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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

Wanna start off by saying I've already done the recall and have searched. I may have missed something in the 100's of unresolved threads but if anybody has some current information that would be helpful.

This is the 3rd time my push button has failed me. It never has failed to start the vehicle, my issue is it's failing to turn the vehicle off. The first time it happened I did my research and found the recall. The second time it happened was the same day the recall was done, and I drove straight to the dealer to have them resolve it while it was not working. They determined they installed the wrong part, and you can see two different switch part numbers on my invoices. It worked fine afterwards, until today (roughly 1 month). I got to work, hit the push button and it wouldn't shut the car off. Tried to manually override the switch by holding the clutch, brake and button for 5, 10 and 15 seconds all in separate attempts. Nothing happened, although I believe this is only for start up override. So I manually stalled the engine and pulled the negative terminal on the battery, reinstalled the negative terminal and all has been well for now today.

Does anybody have any insight to this? When I was at the dealer they said their computer showed no signal to the transmission control module, although I didn't have much faith in anything they were doing for installing the incorrect part on a recall. So this may be cannon-fodder.

2010 Track, 6 speed 2.0t. Running on Haltech.

Thanks in advance!

- Brandon
 

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Korean Asswhoopin
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Well all I can tell you is i'm on a haltech with a push button start. I've had issues long before any of the modding with loose connections all over my car, mainly in the main engine bay fuse box. My issue was the opposite though the car would electrically die all the time. The brake switch shouldn't be a part of the scenario here since it doesn't need that signal to shut the car down. This is only important on an automatic car when starting. I can't understand why the dealer is looking for signal to a TCM when it doesn't have one.. I would replace your push button, to me the it's the most obvious part and it should be subject to wear. It can't be making a proper
contact, which is what happened to the brake switches. Although unrelated I did have my clutch safety switch go bad as well, I was able to start the car without the clutch depressed. Check the adjustment of those switch, it should be almost fully depressed with clutch released. Goodluck

Props to another BR loyalist
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sorry for the late reply guys, it's been a hell of a busy week for me.

Red, I did indeed confirm its receiving single from the key fob. I took the key with me and shut the door. Chimed inside and out of the vehicle. Went back into the vehicle with the key and shut the door, KEY OUT disappeared.

So I would presume the SKCM was functioning properly, or at the least, receiving signal properly.
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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The push button switch has two outputs. One goes to a Power Distribution Module, the other goes to the BCM and SK module.

I assume the light on the PB does not change when trying to stop the engine? You could try tracing that down as there are three light color inputs to the PDM that would then internally cut the signal for the Ignition Relay 2. This I believe is how the engine is stopped.

If the PB light doesn't change color then it would possibly be the switch again or the PDM is not processing the signal to kill the Ignition 2 relay. Maybe a sticking relay? Easy enough to swap it with another.



 

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Korean Asswhoopin
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Also make sure in your haltech that vehicle is setup for push button start rather than key start
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Checking in again. I hoped it was a fluke but it came back this morning. Same exact scenario. I did not check the button to see if the color was changing. Red, is that was you're saying? The backlight changes color? I would love to test the relay theory, but if I pull the relay with the vehicle, it will kill the engine from what I'm seeing, correct?

I can go buy a brand new relay and swap it and see if it happens ever again. It's almost like clockwork around 1 month each time.

I bought the vehicle with the Haltech already installed. Since this isn't a hard malfunction, I think it's safe to assume the Haltech is set up properly.

- Brandon
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Also, I'm not sure if it matters being as this is an intermittent fault, but the Fob Holder was deleted long before I owned it when the tablet was installed and the blue screen was relocated. But I do see it within the diagram so I wanted to bring that up.

- Brandon
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Red,

That's the cheapest start for an intermittent problem so I will give it a shot! I'll just order a new one from Hyundai.

I will report back if it ever (hopefully not) happens again.

Thanks!

- Brandon
 

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Korean Asswhoopin
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If you have a laptop it's easy to check your haltech setup and see if it's set up for push button. The car will start either way whether the box is checked key or PB
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Hello again...

It happened yet again. This time it happened on lunch so I had the resources to play for a bit and see what I could find! Unfortunately, I didn't discover the BCM, PIC and other options until AFTER resetting the battery. I'll try to be precise and coherent on my post, and if you have any questions please feel free to ask.

It stalled in the drive thru and wouldn't allow me to reset the ignition, so I asked for help to push it, and it DID pop start.

I made it back to my shop, manually stalled it and popped the hood. I swapped IGN1 relay for ACC relay and it wouldn't power down. I then swapped IGN2 for IGN1 and it still wouldn't power down the vehicle. So, I believe stuck relays are out of the question as when I disconnected the negative cable and hooked it back up, it started per normal. It's safe to assume that unplugging the relays would act in the same manner as de-energizing the vehicle.

I did test later in the day if the key being out of range would not allow vehicle to shut off (it was a theory about vehicle lock out/anti-shut off if keys are misplaced), it still shut off, and did trigger KEY OUT to illuminate.

I took a ton of pictures of what I was viewing whitin my Snap-On Solus, but as I said, I didn't discover the extra functions until after I had reset the battery.

I will state that I DMM'd the Fob battery and it was at 2.90 volts, and I replaced it with a new battery that was 3.29 volts (just as a precaution).

These are the codes, and I'm not sure how long some of them were there, or if I triggered them by pulling the relays:

P0562 - (Engine) System Low Voltage - History Code
B1102 - (Airbag) Battery Low Voltage
B2502 - (Airbag) Passenger A/B Telltale Lamp Failure
B1604 - (Smart Key Unit) CAN Timeout BCM (Active/History)

These are due to not having TPMS sensors in the wheels from when I purchased the car:
C1662
C1312
C1313
C1314
C1315
C1126

I searched Alldata and it does not list B1604, a google search provided info from AutoHex stating if "communication error between BCM and Key ECU for more than 10s" then it sets the DTC - AutoHex Online Help: Hyundai VERACRUZ/ix55(EN) 2012 Fault Code: b1604

I will attach reference images that I don't really think will provide much info (both while stuck key on and then after battery reset engine running), and then base info from PIC and BCM functions after clearing codes with key on/engine off and key on/engine running. I think at this point it will mainly be a reference for whenever this unfortunately happens again...Let's begin.

Engine stalled, key on:

https://imgur.com/PWZ6r1
https://imgur.com/uyxxUWf

Key On/Engine Running (After Reset)
https://imgur.com/lQUYD3L
https://imgur.com/3Z9tPJ0

I will be back to post more images withing the hour or so. of the BCM/PIC stuff and edit this post.
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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That would make sense a communication error. It's unplug the connectors and plug them back in again between the SKM and BCM

B1604 CAN Timeout between SMK and (IPM or BCM)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Red, I assumed this was likely the case but next time it happens, I will attempt to pull codes and see if it sets the DTC again.

Here is a public folder of the stills I took of the data, if anybody would like to review them. I put comments on the images but not sure if they are public viewable. I'm merely keeping these as a reference for when it happens again to watch for STG and relay activity.

Imgur Gallery
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I've been reading through the service manual graciously provided by Snoopy and have made my way into the SSB section. This is an image from the section. Does it appear that there is any communication between PDM,BCM,PIC,SKU etc from ENGINE RUN to OFF? It also appears that there is an EMERGENCY OFF protocol which will shut the motor off IF: pressed 3 times within 3 seconds or long pressed for 2 seconds. I can confirm that neither of these have worked in past attempts. Will continue reading.

 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
As long as the manual override for brake switch issues. I think I did at 15 seconds and at 30 seconds different times. i've literally mashed the button as fast as I could thinking it could be a contact issue.
 
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