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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
It's been a while. I've been quite busy doing a lot of stuff to the car and haven't really felt like writing guides :), but I just finished the entire process of getting the M&S Hyper G front bumper and as always, I learned a whole lot along the way. I couldn't really find many of the details I wanted to know before hand as well. And thus, here it is.

M&S Hyper G

I actually purchased the entire body kit. I don't really like the rear bumper so much, but I got a good price on the whole kit, so I'm gonna sell the rear bumper and installed the front bumper and the side skirts. Which leads me to lesson number uno:

Inspect your body kit / pieces WHILE THE SHIPPING COMPANY IS THERE WITH YOU

As you can guess below, my kit was trashed when I got it. I had chips missing out of pieces of the body kit. If there is an excessive damage, reject shipping and make the seller send you a non-broken kit and package the kit better. I had to have a discussion with my seller where I told them it's a little unreasonable to think that a body kit in a box with no packing material, is gonna be delivered from Korea with no damage... They made it right in the end though.




That said, certain damage / imperfections are pretty much expected with fiber glass body kits. So something like this below, while annoying, is really not that big of a deal:



When working with fiberglass body kits, you need to expect to do one of two things:

1) Get ready to do a bunch of grunt work to make your bumper look perfect

or

2) Pay a bunch of money for someone else to make your bumper look pretty.

I opted for option 1 and here's why:

• It's a learning experience. I mean, how hard could it be? And then I get to make these idiot guides and feel good about myself...
• Nobody else is going to be as pedantic as I am in order to make the bumper look PERFECT....
• ... Unless I spend a crap ton of money on someone who happens to be as heavily attentative to detail as I am and is willing to do the work.
• Pride. I get to say that I did the work when people are asking me about my car.

Now painting is something I have no experience with. So I had to hire a body shop to do the painting, as I would expect 99 % of anyone reading a DIY guide that contains the word "idiot" in the title.


Let the fun begin! Let's do this!

Options

The Hyper G comes in 2 flavors, Type A and Type B. The differences are:

• Type A comes with a horizontal bar across the main opening. This bar is literally just tied in place. So if you're like me and you want the wide open "hole for days" look of Type B, You can buy the Type A and just removed the bar. Takes a literal 20s.
• Type A comes with a much larger hexagon mesh, whereas the Type be is a much smaller mesh pattern.

Type A with the horizontal bar removed:


I actually opted to throw away the mesh altogether and get a 3rd party mesh. And the reasons were:

• I wanted the Type B smaller mesh, but bought the Type A bumper because I found it cheaper.
• The mesh that comes with the Type A doesn't actually cover the ENTIRE bumper. Yes, you heard me right. The mesh stops just a hair before the edges and it looks hokey as hell.




You'll also notice that the bumper comes with "Made in Korea stickers all over it. Those were fun to remove.

Additional options are:

• LED DRLs
• Additional fins for the side openings.

I opted for both. They are both an additional cost. If I recal correctly, the fins were $50 and the LEDs were $230. I don't remember, but I'm glad that I bought them both. The fins look drop dead sexy when it's all done and the LEDs make the bumper looks really clean and sexy and if you don't get them, the spot that they go, looks just like the LEDs, but made out of fiber glass, and again, that looks hokey. Just do yourself a favor and buy both the fins and the LEDs. Or don't. But don't blame me when your bumper doens't look as good as mine ;P.

Prepping the fiberglass for Painting

I really wanted to see how my bumper would fit. One of the biggest questions I had before buying was "How is the fitment on it?". People said "The fitment is PERFECT!!!!", but I'm very skeptical. What I can say is that for being a Korean made fiberglass after market bumper, the fitment is pretty damn exceptional. It's not perfect, but from everything I've read with EVERY aftermarket bumper for this car, these are about as good as it's gonna get.

Unfortunately, you can't do that because there are some holes that need to be drilled first, in order to be able to mount the bumper to the car. Yes, the bumper did NOT come predrilled for me.

So I started with prepping the bumper.

Drill some holes:




Luckily, it's pretty obvious where they go. If they weren't marked, this would be a nightmare. Don't forget the 4 holes on the bottom where the fender liner plastic screws go.

Cut some holes for the LEDs:

This was kind of a pain in the ass. Frankly, the LEDs don't fit that well. I basically just carved the obvious hole out of the bumper, being conservative at first, and then widened it until the LEDs fit the best they could. There was not trick. Just keep going a little wider.

• There is nothing to mount the LEDs too and they are fairly heavy. This means that I had to pay my body shop guy to do some custom fiberglass fabbing. He ended up making a little shelf and then epoxying the **** out of them. I told him that they can be permanently mounted. This cost more, because he spent more time on it. Expect to add this to the body shop bill.

Here is what it looked like:





Install the fins:

Okay, this is a joke. The fins don't even remotely fit right. I had to have my body shop guy custom fabricate the modifications to make the fins not looks stupid as hell. And he did. He did a GREAT job. But expect to pay the body shop for their time and hope you get a shop that knows what they're doing with custom fiberglass work. Because we had to wait for resin to dry, it extended the amount of time my car was in the shop. They had my car from Wednesday to Tuesday.

Rest of the Prep

This part wasn't to terribly hard, but it was time intensive. I spent several hours on it, working out all the badness. The following is merely what I used. There may be better ways to do this! I admit that I learned all this on the fly!

What you need:

• Bondo 907 glazing and spot putty
• Putty knife / scraper
• 100% Acetone
• Sandpaper (80, 150, 400, and 800 grits)
• Painters respirator (yes, you need it!)

Full disclosure: I've been told by people that a DA (dual action) sander makes this process a lot easier. I don't have one. I found it rather relaxing to crank some Judas Priest or Creedance and sand away. But maybe I'm just insane.

The bondo says it dries in 20 minutes. It's a lie. And everything I read on the interwebs said to wait several hours. I let it sit over night and it worked well.

• Before glazing, put some acetone on a rag and wipe down the bumper, cleaning it.
• Using the putty knife, fill in all the little divots and imperfections in the bumper. And there are lots of them. See below:




• It doesn't take a lot of glaze. The more you use, the more sanding you'll have to do. But use enough.
• Make sure to spread it in a way where you're not creating air bubbles. There are plenty of youtube videos on glazing technique. I watched like all of them.
• When you have finished putting glaze on, it should look something like this:



Except that this was round 1. I found so many little imperfections everywhere, that round 2 had red stuff everywhere. I didn't take a pic though.

I had some pretty significan't chunks missing out of the corners. Just pack on the glaze, so you can sand it back down when it's hard.

After sitting over night, I started the sanding process. Here is what you need to know:

• Wear the respirator. That dust is fine and will kill you.
• 80 grit is ONLY used for MAJOR shaping. I used it primarily on shaping the holes where the LEDs go and reshaping the horrible asymmetric sections of the thickness along. I took a measuring caliper and measured the distances of thickness around the various spots on the bumper, in order to insure it was symmetrical when I was done sanding.
• 150 grit tears through bondo pretty easily. I would gently use it to get the major excess of bondo off, and then move to....
• 400 grit. This is what I primarily used. I preferred to spend some extra time on this grit, as to make sure that I didn't removed too much. At some point, almost all of the glaze sands off and all your left with are nice smooth red veins within the white body.
• 800 grit is then used as a final super smooth.

Just keep workin it. Put in as much work as you feel necessary. I felt that there needed to be a LOT of extra work put in in order to make this bumper really be good enough to show off. I'm glad I put the work in. It would have cost a fortune to pay a shop to put in the hours I did to make it look perfect from every angle.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Test Fitting / Installing

WARNING!
You have to remove part of your OEM bumper in order to transplant it to the new Hyper G bumper. This means, it's kind of a pain in the ass to go back and forth. I actually did the test fitting after I prepped the bumper. I supposed it doesn't really matter what order you do it in, just know that it's a pain to go back and forth, because of what you have to do.

• First things first, you have to remove your OEM bumper. I'm not going to explain that process in detail (I know, I know, I'm being a lazy idiot), because there are PLENTY of resources online that explain how to do it. The jist is:

Remove the 4 plastic screws from the fender liners under the car
Remove the metal screw from where the bumper meets the fender in the wheel well (turn your wheels outward)
Remove all the plastic screws near the hood latch
Pull the outward from the edges without busting any clips
Pull the top plastic guard off the peg holes and pull the whole bumper out

• I got instructions after the fact and they were a HORRIBLE translation from Korean to English. So I'll summarize the important stuff.
• Cut off the middle tab on your front clips under the headlights. Yes, permanently altering your car. I used a dremel.



• Unscrew and remove these clip plates from the sides of your car.



• Remove your hood latch plastic guard thingy from your OEM bumper



This is actually pretty easy. There are several metal screws on the back side, screwing it directly into the bumper (you remove these, but you don't put them back into the Hyper G)
and then from the underside of the rubber stripping, use a screw driver to push out each of the 12 or so round plastic plugs that hold the soft rubber seal into the hard plastic piece. Sorry I didn't get pictures of this process.

Once you have these steps done, you can put the bumper on. Just be careful. I found that starting high and having it rotated in a little, helps clear the head lights when putting it in place. Just don't force it. It just fit in place fairly easily, without have to "snap it in place" or force it. Any time it didn't slide right in, some minor adjustments would get it in just fine. And fiberglass is actually more robust than I originally thought it would be. You still have to be careful, but I thought it's crack at the slightest flex or bump. I'm glad I was wrong. :D

Here is how the bumper looked when I put it on the first time:






I'm always brutally honest about my short comings in these guides. I hope it's charming :D. But here is where I did something dumb. For the entire time I've had the car, I pull out of my driveway straight. I'm lowered on BC coilovers and I've never scraped getting out of my driveway. Well, evidently the Hyper G bumper hangs just a hair lower than the OEM.




Well, pride in the toilet, I broked my LH side clip on the bumper. In the end, not a big deal. The body shop justs fiber glassed me a new clip, which is actually thicker and more sturdy than the other side.... hrm, winning?

So yeah, I learned the importance of entering and exiting at a 45 degree angle. After doing that, I never scrape. Hey, I can't be the *only* one that doesn't know this stuff!

Paint

I can't paint. Neither can you. So let the body shop do what they do.

When I got my bumper back, it looks like this:




Holy wow!!!!

Painting the innards

My body shop didn't really paint the insides of the bumper. Which is 95% okay, but since the fiberglass is lighter, if you were standing closely in front of the car, you can see the inside of the bumper. Which just looks weird. I know it would be less noticeable when the mesh is installed, but I wanted to make it perfect. So I sprayed black dip (yeah, I like plastidip. It's easy and if you mess up, you can just peel it). So I spray some of the insides black:

Before

After


Wiring up the LEDs

Very simple. The only thing that I was a stickler about, is that since this is outside wiring, I used water proof connectors. These connectors seal perfectly and have heat shrink tubing on the ends. Don't mess around with electrical problems...

• Strip the appropriate wires, crimp em down, and then heat gun the shrinky tube part until they look like this:




I used a multi-meter to determine the correct wiring, but on the 2015 Ultimate, Red = LEDs, Orange = Fogs.

• I left about an inch of wiring on the harness, in case I ever want to put the OEM bumper back on, there is plenty of room to bridge the original wires back together.

• NOTE: LED lights are polarity specific, which means they won't work if you wire them backwards. I got lucky on the first try, but if you mess it up, just swap em and then mark the positive wires. I used green tape on mine (not in the pic).
• If for some reason our LEDs don't work, try wiring them directly to a 12v battery and seeing if they work then. If

Mesh

As I already stated, I thought the OEM M&S mesh looked stupid. So I went and bought some mesh from Customcargrills.com. They were super cool. The first one they shipped was actually bent by the shipping company (seeing a pattern in my luck here?). I emailed customcargrills and sent them some pics of the unopened box sitting at my door with a horrible bend in it and they sent out another one immediately. They also didn't want me to return the bend one, which ended up working out for me, because I needed the extra material to make the mesh on the sides, behind the fins. Score.

The mesh is one big strip:



I used an orange paint pen to make an outline from the original grill. I of course padded the sides a little, considering the original didn't go to the edges of the hole in in the bumper. I think I gave an extra 1/2" all around, just to be sure.

I then just used a dremel EZ metal cutting wheel to cut it out. Dead Simple. Wear Eye protection and put glasses up close to your face. The little fragments love to find ways into your eyeball.

The mesh fits right onto these bendable metal prongs that are built right into the bumper. So just take your time and work it on until you have each of the prongs in the most perfect hole for the position of the bumper. You can see in this pic below, that I actually marked the best holes for the prongs, that way it's easy to take the mesh on and off and have perfect fitment still. This was important, because I wanted to change the color of the mesh....



Example of what the prongs look like (from the rear bumper):


Dip the Mesh

I like to be a little different. So I wanted white and blue on the car. So I dipped the mesh white. I'm not gonna go into how I did that, since I already wrote an entire guide on how to dip your Gen Coupe.

FIN!







And a bonus picture because a friend of mine did this and it made me laugh:



Next up, Hyper G side skirts. But I doubt I'll be making a guide, because it really should just be more of the same. I'll post pics below when it's done.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I forgot to say that the plastic screw clips will not fit in the main holes any more. They aren't long enough. So instead, I just plug the holes with some bolts that fall in place. It's not like they'll rattle out. I think this is where the Korean instructions say to literally screw the plastic into the frame, but how about not.


 

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Discussion Starter #4
** Reserved for future updates **
 

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Discussion Starter #5
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Very nice, the lines fit better to the hood and fenders than my factory bumper!
 

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I was looking for something along those lines for connectors for another project.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Nice write up, how long did it take from prep to install?
I'm gonna say that I spent probably 5-6 hours sanding and reshaping it. And then another 1-2 getting the car and original bumper parts moved around.

Not including the time I had to wait for the glaze to dry over night.

I really wanted to make the edges nice on it. So I spent some good time on the sanding.

My ONLY suggestion, is to ditch those wire connectors, and use something like this:
Thanks for the suggestions! I'd not seen those before and that's definitely a much better connector for this application. If I ever have problems with the ones I have, I'll switch em over.
 

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Great work and looks AMAZING. Props on the DIY

I want the kit but it is very pricey everywhere I look. Do you mind me asking where you got a deal at?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
PM'd
 

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I hate to tell you this man, but you bought a replica kit. That's NOT an M&S product, so whoever sold it to you definitely ripped you off if they said it was. You did some great work though. Don't let anyone bust your balls about the mesh either ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I hate to tell you this man, but you bought a replica kit. That's NOT an M&S product, so whoever sold it to you definitely ripped you off if they said it was. You did some great work though. Don't let anyone bust your balls about the mesh either ;)
Wait.... What? I'll PM you dude.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Whatever happened with this? was it fake?

Yea. It definitely is a rep. The M&S appears to be much higher quality. Sucks, but I already did the work and it's fine. But other people shouldn't have to go through all this headache.

Meh.
 
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