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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Background: I bought my GC new in July 2012. It has been modified since the day I bought it and currently has 90,000mi. I've had all 3 stages of BTR tunes. I am at the point where I felt like in order to get more out of the car I was going to have to make a decision on where to go next. Do I build the engine? Do I sell it and buy something else? Or should I try an LS swap. I weighed all of the pros and cons and decided to try the LS swap. I am coming into this with zero experience swapping engines or with the LS platform, but I have been doing as much researching as possible. Cars are just a hobby for me and I'm by no means an expert. I have 4 vehicles and the GC is mostly used as something fun to drive to work in the summer. I participate in a few charity rallies each year as well. I am working on this swap over the winter and hoping to have it ready for this coming spring 2020. I'm not really a social media guy, but I do upload to Instagram when I make progress, feel free to check that as well: OnePunch4Brunch (@onepunch4brunch) • Instagram photos and videos

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Car: 2013 Genesis Coupe 2.0T R-Spec
Current Performance Mods:
  • BTR Stage 3 GTX3076 @ 24psi
  • MXP exhaust manifold
  • 3" Custom turbo back
  • Synapse BOV
  • Injen Intake
  • BK1 Intake Manifold
  • 4.18 final drive w/ LSD
  • Snow Performance Stage 2 meth kit
  • Slotted and dimpled rotors
  • Prosport EVO (Boost, Wideband, Oil temp) gauges
LS Swap Build:
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  • Engine:
    • 6.0 LY6 Gen IV (from a 2008 Silverado 2500HD), rebuilt with:
      • Summit Pro LS forged pistons
      • Clevite main bearings
      • Clevite rod bearings
      • ARP rod bolts
      • LS7 lifters and trays
      • LS9 headgaskets
      • PAC-1218 valve springs
      • BTR valve stem seals
      • Melling high volume oil pump
      • ARP head bolts
      • LSA harmonic balancer
      • CTS-V water pump
      • CTSV FEAD
      • VVT delete
      • LS9 camshaft
      • Reconditioned Gen IV rods
      • Stock push rods
      • Stock rockers
  • Transmission/Drivetrain:
    • T-56 from 2004 GTO
    • Monster Stage 3 single disc clutch (700whp/700wtq)
    • ATQ differential bushing kit and brace
    • OEM 4.181 differential w/ Hyundai LSD
    • GM bellhousing
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  • Swap kit:
    • Sikky oil pan
    • Sikky 5.5" shifter relocation
    • Sikky headers
    • Sikky remote oil filter kit
    • 1 piece aluminum driveshaft
    • Sikky billet engine mounts (urethane bushings)
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  • Supercharger:
    • Complete LSA takeoff supercharger from ZL1
    • Stock pulleys
    • Stock heat exchanger and pump
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Engine Control:
  • Holley Terminator X Max
Fueling:
  • TBD
Power Goals:
  • Initial goal is somewhere in the 500-600 whp/wtq range. The engine is built to withstand far more than that, but that was my intent. At some point in the future after I've worked out any bugs I will look at pulley swaps and work towards the 600-700 whp/wtq range and probably let it sit there. I'm not trying to make this the fastest car on the road, I just want reliable fun that is decently competitive in my charity rallies.
Status as of 1/27/20:
  • Disassembled junkyard LY6. Found out a cam bearing was seized to the camshaft
  • Cleaned and painted engine block
  • Bead blasted heads
  • Polished valve covers
  • Short block rebuilt by Wheeler Racing Engines (See parts list above)
  • Long block completely assembled
  • Next step will be removing the old 2.0T engine and prepping the bay for the LS.
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I am open to any feedback or tips, again, I don't claim to be an expert. I am still trying to figure out the wiring portion of this as well, and I now its going to depend on how much of the gauge cluster functionality I want to maintain.

More to come....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Just something to think about :D
That's pretty slick, but it costs more than I paid for the whole transmission lol. For now I'll be using the Sikky shifter. Supposedly it will line up with the factory shifter location on the GC so I shouldn't have to do any cutting. It feels like a pretty good piece, but I'll be sure to provide feedback once I have it installed.
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Impressive. I wish I had the balls and knowledge to pull off a build like this. Can't wait to see the end product!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Impressive. I wish I had the balls and knowledge to pull off a build like this. Can't wait to see the end product!
Well, I had/have no experience in doing a swap like this, but to me the best way to learn is to just jump in. I've been reading up as much as I can for the better part of a year before I actually bought any parts. My original intent for this build was much less exciting and way less expensive, but when I found the cam bearing was seized to the cam and had to remove the entire rotating assembly I just decided to give it a fresh rebuild...then I happened upon a complete LSA supercharger setup and now here we are with a budget that is about double what I planned on spending.


UPDATE:
  • Mocked up the front end accessory drive tonight. I'm using the FEAD from a Corvette C5 since the drive belt is on the same spacing as the LSA FEAD.
    • One area of concern I have will be with the alternator. I'm hoping its not sticking out too far to interfere with the fuse box in the GC.
  • I also installed the harmonic damper. I wasn't able to install the final bolt because I still need to pin the crank. The pin kit I bought was missing the drill guide so I need to get that before I can finish the install.
  • Set the supercharger on the engine to check for any areas of interference.
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
UPDATE:
  • Starting the removal of the 2.0T. I'm trying to be thoughtful on how I take things off so that I can make sure the parts are packaged up correctly for when it comes time to sell off pieces. Not a ton of room left in my garage since I have a truck, a full size SUV, the Genesis, and all of the LS swap parts laying around.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
UPDATE:
  • Pulled the engine a few weeks ago. Engine and transmission came out as one unit. For anyone looking at pulling the engine in the future, it is extremely easy on this car.
  • Next step is cleaning up the unused wiring, piping, and hoses before setting the LS in for mock up.
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I really wanna know a ballpark of how much the whole thing would cost, I have my cdl so I barely have time to work on it Myself I’d have to have my shop do it
 

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shorttrack
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Nice!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yea I am but what's your budget, I'm trying to Gauge how much I'll need to start my ls3 dream build
Well, I'm not exactly trying to penny pinch on this build so there are a lot of places you can save money if you like hunting around for used stuff or different quality parts. My build is probably in the ball park of $15,000, but again I'm not they guy who waits around for all of the good deals to pop up. I find what I want and just buy it. I could have gone more expensive in areas too.

Many other will tell you about how they can do it for a few grand and then when you look at their build thread they mention how their friend gave them an LS3 free or they found a built T-56 for $1,000, etc... deals that you're not likely to find.
  • Not rebuilding the engine would have saved me $2000-$3000 (machine work, assembly, and parts)
  • Not supercharging would have saved me probably $5000 (Supercharger kit, higher strength clutch requirements, higher fueling requirements, etc...)
  • Using a GM ECM instead of the Holley Terminator X Max would have saved $1,000
  • The Sikky kit is more expensive than the Enjuku kit
For just an LS3 swap, if you do the work yourself, you shouldn't have an issue staying under $10,000. If you have to pay someone to do the work then it will be substantially more.
 

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Someone has $$$$. This build is sweet! I went enjuku for the savings, but rebuilding the motor is where i have spent most of my budget. How do you plan on wiring it up? Just 1 ecu?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
UPDATE:
  • Accessory drive complete. Found out that the Corvette accessories won't fit without hitting the fuse box so I ended up changing to CTSV accessories. Truck block didn't have all of the holes for the alternator bracket so I had to drill and tap a hole for it to work.
  • Installed the 1-piece aluminum driveshaft.
  • Started running wires for the Holley Terminator X Max. Major pain running them through the firewall. Once I have all of the wires ran then I'll seal up the hole.
  • Truck coil bracket doesn't work with the LSA supercharger because the harness plugs hit the fuel rail. Bought a billet bracket that moves the coils down about 1.5 inches.
  • Installed power steering lines. Found out that OEM PS hardliners hit my Sikky oil pan so I'm using AN fittings.
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shorttrack
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Good job . Outstanding .
 

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shorttrack
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Hope you address the differential 4th bushing mount .With 3 mounting points only holding the diff in place , if you install performance rim/tires combo out back you could snatch the diff out , doing damage .It is a easy mod to do .Does not require installing a sedan subframe .If you go to the GDI nitrouse thread I gave info and parts needed to make the 4th mount doable and workable . To do all this work to gain power and having it wasted on wheel hop or breakage due to the diff dancing around would be no good .
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hope you address the differential 4th bushing mount .With 3 mounting points only holding the diff in place , if you install performance rim/tires combo out back you could snatch the diff out , doing damage .It is a easy mod to do .Does not require installing a sedan subframe .If you go to the GDI nitrouse thread I gave info and parts needed to make the 4th mount doable and workable . To do all this work to gain power and having it wasted on wheel hop or breakage due to the diff dancing around would be no good .
Fully agree, the rear-end has definitely been on my mind. Even with the gtx3076 I could feel the entire drivetrain twisting underneath from a launch. I ordered the ATQ Differential Bushing kit to add a 4th mount and replace the rest of the bushings with high durometer poly. I don't know how it will function, but I liked the idea of the additional bracing on the subframe as well.

The aluminum driveshaft doesn't have the rubber guibos so that should help with drivetrain flex too.

My guess is if the new bushings work as intended, the axles will be the weak point, but I'll deal with that when the time arrives.

I'm no expert on any of this though, I'm learning as I go. I'm kind of throwing money at things and seeing what works.
 

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shorttrack
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I launched hard at the strip with my set up . On spray and 4.18:1 ring and pinion with supporting mods I managed low 1.80's 60ft during my 11.57 1/4 ET . No wheel hop. The ATQ bolt in billet frame 4th mount set up looks to be well thought out . DSS in North Carolina is the spot for the half shafts . Can be sourced through Genracer , GCtuner and others .
 
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