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Discussion Starter #1
IM BACK! I've gone from a 2011 Genesis Coupe 3.8 Track with several LS configurations (LS1, LS3, supercharged LS3 - HERE IS MY ORIGINAL THREAD WITH BROKEN PICS), to a GTO ( FULL BUILD THREAD ), 300zx ( FULL BUILD THREAD ), to a Corvette Grand Sport, Evo 8, and then I found myself back in a 2011 Genesis Coupe GT! In an effort to bring more consistency to YouTube (and my life), I've decided to do a full in depth build on Youtube and in this forum from start to finish. My first sports car was a genesis, my first car crash was a genesis, my first time wiring was a genesis, my first LS swap was a genesis, and the list goes on.... it feels good to be back.

My YouTube AND Instagram is LS3_LaFlare , feel free to hit me up with any questions, comments, concerns here or anywhere else!

My goal for this thread and YouTube videos is to guide a "POOR NOOB" through the steps needed to LS swap a Genesis Coupe, in depth, with text, visuals, and videos, from fuel, to electronics/wiring, cam install, etc... Stop paying for labor with this relatively easy process! If you're asking yourself who is this guy.. here is some of my work:

LS1, my first swap in 2016
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N/A LS3 in 2017
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LSA Supercharger, ZL1 lid, LS3 - ~600wtq blew the trans and the diff had fluid under it so this is when I parted out - 2018
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But okay.. lets get started!

I wanted another Genesis Coupe to swap but I ONLY wanted a BK2 track model... but I ended up with a BK1 GT. I'm 28 and the military and rolling around a garage for four years straight has taken its toll.. I am an old 28 and want my creature comforts! Leather seats, NAV, decent stock sound system, sunroof, push start etc... but instead of trying to find a blown up or shell, I settled. I found a rear ended but clean title 2011 Genesis Coupe 3.8 GT, it was pretty beat. The infamous Bobby (guy who does all the body / paint work for every car I've had since 2016) offered to take me to see the car and I couldn't refuse, he was huge help because he was able to see the damage himself since he'd be the one working the magic. It was listed at $4600, I talked him down to $3800, then $3300 after seeing the condition in person. Torn up and painted seats, bondo'd trunk, shot front bumper were the obvious issues, but I decided it was worth the trouble at that price. I would also have to swap in a LSD and Brembos! For all the bad, it has Raceland coilovers (yuck - but it rides nice enough for me to leave them for now), aftermarket wheels (not my taste but I can sell them), full exhaust (can reuse the axle back), good tail lights, strong 3.8/Auto drivetrain for someone who needs it, and again, it was $3300. Here it is:

What is sad about this pic of me driving home is another black genesis coupe drove by me with a missing bumper as well LOL
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cont...
 

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Discussion Starter #2
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Along with the Genesis Coupe, I also picked up a L92 engine. A L92 is a 6.2 liter aluminum LS based engine, with VVT, from a GMC Yukon. It was a core from 'top end noise', which turned out to be two detonated pistons. I could shave down the fragments and slap it back together and it'd run strong, but I will be replacing the two bum pistons, maybe the cam bearings, maybe not, but either way it was money well spent for a gamble ( I paid $1,000 for it). At the same time I picked up the L92, I bought a LSA supercharger core and a CTSV lid with a reinforced brick. I got bent over on the price as I dropped a ridiculous $2300 on it (bad isolator, easy fix), but it was local, a good seller, and given the current market I'd say I overpaid by about $300 bucks.

Always wear your seatbelt! LOL
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Look between the 11 o'clock and 3'oclock, and 5-6 o'clock positions to see the piston missing a piece (do not confuse the piston reliefs as damage - compression is lowered to 10.5-1 vs 10.7-1 or a true LS3). This is piston #4
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Piston #6 also fell victim to detonation is looks like, and the chunks of piston was contacting the cylinder head causing a 'tapping' sound. Again, I could shave the shrapnel down and run this engine as is without issue, but I will replace these pistons.
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Discussion Starter #3
Here is the first episode! Intro / overview of the Genesis, L92 teardown, and CTSV supercharger brief look.

 

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Discussion Starter #4
So made a couple parts runs. Brembos, rotors, oil filter relocation, McLeod clutch/flywheel, door cards, push button section, trunk pieces, BK2 hood, BK2 headlights and some other misc parts. Now I am just needing new seats

Funny story: All of the interior pieces pictured came off of the first Genesis Coupe I swapped, then parted out the shell! LOL the OG gencoupe will live on still!

If all goes to plan, I will pick up seats and be able to restore the interior this week.

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Discussion Starter #6
What's wrong with the door cards.... besides them being painted?
The driver door handle is peeled badly, the padded area around the armrest is loose and cover halfway off, and someone used wood screws on the inside of the door and they are poking through. It looks atrocious lol
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Episode 2 just dropped! This covered rebuilding the LSA supercharger - replacing the spring loaded isolator with a solid isolator, changing the oil, discussing prices, history, why these isolators failed etc..

I will add a pics with steps tomorrow in this thread to supplement the YouTube video. Enjoy!

 

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Discussion Starter #9
@#[email protected]#$% Sick man.

Love dem LS engines!!! I miss my camaro but still happy i got my 02 z06.

Lets see some videos of it ripping up the shvault!
There are vids of my old LS swapped and supercharged Genesis (blue) on my Youtube. This new one is being done step by step in this thread, its not done yet lol.........
 
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Discussion Starter #10
I was going to add a step by step with pics but unfortunately I didn't take pics as I went and was just going to take screenshots of the video I have up on YouTube. But the screenshots are blurry so just check the video out lol
Here is a brief run down:

LSA 1.9 liter Supercharger w/ CTSV lid and reinforced brick
I picked it up for $2300 locally, maybe $300 too high since the isolator was bad, but it was a simple enough fix. People are picking up these cores for $250 from GM and flipping them lol but that is about the going rate now (supercharger base usually goes for $1400 from what I've seen, ZL1 lid new is $560, used CTSV lid ~400, and my lid came reinforced).

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Here is one of the blurry screenshots I was talking about. In my right hand is the proper solid isolator to use. Other versions can rattle on cold starts, or worse! It is a genuine fix from Eaton, who makes the supercharger. The spring loaded isolator in my left hand is what fails and sounds like marbles at idle. I guess in theory it the spring loaded isolator was to dampen forces when going WOT, like a longevity thing. If you watch the video and see the failed isolator in action, then the solid isolator, it'll make more sense.

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Discussion Starter #11
I knocked out my brembos install today. I was recording everything then decided to scrap the footage... it was a 1 out of 5 on a scale with 1 being easy, 5 being difficult. There were already a few videos on it on YouTube BUT I will give some pointers out. Everything is literally a straight shot... for the most part!


2011 Genesis Coupe GT (non-brembo)

I picked up these brembos locally from Matt Haugen (dope drifter, probably the first LS swapped genesis, too! - look him up) for $700 and they came with StopTech slotted rotors, EBC Blue Stuff brake pads, and rear stainless steel lines (I didn't use them). He was super helpful and had a few more parts that I picked up from him, but that is for another time lol

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Everything up front is a breeze - literally swap everything over from caliper mounting bolts, to the brake line bolt EXCEPT:

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On the left is a brembo brake hose bolt, the right is a non-brembo bolt. It has ONE small hole... I didn't have anymore brembo bolts (only one came with the brembos), so I pulled out a 1/4" drill bit and got to work!

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Left is modified non brembo bolt, right is OEM brembo bolt. Just be sure to deburr the bolt if you use the drill method. Tighten the brake line bolt to 18ft/lbs.

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Front done. No need to even cut the brake shield! Eazy-Peezy!

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Rears needed some cutting of the brake shield, otherwise it was a straight forward swap. I recommend a 17MM ratcheting wrench if you have coilovers (may even be the same with stock suspension, but I never did this with stock suspension...), because the bottom mounting caliper bolt is in an awkward spot where my shitty tools couldn't quite fit.

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Brembo upgrade complete!

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Discussion Starter #12
Rear bumper, front bumper (BK2 conversion) is off at Bobby's being fixed/painted. I was one my way to buy an OEM rear bumper with the spoiler (my personal favorite), but the seller didn't answer in time so I turned back home. The trunk that came with the car was shaved, but it wasn't in good shape. I elected to bring it to Bobby for repair, but that turned into a possible custom duckbill! So its coming along.


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The engine is almost ready to be pulled, but I am tired, so I called it a night - I'll yank it tomorrow (S/O to my bro Charles, came through and chopped it up with me and lent a hand yanking stuff off the engine)! I am trading the engine for a BK2 core support. I'm going to pull the A/C compressor, intake, throttle body, and alternator and sell that separately to make a few extra bucks. Also, the BK1 auto trans is up for trade / sale if you are in Arizona. PM me. I'll have a lot of stock parts as well if needed!

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I got the 3.8/auto trans pulled today, and the new owner took it home shortly after (traded it for a BK2 core support). I was reckless with the cutting of the harness, but careful enough not to cut the items needed for the swap. Tomorrow I'll probably clean the engine bay and take a 3-part YouTube video (part 1 trim engine harness, part two interior wiring/laying LS harness, and part three fuel pump and HPtuners prep work).

The good stuff is coming, I promise

This chain setup looks a lil sketch to the average DIYer, but I've done it so many times that I'm numb to common sense. Some keep it, but I immediately removed the smaller fuse box on the passenger side.

The beauty of the GenCoupe is the whole front end comes off that makes things easy. Only car that I've had that does this!
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This 3.8 is a boat. So much bigger than the 6.2 liter V8 that is replacing it.

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Discussion Starter #14
Sorry for the lack of updates. I've been running around buying/selling parts. R-spec seats, swap kit, pedals, fbody T56, some odds and ends. Most notably I picked up a ready to go LS2 short block to use while I rebuild the L92. LS2 is a aluminum 6.0! Couldn't pass on it. I will most likely use it and swap it out when the L92 is ready and keep the LS2 as a backup. Or sell. Idk yet.

It is out of a 2008 Trailblazer SS with 80,000 miles. I now have four engines in my garage lmao

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Tackled a majority of the interior yesterday. Took plenty of pics so I will detail what I did as I go:


This was the interior to begin with. Torn and painted seats, painted door panels with screws protruding from the inside of the panel, peeling handles etc., but again, I paid $3300 for the car and mentally already came to terms with having to upgrade.

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I started with the door panels!

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Ugly trash. SMH.

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I have the panels from my original LS swapped genesis (the baby blue Genesis). Great condition, just dusty.

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Installed. Super easy install, but a few tips:
-Remove screw from behind cover behind handle, and the 'pocket' above the fuel/trunk buttons (use flathead)
-Stick flathead between door and panel and pull, it just pops out from there along the outside
-Anticipate the door dropping once detached, it fell the first time and just put undue stress on the connectors
-Depress/pull the tab for the cables going to the handle and lock/unlock lever above handle - initially I unscrewed it
-Reinstall new! Hyundai has this stuff down to a simple science, this has been one of the more enjoyable swaps.
-Clean everything up now

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The push button on the car was peeling, and the panel it rests on looks as if it was painted black. SMH.

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New (from my old genesis) on the bottom, old on top.

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To remove this panel, simply remove the two screws the the bottom left and right, then, even though it won't feel like it is the right thing to do, pull the panel outwards. Disconnect everything, reconnect to new panel/pushbutton etc., and install.

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Its the little things!

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Discussion Starter #16
IMPORTANT: If you have a push start automatic, this part applies to you!!!! This will also apply to those doing a manual conversion, whether keeping the 2.0/3.8, or LS swapping. If LS swapping with an AUTOMATIC, you should attach these wires to your NEW LS shifter ONLY IF AUTOMATIC AND LOOKING TO KEEP 100% OEM FUNCTION.

When you disassemble the automatic shifter, and man I apologize for not taking more pics, flip it upside down and you'll see a large switch (in the picture you can see much smaller switches). To make sure it is the right one, depress the switch and cycle the power. If it cycles to accessories, on, off, then that is the correct switch! Now release the switch and cycle power and you will see it is stuck in an endless loop of accessories/on - IT WONT TURN OFF.

Find the two wires (green and brown on my index finger - pictured below), and simply strip and tie them together. Now cycle power and you'll see it goes accessories/on/off like it should.

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Now, what I did next was disconnect the pigtail connector, follow the wires (green and black - pictured below tied) and cut/splice them together.

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I wrapped them with electrical tape, then wrapped the harness and tucked it. Now you have a properly functioning push start button. I will be researching today on how to get it from 90% functionality, to 100% functionality with foot on brake to start the LS engine.

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Next up, since this was an automatic, you'll need to do some cutting to make way for the shifter extension. Now, I am going off shoddy memory - I last had this done in 2016, but I remember having to cut 3x because it wasn't rectangular enough. This will all make sense if you've seen the shifter extension.

I just used a simple cutoff wheel, it cut like butter, but three tips:
-TUCK THE HARNESSES AROUND THE SHIFTER AREA!!!! You do not want to accidentally cut a harness in half, it is a tedious task to repair if so.
-Please wear eye protection, and hearing protection - it is a small area you are cutting!!! Shrapnel (little tiny pieces of metal / sparks are flying every direction in a tight area.
-Have a fire extinguisher handy, just in case

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The shifter area is layered, top thicker metal, bottom is thin. Cut the top layer first. I aimed for a rectangular shape

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Bottom layer:

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Cut bottom layer:

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Should look something like this. Disregard the OEM driveshaft... Still haven't removed it LOL we can address this area later when trans is in.

Be careful, if you look closely you'll see I nicked the keyless entry sensor (when I googled the name written on it, that popped up, not sure if that is correct but be careful regardless - it is directly above the cut)

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Discussion Starter #18
Next up: installing clutch pedal and switching the wider auto brake pedal to the narrow brake pedal


If you look closely, you can see Hyundai made cutouts for the manual pedal, even on automatics.

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Yank out the piece of foam, take a hole saw (I used a 2-3/8" hole saw) and make a hole where pre-stamped(?). I also used a 1/4" inch drill to make way for the three bolts. You'll need to cut a bit more to make the hole sorta oblong to clear the reservoir if installing it all assembled like I did.

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Here is the wilwood, wilwood adapter, and clutch pedal look like assembled (courtesy of my old IG posts from the OG LS Genesis)

DO NOT USE YOUR OEM HYUNDAI CLUTCH MASTER BECAUSE IT WILL FAIL AND LEAVE YOU STUCK SOMEWHERE. I TRIED, SO I AM SPEAKING FROM EXPERIENCE.

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New clutch and brake pedal installed. I recommend seats be removed for this portion because I was laying on my side/back for most of this. It sucks. Brake pedal is super simple, its 4 nuts, one bolt (top).

Notice the size difference in automatic pedal (on floor mat), and a manual pedal (installed). On one of my dyno videos, you'll notice the brake lights flicker every time my tuner shifts - I had the auto brake pedal on and it interferes with the manual pedal due to them being so close to each other.

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Discussion Starter #19
Finally, the interior upgrades, cutting, drilling etc are done. I will be working on fuel pump, cleaning up engine bay, wiring in the engine bay etc today... but for now, the interior is SOOOO MUCH BETTER.

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Discussion Starter #20
Today's mission... Clean N Cut!

Pushed the Gen out into the driveway to remove the power steering reservoir, power steering lines, windshield washer bottle, A/C lines, and scrub the engine bay clean - there was a power steering leak that left caked dirt everywhere. If your power steering is leaking fix it ASAP... this is the second donor vehicle I've had with a PS leak and it SUCKS. It cakes everything.

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It took an entire bottle of Pinesol, and some Fabuloso, and some elbow grease, but I got about 80% of the grime and grit out. I should've removed the engine mounts, but eh, I can wash it again after.

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Now this part is optional, because you can leave the passenger side fusebox, and the ECU connectors in... But WHY would you want to? Declutter the engine bay! The passenger side fuse box serves no purpose because the LSx harness will control (and provide relays for) the fuel pump, ignition (when tied into Hyundai harness), etc... USELESS.

BE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE POS CABLE FROM THE BATTERY


I started by removing the passenger side fuse box (well, I did that when I pulled the engine), just disconnect the harness from the passenger side fusebox, and disconnect the GENESIS ECU from the two connectors (one will come off with the passenger side fuse box easy peezy).

Then I removed the pieces that protected the harnesses (plastic boxes around the harness). This part was difficult at first but then I learned the trick - get a SMALL flathead, push it between the clips and twist it to break them free. There are a few of them in various locations, with the driver side having some hidden.

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Take a box cutter and remove the tape and cut the loom to free the wires, and once you have the harness exposed feel free to just cut the pigtail off to the harness that went into the passenger side fusebox. It will look something like this:

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I went ahead and took a box cutter to the remaining ECU connector, being sure not to harm any wires that still went into the cabin, wheel well, main fusebox (driver side).

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The mess will look something like this. From here all you need to do is pull the loose wires out, cut unused wires short and wrap in electrical tape, and reloom/tape the harness neatly. I will continue this tomorrow!

To reiterate. My plan is to have everything working 100%, with a neat engine bay. So deleting unnecessary wiring is important to me. Tomorrow I will finish phase one of wiring, remove OEM engine mounts, remove OEM driveshaft, and if I can grab head gaskets and head bolts, drop the engine/trans in!



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