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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
We are going to try something new to try to cut down on the some of the more common question threads that get created. If you have a question, we have answers or at least we know where to find answers. My fellow moderators will be moving threads that have common theme into this thread to be answered. All senior members are invited and encouraged to help out when you see something new posted to this thread.

Rules of the thread:

NO TROLLING! This is not a conversation or a thread to a debate. Ask your question (one question per entry, please) and I or someone else will answer that question.

If your question is about modifying your car, please take the time to review this thread before asking your question: http://www.gencoupe.com/new-member-section/216521-ultimate-genesis-coupe-newbie-guide-modding-must-read.html

If you want to know what color to paint your wheels, ask your mother, father, brother, sister, friend, co-workers. If you ask it here the answer is always RED!

If you choose to answer a question on this thread (either by answering the question directly or by posting a link to a relevant thread) keep it simple!

Your questions do not have to be limited to the Genesis Coupe. You may also ask questions related to the forum itself, posting, or rules.

Did I mention NO TROLLING? Keep insults, sarcasm, and cynicism out of this thread. If you get caught, you will be warned and your post will be deleted. There will be no second warning. Keep it civil.

If you see a new thread created in another section that belongs here, report the thread so that a moderator can move it.

The same question may be asked more than once in this thread. Please don't tell the member to search. Just answer the question or leave it alone.

If your question is one that would be better in another section, we will recommend that you go ahead and start a thread to get answers from the community.

Lastly, I would ask any vendors who want to participate in this thread not to offer to sell a solution. We have a number of really great vendors who support us and I don't want a vendor war going on here.

Let's see if we can make our community a little more new member friendly.
 

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opinions on buying used ?

i went to go check this out
cnj.craigslist.org/cto/4538779798.html

really fell in love with the body and sound of the 3.8 engine. i REALLY want to upgrade to the gen coupe from my 2005 325i. but i dont have the 25k for a new one so im looking into used. i get to that guys car everything seems okay then i see its a rebuilt title !!! oh god. its been in like 2 different accidents when i checked the carfax at home.

anyway

i cant find any private owned gen coupe with low miles or someone who hasnt got a really fishy story behind it. any advice ?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I purchased my car with 5,500 miles on it and a rebuilt title. I got it for a steal. In my case the car was stolen and the insurance company paid it off. When the car was recovered, a rebuilt title was issued after inspection by a dealership certifying the car as roadworthy. Once a title is killed, it cannot be revived... regardless of why it was killed.

The rebuilt title in the case of the car you are looking at is because the car was totalled by the insurance company. This means that the insurance company paid the car off and probably sold it with a salvage title at auction to recoup some of their losses. Whoever purchased the vehicle restored it to operational condition and applied and received a rebuilt title for the car so that it can be registered again.

I would approach this car with caution. Have it fully checked out by a competent shop to look for potential problems that may end up costing you an arm and a leg later. Cars that have been rebuilt are only certified to be roadworthy... that does not mean that they don't have significant mechanical issues. If the car checks out, then you might have found yourself an excellent deal. Keep in mind that the warranty died with the original title so you are on the hook for any future repairs as Hyundai will have nothing further to do with the car. Also, you may find that resale value of the car is further diminished when you re-register it. If you plan to keep the car until the wheels fall off, no big deal. If you think that you are going to trade it in for another car later... forget it. You'll be lucky to get salvage price for the car regardless of what shape its in.
 

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DDM Tuning HIDs don't fit

I just bought the HID kit from DDM Tuning and they don't fit? I got the h7 size bulb as that is what i've read is the size for the headlight, but they are to small to tighten down in the headlight, so did I order the wrong size or what?

These are what I ordered: DDM Tuning 35W and 55W HID Kits
 

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you need H7 adapters.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Have you tried contacting DDM tuning and asking if they have a solution?
 

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My hsd coilovers blew one of my drop links. It's split open and I imagen it won't last long. The coilovers are meant for the 2011+ sway bar links . Can anyone suggest something better? Also the eibach front an rear sway bar kits is their a vendor that can get them and will they come with new sway links?
 

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new tires & PSI

On my OEM wheels, i just got 225/40/18 front and 245/40/18 rear michelin pilot super sports installed by discount tire. Tire can hold 51 psi, but their computers calculated, 39 psi on the fronts and 40 psi on the rears as the recommended tire pressure.

Im wondering how accurate their calculations are, or if there is another method of gauging correct tire pressure for a set of tires for a specific car whether that be a website, contacting the manufacturer of the tire, or suspension shop etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
My hsd coilovers blew one of my drop links. It's split open and I imagen it won't last long. The coilovers are meant for the 2011+ sway bar links . Can anyone suggest something better? Also the eibach front an rear sway bar kits is their a vendor that can get them and will they come with new sway links?
I think we might have to speak the same language because I'm not sure what you are asking. I've posted a diagram of a generic coilover assembly that have numbers pointing to the different parts. What part is split?


The part that connects to the coilover in in the front and the sway bar is the endlink.

If you are looking for replacement endlinks, Enjuku Racing has adjustable endlinks that will work for any strut application: Enthuspec Front Adjustable Sway Bar End Links for Hyundai Genesis Coupe - Enjuku Racing Parts, LLC

Most coilovers are fully rebuildable and you can purchase replacement parts through HSD if it's your strut that is leaking/split.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
On my OEM wheels, i just got 225/40/18 front and 245/40/18 rear michelin pilot super sports installed by discount tire. Tire can hold 51 psi, but their computers calculated, 39 psi on the fronts and 40 psi on the rears as the recommended tire pressure.

Im wondering how accurate their calculations are, or if there is another method of gauging correct tire pressure for a set of tires for a specific car whether that be a website, contacting the manufacturer of the tire, or suspension shop etc.
You rarely want to max out your tire pressure to the maximum rated pressure the tire can hold. Max tire pressure is based on the footprint the tire vs the weight of the car. Tirerack suggests that the ideal pressure for your tire (regardless of size) is the manufacturer's recommended pressure.

Regardless of size, a tire's handling and durability is directly tied to using the appropriate inflation pressure for the vehicle. With a variety of wheel and tire choices for new vehicles, it's essential to rely on the vehicle manufacturer to specify the appropriate inflation pressure for the tires. Using the vehicle's weight capacity for each axle and other considerations, the manufacturer can best calculate the psi needed to ensure the tire handles and performs well.
If you want to figure it out for yourself, you can check a tire load inflation table. You can find one here: http://www.tiresafety.com/images/Tire%20Replacement%20Manual.pdf

Determining the correct tire pressure is in fact a bit more complicated than that because you can use tire pressure to adjust grip to balance the car with regard to grip to correct understeer and oversteer conditions as well as road surface conditions. With all that said, the manufacturer's recommended tire pressure was determined to be the best overall setting with regard to grip, wear, mileage under most driving conditions.
 

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I think we might have to speak the same language because I'm not sure what you are asking. I've posted a diagram of a generic coilover assembly that have numbers pointing to the different parts. What part is split?


The part that connects to the coilover in in the front and the sway bar is the endlink.

If you are looking for replacement endlinks, Enjuku Racing has adjustable endlinks that will work for any strut application: Enthuspec Front Adjustable Sway Bar End Links for Hyundai Genesis Coupe - Enjuku Racing Parts, LLC

Most coilovers are fully rebuildable and you can purchase replacement parts through HSD if it's your strut that is leaking/split.



It's the sway bar link. It's so hard to describe I'm gonna post a photo when I get under the car tomorrow. But the sway bar link at the bottom (the little hour that connects to te actual sway bar) has ruptured. Meaning the little rubber boot that covers the joint has ripped open and is allowing moisture and water to get in. I'm thinking your link will be my solution thanks a lot!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
That's the endlink. Front or rear?
 

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Front. The dealer offered to replace it under warranty (they don't care about modifications) but looking at both sides they seem to be under a lot of pressure . I am not sure how long it will last if I just keep changing oem ones. I need something track worthy (I do plan on going to the track once and a while)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If you are on coilovers OEM endlink will be too long. You either need HSD endlinks or adjustable endlinks to make it right.
 

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Ive always wanted to get an answer on gas consumption when downshifting. Is it better to down shift when coming to a stop, staying in gear (5th for example), or just throwing it into neutral and stopping?
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Downshifting or engine braking not only saves gas but also saves wear and tear on your brake pads. If you have an AFR gauge you'll notice that when you let up off the gas pedal and the throttle closes, your AFR increases to +20. If any gas were introduced into the cylinder with the throttle plate closed your AFR would drop dramatically because there would be relatively little air being mixed with the fuel. At idle your AFR is probably sitting around 16.

Aside from that, you may notice that in many states/countries it is illegal to coast your car in neutral while driving. Driving with your car out of gear can be a dangerous practice if you have to accelerate quickly. In low traction situations choosing the wrong gear for the speed you are traveling can cause the wheels to break traction and lose control of the vehicle.

http://www.greencarcongress.com/2014/01/20140119-ronkko.html
 

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I have one i have yet to find a conclusive answer to.

I've read a few posts on here that claim the OEM intake is actually pretty decent and any aftermarket intakes, whether they be CAI or SRI, give negligible gains at best.

Yet 2nd stage tunes from BTR and SFR specifically request full boltons or risk engine damage.

These 2 points seem to contradict each other.

Does the OEM intake truly require upgrading before higher stage tunes or are they good enough?

Or have i simply interpreted old posts wrong about our OEM intake.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
They do not, actually.

Gains without a tune are negligible because your turbo is not pulling additional air to compress. A tune increases your boost pressure; thus, taking advantage of the additional capacity of a high flow intake.

So... the OEM airbox is optimized for the stock turbo running on a stock tune. If you increase the boost you have to increase the flow capacity of the intake... in the case of a tune that maximizes boost, the stock airbox no longer flows sufficiently to allow for enough air to pass through it and you end up choking your turbo in the process; hence the requirement for an aftermarket intake.
 
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