Subd for responses...

I have just the normal 19" rims and tires, Michelin Pilot Super Sport, 225/245. No camber, but im a novice when i autox.

 

The Genesis Coupe is an STX car, not an STU car. Just FYI.

 

I just went with 245/275 Star Specs because I didn't know what I could fit up front when I was on the stock suspension. The staggered setup makes the car push. I have fit 275/35/18 on the front of my car so next time I'll most likely go with square 275/35s on a set of 9.5+15 RPF1s.

Get the camber bolts ASAP or you'll cord the outer shoulder of your tires. They are legal for RTR or a stock class.




2.0T would be an STU car.

 

Where are you getting that? SCCA rulebook lists the Genesis Coupe 2.0T as an STX car.

 

I didn't realize it fit into STX, hooray for lower PAX! I saw one in the past (apparently mis-classed) running STU. It's odd that the 2013 rulebook lists the 2.0 and not the 3.8.

 

3.8 would also fall under STX under the "Not Otherwise Classified" rules.

 

If you are doing NASA, it is D* class. (D with 7 points)

 

I believe the Gen is staying in STX for the 2010-12 2.0T only. All other versions other than the 2010-12 2.0T are moving to STU. That's the latest I heard anyway.

As far as set ups, I'm running a square 245 set up and love it. Keep in mind I'm on the base model 18s. With the camber bolts and front sway bar, the set up seems to feel incredibly neutral. Most of the time I can floor it out of corners without worrying about sliding (stock class so no extra power) so the extra width isn't worth the extra weight in the rear IMO.

 

im pretty novice at autox (6 events under my belt) but i have progressively altered my setup and seen some great improvements in vehicle capability. i started running my 3.8 track when it was almost completely stock, just substituted stock 19s for 19" g35 rays (same sizing as stocks but lighter). then added camber bolts and was happily surprised at how -1.5* was able to alleviate most of the understeer. i got to a point after 2 events with that setup where i was being let down by the stock tires almost every run. i would have to nervously ride the threshold between grip and slip around every corner, often going out in to slips and some spins.

it was after that when i switched to my current setup. I got 245/35F 265/35R Advan AD08 tires on square 19x8.5 g35 rays (yes i got 4 rears), aligned to -1.8* front with -2.0* rear camber, and kw v3 coilovers (still running kw recommended settings).
I've run 2 events with this setup and im blown away. i ride the gas through almost every turn and every time i know i could have entered faster. havent spun out once since getting this setup, and when the rear starts to slip out a small bit i feel it coming before it happens and can easily recover after it already has or just ride it through with confidence.

hoping to get 1 more event in this year with PCA :fingersx:

 

In the October Fastrack, it says that the first gen 2.0T is going to STU with the rest of the line. Check page 11... http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/assets/13-fastrack-oct.pdf

It's truly a shame because there is 0% chance a first-gen 2.0T could be competitive against a C5 or boost buggy. I bet if enough people wrote letters it could get bumped down to STX. It makes more sense as the first gen 2.0t is in GS and the rest are in DS. Oh well.

I got to put my rspec to good use last weekend for the first time. The difference between the base model and the rspec is felt IMMEDIATELY. Instead of roasting tires I could feel the car hunkering down in high-load corners. I was running it on 18" 245/35 RS3s and was happy to find out that with -1.8 up front there was just enough clearance. At the next event, we will be bolting up the massive 265s on the rear wheels to the front hubs as they have the same wheel width as the stock Rspec wheels. If it works, it's off to buy some 18x8.5 PF01s....maybe get some 285s on there???

My codriver and I have yet to run a square setup...but our car doesn't push at all with the right swaybar setting. I think with a square setup we would be too loose.

Anyone running more negative up front? I have about 5mm of space between the rubber and the strut tower at -1.8...

 

In the October Fastrack, it says that the first gen 2.0T is going to STU with the rest of the line. Check page 11... http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/assets/13-fastrack-oct.pdf

It's truly a shame because there is 0% chance a first-gen 2.0T could be competitive against a C5 or boost buggy. I bet if enough people wrote letters it could get bumped down to STX. It makes more sense as the first gen 2.0t is in GS and the rest are in DS. Oh well.

FWIW, I put in a letter to the SEB requesting the 2010-2012 2.0T remain in STX. I would recommend everyone that is a SCCA member here do the same. The website to do so is sebscca.com. The more support we can get for this the better.

 

Since those are recommendations to the BOD, don't they have to be approved before its official?

 

IMHO, they're all screwed in either STU or STX. Too heavy/wide for STX, not enough tire under it and not enough power (although a 2013+ V6 MIGHT come close) for STU.

Brad : I think you know my setup anyways (DStock '12 V6 R-spec, FStreet in 2014) but for the record

Bars : Whiteline front (bigger bar, on stiffest setting) with custom endlinks, stock rear bar/links

Alightment : -2.1 (bolts maxed) in front, -1.2 rear, zero toe front, SLIGHT toe-in rear. Will note that I intend to play more with alignment in 2014

Shocks : Custom Koni DA front and rear . I know this isn't an option for others (Brad knows why), I do know what I'd try next if the Konis weren't on my car.

Wheels/Tires : 245/40R19 Z2 F/R, 19x8.0F and 19x8.5R G35 Rays wheels (+30 offset front, +33 rear). Most likely going to a set of 18" RPF1s next year (likely with 245/40R18 all around...likely Rival first then see what happens), will run front spacers to maintain the front strut clearance at max negative camber with minimum class legal offset (can go down to +29 since stock wheel is at +35, RPF1 is also at +35 = 6mm spacer).

Note on tires : past experience is that street tires IN GENERAL don't like being squeezed on a rim. In other words, a 265 on an 8.0" rim doesn't effectively put any more rubber down (or work better) than a 245 on the same rim. That said, REALLY stiff sidewalls can make it work (see Hoosier A6 or Kumho V710...I ran 265 A6s all around on the same G35 rims on the car in DS trim)...question is if the Hankook or Rival sidewall is "stiff enough" to make it work. Just might be . Can pretty confidently say the Z2 sidewall is NOT stiff enough to make it work, and the Toyo R1R sidewall is DEFINITELY not stiff enough to make it work.

 

Hello,

Glad I found this thread. I currently do not own a Genesis but I'm looking at possibly purchasing one soon. Right now I have a 2009 CTS-V sedan. I autocross the car and have learned a lot about throttle control. I am running in F Street and personally the car isn't competitive enough and there really isn't much backing from vendors to be competitive in the stock classes.

The best I can do is second or third in FS locally. Last year in RTR I got killed. So far this year two races in I recorded the fastest novice and was still second in my class behind a Mustang GT.

So I am looking at moving towards the Genesis since it had decent power and almost 1000lbs lighter than my car now. I have plans to run it in FS but eventually move it to STU where I can run a bigger wheels and 285 square setup.

I would just like to know how the Genesis is out on track. Does it hold it's own, what suspension setups are people running, how's the gearing are you hitting redline etc.

Thank you for your help and time. - Matt

Here's my fastest novice run: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sXADuPjVTiA&feature=youtu.be

 

I can't chime in much on autocrossing since I haven't done it (track days for me), but I can say that I highly highly doubt you will fit 285's in the front. I'm at 255's and I don't think I can go much more. With -2.1* camber I'm already really close to the struts, and there's not much more room on the outside to the fender.

285's in the rear though is fine.

 

The old 2.0T R-spec works great. I won the College Station tour and Mineral Wells ProSolo in mine. The refreshed models in FS have a huge uphill battle vs. M3s and other muscle cars. I have always wanted to do an ST build but there is no way it would be competitive in STU vs. the 350z and boost buggies.

I hit the limiter all the time on big courses...but it is manageable vs. the other GS cars out there.

 

Im running the OEM 2013 2.0T tires, with bc racing coilovers, -1.5 camber in the front and rear. At 19k milles my tire tread is getting pretty bald so im in the market for new tires. I know that "true" auto-x tires and all season/dd tires are mutually exlusive....but, luckily i live in san diego, so, i dont have to worry so much about running low tread during winter.

Ive read about on the brz/frs and nissan forums about "the closest DD/autox tire setup" where people just get good all season tires and when they auto-x, they inflate them very high, then take a lot of air out for daily driving and say thats the best budget approach..

Im looking to do something similar on the genesis. Lately, and i plan to continue auto-xing give or take 3-4 times a month. On champion days i like to do x runs, so 8 total on those days and then 12 runs on the practice days.

Anyone recommend a good tire set up that'll increase in performance at autoX via inflating it, and then deflating it for daily driving? I aint trying to win any ranking, just have fun, improve my times and not buy tires every 6 months or whatever

I know its wishful thinking, gotta pay to play, but im hoping someone can enlighten me with wisdom.

 

I'm pretty sure that inflation/deflation is flawed. For DD you don't want it high or low. You want it as recommended on the door jam. I think it is 30 psi all around.

For auto x and racing you want more rubber on the ground for more grip = less air. Keep in mind less air means more sidewall on the ground which will wear them out quicker.

As for the tire itself, any all season will be bad to race with. For san diego, you probably don't have to worry about snow, so look for a summer or performance tire and be smart when you drive in the rain.

I have michelin pilot super sports for my car and i really like them, but if you are serious about racing and doing track days etc, you may want to invest in a dedicated set of rims and tires and run something like Nitto NT05 (treadwear 100)

 

Bridgestone RE-11 200UTQG 245/40/19 squared setup. Stiff sidewalls ( I start my first run at 34psi all around). I used to chalk the edges, but now I just keep bleeding them off after every run to maintain 33f-35r-lbs. They will gain 2-4lbs on a typical 50-60 sec autox lap.
And they are not pricey. On the street they are reasonably quiet. Wet performance (not standing water) is excellent. The feel and audible cues when you get to the limit is very predictable. and breakaway is very controllable with the loud pedal.
Slow in--fast out. Lots of style points for maintaining a controlled drift.
Excellent tire wear.
I run -1.5 camber on all corners, and rotate them often since the fronts still do most of the work.
2013 3.8 track 8spd.. STU class.
I did a complete brake overhaul at only 5kmi!
Im in STU due to the 8.5in front rims and the slotted brake rotors,
I fine with that since adjustable coilovers are on the way.
You just cant keep it stock if you want to really push it. no way no how>

 

So im curious about your square set up. You're running the same tires on all four wheels...im assuming then that you're also running the same wheels for those tires.

Our cars were built to have a staggered set up. So, when you changed this to a square set up, im wondering how does this affect the cars handeling? Id imagine you'd need to get a good set of coilovers to adjust the rear and front balance of the car n really dial in on the ride height and spring rates?

 

yep.
I won a set of factory rims on ebay for less than 600$. This way I can run some winter tires on the 8in rims.
The 8.5's up front clear the strut with over 1 degree of camber. I did the math on diameter change and it lifted the car .2in, making it level (no rake).
Now; when I went back for a test and tune day, the difference was incredible. I will do my best to describe it; given my style of driving. It will understeer (plow) if you over cook the turn under braking---But, If you hit your marks, its neutral entry and free. Then I power out on the limit without too much drift. Basically, I throw the car around, and do very well on stock shocks. I will be moving up to adjustable coilovers soon. I flat out won a crowned road course challenge last month (NFS class) with stock shocks, crappy factory brake pads, using only the ESC setting to keep me out of the tire walls.
Cant say enuff about the re-11's 245 all around. simple and cheap since I hurt the left front a little at the road course. I just put it on the back!
The staggered setup is crap. I woulda burnt up the 225's in just a few events (330$ea.!)
Those (OEM's) are my daily tires now. I mounted the OEM 245's to the other 8in rims, and they look great, so now I can slide around all winter on the originals, and get 3 track seasons of use w/ the re-11's.
Good huntin
M
P.S.
Get some good brake pads and some DOT4 fluid if you wanna stop. Hyundai really dropped the ball on the cut down front pads.

 

.

 

Thanks for your input CrazyCalm
I Bought one of those infrared temp gages. I know its not the proper kind, but it can show trends from sidewall to sidewall.
First thing- I went to my favorite interstate 4 leaf clover, and did 2 full circuits near the end of my comfort zone (Armco barriers).
I pulled over as soon as I could and measured the left front. It showed a ten degree drop in temps in the middle with even sidewall temps on 1.25 negative camber and 35psi (cold). This tells me that Im under inflating. But, If I go higher, say 37psi cold, I get off throttle understeer that is beyond my liking and driving style.
Still looking for that Goldilocks' zone.
I recently installed 30 & 26mm bars. This has helped tremendously.
Gens are demanding cars to autox with since they have that initial under steer.
Great for the road track though!

 

Keep in mind that the tires will behave differently when you're going 100%. (And I don't recommend ever doing 100% on the street.)

As far as understeer...it's a bitch to deal with for autocross. Unless you're running the 3.8 or a modified class where you can get more power, I wouldn't bother with bigger tires in the rear. Get a bigger tire up front and match it in the rear. This allows for better control getting the back end loose. The 2.0 doesn't really need any bigger than a 245 in the rear to put the power down.

As a reference, I feel like mine is pretty neutral with the following set up for G Street:
-2.0 deg Camber front (would like a bit more if I could)
-1.5 deg Camber rear (might try a little less like -1.2)
30mm Front sway bar
Stock rear sway bar
245/40/18 Tires on Stock size wheels

 

Hey guys, I wanted to say that I'm glad to see people autoxing in the Genesis. I usually autox with a SM class Evo but it recently spun an engine bearing so I took my 2013 2.0t base for a try. Hear are my thoughts.

So everyone knows the car is stock as stock can be, it only has about 6500 miles on it. Overall I believe the car has alot of potential but has some things that I believe could be taken care of.

Turn in- the car seemed to be slow to respond to steering inputs. I believe this is caused by a few things. First there seems to be slop in the steering/suspension, I think upgraded bushings would do wonders. Also stiffer sway-bars to reduce body roll.

Understeer - I think this is just a matter of fitting some wider rubber up front. I don't know why everybody is afraid to go wider than a 245.

Throttle inputs - This drive by wire is crap. Its seems like the first 75% of throttle input does nothing and then all the sudden the power comes on, it would be nice if the throttle was more linear.

Overall I was satisfied, but if I were to take this car serious I have some changes that would be high on my list.

 

Turn in- the car seemed to be slow to respond to steering inputs. I believe this is caused by a few things. First there seems to be slop in the steering/suspension, I think upgraded bushings would do wonders. Also stiffer sway-bars to reduce body roll.

Understeer - I think this is just a matter of fitting some wider rubber up front. I don't know why everybody is afraid to go wider than a 245.

Keep in mind that several of these things you're proposing are not legal for street classes. Turn in is greatly improved with having the camber bolts and front sway bar. Both also help with the understeer. As far as the tires, for street classes, you simply can't get a tire wider than 245 on the stock front wheels. For an STU, ESP, or SM build, I'd go with either 275 or 285 up front.

 

As you can see by my mods in my signature, I run in STU or SM..depending on the run/work schedule, I sign up for one or the other.

I'm curious about the bigger tires in the front. are you guys saying that'd you'd put 275 tires on the stock front wheels? if not, what would you upgrade the wheels to be?

Also, I'm curious what the pros/cons are of switching from a staggered set up to a square set up if you did this move with the tires. A lot of top end sports cars run a staggered set up, isn't there a good reason for this?

 

No you would definitely need to put wider wheels on. I was going to try my Evo set-up, 17x9 et 38 rim with a 275/40/17 V710, but it would have needed spacers and I didn't have the time to put on extended studs. The nice thing about a base model is you can fit 17s, less weight/cheaper. I believe on a real wheel drive car you do want a wider tire in the rear so you can put the power down, just not such a big difference to induce understeer.

Another thing that I've been wondering for peeps autocrossing with the base 2.0T: Brakes...

For those who have worn out their stock pads or upgraded or whatever, what have you done?

I haven't upgraded the Genesis brakes, but I put Hawk HP+ on the EVO and like them alot. They aren't all that noisy either.

 

Another thing that I've been wondering for peeps autocrossing with the base 2.0T: Brakes...

For those who have worn out their stock pads or upgraded or whatever, what have you done?

 

Front wheels are 18 x 7.5 and rear wheels are 18 x 8. Couldn't you just run a square tire set up on the stock wheels?

 

That's what I do but you can't fit any wider than a 245 on the 7.5 front wheel.

 

Are you able to rotate tires front to back with that set up?