.

(tangent: instead of doing that, I thought of just adding hi flow cats into the downpipes and keeping my ark H pipe cat delete. Then extending my O2 sensors passed those cats into the end of my downpipes. Pretty sure people would call be stupid for that though. But sadly I have visual inspections here and I HAVE to have 4 catalytic converts... and I refuse to either spend the time putting my OEM headers back on just to immediately swap them back out after my testing OR paying a shop to do that for me. Plus downpipes are a LOT easier to swap than headers if I wanna go back to raw dogging 93 octane)

3) You can try O2 sensor defeaters/defoulers. The regular ones that just add a gap between the O2 sensors will NOT work. Don't even try it. Our Gens are sensitive and don't play that game. But some people (including myself..sorta) have had success with the defoulers that have mini catalysts (catalytic converts insert) in them. So its adding a gap between the O2 sensor and the pipes but also feeding that air through the mini cat. It removed my CEL and it stayed off. 2ish weeks later I went on a 2-3 hour road trip at interstate speeds, it remained off the whole trip. So I easily went over 1000 miles without it giving me a CEL. However, one day after work I decided to get spicy around the country roads I live on and was driving like an asshole. on and off WOT in and out of turns, probably for 15 mins. And during that time my CEL came on and stayed on until I unplug my battery. Now maybe it would've gone away on its own if I just let the ECU read the defouled exhaust for however many miles, but I was working on some wiring anyway so I was going to unplug my battery regardless. That was like 4 months ago and my CEL stays off unless I act a fool and go WOT for extended periods of time. I also just unplugged and replug my battery afterwards because its an immediate fix. HOWEVER, some people have reported that even with mini catted deflouers, their CEL doesn't go away. Now maybe that's because they drive under WOT every day and aren't as easy on the throttle as I am. But I don't know. I can only confidently report my situation, which honestly, if you don't have visual emissions testing. Then its good option IMO.

Enjoy my word dump comrades.
 
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