Hyundai Genesis Forum banner

41 - 49 of 49 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #41
Supercharger UPPER PULLEY swap - Fbody/GTO offset 2.45"

I had to disassemble the supercharger to install the pulley. It is recommended to use a press, but, what I did was remove the snout, put a socket behind and on top, and hammer the pulley hub on. Sounds rough and dramatic, but this way the bearings don't move, nothing was damaged, and it is the same difference (a stretch) as a press with slight taps. NOTE - the hub is USED, I got it on eBay for $120 off of the price of a new kit, so the hub has old loctite on it, not damage!

I wish I took before pics, but I had to cut off a tab, and grind down the area you see because it was slightly contacting the pulley when installed. No point in a machine shop. Remove some material, smooth it over, install - you can't see it anyway.



76087


76088


The 2.45" pulley is installed and went on without issue. I used blue loctite, and just hand tightened the six bolts. Spins freely!

76089


76090


So, supercharger pulley offset! Here is just an example, I'll need to add an idler and P/S pump to get the best belt wrap possible. I am estimating I'll have about 10lbs of boost with a 2.45" upper and 7.5" lower. I usually have 7lbs of boost with a 3" stock upper, and 7.8" stock lower.

I did not want that much boost, but it is only 3 extra pounds. My reasoning is to keep heat down, and power down for the time being.

76091


76092
 
  • Like
Reactions: lvdukerider

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #42
Alright, so time to mount the heat exchanger and oil cooler. After some test fitting previously, I saw it all fit well, so I just had to flip the HX (HEAT EXCHANGER), add holes for the AN fittings, and mount the oil cooler and assemble to upper grill of the bumper just to be sure everything fit.


To make sure it wasn't off-center, I lined the HX up and it happen to fit perfectly between the "circular mounts" on the bottom/front of the core support. I then marked it with some paint pen. This is how it will sit.

76103


I couldn't find any L-brackets, so I just grabbed some door hinges LOL drilled them where needed, and bolted them to the provisions on the HX, and to the core support. Hey, those hinges hold doors much heavier, so no potential issues can possibly arise.

Two bolts on HX side, two on the core support side - the top spot would interfere with mounting the core support itself to the car, so I only used the middle and bottom on the core support side of the hinge. If that makes sense.
76104


Now, with the HX mounted, I used a hole saw to make way for when I install the 45* 10AN fittings for the supercharger lid and pump. Because the HX has a radiator cap, I may elect not to use a reservoir. I'll cross that bridge sometime this week when I set up the lines.

76105


Everything mounted. Except for the oil cooler, that is partially mounted. I need to find an L bracket, or something else in my garage, to mount the right side of the oil cooler to the center part of the core support, below the hood latch.

76106


Mounted.

76107


Damn that HX and LSA supercharger look good in there!

76108


76109
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #43
Quick cost breakdown so far:

RUNNING 2011 Genesis Coupe GT (clean title)- $3300
ISR swap kit - $1800 (I bought the pan used, but this is the current sale price WITHOUT longtubes)
LS2 - $1000
LSA supercharger/CTSV lid w/reinforced brick - $2300
Water pump/Alt/ATI balancer/upper 2.45" S/C pulley - $710
T56 - $1000
Harness, ECU, pedal - $80
Brembos - $700
DW300 - $150
Mishimoto radiator (new) - $200
Odds and ends - $1000 (BK2 conversion, paint, new seats trade+cash, AN lines/fittings etc.)

=$12,240


I've made about $2,500 from selling unused items from the Genesis, extra engines, parts etc., so all in all this is easily the cheapest swap I've done. I've grabbed a lot of good used parts, or new parts cheap from local deals. There are deals out there to be had, you just have to work to get them!

Subtract the cost of the genesis and it is about $8,940.
Subtract the cost of the supercharger and it is about $6,640
Subtract the cost of the brembos and it is about $5940

Subtract the ATI Balancer and it is about $5490
Genesis Engine/Trans you should be able to sell to recoup some money as well


Those four items above aren't NEEDED (you should already have a PAID OFF Genesis Coupe), so hopefully this gives you an idea on how cheap you can do a swap that is NOT a clapped out, low power N/A 4.8 or 5.3...

Lastly, I have done about 10 LS builds, so naturally I am good at spotting deals, rummaging through my garage for old parts, and generally clapping **** together with a $99 duralast tool kit. So give or take $1,000 or two from things I've forgot to list. Hope this helps.
 
  • Like
Reactions: lvdukerider

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,183 Posts
I love how you are documenting your build, you make this seem more cost effective than going forced induction on the stock 3.8. Two questions, how do you go about registration where a smog inspection is required ? Are there any issues obtaining insurance for street use.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
I love how you are documenting your build, you make this seem more cost effective than going forced induction on the stock 3.8. Two questions, how do you go about registration where a smog inspection is required ? Are there any issues obtaining insurance for street use.
I register my car in Florida. No emissions. No problems.

Insurance is like any other vehicle.

I get messages all the time of people regretting boosting the 3.8, wishing they swapped instead. If you can do the labor yourself, there is no reason you can't complete a good swap for 5-10k, depending on luck, locale, and power goals. More reliable, more tuning options, yada yada.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #46
I love how you are documenting your build, you make this seem more cost effective than going forced induction on the stock 3.8. Two questions, how do you go about registration where a smog inspection is required ? Are there any issues obtaining insurance for street use.
Sorry, I actually misunderstood your smog questions:

People have registered and smog'd it successfully (like California), you need the OEM manifolds (if visual) with catalytic converters, turn off one code (EVAP), and I believe the engine has to be newer than the chassis it goes in. Something to that affect. But this is all based of shoddy memory. It has been done!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
Minor stuff. After a few mods for the blower, test fits etc., the gasket came in for the brick so the supercharger is finally in place for good.



76111


To reiterate.. even on stock boost levels, the CTSV brick is known to collapse, causing cooling issues (restricted flow). You can see here the brick is reinforced. With a ZL1 lid, it is redesigned and I had no such collapse with the stock brick at 7lbs of boost in previous builds.

This build will have around 10lbs of boost, so reinforcement was needed.

76112


All installed.

76113


Here is the harness I need to make into a standalone! We'll see how it goes. I've done a harness before and it is tedious... maybe I'll cop out and buy a standalone. I'll decide soon.

76114


76115
 
41 - 49 of 49 Posts
Top