Slave cylinder showed up! Needed this to pair the T56 to the engine.
Notice the OEM bleeder, and the OEM clutch line fitting (fbody t56 slave cylinder). Remove the top simply by unscrewing the fitting, and remove the bottom by simply using a punch (I used a 1/16 impact drill bit, but whatever works) to knock out the pin, pull the fitting, the install the clutch line adapter and clutch line.
A slave cylinder from GM is around $180, buy a LuK slave cylinder for around $50. They are made in the same factory, evident by the "aP" marking. Whatever brand you use, DO NOT... I REPEAT... DO NOT use a slave cylinder without the "aP" stamp (pictured below). Dorman is one brand that comes WITHOUT the "aP" stamp, it is made in China and junk.
To make sense of everything, think LS7 lifters vs Delphi LS7 lifters - same manufacturing process in same plant, but with a different name. Zero difference in performance and looks.
I
HIGHLY suggest you follow this method - brands and length can be different, but follow this code:
-Top line is to bleed. Purchase or make a speed bleeder, this makes it super easy/cleaner to bleed the clutch! Bleeding process is simple - buddy press clutch, crack open bleeder, close bleeder, buddy let go of clutch pedal, and repeat a few times testing firmness of pedal. I kept this line short and I will zip tie it to the trans - even when it was in the cabin on various swaps, I still needed to have a buddy pump the clutch so I opted not to create clutter in the engine bay.
-Bottom line is the clutch line. I am using ISR's auto to manual conversion line, which is way too long! This will attach to the wilwood clutch master cylinder (DO NOT use the OEM clutch master cylinder!).
Ok, so now to pull the engine back out and add the clutch. I elected NOT to use my McCleod Mag Force twin disc clutch since it was ultra lightweight and holds 900ft/lbs of torque! It would be a little too much for my reserved build aka probably has horrible manners on the street. I snagged a used LS2 flywheel and bought an LS7 clutch from GM (military discount). LS7 clutches are known to hold upwards of 550-600whp / 500ish wtq, but, in my GTO it lasted about two drives and left me stranded at a car meet. The genesis will be about 3200lbs vs my GTO being 3800ish, so I think the LS7 will hold.
For a majority of the builds, the LS7 clutch will be more than enough, and is very cheap.
ARP bolts offer a peace of mind for higher HP builds. Flywheel and pressure plate bolts! The larger bolt is for the crank pulley, that'll be installed later.
Flywheel bolts call for loctite on the threads and ARP moly lube under the head of the bolt. I only use blue (heat and vibration resistance) loctite, personally... I don't believe in using red on things that have to come off. Blue is enough.
I used the alignment tool to align the disc, and then attach the pressure plate. Theaded in a few bolts to hold the pressure plate while I made sure everything was aligned before I installed the ARP bolts and cinched them down. Be careful not to slide the clutch on the ground like I did by it slipping out of my hands, the clutch forks hopefully are not bent smh.
With the clutch installed, I installed the T56 bellhousing. I find it easier to "hulk" the trans into place, whether under the car, or with engine/trans out of the car.
Best way is to stand over the T56, both hands on the front sides, lift and turn the trans clockwise and counterclockwise wiggling motion and it'll slide right in! Alight the dowel pins on the side, take a T56 to bell housing bolt, and get it started to pull the trans all the way in.
The T56 slave cylinder/TOB will naturally push against the clutch fork, not allowing you to fully seat it without bolts.
Make sure you add a bit of grease to the input shaft, pilot bearing (they come pre-greased), and top of TOB (throw out bearing)