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Discussion Starter #21
So just an update to the cutting. Got the Hyundai harness trimmed up, so now I can re-loom it later. I got the schematics to the push button and I believe I can get it functioning 100% and I will test that later! I gave insight on my instagram story to what I was thinking on how to get it to work but I'll keep it off this build thread until I get it to work 100% so I don't confuse anyone!



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Going to reuse a few brackets to hold it in place against the firewall, but for the most part this is all trash. I already verified that everything inside still works as it should.

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My next move is to get to putting the LS2 together, pairing it to the trans, and dropping it into the car for some mockup.

75889
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I got the LS2 dropped in last night. I have the L92 on the stand, iron 5.3 and iron 6.0 on the floor, so I put the LS2 in for space/ease of building it (I would've liked for it to be on the stand). Later today I'll record it being cleaned / put together along with some other highlights of the build.


Just a simple 2 bolts and a chain to hoist it up! Had to work with what I had to drop it in the genesis, but before I did that, I had to install the pickup tube, oil pump, and pan, since that cannot be done while it is in the car.
Some tips:
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Longer mount (ISR kit) goes on the driver side, while the shorter mount goes on the passenger side
-Install the engine mounts on the block
-Install the base of the engine mounts (remove the OEM engine mounts, obviously). It is three bolts to remove on each side for the OEM mounts, and three to install for LS mounts.
-Hover the block over the mounts, drop one side in, install the bolt to mate the engine mount to the base of the engine mount, then install the other side - you may need to raise/lower/shimmy each side so the bolt is angled correctly and slides through

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Again, an engine lift plate would be easier and keep it level, but the block is like sub 200lbs, and was easy to maneuver (fully dressed LS2 is 418lbs, this is only a short block and lighter oil pan). This looks sketchy, but if you do it enough times, its second nature.

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LS2 is in! Simple. Super easy. Again, this is more of a cleanup/build/mockup. I will remove it and pair the T56 to it, along with clutch etc...

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Man my garage is a mess. This is one reason I don't keep more than one build at a time smh. But anyway, it is moving along! Going to clean the garage up, get this engine / supercharger setup, mockup, wiring. yada yada....

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75895
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Used an entire bottle of Simple Green to wash all the dirt and grime off of the T56, with a small bristle brush to agitate the heavily caked areas. Simple rinsed off after and the dirt washed away. If you use this method, don't let the Simple Green sit too long, it'll react negatively with the aluminum case of the T56 and leave white spots.

I also installed the GTO shifter cup, required for the ISR shifter extension. Later today I plan on pairing it to the engine and installing it permanently - provided I don't have to do more cutting.



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I should've taken before pictures, but I got about 90% of the dirt and oil off. Looks great and doesn't leave my hands black when handling it. I do miss having a 6 speed manual (LSA z32 I had, I used a 5spd, then the Evo 8 had a built 5spd manual as well).

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While I was in a cleaning mood, I cleaned the 823 cylinder heads (same as true LS3 0821 heads, except the LS3 heads have lighter valves). I used Oven Cleaner to do this and the dirt/oil melted off. BUT IF YOU DECIDE TO USE IT, SPRAY ON, AGITATE, RINSE IMMEDIATELY - IT IS NOT RECOMMENDED FOR ALUMINUM AS IT WILL CORRODE AND LEAVE WHITE SPOTS IF ON TOO LONG. The heads were completely caked with dirt and oil before this!

They kinda look like **** in these pictures without a "before" to compare it to!

I did find a surprise....



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Remember the piston in the L92 suffered from detonation? Well here is where the broken piston bits got lodged, creating the "top end noise". I'll address this later.

75915
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Now after some cleaning, I prep the heads to be installed on the LS2!
Since I am using the LS9 camshaft, and had some unused GM Performance BLUE springs (.570 lift), I just threw them in. The LS9 cam specs (2009 ZR1 stock cam) are: 211/230 0.562"/0.558" lift 122.5 LSA (lobe separation angle), so the blue springs (probably 100 bucks new) will do the job, provided I keep RPM down to about 6200 redline, instead of the 7000 RPM redline I am accustomed to.



I tried using this tool, but no, the spring darted across the room along with the locks... luckily nobody was harmed (I was in my living room LOL), and I found the locks. I have another tool - but AVOID this tool here at all costs.

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Stock L92 (6.2 liter aluminum V8 truck from a Yukon) valve springs (LEFT) beside the GMPP Blue valve springs (RIGHT)

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This tool is inexpensive and effective!

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See the damage here from the piston detonating!

THERE IS ZERO DAMAGE TO THE VALVE, THE VALVE GUIDES, NOR THE SPARK PLUG HOLE/THREADS SO I WILL BE SANDING/SENDING IT!!!!

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75922
 

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Discussion Starter #25
NOW... Time to assemble the LS2.

With the LS2 dangling in the air, I installed the LS2 timing chain damper, oil pump, then pickup tube... finally the oil pan. I then dropped the LS2 back into the genesis. I did this because these items are damn near impossible to install with the engine still resting in the engine bay!

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OH! I also installed the pilot bearing for the T56, you can see its pretty beat because I used the good ole socket / hammer method. This LS2 came from a 2008 Trailblazer SS, so it was paired to an automatic, thus, I did not have to fight to remove an old pilot bearing.

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Unfortunately I could not take pictures of the LS9 cam install because I had to slag the cam with assembly lube! But I recorded it for when I make the next Youtube video... But with the cam installed, I installed a NEW cam retainer plate. It is important you buy a new cam retainer plate because there is a gasket on the other side and if it is reused you could suffer from low oil pressure due to the old gasket not sealing properly.

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Next up was the camshaft sprocket. The sprocket you use will depend solely on the reluctor wheel, this LS2 is 58x, therefore the camshaft sensor is up front. Note the raised lines/dots(?) on the camshaft sprocket for the camshaft sensor to read. I also installed the timing chain and lined up the cam sprocket and crank "dot to dot" (make sure piston #1 is TDC, and dot on cam sprocket is pointing downward).

For added insurance, rotate the crank 360* after you align it "dot to dot", to make sure it is still lined up. It is a stock cam, so "dot to dot" is all that is needed, unlike aftermarket cams, which need a degree wheel.

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Now, time to use a razor to remove the old gasket material off of the deck of the LS2. Be careful not to nick the block!

Before:

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After:

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I did the same with the cylinder heads, razor to remove old gasket material, then brake cleaner to wipe the surface down. I also sanded down the "shrapnel" from piston detonation, to ensure it won't contact the pistons of the LS2 and recreate the "top end noise". Sloppy mechanics for sure, but I won't be the first, nor the last. You can see here the difference between the top chamber, and the un-sanded chamber below.

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Lastly... If you don't have TRUE LSA heads, you need to grind down the locator dowel on the bottom of the supercharger. It is important to note the gasket is riveted to the supercharger, so I elected not to remove them. Just simply grind the dowel down.

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75932
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Now for a quick mock up to check hood clearance!!!

My plan is to paint the supercharger black by the way...

Funny - two extra cylinders, 2.2 extra liters, waayyy smaller footprint!

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CTSV lid. Shorter up front, so I had high hopes for it fitting under the hood!

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BK2 conversion parts...

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IT FITS UNDER THE STRUT TOWER BRACE!!!! LETS SEE IF THE HOOD CLOSES!

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YES... YES IT DOES FIT UNDER THE HOOD!!!!

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Discussion Starter #27
I apologize for being all over the place! BUT:

Pinning the crank for use with an ATI harmonic balancer. It is important to pin a crank when supercharged to prevent the balancer from spinning on the crank!

Now, this is the WRONG crank pinning kit, the proper one is ATI-918993, but I made this work. Only issue with the one I bought is the fixture is too long and won't allow the crank bolt to lock the tool in place. All I did was firmly push downwards on the tool to keep the drill bit straight. I do have my Aeronautics degree so I put some simple math work, I guess im not as retarded as I look 😅

The reason this specific kit is needed is because the ATI balancer has a keyway!!! This makes it easy to install/remove/properly locate. In comparison, a stock balancer will need the crank pin kit that drills between the crank and balancer, and install a pin in the hole (this way works but removal/reinstall can be a slight pain trying to line the holes up properly to push the pin back in.

Again, anyone using solid mounts, or a swap car, I highly recommend the ATI Harmonic Balancer because compared to stock balancers, it decreases in cabin vibrations by 75%!!! I've experienced it three or four times with each platform. Revs were also slightly faster to raise/fall.


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Instructions were simple. The pin needs to protrude .093".

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Measured the crank dowel pin

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Here I measured how far the included 11/16" drill bit sits in the crank pin fixture (it was straight when I measured off camera, don't worry).

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From there, I added the size of the dowel pin, then subtracted .093" so only that portion would protrude from the crank and rest in the keyway... keeping the balancer from spinning on the snout of the crank. I took a razor and marked/cut the tape to the proper mark.

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Drilled, pin installed, pin clears keyway! All done here. I'm behind but my plan is to pair the trans, test fit, then install balancer and accessories.

75969
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Snagged a new Mishimoto 3.8 radiator locally, and I got it mocked with the supercharger heat exchanger. I'll pull the engine and remove the OEM fuel/EVAP lines, install fuel pump, AN bulk heads for return/feed, and start the routing of the AN lines. I also will pair clutch and trans to engine to test fit hole in cabin... if all checks out, final placement of the drivetrain will happen.


I am very behind, but I still plan on firing the car up within 2-3 weeks.

75970
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Slave cylinder showed up! Needed this to pair the T56 to the engine.

Notice the OEM bleeder, and the OEM clutch line fitting (fbody t56 slave cylinder). Remove the top simply by unscrewing the fitting, and remove the bottom by simply using a punch (I used a 1/16 impact drill bit, but whatever works) to knock out the pin, pull the fitting, the install the clutch line adapter and clutch line.

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A slave cylinder from GM is around $180, buy a LuK slave cylinder for around $50. They are made in the same factory, evident by the "aP" marking. Whatever brand you use, DO NOT... I REPEAT... DO NOT use a slave cylinder without the "aP" stamp (pictured below). Dorman is one brand that comes WITHOUT the "aP" stamp, it is made in China and junk.

To make sense of everything, think LS7 lifters vs Delphi LS7 lifters - same manufacturing process in same plant, but with a different name. Zero difference in performance and looks.

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I HIGHLY suggest you follow this method - brands and length can be different, but follow this code:
-Top line is to bleed. Purchase or make a speed bleeder, this makes it super easy/cleaner to bleed the clutch! Bleeding process is simple - buddy press clutch, crack open bleeder, close bleeder, buddy let go of clutch pedal, and repeat a few times testing firmness of pedal. I kept this line short and I will zip tie it to the trans - even when it was in the cabin on various swaps, I still needed to have a buddy pump the clutch so I opted not to create clutter in the engine bay.

-Bottom line is the clutch line. I am using ISR's auto to manual conversion line, which is way too long! This will attach to the wilwood clutch master cylinder (DO NOT use the OEM clutch master cylinder!).


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Ok, so now to pull the engine back out and add the clutch. I elected NOT to use my McCleod Mag Force twin disc clutch since it was ultra lightweight and holds 900ft/lbs of torque! It would be a little too much for my reserved build aka probably has horrible manners on the street. I snagged a used LS2 flywheel and bought an LS7 clutch from GM (military discount). LS7 clutches are known to hold upwards of 550-600whp / 500ish wtq, but, in my GTO it lasted about two drives and left me stranded at a car meet. The genesis will be about 3200lbs vs my GTO being 3800ish, so I think the LS7 will hold.

For a majority of the builds, the LS7 clutch will be more than enough, and is very cheap.

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ARP bolts offer a peace of mind for higher HP builds. Flywheel and pressure plate bolts! The larger bolt is for the crank pulley, that'll be installed later.

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Flywheel bolts call for loctite on the threads and ARP moly lube under the head of the bolt. I only use blue (heat and vibration resistance) loctite, personally... I don't believe in using red on things that have to come off. Blue is enough.

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I used the alignment tool to align the disc, and then attach the pressure plate. Theaded in a few bolts to hold the pressure plate while I made sure everything was aligned before I installed the ARP bolts and cinched them down. Be careful not to slide the clutch on the ground like I did by it slipping out of my hands, the clutch forks hopefully are not bent smh.

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With the clutch installed, I installed the T56 bellhousing. I find it easier to "hulk" the trans into place, whether under the car, or with engine/trans out of the car.

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Best way is to stand over the T56, both hands on the front sides, lift and turn the trans clockwise and counterclockwise wiggling motion and it'll slide right in! Alight the dowel pins on the side, take a T56 to bell housing bolt, and get it started to pull the trans all the way in.

The T56 slave cylinder/TOB will naturally push against the clutch fork, not allowing you to fully seat it without bolts.

Make sure you add a bit of grease to the input shaft, pilot bearing (they come pre-greased), and top of TOB (throw out bearing)


75992
 

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Discussion Starter #30
So... following my last post, everything is paired and ready to drop into the Genesis for final placement!


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One chain, two bolts!

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Close, but still need a hair trimmed off where the linkage is contacting the tunnel. I'll work on the Venturi / fuel basket mod later, as well as the cutting, final placement of the trans, driveshaft, and shifter.

75997
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I did a bit of cutting and bent the metal layer back to finally clear the shifter. Gauge this picture for where I went wrong with cutting a learn from it. The less you cut needlessly, the less you need to clean up. Now I have to find a way to "heat proof" the cabin in this area.



75998
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Rigging up the fuel assembly. Used a DW300, a 6AN bulkhead for return, OE passenger side siphon, OE feed, and a Radium Venturi Jet Pump. Pics have the details in them so I'll post with very little details in between. Pretty straightforward. Simple, yet effective way to modify the basket. Keep in mind I'll be around 550whp, so I don't have the largest fuel needs so this will suffice for you NA or mildly boosted guys. This will be boost referenced using a fuel pressure regulator at the fuel rail (I deleted the in tank fuel pressure regulator).

I decided not to use a separate feed with 6AN hose after seeing the similar I.D. of the OE vs 6AN... I know this will work because my first supercharged genesis had a lower pulley and fuel WAS NOT an issue.


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DW300 compared to OEM fuel pump. I will ALWAYS use DW because they have three year warranties and stand behind their products.

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I used a combat knife to cut away at the orange hose (couldn't find my razor).

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Only edit from the photo below is I ended up not using the "return", but I left it open. I drilled a hole and routed hose, but that will make more sense later in the post so hold that thought.

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76008
 

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Discussion Starter #33
This type of clamp does not clamp evenly so I doubled up on it. I was running low on the proper fuel clamps so I saved those for the important hoses. I know this will hold fine, fluid follows path of least resistance and that is the fuel feed, not the plug.


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I am hooking the passenger siphon to a Venturi pump. This way, the fuel returning from the rail will pull fuel from the passenger side as it returns to the tank. The OEM Venturi was removed when I deleted the OEM fuel pressure regulator that is in tank.

IF YOU DO NOT HOOK UP A VENTURI TO THE PASSENGER SIDE TANK, YOU WILL "RUN OUT" OF GAS AT HALF A TANK APPROXIMATELY

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I drilled a hole here to install the bulkhead 6AN fitting. It sealed well, rubbing alcohol would not seep through!

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Radium Venturi jet pump kit...

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I ended up using a hose off of the Venturi into the basket where the fuel pump draws fuel (filter side).

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76018
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Now that everything has been test fitted, cut corrections etc., I can bolt everything down for the final time!

Note the bottom of the ISR shifter has the machined portion. DO NOT use the shifter if you don't have this machined portion. Myself and others (back in 2016 with my first genesis) had shifting issues - one person even rebuilt his trans multiple times - only for the issue to be the shifter cup contacting the bottom of the shifter!!!!

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Thin layer of RED RTV on the T56, and I also put a thin layer on the bottom of the shifter itself. It was tricky because the cut metal is sharp lmao

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T56 mounted. Shifter mounted.

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For the trans mount, use the forward-most two trans mount bolt holes (the first one will have a metal sticker on it IF YOU HAD AN AUTO BK1, just feel it off - if you don't pay attention you'll think the kit doesn't fit properly as it won't reach the T56)

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Driveshaft adapter and driveshaft installed. I only use blue loctite, it is plenty. Some use red loctite, but I don't use red on anything I plan on taking off eventually.

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Another angle of driveshaft installed. The heat shield (sits between driveshaft and exhaust) can not be used as is, you can probably bend and message it to work, but I elected not to use it.

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76048
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Not swap related.. well, maybe since the genesis came with base brakes (going fast means you need to slow down, too!), but I decided to paint them! I decided on SILVER......... BUT.....



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THE DAMN THINGS TURNED GOLD-ISH WHEN I APPLIED THE CLEAR COAT 😡🤬

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S/O to Bobby for painting the front bumper! Now I can work on heat exchanger and oil cooler placement!

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Side note.. I have gone through several tail lights and settled for the Spec D - only because they are sequential. They look much better in person. Otherwise, I am a BK2 Audi Mod kind of guy.

76052
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Now that the trans and driveshaft is installed, I can install the accessories (can't torque the harmonic balancer to spec of 230ft/lbs without trans being in 4th gear).

58X reluctor, so timing cover with cam sensor is needed. Replaced the old crank seal with a new one, but keep note that the NEW one seems smaller I.D. than the OLD one... it'll come up later.

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I reused the old timing cover gasket, which is fine, but I added RED RTV to the torn portion of the gasket, and in the corners of the pan. Note the valley cover - it was replaced with an LS3 valley cover (not pictured) that has a PCV nipple.

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I got the ATI balancer hub started on the crank via rubber mallet, then got then used the old OEM crank bolt to fully seat it. I was careful to make sure more than enough threads of the bolt were in the crank to avoid stripping the front crank threads.

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I removed the OEM crank bolt, lubed up the ARP crank bolt (ARP moly under head of bolt, and on threads), and torqued it down. I don't have a torque wrench, but I'm a strong dude and I've never had an issue tugging on the breaker bar full force, for sure hitting 200+ ft/lbs... but use a torque wrench if you have one that goes that high. I do have one with max of 150ft/lbs, but doesn't help here.

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Remember I said keep note of the crank seal... Well the crank spins freely, it seems its just touching the thin "dust cover/lip" of the crank seal and I'm just going to run it. I don't think it will be an issue, but it was odd to see.

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Time to screw in the ATI "face'..? My terminology is probably off but you get then point.

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It is really dummy-proof. Instructions on torque specs, and loctite, are on the sticker. Easy. Line up the offset hole, install countersunk T40 bolts w/blue loctite, and torque to specs.

Again... ATI BALANCER IS WORTH THE MONEY, FROM DECREASE IN VIBRATIONS, TO CRISPER REVS.

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ARP head bolts installed!

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76061
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Accessories install continues...

F-Body water pump would't sit flush because it was contacting the supercharger. So I did a bit of grinding.

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Clearance!

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Before I bolt the water pump down, I got the supercharger base bolted down so I can remove the OEM pulley. I have not received it yet, but I bought an Olsen Kustom Works 2.45 fbody/GTO offset upper pulley. This will allow me to run ONE belt for accessories and supercharger in fbody spacing. I will have more space for fans this way, although with OEM accessories and two belts, the supercharger did have room for SPAL high performance fans via my first supercharged genesis.

Pictured below, I used a 5-ton 3-jaw puller. I wrapped it with an old android charger to keep the teeth from popping off, but I think it wasn't necessary.

Only downside is I will have more boost than I want.. it will be about 10lbs of boost instead of the usual 7lbs I am accustomed to for lower power, lower heat buildup.

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Pulley removed!

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Don't use the 3-jaw puller if you plan on keeping, or selling the OEM pulley. Which is just a frisbee anyway.

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Waiting on the upper pulley, but hopefully that should be wrapped up by end of week. Waterpump on, alternator on, now I just need to figure out belt routing for blower and NON-power steering.

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Discussion Starter #38
Exhaust options!

Here is an old post from my instagram from 2016!!! The ISR longtubes I used had the BEST sound of any LS powered car I've ever had... BUT, the tradeoff is you will scrape, ding, bang, and eventually damage your longtubes. I don't even slam my cars, I lower them mildly. I specifically made it a point to avoid apartment complexes because I once got stuck on a speedbump LOL

But anyway... Here is what I decided to use instead of longtubes, and their pros and cons!



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LS3 Camaro stock exhaust manifolds (5th gen, 2010-2015). I know some truck exhaust manifolds will work, but I am uncertain which ones.

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More space than the OEM 3.8 and exhaust! WAYYY more room than the ISR longtubes. You don't have to worry about melting wires along the frame, and underhood temps will be lower.

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Same thing on the driver side...

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Driveside does contact the steering linkage slightly, but grinding of the manifold around that area will be simple. I'll post pictures of it later when I get around to grinding.

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So. LS3 manifolds fit. And fit well!
Pros (vs longtubes):
-Quieter valvetrain
-Lower engine bay temps
-Better clearance to frame
-Better ground clearance
-Cost (mine were $80 locally)
Cons (vs Longtubes):
-Power loss
-Slight increase in boost
-Slightly higher supercharger temps
-Looks
-Sound difference

What is it worth to you?

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76076
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Quick test fit of the heat exchanger. And now that I have a better idea of how the bumper sits, I can get the oil cooler situated!

Special thanks to Bobby, always coming through with paint/body work!

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76080
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Oil cooling

If you live in a hot climate, or are boosted (supercharger, pro charger, turbo), I HIGHLY recommend running an oil cooler. After a spirited run WITHOUT an oil cooler, you'll see oil pressure decrease as temps rise. Those who, for whatever silly reason, continue running 5w30, that crap will turn into water! This is pronounced when you are only running a 6.5 quart pan - add an oil cooler and run 0w40, or any oil with higher HT/HS ratings. I'll have boost and live in PHX so I'll be using 0w40 M1 European formula for everyday driving, like meets, cruises, occasional street pull/race. On days when I know I'll be heavily abusing the engine, I'll be using Schaeffers 9000 5w50.

It is very simple to add an oil cooler to your setup, since the pan will already have provisions for oil filter relocation. Engine to filter, filter to oil cooler, oil cooler to return side of engine. Simple.

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I'll be mounting my oil cooler in this area!

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