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the problem is oil co.went to court to get approval to sell mineral based oil w/ additives as synthetic it says "full synthetic "on can but is mineral based. It has to say 100% synthetic to be non dinosaur base oil.Everything you say here is correct but can get you punched in face by know it all at autozone.(how dare you imply they have been putting not synthetic full synthetic oil in their car)
It does not matter if its 100% synthetic, only thing matters is film strength at normal and high temps - how well it protects engine. There are many conventional oils that protect better than synthetic oils.

For example Roual Purple is 100% synthetic and is mediocre when it comes to engine protection and is outshined by many conventional oils.

Pure synthetic or not - does not make any difference.

Best oil for the money - Quaker state - baced on independent testing.

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till the crank dips into it & whips it into a froth @6000rpm, just sayin' if its too full..
There is hardly any oil in the oil pan at that rpm range. You need to fill 2 a over to interfere with crank. Hyundai updated oil change capacity to 6qt. , but never updated dipstick.

Problem with v6, oil pan runs out of oil at high rpms for those with low level or of your revlimiter is at 7.2k

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I buy CERMAX 5w30 by the 5 gallon bucket. Not only 100% synthetic, but the most expensive derivative, with the highest level of cutting edge chemical additive engineering available.

Now lets be honest. 98% of the dudes on here with a 3.8 NA will be best served by changing their oil every 5K and can use ANY of what I call the top tier retail oils. They can be pure synth dino synth blend, honestly with the stock vehicle it will be great.
These would include:
Quaker state
Castrol
Penzoil
Valvoline,...by the way Sams club oils are made by Valvoline.
Kendall
Mobile
Shell of any variant

So buy whatever is on sale ! LOL.

***True on the Quaker state, I believe Quaker State is Hyundai/Genesis oem spec oil in the US. All Hyundais that roll out of their Alabama facility come filled with Quaker State oils.

My car is running near twice the horsepower it was designed for, therfore it is prudent for me to give it every edge I can.
Independent tests dont run against super car oils like CERMA. They never have. Go on CERMAS site though he ran his against Amsoil and everybody else. They cant compare.
 

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25 years ago Mobile one was the only true synthetic. Then Mobile got greedy/stupid, went the whole cracked minieral route, and was eventually out classed by competitors. It has only now returned in part to its purist roots. Only a few of their offerings of Mobile-1 are the tried and true stuff.

Royal Purple was a victim of the EPA under the Obama administration.
Obama s EPA did more to **** up combustion engines in two terms than the previous 50 years.
The chems in their add packs is what made their oils so great. The "certified" oils lost everything that made them great. The oil does suck balls for alot of money. Across the board oils in general have little or no add packs as to wear inhibitiors or acidity modifiers. This is from all the stupid ass enviro-nazi's. Some companies offer "off road use only" formulations. These are the great oils from a previous time. Amsoil offers many of these.
Redline has many ester based synthetics that are "race oils". Because the classify them this way they also have the anti wear/acidty/corrosion chems outlawed by the queer EPA.

The big difference in minera/dino and pure esters or PAO comes in a high heat environment. The oxidation and acidity climb in the dino/mineral group. Hence it is a major concern for any force induction engine. NA, not so much. High heat makes all the mineral dino crap just run and not adhere/coat/protect.
 

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There is hardly any oil in the oil pan at that rpm range. You need to fill 2 a over to interfere with crank. Hyundai updated oil change capacity to 6qt. , but never updated dipstick.

Problem with v6, oil pan runs out of oil at high rpms for those with low level or of your revlimiter is at 7.2k

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thanks for the update on the dipstick. I never saw any evidence that the oil was getting "whipped", just never saw the mark on the dipstick & the oil level that different.
 

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25 years ago Mobile one was the only true synthetic. Then Mobile got greedy/stupid, went the whole cracked minieral route, and was eventually out classed by competitors. It has only now returned in part to its purist roots. Only a few of their offerings of Mobile-1 are the tried and true stuff.

Royal Purple was a victim of the EPA under the Obama administration.
Obama s EPA did more to **** up combustion engines in two terms than the previous 50 years.
The chems in their add packs is what made their oils so great. The "certified" oils lost everything that made them great. The oil does suck balls for alot of money. Across the board oils in general have little or no add packs as to wear inhibitiors or acidity modifiers. This is from all the stupid ass enviro-nazi's. Some companies offer "off road use only" formulations. These are the great oils from a previous time. Amsoil offers many of these.
Redline has many ester based synthetics that are "race oils". Because the classify them this way they also have the anti wear/acidty/corrosion chems outlawed by the queer EPA.

The big difference in minera/dino and pure esters or PAO comes in a high heat environment. The oxidation and acidity climb in the dino/mineral group. Hence it is a major concern for any force induction engine. NA, not so much. High heat makes all the mineral dino crap just run and not adhere/coat/protect.
thanks for the info, did not know about EPA interference I have put some amsoil in my emergency generator, lets see what happens. Its a briggs 750cc air cooled engine if power goes out it could run WFO days( in summer) till power comes on.Speaking of nazi's, were they the chemists who originally sythesized the first synthetic oils?
 

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thanks for the info, did not know about EPA interference I have put some amsoil in my emergency generator, lets see what happens. Its a briggs 750cc air cooled engine if power goes out it could run WFO days( in summer) till power comes on.Speaking of nazi's, were they the chemists who originally sythesized the first synthetic oils?
It's more or less -he blindly believes trump bs. RP just never changed/improved with years as others did. As I watched oil testing updated thru few years, oil constantly getting better with ware protection. QS reasently saw a significant bump in ware protection. There was never a setback in production, only improvement.

EPA pushes for better efficiency and lower emissions - only people to oppose it are closed minded selfish individuals. What EPA forced in last years - significant improvement in combustion engines power output/efficiency and oil protection.

If no one forced us to do better, we would still run imberesingly low power v8 engines of early 2000s and blindly believe that high phosphorus and very high zink oil is good for the engine.

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Oh wow, didnt know you were a left leaning snowflake !??

The above is a foray into ingnorance and ranting. (Just remember, you drew first insult). Well Im not going to insult you.

This is why he is wrong...........oh brother.

1 .Nothing I professed has anything to do with Donald Trump.
2. All the facts I have related to you are not my opinion either. They were related to me by an oil industry insider, one John Murray the inventor and owner of CERMA. These items were given to me in 2013 !!! Yes the middle of the Obama administration. Murray had just returned from Washington DC where he had been present for his CERMAs certification/testing/analysis by the dept of energy.
3. John Murray has over 55 years in the automotive industry. He is a full mechanical and chemical engineer. So yes he knows absolutely whats going on.
4. The US automotive industry he speaks of died for all intensive purposes in 2007-2008. What replaced it was a realization that what the ASIAN and GERMAN auto industries had been doing from the 90's into the 2000's was the way to go. Smaller more effiecient more powerful powerplants. This was also true as it related to the warranty coverages.

So no, Royal Purple couldnt evolve, they had no replacment for what the EPA had forbidden them for doing anymore.
****Interestingly enough, Royal Purple did try to buy CERMAs patents in 2008, and Johns company. So have alot of other bigger oil company's But John refuses, loves working, and loves cars period.
The fact that all his CERMA stuff is environmentally beneficial is a side effect, not the goal. The way it should be. True American innovation.
John has also had to sue for patent infringement several times. The Ceratec crap is a EU owned company and is much harder to litigate.for him. Any of you can fact check me by just calling him, if you do hold on to your hat !!!!!!!
When it comes to my Genesis T:
***I only espouse traits/practices and behavior learned with successful anecdotal experience to back up what I am saying. People I have learned from are who are so smart, all SME's.

Yes JP, Das Reich made the first synthetics out of necessity,...................
 

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Oh wow, didnt know you were a left leaning snowflake !??

The above is a foray into ingnorance and ranting. (Just remember, you drew first insult). Well Im not going to insult you.

This is why he is wrong...........oh brother.

1 .Nothing I professed has anything to do with Donald Trump.
2. All the facts I have related to you are not my opinion either. They were related to me by an oil industry insider, one John Murray the inventor and owner of CERMA. These items were given to me in 2013 !!! Yes the middle of the Obama administration. Murray had just returned from Washington DC where he had been present for his CERMAs certification/testing/analysis by the dept of energy.
3. John Murray has over 55 years in the automotive industry. He is a full mechanical and chemical engineer. So yes he knows absolutely whats going on.
4. The US automotive industry he speaks of died for all intensive purposes in 2007-2008. What replaced it was a realization that what the ASIAN and GERMAN auto industries had been doing from the 90's into the 2000's was the way to go. Smaller more effiecient more powerful powerplants. This was also true as it related to the warranty coverages.

So no, Royal Purple couldnt evolve, they had no replacment for what the EPA had forbidden them for doing anymore.
****Interestingly enough, Royal Purple did try to buy CERMAs patents in 2008, and Johns company. So have alot of other bigger oil company's But John refuses, loves working, and loves cars period.
The fact that all his CERMA stuff is environmentally beneficial is a side effect, not the goal. The way it should be. True American innovation.
John has also had to sue for patent infringement several times. The Ceratec crap is a EU owned company and is much harder to litigate.for him. Any of you can fact check me by just calling him, if you do hold on to your hat !!!!!!!
When it comes to my Genesis T:
***I only espouse traits/practices and behavior learned with successful anecdotal experience to back up what I am saying. People I have learned from are who are so smart, all SME's.

Yes JP, Das Reich made the first synthetics out of necessity,...................
Well now someone has presented another opinion. , .is what you are saying is the original additives were outlawed & whomever couldn't come up w/ suitable replacements ? please though I don't want any unpleasantness.
 

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Whats in question is why Royal Purple started sucking. The aforementioned author mistakenly categorized their previous add packs as the old high phosphorous and ZDDP additives. This is not correct. Royal Purple had a proprietary add pack with compounds that the then OBAMA EPA made illegal. These were beyond what he mentions. They pretty much were out of luck.

The nastiness comes when you out of hand with no facts refer to someones account as Trumpism, when it is nothing of the sort.

Anyone can have an opinion, but what is that opinion based on. Everything I wrote for you is fact. From an industry insider.
 

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Trump should have been left out of it. Epa spurs innovation while limiting bad stuff. It's economic Darwinism. Capitalism with sensible regulation is ... sensible.
 

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Thank you. I knew everything I just spewed out was told to me in March of 2013,..................Trump wasn't even on the horizon then.

In fact John told me that Obama's commerce dept didn't like his invention. They told him that " it would depress industrial and automotive production". That cars would last too long. OMG if that doesn't take the cake.
John just laughed and took his EPA approved stuff to us, I'm thankful he did.
 

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Thank you. I knew everything I just spewed out was told to me in March of 2013,..................Trump wasn't even on the horizon then.

In fact John told me that Obama's commerce dept didn't like his invention. They told him that " it would depress industrial and automotive production". That cars would last too long. OMG if that doesn't take the cake.
John just laughed and took his EPA approved stuff to us, I'm thankful he did.
Gaijinn can you sum up about the" invention" what it does or is as i am trying to understand. Are we talking about additives or base stock types.I am anxious to leave any politics out, that is why i am reading this stuff. I worked heavy overhaul for major airline, & we rolled around barrels of synthetic oil ($25qt) nobody ever stole it to put in their car or bike did we mess up?
 

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Well if you had access to aviation grade synthetics, I guarantee they were pure PAO base. That because of the temps involved in anything aviation related. Now I dont know the applications you used it for, what grade and or viscosity it was but lets just say what you were rolling around is far better than anything available in any retail auto parts place/store.


To answer your question on a summation of CERMA. The treatments and the oils are a system which:

1. Literally treats the actual metal (ferrous/non-ferrous) in the internals of any motor.
2. The active proprietary ingredients are not solids of any kind. They chemically/thermally- bind/form on all internal surfaces, but with a particular affinity to surfaces that are subject to high heat/friction. In other words the more stress its subject to, thats where CERMA will bind/fill.
3. The STM3 which is what the active agent is called is silicon based. So in rough laymans terms think of it as a "diamond coating" on your internals. The STM3 coating also improves the thermal conduction capability of the metal itself, so heat transfer becomes more efficient.
4. CERMA also has chems {CARBON GUARD} which make the carbon produced as a byproduct of internal combustion clump together. In all oils produced today the carbon is suspended in detergents. Your filter can only catch things 45 microns and larger. So the oil keeps all that crap circulating around as long as you keep said oil, for said interval.
Carbonguard causes the carbon to cling to each other, not your motor, so the oil stays clean. The clumps of carbon are now salvageable by your filter media. This is not theory, it works. So on a normally aspirated car CERMA oil is good for 15,000 miles. YES 15,000 miles. All you do is change your oil filter every 5K, top off a filled new filter, and thats your oil change for three 5K cycles. If you use CERMAX its good for 30,000 miles, yes six 5K filter only topped off.
** So my ex-fiance s dad bought a brand new top of the line Lexus. Because of me he treated it with CERMA, and went to CERMAX. At the time he commuted between Chicago IL and Batesville IN every weekend. He kept it in there for 30K, only changing the filter every 5K. At the full 30,000 miles of use, he then went to his LEXUS dealer for a scheduled major service, asked them to look at the oil. They said, "its fine it looks like new".
He then informed them that it was 30K old. They could not believe it. They drained it and put in new CERMAX, and were astonished.
**Turbo charged cars can not do this because of fuel dilution and blowby which contaminates the oil. In my case using pure methanol, is why I change every 3K.


I wrote this for my Veloster Turbo forum several years ago. This because there were naysayers and old dog cant learn new tricks know-it-alls on the forum. Eventually, anyone who tried the stuff, loved the stuff, and all his or her vehicles would end up being treated.



Hopefully this summarizes for you what it can and does do. I have 11 years experience with this stuff. Oh my AC in my home is treated with it as well. My monthly AC (full utility ekectric) in the heat of the summer on 68 F in a 2,00 sq ft home is 45.00 a month, Go to the site, read all the testimonials/blogs, you will be amazed).

Walks away,..........mic drop.😊
 

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This sounds a little bit like the origional Mobil 1 that came in a metal can. I remember working in a full service Mobil gas station in the early 80's and selling those oil changes good for 30K, just change the filter every 3K and add about a quart. It was a hard sell at $5.00 a quart, (unheard of cost back then) but the stuff worked, the only problem was possible oil leaks from the cars at the time used to 10W40 or 20W50 dino oil. I remember proping the empty cans up to get the last drops out untill i saved up a full can. 😁
 

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Well if you had access to aviation grade synthetics, I guarantee they were pure PAO base. That because of the temps involved in anything aviation related. Now I dont know the applications you used it for, what grade and or viscosity it was but lets just say what you were rolling around is far better than anything available in any retail auto parts place/store.


To answer your question on a summation of CERMA. The treatments and the oils are a system which:

1. Literally treats the actual metal (ferrous/non-ferrous) in the internals of any motor.
2. The active proprietary ingredients are not solids of any kind. They chemically/thermally- bind/form on all internal surfaces, but with a particular affinity to surfaces that are subject to high heat/friction. In other words the more stress its subject to, thats where CERMA will bind/fill.
3. The STM3 which is what the active agent is called is silicon based. So in rough laymans terms think of it as a "diamond coating" on your internals. The STM3 coating also improves the thermal conduction capability of the metal itself, so heat transfer becomes more efficient.
4. CERMA also has chems {CARBON GUARD} which make the carbon produced as a byproduct of internal combustion clump together. In all oils produced today the carbon is suspended in detergents. Your filter can only catch things 45 microns and larger. So the oil keeps all that crap circulating around as long as you keep said oil, for said interval.
Carbonguard causes the carbon to cling to each other, not your motor, so the oil stays clean. The clumps of carbon are now salvageable by your filter media. This is not theory, it works. So on a normally aspirated car CERMA oil is good for 15,000 miles. YES 15,000 miles. All you do is change your oil filter every 5K, top off a filled new filter, and thats your oil change for three 5K cycles. If you use CERMAX its good for 30,000 miles, yes six 5K filter only topped off.
** So my ex-fiance s dad bought a brand new top of the line Lexus. Because of me he treated it with CERMA, and went to CERMAX. At the time he commuted between Chicago IL and Batesville IN every weekend. He kept it in there for 30K, only changing the filter every 5K. At the full 30,000 miles of use, he then went to his LEXUS dealer for a scheduled major service, asked them to look at the oil. They said, "its fine it looks like new".
He then informed them that it was 30K old. They could not believe it. They drained it and put in new CERMAX, and were astonished.
**Turbo charged cars can not do this because of fuel dilution and blowby which contaminates the oil. In my case using pure methanol, is why I change every 3K.


I wrote this for my Veloster Turbo forum several years ago. This because there were naysayers and old dog cant learn new tricks know-it-alls on the forum. Eventually, anyone who tried the stuff, loved the stuff, and all his or her vehicles would end up being treated.



Hopefully this summarizes for you what it can and does do. I have 11 years experience with this stuff. Oh my AC in my home is treated with it as well. My monthly AC (full utility ekectric) in the heat of the summer on 68 F in a 2,00 sq ft home is 45.00 a month, Go to the site, read all the testimonials/blogs, you will be amazed).

Walks away,..........mic drop.😊
 

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How do you treat the AC ? I assume you mean the compressor,which uses refrigerant oil and in a specific type & quantity..Opening the system requires vacuuming it down,adding refrigerant & oil so how do you treat the compressor & does the treatment affect the cooling cycle stuff like does it get in the receiver dryer or coils ? I would love to find something that would help (variable speed , rotary compressor) 105 oklahoma summers.
 

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Its very simple , the AC kit works on any car or residential system. Its also rids your need to install driers of any kind. Once in there is no more moisture, EVER.(Unleess you system gets a leak.). No vacuuming or new oil needed. Your merely pushing a few ounces of theCERMA into the system. Then you run it for 24 hours, (So putting this in when its hot is ideal). The kit comes with the tool you need, its awesome. When John created this he used an ice company in Arizona as his guinea pig. It cut their power bill in HALF ! Fact, verifiable.
 

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in
Its very simple , the AC kit works on any car or residential system. Its also rids your need to install driers of any kind. Once in there is no more moisture, EVER.(Unleess you system gets a leak.). No vacuuming or new oil needed. Your merely pushing a few ounces of theCERMA into the system. Then you run it for 24 hours, (So putting this in when its hot is ideal). The kit comes with the tool you need, its awesome. When John created this he used an ice company in Arizona as his guinea pig. It cut their power bill in HALF ! Fact, verifiable.
interesting,
Its very simple , the AC kit works on any car or residential system. Its also rids your need to install driers of any kind. Once in there is no more moisture, EVER.(Unleess you system gets a leak.). No vacuuming or new oil needed. Your merely pushing a few ounces of theCERMA into the system. Then you run it for 24 hours, (So putting this in when its hot is ideal). The kit comes with the tool you need, its awesome. When John created this he used an ice company in Arizona as his guinea pig. It cut their power bill in HALF ! Fact, verifiable.
what, you just inject it through the high? or low? side schrader valve?
 
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