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Hey, bros and sis'! Has anyone with deep pockets installed the BC Stroker kit for the LAMBDA 3.8 that bumps up displacement to 4.2L? Are you guys running just all motor? Or forced induction along with the kit? I would like to know what kind of power you run with just the kit with and without a supercharger or turbo. Also, if you have it, I am envious and congratulations!
 

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shorttrack
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RMR in Calif did 1(turbo) that had 700 hp & 700 ftlb tq to the wheels .
 

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The crankshaft that comes with the BC stroker kit really isn't suitable for use on a street car. It is a classic "drag crank," very heavy with poor provisions for oiling. The crank would need to be drilled, chamfered, knife-edged, and re-balanced to make it work well in a sustained performance application such as a road racer or high-powered street car.

The BC stroker crank works fine for building a drag racer or dyno queen, and those applications are all I've seen it used for so far.

At present, there just isn't adequate after-market support for the Lambada V6 engines. User GenCoupe13 has made great strides in his Las Vagas based shop and there are certainly a lot more parts than there used to be. For now though, stroker builds and big-power builds in general are a $25,000+ proposition.

I don't think the Lambada block is even strong enough to justify using a stroker kit and forced induction at that same time. Bisimoto was able to get over a thousand horsepower out of the stock 3.8 liter displacement. I would want several hundred horsepower more than that in order to justify the cost of using a stroker kit, and at that point you're probably over the limit of what the engine block can withstand.
 

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Hey, bros and sis'! Has anyone with deep pockets installed the BC Stroker kit for the LAMBDA 3.8 that bumps up displacement to 4.2L? Are you guys running just all motor? Or forced induction along with the kit? I would like to know what kind of power you run with just the kit with and without a supercharger or turbo. Also, if you have it, I am envious and congratulations!
You can't just use "traditional" face designed pistons, the engine is direct injection, unless you to convert it to port injection. Direct injection pistons are designed differently.
Then there is the compression. Stock compression on the GDI is 11:1, where the non-GDI is 10.4:1
Increasing the compression further means you are going to have to; scale/increase fuel pressure, get larger injectors(if converted to port injection), and/or at a minimum run premium gas, ideally should be running race gas.

Then there is increase idle vibrations and other idling issues.
 

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As Strange mentioned above, Travis has sourced production of many aftermarket Lambda parts. He's already produced and deployed forged versions of GDI pistons. Essentially you'd only want the rods and crank from the BC kit. But then, I'd get a different crank anyway. And BC's rods(nothing against them really) aren't all that special. You can fairly easily get a billet crank made for slightly less money than BC is asking for their less-than streetable item. Their pricing is quite high for having developed a kit. It's the same as straight custom.

To sum up- there are better parts from better manufacturers to be had for the same or less money.

I've been budgeting for some time on an NA build. So my needs may not reflect your goals.
Here's my current breakdown since Strange brought up the very high price:

High Spec Valves, springs, cams - $2,500 to $3,000
Heads PnP, Radius valve job, CNC matched and contoured Combustion Chambers - $4,000(prototype, costs should come down)
Block Liners and machining - $2,000 ish
Crank - $850 to $4,500 (anywhere from a modified stock crank to a full custom billet stroker)
Rods - ~$1,000 to $2,200(highly customized and feature packed)for steel. $3,800 quoted for titanium.
Pistons - I'm guessing around $1,000 to $1,500 covers almost anything. Still waiting to see if Ti wrist pins are feasible.
Headers - Critical to NA power and "off-the-shelf" top of the line right now is $2,000
Oiling - Race teams have fielded stock Lambda blocks. I don't know if this is critical. Anywhere from a few hundred for mods to $8,000 for a full Dailey Eng. Dry Sump incl. block machining
Cooling - More radiator will probably take care of this. $400 ish for the Koyorad.
Accessories/Supplies(Gaskets, bearings, hoses/lines, fasteners, wear parts, etc.) Maybe $2,000 will cover everything?
Intake(inc. Throttle body) - Again, probably not critical, but we all know this can help. As of yet, no solid cost estimates. Sorry. $???
Fueling - Possibly optional depending on your goals. BK1's have some upgrade options. BK2's are sketchy; BK1 w/ rails, injectors, return system, pump, accumulator... $1,800?
ECU - Possibly optional, but the stock computer won't do this job well. I'm budgeting for a minimum Haltech elite, here. $4,000 with ignition and custom harness?
Surface Treatments(totally optional) - Flame sprayed Ceramic coatings and WPC Treatment everywhere reasonable - $3,600
Tuning - $1,000+ I think it's safe to say professional services here could provide satisfactory results under $3,000.


So, being cautiously pessimistic and monetarily generous, if you want to bore and stroke this thing and wring it out, you're looking at between $17,000 and $44,000. And that's before turbos if you're going that route. And for the record, both Bisi(at 3.8ltrs) and Rhys(at 4.0ltrs) used cams and valve/headwork to get their power figures. And you'll still probably want to do something about the clutch, flywheel, drive shaft, half shafts, subframes, trans, diff, brakes, exhaust, and suspension to deal with the power upgrades. Pretty easy to tally up $25k to $30k extra. Lol, who wants a $90,000 used Hyundai? Oddly, I sorta do.
 

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shorttrack
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I would say to anyone interested in such a build should call Rhys Millen racing in Calif,these guys won pikes peak open class in 2012 with the 4.2 stroker turbo engine (not a drag race engine).Not sure what total combo he used but to those wanting to know ,RMR would be the shop to call .He also won drifting events as well with this combo. Call him .
 

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I would say to anyone interested in such a build should call Rhys Millen racing in Calif,these guys won pikes peak open class in 2012 with the 4.2 stroker turbo engine (not a drag race engine).Not sure what total combo he used but to those wanting to know ,RMR would be the shop to call .He also won drifting events as well with this combo. Call him .
I have spoken with them. They used BC's kit, but didn't bore the cylinders so the displacement is under 4.1ltrs. Also they used stock valves with upgraded springs/retainers and a radius valve job by PortFlow in Harbor city, CA. Honestly, they're not terribly helpful. Maybe if you show up cash in hand in Huntington Beach they'd be more accommodating. They flat refused to sell anyone their cam profiles a while back. It's an odd shop on the gray borders between retail service and skunkworks/competitive racing. Rhys prefers not to tell others about his class winning specs. I might add that's not even unreasonable. I totally understand. Maybe now that they're not using the Genesis platform for competition they'd be more willing to help? IDK
 

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shorttrack
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I have spoken with them. They used BC's kit, but didn't bore the cylinders so the displacement is under 4.1ltrs. Also they used stock valves with upgraded springs/retainers and a radius valve job by PortFlow in Harbor city, CA. Honestly, they're not terribly helpful. Maybe if you show up cash in hand in Huntington Beach they'd be more accommodating. They flat refused to sell anyone their cam profiles a while back. It's an odd shop on the gray borders between retail service and skunkworks/competitive racing. Rhys prefers not to tell others about his class winning specs. I might add that's not even unreasonable. I totally understand. Maybe now that they're not using the Genesis platform for competition they'd be more willing to help? IDK
Knowing what you have found out from your call to RMR it would be a good idea for a person interested in such a build to source a decent engine builder and further the notion for a build .Cams could be sourced from various venders that I am sure would not have a problem in grinding a cam to a given spec (Web Cams inc.).I'm not much into stroker kits due to the increased piston speeds (cylinder wear and bearing failure).Would stand more to gain with race prepped OEM crank and either boost or N2O with better rods and pistons with supporting build items and a good tune .
 
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Knowing what you have found out from your call to RMR it would be a good idea for a person interested in such a build to source a decent engine builder and further the notion for a build .Cams could be sourced from various venders that I am sure would not have a problem in grinding a cam to a given spec (Web Cams inc.).I'm not much into stroker kits due to the increased piston speeds (cylinder wear and bearing failure).Would stand more to gain with race prepped OEM crank and either boost or N2O with better rods and pistons with supporting build items and a good tune .
It doesn't increase piston speed, it cause more mechanical resistance due to travel length, increases the angle of the piston because of the angle of the con rod mid stroke (basically increases piston ring wear).
Translation, lower mechanical redline of the bottom end.

There is a reason why F1 cars are destroked engines... increased redline and more power in higher rpm.
Strokers are all about torque
 

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It doesn't increase piston speed, it cause more mechanical resistance due to travel length, increases the angle of the piston because of the angle of the con rod mid stroke (basically increases piston ring wear).
Translation, lower mechanical redline of the bottom end.

There is a reason why F1 cars are destroked engines... increased redline and more power in higher rpm.
Strokers are all about torque
At the same engine speeds a longer stroke absolutely increases piston speeds. More distance traveled over the same time period. I suppose for something with more variables, like a particular power or torque figure, you could argue that the piston speeds don't necessarily increase. But throughout the entire rev range an engine with a longer stroke will have higher piston speeds than an engine with a shorter stroke. The math is linear and concrete.
 

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Yes, piston speeds are increased with a stroker kit due to the increased length between crank centerline and the center of the large end of the con rod. As mentioned, piston ring wear would increase, as well as piston skirt wear as well due to side-loading, as the angle of the rod-to-bore centerline changes.

An added benefit, not yet mentioned, is the increased dwell time of the piston at TDC. I think a properly designed tune could make hay here due to the GDI and the increased leverage the piston has over the crank on the combustion stroke. More torques.


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shorttrack
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It doesn't increase piston speed, it cause more mechanical resistance due to travel length, increases the angle of the piston because of the angle of the con rod mid stroke (basically increases piston ring wear).
Translation, lower mechanical redline of the bottom end.

There is a reason why F1 cars are destroked engines... increased redline and more power in higher rpm.
Strokers are all about torque
WHAT? Same engine,OEM stroke vs longer stroked crank,the piston of a stroked engine for the same given rpm the piston travels faster as it is traveling further up and down the bore than non stroked OEM crank throws . AKGC, I'm kinda surprise with as much racing you say you did you got this crank /piston speed wrong .
 

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WHAT? Same engine,OEM stroke vs longer stroked crank,the piston of a stroked engine for the same given rpm the piston travels faster as it is traveling further up and down the bore than non stroked OEM crank throws . AKGC, I'm kinda surprise with as much racing you say you did you got this crank /piston speed wrong .
I was speaking in X mins = piston over all travel in a both engine at redline scenario. Plus the non square stroke to bore, adds more vibration.

And a piston rings WILL wear in a irregularly way due to conrod pulling it to the side of the cylinder more, on both mid strokes causing oval-ish wear and also causing the ring edge to round.
Also due to the add stroke angle, you are limited in conrods you can use, because of clearances, unless you want to machine away part of the bottom of the cylinder, which also causes piston oiling issues, because of the piston skirt to be exposed to the crank case as BTC. (speaking about stroked engines in general)
first hand experience. Don't ask me how I know.
 

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shorttrack
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I was speaking in X mins = piston over all travel in a both engine at redline scenario. Plus the non square stroke to bore, adds more vibration.

And a piston rings WILL wear in a irregularly way due to conrod pulling it to the side of the cylinder more, on both mid strokes causing oval-ish wear and also causing the ring edge to round.
Also due to the add stroke angle, you are limited in conrods you can use, because of clearances, unless you want to machine away part of the bottom of the cylinder, which also causes piston oiling issues, because of the piston skirt to be exposed to the crank case as BTC. (speaking about stroked engines in general)
first hand experience. Don't ask me how I know.
What I stated was just simple ,not needed to be interpreted in any other way .Stroked crank vs unstroked crank. A stroked crank at 1 rpm to any given RPM compared to a unstroked crank of the same engine platform will always result in a much higher piston speed .My statement had nothing to do with Rod angle,length of rod ,piston bore,piston skirt and clearancing of block,etc .Only longer stroke = faster piston speed in relation to the given stroked crank vs non stroke crank dimension per same rpm in the same type of engine .
 

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shorttrack
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IT DOESN'T INCREASE PISTON SPEED, it cause more mechanical resistance due to travel length, increases the angle of the piston because of the angle of the con rod mid stroke (basically increases piston ring wear).
Translation, lower mechanical redline of the bottom end.

There is a reason why F1 cars are destroked engines... increased redline and more power in higher rpm.
Strokers are all about torque
''IT DOESN'T INCREASE PISTON SPEED'' ,is what you typed AKGC .All of the ''translation'' you provided was not what I was speaking on .During my stint as an engine builder I used the MEAN PISTON SPEED Calculation .
It is a calculated value of piston speed at a known RPM in an engine having a known stroke length.once again,I'm not speaking crank & rod angles,rod length , prep work etc .
 

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Lol, who wants a $90,000 used Hyundai? Oddly, I sorta do.
Spoken like a true rich guy from Orange County.

LoL, just kidding buddy >:D

While on the subject of ambitious builds, do you know what happened to that dude RyenGoth and his swaybar adapter kits for Genesis Sedan rear subframe swaps? He just dropped off the face of the Internets. I tried hitting up Snoopy Panda about it as I thought he was working on that project as well, but had no luck.

Any idea if one of those kits still exists that I could pick up?
 

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shorttrack
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Spoken like a true rich guy from Orange County.

LoL, just kidding buddy >:D

While on the subject of ambitious builds, do you know what happened to that dude RyenGoth and his swaybar adapter kits for Genesis Sedan rear subframe swaps? He just dropped off the face of the Internets. I tried hitting up Snoopy Panda about it as I thought he was working on that project as well, but had no luck.

Any idea if one of those kits still exists that I could pick up?
I contacted him 1 week ago ,he said that he sold his Gen Coupe .Not enough interest in the platform .He still has the aftermarket ECU he had been working on and it is up for sale .
 

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Spoken like a true rich guy from Orange County.

LoL, just kidding buddy >:D

While on the subject of ambitious builds, do you know what happened to that dude RyenGoth and his swaybar adapter kits for Genesis Sedan rear subframe swaps? He just dropped off the face of the Internets. I tried hitting up Snoopy Panda about it as I thought he was working on that project as well, but had no luck.

Any idea if one of those kits still exists that I could pick up?
Oberle, I already told you, I ain't rich, I just gotta keep up with the dense population of rich guys and their Volks! Lol, my friends all have Evo X's, supercharged BRZ's, and STI's. One even just bought a brand new GT350R! Hell, my gramps has a 991. I got a lot of ground I need to cover. Man, I really live in the wrong place to be poor.

When are we getting another Project Hoondy on Oppo, anyway? Your Spintech sounds awesome!

As far as Ryen is concerned, yeah, he sorta rage quit. I know he was a bit snippy toward the end there, but I really felt bad for him. In over his head and no sense of humor with which to sop up the bad luck and blindsides.

On that note, I started a tubular subframe project about a month back, but one of my other "friends" got irrationally pissed at me and has effectively stolen my spare subframe. I believe there was a threat of lawsuit, hhahahaha! I'll update you via PM as I have progress, but for now that's extremely stalled. I Probably should just buy another spare...
 

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I contacted him 1 week ago ,he said that he sold his Gen Coupe .Not enough interest in the platform .He still has the aftermarket ECU he had been working on and it is up for sale .
Oh snap, you've been able to get a hold of him? Any chance you might want to PM me his contact info? I was really hoping he still had the CAD files for those swaybar adapter brackets, I would offer to pay him for permission to use them. We've made friends with a kick-ass machinist in the Denver area and he's helping us with our build. If we could get the CAD files he could reproduce those brackets very easily.

Oberle, I already told you, I ain't rich, I just gotta keep up with the dense population of rich guys and their Volks!
Hahaha, I knew that line would get a rise out of you! :rofl:

When are we getting another Project Hoondy on Oppo, anyway? Your Spintech sounds awesome!
Thanks man, still can't believe how well the Spintech build came out. We really had no idea what the hell we were doing at first, we know so much more about exhaust now.

My brother has been distracted with all the mad p*ssy he's been drowning in after he moved to Denver. Being a clean-cut non-tattooed guy who doesn't work in the cannabis industry apparently makes him totally irresistible to the local womenfolk. That situation has stabilized though and he's got a regular girlfriend now.



We've been acquiring parts and have teamed up with a local machinist for a huge rear end rebuild in preparation for some amateur drifting shenanigans in 2018. We're going fully bananas with a 4.181 final drive ratio. Sedan rear subframe swap with custom PA66 body mounts. Big cooling upgrades to account for the increased RPM's and hard drifting use. Probably a full suite of ISR pro series adjustable suspension links (any suggestions for other brands?). The crowning glory will be a custom carbon fiber driveshaft.

Our machinist buddy has hooked us up with a little shop in southeastern Wyoming that does killer driveshafts for way, way cheaper than Driveshaft Shop. Our buddy has one on his V8-swapped RX7 drift car and it is f*cking mint.

It's gonna be a great build and will generate a fair bit of content for some Oppo posts. We just need to line up a long enough time slot where we can have the car not running as it is still a daily driver right now.

As far as Ryen is concerned, yeah, he sorta rage quit. I know he was a bit snippy toward the end there, but I really felt bad for him. In over his head and no sense of humor with which to sop up the bad luck and blindsides.
Ehh, as much as I respect the work he did I would say Ryen made a lot of his own bad luck. The dude just bit off more than he could chew financially. He was doing so much all at once. Big turbo build, huge custom ECU effort, massive chassis upgrades with custom machining and whatnot. His itinerary read like the effort of a fully kitted out race shop rather than just a single dude in his garage.

Again, mad props to him for dreaming big, but it looks like he just wasn't being realistic when it came to time frame, money, etc. Hell, Project Hoondy is pretty damn well-funded for what it is and it has still taken us 3 years just to get it about half way done. He just went too hard too fast and burned out from the effort. Damn shame.

On that note, I started a tubular subframe project about a month back, but one of my other "friends" got irrationally pissed at me and has effectively stolen my spare subframe. I believe there was a threat of lawsuit, hhahahaha! I'll update you via PM as I have progress, but for now that's extremely stalled. I Probably should just buy another spare...
You absolute bastard! Just when we're feeling good about ourselves for taking on a sedan subframe swap, you gotta go and one-up us with a full-on tubular subframe!

Such is life when you're a rich guy from Orange County >:D
 

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In order to keep continuity on this thread and stay on topic, I want to point out that I'll be doing some flow testing on Lambda heads in the very near fututre. I'd like to establish a baseline for "All Motor" builds going forward. While the exact specs will probably remain proprietary as they will cost me some serious money to obtain, I do plan to explain what procedures I execute and their incremental affects on flow, cylinder filling, exhaust scavenging, etc. I want to give everyone interested a clear path to follow.

My brother has been distracted with all the mad p*ssy he's been drowning in after he moved to Denver. Being a clean-cut non-tattooed guy who doesn't work in the cannabis industry apparently makes him totally irresistible to the local womenfolk. That situation has stabilized though and he's got a regular girlfriend now.
Doooooood! I hear you loud and clear on the Denver thing. I used to like it there, now I dread coming down from the Rockies onto the plains. I could see where a normal-ish corn fed 'Mericuh boy would be a breath of fresh air to the ladies.

We've been acquiring parts and have teamed up with a local machinist for a huge rear end rebuild in preparation for some amateur drifting shenanigans in 2018. We're going fully bananas with a 4.181 final drive ratio. Sedan rear subframe swap with custom PA66 body mounts. Big cooling upgrades to account for the increased RPM's and hard drifting use. Probably a full suite of ISR pro series adjustable suspension links (any suggestions for other brands?). The crowning glory will be a custom carbon fiber driveshaft.

Our machinist buddy has hooked us up with a little shop in southeastern Wyoming that does killer driveshafts for way, way cheaper than Driveshaft Shop. Our buddy has one on his V8-swapped RX7 drift car and it is f*cking mint.
If you're going to amateur drift in and around Denver, BTW, do some investigating down Albuquerque way. A semi friend of mine named Dan Brockett runs a real informal drift get together thingy rather regularly at Sandia Speedway. Dude is a riot, genuine nice guy and humble. I would encourage anybody with a sense of adventure to hang out with him if they have the chance. You're looking for the "No Coast Drift Party" crew.

On suspension, do me a favor and check out "Feal Suspension" out here in CA. Odi Bakchis shop. He does some custom work on top of his regular offerings. Also, as a pro drift alumnus, he knows very well what he's doing. Also Also, he pro drifted a Genesis coupe, so he's on it. He offered me pretty sweet deal on a custom 2way setup with true coilovers in the rear. I mean to take him up on it in the not too distant future. Of course that means my gently used custom 2 way BC's would be for sale, if you're interested. I was going to have them rebuilt at Feal too, as I want the braided hoses to the external reservoirs to be more tucked and neat. They tend to contact the inboard springs in some circumstances. Not good.

As for links, really the only serious game in town for the BK platform is PSM in San Diego. I've been to their shop. These are good people with excellent parts. Their full suite(especially the front geometry correction and steering angle kit) is the only serious kit off-the-shelf. Not to digg on ISR, their parts are well made, but they're effectively just adjustable factory replacements, while the PSM stuff was carefully thought out by Dan, built off lessons learned from the Z and S chassis cars. Their kit will require true coilovers, though, and some surgery up front. For my money in drift or circuit, it's PSM or full custom fab.

I would EXTREMELY appreciate that Wyoming contact if you'd be so kind as to PM me. I want to settle the drivetrain once and for all. Too many half-a$$ed band-aids that never really solve anything going on in this chassis. I need to revise my exhaust to fit a single piece driveshaft too, so I need to save all the money I can.

You absolute bastard! Just when we're feeling good about ourselves for taking on a sedan subframe swap, you gotta go and one-up us with a full-on tubular subframe!

Such is life when you're a rich guy from Orange County >:D
Yeah, yeah, yeah, you'll be kissing my toes if I can supply you a reasonably priced tubular rear K-member. You build a drift car out of a Gcoupe and you're gonna want one. This sucker is too heavy for pressed sheet metal. I'd like to mention my idiotic plans to build an all motor "pro-daily/amateur hill climb" car from the BK aren't far off from the requirements of low level dorifto.

And Btw, Your brother??? I've finally understood this mythical "We" you've always been on about in your Oppo posts. I was freaking out that you might be some sort of deranged schitzo. "We" this, "we" that... Never did I see mention of the other entity involved. LOLz, Thank you for the clarity!
 
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