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What Geek said.

I will also say that the offsets in the fitment thread chart are aggressive so his point about erring on the side of higher offsets is right on. The specs in that chart are for looks and not necessarily daily livability as it relates to poking and rubbing on the fenders, on average they're 10mm more aggressive than I'd personally ever recommend for a stock or sensibly lowered daily driver based on my own experience.
 

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Not sure what you mean by "outdated" chart since there have been no differences with regard to wheel fitment on a Genesis Coupe since 2009. The OEM wheel spec is: F 19x8.0 +35, R 19x8.5 +35, bore 67.1mm bolt pattern 5x114.3.

To simplify your understanding of offset, a higher positive offset moves the wheel closer to the strut; whereas a lower number moves the wheel out towards the fender. In other words, offset simply describes where the hub of the wheel sits in relation to its centerline.

Adding width to the wheel moves the wheel closer to the strut and the fender simultaneously. The ratio is dependent upon the offset of the wheel. A zero offset would mean that adding 1 inch to the wheel would reduce the strut and the fender clearance by 1/2 inch on each side.

If we move the center of the wheel from a zero offset to a +35 offset, that means that an 8" wheel will have more wheel (35mm of it to be exact) closer to the strut than the fender.

Now, how much offset you can have really depends on the thickness of the strut and the amount of camber you have. A negative camber will move the top of the wheel towards the strut and a more positive camber will move the top of the wheel away from the strut.

Lowering the car will have a natural tendency to increase camber; thus reducing strut to wheel clearance and requiring less offset to compensate.

So, the real answer to your question here is that the answer to your question isn't always straightforward; however, if you follow the chart you referenced and stay within stock suspension specs, the wheel will fit as the chart indicates. If you change your suspension specs to be different from OEM, the wheel may or may not fit without adjustments (spacers and/or increased camber). Lastly, you can compensate for a high positive offset using spacers. Low offsets that push the wheel too far out and rub the fender can be a lot more problematic as it is difficult to remove the hub from the wheel and move it out. So, if you have to err... err on the side of a high positive offset.

Now, there are a number of ways you can get the perfect wheel fitment:

A) You can use the chart. This is the 90% solution since a single chart cannot possibly address 100% of all suspension setups.

B) You can do a bit of research and see what other people are running. This involves going over the various wheel threads and looking at people's "garages". If it worked for them, it will probably work for you.

C) You can do math. This is the hard way of doing it, but you will gain an intimate understanding about how wheel width and offset work together.

Keep in mind that the wider the wheel, the more sensitive the offset numbers become as a wider wheel will naturally fill up more of the wheel well and reduce clearance to the strut and the fender at the same time.

Lastly, the widest wheel size you can reasonably fit on a GC is 11 inches in the back and 9.5 inches up front. After that you are going to find that you are either going to have to widen the fender, run extreme offsets, or look extremely funky going down the road. You will hear folks say that you can go wider than the specs I mention; however, keep in mind that there are a number of folks who can't drive their car over 35 mph lest a bump destroys their car. There is a difference between setting a car up to drive and setting a car up to sit in a parking lot with its hood open. I recommend not going wider than 10.5 inches in the back and 9 inches up front. This will give you the most flexibility and the least amount of pain.
Thank you so much for taking the time to give me that information!! Thats exactly what i was looking for so thank you so much! And yes i am not looking for a parked show car rather a fictional performance car! So i will probably stick with 19x9F and 19x10.5R or would you recommend 19x10R? Thanks again man!
 

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Hello, guys
This is my first post. So I just bought a turbo kit it has a kinugawa turbo I'm planning on installing it on my 2011 2.0T Auto. Question is how do I get it tuned and what will work. I was thinking of just using CMD to tune it and later on getting a custom tune. Any ideas ? Thanks
 

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Sorry for the new message I couldn't find how to reply. The only custom tune that's close to me would be SFR I contacted TurboXs but they said they don't tune Automatic cars. With that being said. Is a custom SFR tune worth it ?
 

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It depends on what you consider to be "worth it". They can tune your car.
 

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As long as you are honest with your tuner, you'll be fine. If your tuner tells you that you have to have a particular mod, do it.
 

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You can find it here: https://www.hyundaitechinfo.com/

You'll have to purchase a subscription in order to see the content. Fortunately, you can get a short-term subscription at a very reasonable cost.
 

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3point8 Performance
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I tried looking around but only found numbers for modified heads, heads with different values and 2.0T data. What are the flow numbers for the BK1 and BK2 V6 heads/valves? Heads only, not including the manifold.
 

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Break Necks - Kill Egos
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What is the gear ratio for the 2016 3.8 manual diff?
 

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3point8 Performance
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3.55 if you have the torsen. What model do you have?
Someone is selling that diff and I just wanted to make sure because those are the gears I want haha. Its from a rspec I believe. He said it's a lsd.
 

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3point8 Performance
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Someone is selling that diff and I just wanted to make sure because those are the gears I want haha. Its from a rspec I believe. He said it's a lsd.
Yes, rspec is 3.55 lsd. There is a label on the diff, make them send you a pic of that sticker, it says exactly what the gears are
 

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I tried looking around but only found numbers for modified heads, heads with different values and 2.0T data. What are the flow numbers for the BK1 and BK2 V6 heads/valves? Heads only, not including the manifold.
I think @Ryengoth might have what you need, I know he did some custom head work on his GDi/Turbo/Motec project.
 
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