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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just curious. Been searching for the last hour but getting random **** because of the specificity of the search. I know over in the build section, @Ryengoth had a custom one made. I don't mind losing the washer fluid bottle or making some cuts. It was hot this weekend (80-85) and I measured my intake temps at idle at 145+, cruising temp at 110+, highway speeds around 90+. Lots of heat soak! I even have the SRI wrapped in reflective thermal tape.

Anywho, if it's not worth the trouble, tell me to go away. If those temps are what you guys are seeing as well, then I guess that's the norm. If that's the norm, I may go back to the stock box...
 

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Just curious. Been searching for the last hour but getting random **** because of the specificity of the search. I know over in the build section, @Ryengoth had a custom one made. I don't mind losing the washer fluid bottle or making some cuts. It was hot this weekend (80-85) and I measured my intake temps at idle at 145+, cruising temp at 110+, highway speeds around 90+. Lots of heat soak! I even have the SRI wrapped in reflective thermal tape.

Anywho, if it's not worth the trouble, tell me to go away. If those temps are what you guys are seeing as well, then I guess that's the norm. If that's the norm, I may go back to the stock box...
What I made was a hood scoop vent CAD model. At speeds over 50mph it creates an eddy in the front corners of the car causing intake air temps to rise. It also forces air down and across the engine so it's a win/lose. I'm testing a water mister setup for my FMIC as soon as I get the cruise to actually hold speed on the MoTeC.
 

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Don't think anyone done it, but few have done home made CAI. 12 and under have MAF sensor, so pipe might be too short and then you will have to get pipe with MAP sensor adapter.
Since you already have HAI (hot air tinake) all you need, is to get extension pipe with a 45 is deg corner or a cupler that has a corner to connect strait pipe going down.

You would have to take out windshield washer reservar to have CAI.


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I bought dodge Ram CAI of ebay- as it was right diameter 3.5" and had multiple bands in it, and velocity stack. Cut it up to sizes I needed, used bends/corners I needed, got a universal MAP sensor adapter. Also upgraded to better clams and couplers, as well as good filter - Blox air filter to fit over 6" velocity stack.

Final cost forme $110

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Cool, good info. Did you make any modifications down near the filter?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Oh my bad Ryengoth , it was tuff buffalo that has the custom welded one.
 

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Cool, good info. Did you make any modifications down near the filter?
Did not do any modifications, but my large filter hardly fits in that space.

Filter is 7" diameter and 8" tall

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shorttrack
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Oh my bad Ryengoth , it was tuff buffalo that has the custom welded one.
Tuff buffalo made a CAI for his stock 3.8 intake manifold and lengthened it for his sedan Plastic style manifold .It is similar to TITAN's CAI at 3-1/2 inch inside diameter .I did a CAI with a 4 inch diameter that goes to a 4 inch to 6 inch intake bell(velocity stack) with very large tapered K&N filter that resides behind the fog lamp assy . I made a inner fender to CAI pipe bracket to keep the pipe from moving(4 inch pipe leaves no room for movement). I carefully cut the fog light fake plastic mesh screen out and installed a true screen for cooler intake during runs at speed .All parts can be purchased from Spectre performance .You will need two 45 degree elbows and rubber coupling hose,clamps , 24 inch long 3-1/2 aluminum pipe (you will be cutting to proper length) and the filter.Do not connect the driver side valve cover hose to the CAI ,instead install hose to a small breather filter to the driver side valve cover .You are making a CAI ,no need to vent any engine heat to the CAI .
 

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shorttrack
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What I made was a hood scoop vent CAD model. At speeds over 50mph it creates an eddy in the front corners of the car causing intake air temps to rise. It also forces air down and across the engine so it's a win/lose. I'm testing a water mister setup for my FMIC as soon as I get the cruise to actually hold speed on the MoTeC.
I have 2 tanks for my AEM W/M ,one 1 gallon tank for 50/50 water/meth mix for nitrous runs and a 3 gallon tank for distilled water for running plain NA(on motor) around Texas in the hot @ss heat of summer.In the ''Nitrouse on a GDI 3.8'' page 16 -post 306 you can see my system along with the tank selection switch .
 

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It's important to add that I do have fog lights. If you have no foglights, then you will have planty of room. Otherwise, 8 ish wide and 10" tall area is all you have to fit filter.

If you have Tuscani Custom or MS grill, like I do, then you will have wider grill opening then stock ( on the bottom ), alowing air to get to the filter.
Gen has vertical luvers / dividers behind a grill on each side of radiator to chanel air into radiator, aftermarket grill has opening last those dividers, raming air into fender wells.

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shorttrack
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It's important to add that I do have fog lights. If you have no foglights, then you will have planty of room. Otherwise, 8 ish wide and 10" tall area is all you have to fit filter.

If you have Tuscani Custom or MS grill, like I do, then you will have wider grill opening then stock ( on the bottom ), alowing air to get to the filter.
Gen has vertical luvers / dividers behind a grill on each side of radiator to chanel air into radiator, aftermarket grill has opening last those dividers, raming air into fender wells.

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I have a OEM front fascia and fog lights . I installed my large K&N filter inline with the opening that I cut beneath the fog light ,in the direct air flow .The screen I installed keeps road debris from impacting the filter.My filters Dim's are height 7.50 ,flange 6.00,bottom O.D. of 9.00 and top o.d of 6.625 .it is a K&N universal p/n RU-5177HBK. The tightest clearance in mounting the filter is about 1/8 inch from my fog light .
 

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From temperature measurements I did on my 2010 in the passenger side fender well area there is no advantage to opening up the fog light area to let in cooler air as there was no difference between the temp there and the ambient temp. I did put a baffle between the radiator and the opening to the engine compartment. But it will allow direct water contact in the rain with the filter.

 

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shorttrack
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On my 2014 3.8 r-spec Data logging showed a lower temp than without the fog light opening when driving.I don't drive my gen in the rain ,it is not my DD.If I happen to get caught in the rain I would disconnect the tube to the Throttle body until I got home . My set up, upper and lower manifold porting and CAI pipe size,larger filter,inlet velocity stack,bored throttle body helps in the total result .
 

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I have 2 tanks for my AEM W/M ,one 1 gallon tank for 50/50 water/meth mix for nitrous runs and a 3 gallon tank for distilled water for running plain NA(on motor) around Texas in the hot @ss heat of summer.In the ''Nitrouse on a GDI 3.8'' page 16 -post 306 you can see my system along with the tank selection switch .
i will be doing water injection just to help during the summer heat as well. i've seen 145 already and we're still 20 degrees off peak summer temps.
 

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shorttrack
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i will be doing water injection just to help during the summer heat as well. i've seen 145 already and we're still 20 degrees off peak summer temps.
It is a good mod.Snow performance has more jet sizes than AEM w/m, the AEM 250 jet I am using(the smallest AEM jet available) is turned all the way down with controller and leaves me with no further adjustment ,works well for non boosted application with distilled water.No need of wasting money on water/meth 50/50 mix if not spraying N2O or not boosting .I purchased a 3 gallon tank for the distilled water .Able to go back and forth to water /meth by way of a switch.My manifold during the summer peak temp is cold to the touch and engine temps stay down as well .
 

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shorttrack
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Removal of engine cover is a must , so is opening up the fake hood vents as well .
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I have the engine cover off, the sound deadening material on the underside of the hood removed as well. I will have functional hood vents before too long. I have a stock air box I am getting for free, and I will do the mods to that that have been documented and will take some readings with both the SRI and the modified stock airbox.
 
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