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Recently replaced my BOV hose, got my a/f, Boost gauge installed and I was running around 11.4-11.7 A/F to redline tapering from 20-16 at redline. I installed my CMD with 0 map just to test it before I get it dyno tuned, but I would still be running the same A/F and boost with it installed, so it had no effect after install. Also I was experiencing really harsh engine breaking, the engine was more audible than usual. after replacing BOV hose

Today, when checking my engine bay I discovered my BOV hose which goes to the OEM boost solenoid to my HKS was pinched by a tbolt clamp and another hose. After squeezing it through to get it out, it had some thread showing so i electric taped it and re-routed it, so its not pinched anymore.

I let the car warm up and took it for a drive, now it sounds like I dont have the harsh engine breaking anymore, when downshifting from 5th to 3rd, but...
Now when I go WOT... in 2nd gear it looked like I was hitting around 12.1 -12.2, 3rd gear was around the same, temp was around 71F. this afternoon I told my girl to watch it for me when i did a run so, 3rd gear was around 12.1, and going to around fourth gear it was hitting 11.8. temp was around 80F.

Also my boost gauge when at idle hits -11 sometimes, before it was always be just at -10 before i fixed the pinch.

Sorry for the long story but could that pinch from my BOV affected all this? because before I was always hitting around 11.4-11.5 at WOT and never lost any boost before I fixed the pinch.. Any info is appreciated.
 

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Seems strange, i'm normally -19hg at idle, as far as the AFR welcome to running
a turbo car in South Florida your AFR will go up when it's hot and down when it's
cold, i believe the old saying goes "hotter richer/colder leaner" for tuning
meaning when it's hotter you add more fuel and when it's cold you take fuel out.
 

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cause of the harsh winter temps, the vacuum numbers I get in my car are from -16 to -19 depending on engine temperature and idle rpm. After warmup it's about -19

as far as your AFRs changing, verify that you're not boosting a little higher or sooner than before. Those numbers aren't too bad anyways.
 

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I would say winter temps? I know I have seen as low at 10.5 in the summer but in the winter I ahve seen as high as 13.0 at readline WOT. The IAT sees the colder air and compensates knowing detonation probably isn't going to happen. I don't see a bov pinch doing anything with AFR. I am surpised it was able to hold teh boost if it truley was pinched.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I would say winter temps? I know I have seen as low at 10.5 in the summer but in the winter I ahve seen as high as 13.0 at readline WOT. The IAT sees the colder air and compensates knowing detonation probably isn't going to happen. I don't see a bov pinch doing anything with AFR. I am surpised it was able to hold teh boost if it truley was pinched.
yep but wasnt a big pinch but it was alittle. Would the pinch make the engine sound more audible when engine breaking? My BOV was loose in the flange, Badboybill saw that at the towers, so i changed the BOV hose and fixed the BOV in the flange so its not loose anymore, and tightened all couplers to ensure no leaks. So me and my boy suspected that I had a boost leak because of that BOV being loose in the flange, and now that we fixed all that, the engine breaking is now louder. But it seems that it was the pinch because engine breaking sounds normal now, but now have higher A/F ratios.
Should I be worried running those A/F ratios? I know some people say thats way to high..
 

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It won't show the lambda for your logs.

I can't say that is too high or low, it really is up to you as you are ultimatly responsible for your engine health. Personally, I don't like to see 12's unless I am just starting my car so I know it is cooler. As to why the change... it could be as simple as some fuel trims. If you goa round flooring it all the time, you will run richer than if you run hwy a lot and then floor it.

I hope your engine didn't break lol

What did your vacuum read when you were engine braking before and now? I can say just from a physics standpoint, the better seal you have the the more forceful it is, it will be louder. So it is possible with the loose BOV, you had a lower vacuum in the IM and make the engine brake less and a bit quiter? That is just a guess and putting together some things in theory I can't say whether any of that is pracitacbly true.

Engine noise is mostly pneumatic, very seldom do you hear any combustion, that is basically what a backfire is, you hearing the combustion.
 

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It won't show the lambda for your logs.

I can't say that is too high or low, it really is up to you as you are ultimatly responsible for your engine health. Personally, I don't like to see 12's unless I am just starting my car so I know it is cooler. As to why the change... it could be as simple as some fuel trims. If you goa round flooring it all the time, you will run richer than if you run hwy a lot and then floor it.

I hope your engine didn't break lol

What did your vacuum read when you were engine braking before and now? I can say just from a physics standpoint, the better seal you have the the more forceful it is, it will be louder. So it is possible with the loose BOV, you had a lower vacuum in the IM and make the engine brake less and a bit quiter? That is just a guess and putting together some things in theory I can't say whether any of that is pracitacbly true.

Engine noise is mostly pneumatic, very seldom do you hear any combustion, that is basically what a backfire is, you hearing the combustion.

Here's a run I just did right now. Looks like im hitting 11.5 again but now its 71 degrees temp.


This is my A/F daily driving when you see it goes to 14 A/F im engine breaking.

 

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oh wow, that is not right at all. AFR should always show 18 when engine braking (it would read higher if it could). You should definatly see 14.7 when at idle or closed loop (easy driving or anytime that boost gauge reads less than -3 basically). I bet you have TERRIBLE gas mileage?

Quit driving your car please. Did you put in new injectors and didnt' scalar it? That is rich as a mofo for closed loop, I don't know how you dont' get a CEL. Is your AFR gauge hooked up right? It has the switch on the back, where is that at? I am betting/hoping that is wrong.

Watch this.
Sorry it is hard to see sometimes it shakes.

Sotice at idle it is 14.7 -.3/+.5 Anytime I go off the gas it immediatly goes to 18 and when I get back on it goes to 14.7ish. When I got WOT it hits 11ish but once you get off throttle(even between shifts) it goes 18.
 

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MR TURBO 2 U
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i'm not going to start another war here so if you want genuine help call me 61 405 400 572 my inbox here gets to full
 

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Discussion Starter #11
oh wow, that is not right at all. AFR should always show 18 when engine braking (it would read higher if it could). You should definatly see 14.7 when at idle or closed loop (easy driving or anytime that boost gauge reads less than -3 basically). I bet you have TERRIBLE gas mileage?

Quit driving your car please. Did you put in new injectors and didnt' scalar it? That is rich as a mofo for closed loop, I don't know how you dont' get a CEL. Is your AFR gauge hooked up right? It has the switch on the back, where is that at? I am betting/hoping that is wrong.

Watch this.
YouTube - GCexhaust
Sorry it is hard to see sometimes it shakes.

Sotice at idle it is 14.7 -.3/+.5 Anytime I go off the gas it immediatly goes to 18 and when I get back on it goes to 14.7ish. When I got WOT it hits 11ish but once you get off throttle(even between shifts) it goes 18.
Bro I dont know what to tell you, I'm pretty sure its hooked up right. its the dynojet WB2 and my bro does all the work on my car, I know we had to call Bill a couple times for some questions when we were installing it, but for the most part I think it is hooked up right. Still stock injectors. All I have is the PA tune and the CMD with a 0 map. But A/F was the same even before I hooked up the CMD. Soooo. **** but my gas mileage is alright. I get around 23-24mpg. I have hit 28 sometimes on highway. please someone chime in on this, gettin me paranoid.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
i'm not going to start another war here so if you want genuine help call me 61 405 400 572 my inbox here gets to full
chill I aint dialing across the country, speak your mind man i know you got some knowledge...
 

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I don't mean hooked up wrong, but the back of the gauge has a switch on it, I think yours is switched wrong. It scared me at first, but I am sure this is the issuee now, that I know you have no tune or injectors. Because what you are seeing it not actual, I forget why there is another setting, I thin it has something to do with lamda? But I never used it, I just know it isn't a correct AFR, it can't be, you have to see 18 when engine braking and is will be closer to 14.7 when idling or you have a SERIUOS injector/ECU issue. So fix that and then get back to me, I don't want to go down the wrong road. lol sorry for scaring you, it scared me to see that AFR when closed loop/engine braking.
 

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chill I aint dialing across the country, speak your mind man i know you got some knowledge...
ok so no box the afr's are fine with the box they are not? if yes its to do with the box's design and what they have changed but don't allow access to you to do but i do believe there is enough adjustment in the box to get the mixture consistent so you would have no worries! just dyno away!

only if you get varying afr's once tuned should you worry!
 

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I don't mean hooked up wrong, but the back of the gauge has a switch on it, I think yours is switched wrong. It scared me at first, but I am sure this is the issuee now, that I know you have no tune or injectors. Because what you are seeing it not actual, I forget why there is another setting, I thin it has something to do with lamda? But I never used it, I just know it isn't a correct AFR, it can't be, you have to see 18 when engine braking and is will be closer to 14.7 when idling or you have a SERIUOS injector/ECU issue. So fix that and then get back to me, I don't want to go down the wrong road. lol sorry for scaring you, it scared me to see that AFR when closed loop/engine braking.
Do you know how the switches are supposed to be?

http://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t/55562-dynojet-wb2-gauge-switch.html#post599439
 

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wow... just made the switch and im getting the accurate readings now which are really scary.... I just did a couple WOT on 2nd and 3rd and im getting around a 13.8 A/F.. not running the car until I put in the injectors and get it tuned. Glad that I know now and sure as glad I havent popped my motor.. Thanks for your help whatnot appreciated.
 

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wow... just made the switch and im getting the accurate readings now which are really scary.... I just did a couple WOT on 2nd and 3rd and im getting around a 13.8 A/F.. not running the car until I put in the injectors and get it tuned. Glad that I know now and sure as glad I havent popped my motor.. Thanks for your help whatnot appreciated.
The things to keep in mind is that the PA tune that ships with the module is for
91octane i believe unless you got the 93octane and even then i have seen other
cars without injectors pushing high 13.8AFR as well, you really need to get the
BR custom tune or use the CMD to modify it.

You can drive the car just keep your foot out of it.
 

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wow... just made the switch and im getting the accurate readings now which are really scary.... I just did a couple WOT on 2nd and 3rd and im getting around a 13.8 A/F.. not running the car until I put in the injectors and get it tuned. Glad that I know now and sure as glad I havent popped my motor.. Thanks for your help whatnot appreciated.
np man glad you got it figured out. I was in the same boat as you, people keep saying the GC runs rich but mine sure didn't. I also had detonation a few times on my stock motor so I knew it was pretty lean.

I don't think you have enough power to pop a stock motor luckily, I think you will just get some detonation and the ECU will retard your timing.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The things to keep in mind is that the PA tune that ships with the module is for
91octane i believe unless you got the 93octane and even then i have seen other
cars without injectors pushing high 13.8AFR as well, you really need to get the
BR custom tune or use the CMD to modify it.

You can drive the car just keep your foot out of it.
Dont have the module got the PA tune when they had the dyno day down here. Got the 93 oct tune, and told arvin to give me some leeway because at the time I got the tune, I only had an intake. Told him in the next few months I will be going I/TBE/FMIC, so he said I should be fine with the tune he gave me... guess not... lol at first I was like god damn PA gave me the best canned tune ever. syke.... But I think Ima give up getting rid of my primary cat for now, so i have the money to tune it on a dyno with you. I mean later we could always use the autotune for the 02 pipe if I decide to get it after the dyno tuning session no? Shouldnt make a big difference.. but hell iI aint no mechanic/tuner...
 

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Dont have the module got the PA tune when they had the dyno day down here. Got the 93 oct tune, and told arvin to give me some leeway because at the time I got the tune, I only had an intake. Told him in the next few months I will be going I/TBE/FMIC, so he said I should be fine with the tune he gave me... guess not... lol at first I was like god damn PA gave me the best canned tune ever. syke.... But I think Ima give up getting rid of my primary cat for now, so i have the money to tune it on a dyno with you. I mean later we could always use the autotune for the 02 pipe if I decide to get it after the dyno tuning session no? Shouldnt make a big difference.. but hell iI aint no mechanic/tuner...
smoke check your afr's with cmd unplugged if they are ok its the hidden settings in the cmd and this is fine just means the cmd is designed to be fitted and tuned imediately not run on 0's till you get a tune

alt. leave it on and add fuel till its in the 12's gotta be safer than 13.8 and this you can do the cmd software is tunning for dummies its so simple my 7yo daughter was doing it lol (only on the screen) (well done dyno jet)

you will find the cmd has changed map settings to allow more tuneability this could be acheived by mapv=4 into cmd mapv=3 out of cmd and as they dont give you the choice to adjust it this is the cause i would say!

again its fine i would say it was to give you more tuning scope but as you now have both its a check your timing to be sure!

ok by lowering the map v it tells the ecu its at lower load giving you more tuning scope for higher boost the side benefit is the std ecu thinks less load =less fuel + more timing this is a good thing on the std tune as it leans out the richness and gives you more timing!

now you have a tune which already (you would imagine) would have leaned it out a bit and increased timing a bit plus the new extra that cmd gives you hence your results!

this can be varrified by using a scanner or elm cable you can note your boost on your gauge and compare with the elm then repeat it with cmd plugged in you can check timing and fuel numbers too at the same time!

so yeah put some fuel numbers in or take it out for now!
 
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