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The whistles go WOO! WOO!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey,

Figured I should post this in case anyone knows the issue from the description.

Today I floored it on the freeway and the A/C shut off (as designed), however once I let back up on the throttle it never came back. Shutting down the car and re-starting didn't help.

I can see that the clutch is not engaging, so I checked the fuses. It blew the 10 amp AC fuse under the hood. I replaced it with a spare which immediately blew again.

I'm guessing it means the solenoid on the clutch is shorted out, but curious if anyone else has an opinion. Maybe some known wiring issues?

If nobody says anything, I'll do a quick wiring check then see if I can track down a clutch on its own. Not eager to replace the whole compressor, as so far it's working well.
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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Take the relay out and ohm the wire going to the clutch. That should be a 12v feed. So it should ohm out around 2 ohms. If it shorted it will show as almost 0 ohms. See if you can turn the inner pully with the engine off.
 

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The whistles go WOO! WOO!
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834 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Take the relay out and ohm the wire going to the clutch. That should be a 12v feed. So it should ohm out around 2 ohms. If it shorted it will show as almost 0 ohms. See if you can turn the inner pully with the engine off.
Compressor turns easily by hand, and I get 0.1 ohms through the field coil. Shorted.

From the diagram it looks like I can buy the field coil (part 97641-4D100) from ebay and hopefully replace it without removing the compressor. Any clue if there's enough room to pull that off? I'm thinking maybe I can loosen the compressor and tilt it a bit to get a view of the front end and remove the clips.

I don't have the kit to extract the refrigerant, so I'm hoping I can avoid going to a shop.
 

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Compressor turns easily by hand, and I get 0.1 ohms through the field coil. Shorted.

From the diagram it looks like I can buy the field coil (part 97641-4D100) from ebay and hopefully replace it without removing the compressor. Any clue if there's enough room to pull that off? I'm thinking maybe I can loosen the compressor and tilt it a bit to get a view of the front end and remove the clips.

I don't have the kit to extract the refrigerant, so I'm hoping I can avoid going to a shop.
97641-4D100
according to hyundaioemparts.com

Could dismantle the front of the car (removing the radiator support) and swing the AC condenser out of the way, with out disconnecting the AC lines.
 

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I just replaced the clutch on my AC, the bearing was roaring and the system had just been rebuilt last year. I took the overflow bottle loose and laid it on the passenger side so I could get to the unit. Held the clutch with a oil filter wrench (band type) and was able to get the 10m loose and the rest came off fairly easy. I got a complete clutch off flea bay for 50 bucks and now it no longer whines. I am going to replace the bearing on my old one to have as a back up.
 

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The whistles go WOO! WOO!
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834 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I just replaced the clutch on my AC, the bearing was roaring and the system had just been rebuilt last year. I took the overflow bottle loose and laid it on the passenger side so I could get to the unit. Held the clutch with a oil filter wrench (band type) and was able to get the 10m loose and the rest came off fairly easy. I got a complete clutch off flea bay for 50 bucks and now it no longer whines. I am going to replace the bearing on my old one to have as a back up.
Thanks. Since I last posted my bearings went out too. It started making a hell of a racket as soon as I started the car.

I bypassed the AC with a shorter belt, and I guess I'll check ebay for a clutch.
 

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Do you by change have a pic of the shorter 85.5 belt installed? Maybe a part number of the belt you went with. I drag race and thought it might help not turning the AC pulley.

I found a complete OEM clutch & all for around 100 bucks. I bought one that looked close and everything was the exact same except the ID of the bearing so I just bought 2 more bearings, one for the new setup and a spare to put in my old clutch. the info on bearing Markings on BEARINGS from stock clutch. NSK KOREA A50 30BD5222DUM6 I bought this clutch for 50 but found I could get OEM new for 100, up to you really.
 
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When you do take it off be on the lookout for a thin washer used as a shim between the coil and the clutch.
My clutch came with 2 small washers under the bolt and with the way it sits IN the Hub I could not mic it so I just used both and it worked out. Not sure about the stock ones, I had to beat and bang to get the OEM off, it was fused on. I had a whine that was LOUD so I replaced everything with the AC clutch being last. That always happens!
 

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The whistles go WOO! WOO!
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834 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Do you by change have a pic of the shorter 85.5 belt installed? Maybe a part number of the belt you went with. I drag race and thought it might help not turning the AC pulley.

I found a complete OEM clutch & all for around 100 bucks. I bought one that looked close and everything was the exact same except the ID of the bearing so I just bought 2 more bearings, one for the new setup and a spare to put in my old clutch. the info on bearing Markings on BEARINGS from stock clutch. NSK KOREA A50 30BD5222DUM6 I bought this clutch for 50 but found I could get OEM new for 100, up to you really.
Thanks for the lead on the discount clutch. I haven't bought anything yet so more info is good :)

The belt is a Continental 4060850. I got the idea from this youtube video

Only catch is you need to remove a bolt from the water pump. Even after doing that, the belt runs realllly close to another bolt, but I haven't noticed any wear.

I checked the service manual for information on the removed bolt, and it doesn't seem too important (no torque spec, one of many bolts holding water pump), so I removed it for now.

Dude in the video said his was missing that bolt so he didn't notice. But when I compared images online, it looks like everyone else has it. Someone probably forgot to replace it when swapping his water pump. Either way, you'll see our conversation on youtube.
 

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Cool, I just like trying new stuff and had a few belts left over from my SRT6 and the Supercharged SLK. These cars are Heavy so anything I can delete , throw out I did trying to save a few pounds. Found the battery out of a Prius was 25lbs lighter, relocating the New and smaller washer bottle beside the smaller battery, stuff like that. It cant hurt NOT turning the AC pulley and the stock belt is damn near 5' long so it will not hurt to run a shorter one when weather permits. I will not pay 1500 for a CF Hood or Trunk but I will leave nothing but a single toothpick in the car if I think it will go faster!
 
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Random, Did the 85" belt have plenty of adjustment left on the tensioner or was it Maxed out? I ask because I found a 84.75 belt for 20 bucks is why I ask. Thanks again for the help. I believe I found the OEM Clutch on Amazon & Ebay but be careful and match part numbers, I will look for the link. I had the same Whine, started by rebuilding the alternator, then pullies, serviced the PS system and at last reached down and turned the AC clutch and it was ROUGH. Had been rebuilt last year but to lazy to get the clutch off and replace it. Blows Cold (42) in the heat of the day and no more WHINE!
 
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