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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys hopefully this is the right place to post! Finishing up my turbokits.com install and was hoping i could get some info on what oil to run! Any info will be helpfull but preferably would like someone that has a 3.8T to just tell me what to use. Thanks for your time and response!
 

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Amsoil 5w30 or Quaker state 5w30.
Those two are considered best for ware protection both normal and high operating temps.
You want to avoid Modile 1 and Roual Purple .

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awesome thank you!. So for break in (first 500 miles) i should use conventional then switch to fully synthetic? Also i forgot to add that i will be running an oil cooler does this make a difference?
 

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awesome thank you!. So for break in (first 500 miles) i should use conventional then switch to fully synthetic? Also i forgot to add that i will be running an oil cooler does this make a difference?
You are good with full synthetic .

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I would recommend the Amsoil Signature Max-Duty 5W40 diesel. It won't thin out as much as 5W30 when you add heat and wear from a turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
well i picked up some conventional 5w30 for break in then after that ill be switching to something else per what turbokits recommends. Hoping to get a couple more suggestions thanks for the insight guys.
 

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I run 5w30 Quaker state synthetic in twin turbo 3.5 - that engine/turbos sees alot more heat than your turbo gen will ever see.
Oil analysis shows very healthy oil that can go even longer at 6k changes.
Car sees redline few times a day, 11psi at half throttle with lean AF of 14.7 (things get hot), towing in boost for extended period of time. (Too bad Hyundai does not know how to build good turbo engines like Ford does)

I would not run any oil very high on zink - will damage your engine long term.
If you want to see actual test numbers for majority of oils (scroll down down good amount)



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unfortunately it has been to court, & no matter what else it says on container full synthetic etc. it has to say 100% synthetic for you to be getting non dinosaur base stock oil. Look at can & look at price I have almost been punched in face in autozone for saying this.
 

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unfortunately it has been to court, & no matter what else it says on container full synthetic etc. it has to say 100% synthetic for you to be getting non dinosaur base stock oil. Look at can & look at price I have almost been punched in face in autozone for saying this.
Auto parts store oil prices are too high.
I buy Quaker state synthetic at Menards (mid west thing) at $3 per quart, when it goes on sale.

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I run Rotella T6 in my 3.8T
 

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I've been running Kendall GT-1 Full Synthetic 5w-30 with Liquid Titanium protection additive for 8k miles on my 3.8T
 

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Ok here you go,

Hopefully you did a proper turbo break in using the right oil. You should have used a "standard" 5w 30 oil. The reason is the turbo breaking in actually needs what I call a shitty oil to seal itself up. TK should ve told u this, this for 500 miles.

Then and only then any full synthetic 5w 30 is great. You are a turbo GDI now subject to blowby and stuff (fuel diution). So none of this leaving the oil in there any more. Change it every 3K, I dont care what kind of oil you use,Even my super pooper CERMAX oil I change at 3K. Of course I run six pure methanol nozzles too. Even no meth I wouldnt run more than 5K between changes.

My car was a used car before I made her turbo, so I just used a good Valvoline full synthetic 5w 30, after the turbo breakin period and I added CERMA engine treatment 2oz, this mix was left in there for 3K. The next oil change I switched over to CERMA 5w30, and then the following I went to CERMAX. This is where I noticed all the vacuum increases as CERMAs Sic compound formed on the internals making her better and better. Vac when starting -19hg fully warm at idle. After CERMA engine treatment 21-22 hg, after CERMA oil 24 hg, after CERMAX and where she is now -25hg.
CERMA coats all the ferrous innards in Sic. The Prescision BB turbos are coated all up with this, you will actually experience increased and earlier spoolup that increases as she is treated.

***Recently I added 8ml's of a CERMA Nano treatment, this is a one time lifelong coating for the non-ferrous main bearings that you hear so many bitch about "spining" a bearing.Aint happening here
With CERMA there is no more wear on cold startup,.....ever. Also, the crap about oil starvation at high rpms is irrelevant to a CERMA coated engine. The reason is the entire thing is coated in a slippery ass super conductor, which is attracted and attaches to high heat/friction areas. Running CERMA oil keeps boat loads of the Sic available to shore up/maintain this Sic membrane.
Also,CERMA oils are made from PAO base, 100%
***Use the viscosity your engine was designed for,(oil guides and pressure and flow characteristics). CERMA oils are impervious to heat, they dont ever thin. Just use the engineered viscosity.

I also added an oil cooler with 2.5 additional quarts of oil. The cooler is also equipped with a fan, the lines are AN-10. So she swims in 180 F oil, always, never hotter than 185 F. No matter the weather or me acting stupid.

Or you can just run any full synth,.....LOL.
 

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what is PAO base ?
hey, anyone, when you put the recommended quantity of oil in after oil & filter change, where does it register on stick ? mine looks way overfilled Original new car dealer change produced same results,
 

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I fill 6qt, as speced. Its over full, but good way to protect from starvation.
With turbo, you need atleast that much because when engine runs some oil is suspended in turbo line and turbo.

Before blindly changing oil in short frequency, test it in lab. My fuel delution and viscosity still good after 5k on Gen v6.


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There are two forms of true 100 % full synthetics.
1. PAO poly-alpha-olefin make up the API group IV. They are 100% synthetic compound.

2. Esthers Redline synthetics are made from these.. Esters are superior to anything mineral based, but not as chemically pristine to PAO.

PAO is the most expensive and has the highest shear resistance.
***Dont get me wrong they are both superior. Motul and the older Mobile-1s were ester based. Mobile-1 was the first synth of great repute. But then sucked ass for a decade. They have gotten their act together again. Mobile -1 Euro high SAPS is one of the best oils out there. If I didnt use CERMA I would use it.

Fuel dilution on a GDI that is boosted is a whole different animal than NA. Its like comparing a lynx with a Tiger.

Always do your drain with at least warmed oil. I always drive then a half hour later drain her. Do a stable known quantity say 5.5 qts. Run check for leaks, then measure and add. If you have a Fumoto this is a cinch.

My car takes just shy of 8.5 qts now.
***If you drive like I do, 3K changes are wise and par for the course. Its sure not blindly. I learned the 3 K changes from my super VT. Oil changes are cheap insurance to say the least.
 

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I fill 6qt, as speced. Its over full, but good way to protect from starvation.
With turbo, you need atleast that much because when engine runs some oil is suspended in turbo line and turbo.

Before blindly changing oil in short frequency, test it in lab. My fuel delution and viscosity still good after 5k on Gen v6.


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till the crank dips into it & whips it into a froth @6000rpm, just sayin' if its too full..
 

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There are two forms of true 100 % full synthetics.
1. PAO poly-alpha-olefin make up the API group IV. They are 100% synthetic compound.

2. Esthers Redline synthetics are made from these.. Esters are superior to anything mineral based, but not as chemically pristine to PAO.

PAO is the most expensive and has the highest shear resistance.
***Dont get me wrong they are both superior. Motul and the older Mobile-1s were ester based. Mobile-1 was the first synth of great repute. But then sucked ass for a decade. They have gotten their act together again. Mobile -1 Euro high SAPS is one of the best oils out there. If I didnt use CERMA I would use it.

Fuel dilution on a GDI that is boosted is a whole different animal than NA. Its like comparing a lynx with a Tiger.

Always do your drain with at least warmed oil. I always drive then a half hour later drain her. Do a stable known quantity say 5.5 qts. Run check for leaks, then measure and add. If you have a Fumoto this is a cinch.

My car takes just shy of 8.5 qts now.
***If you drive like I do, 3K changes are wise and par for the course. Its sure not blindly. I learned the 3 K changes from my super VT. Oil changes are cheap insurance to say the least.
the problem is oil co.went to court to get approval to sell mineral based oil w/ additives as synthetic it says "full synthetic "on can but is mineral based. It has to say 100% synthetic to be non dinosaur base oil.Everything you say here is correct but can get you punched in face by know it all at autozone.(how dare you imply they have been putting not synthetic full synthetic oil in their car)
 
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