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Discussion Starter #1
So put a new starter in and I was still having the same problem of the car starting and then if I tried to immediately restart it wouldn’t. Replaced battery terminals, battery fuse, brake switch, push button switch, no fuses blown and throwing no codes, so took it to Hyundai yesterday to have them put it on diagnostics. What I thought was funny is that I have done all the work and he looked at me like I was stupid because I got help from this forum and doing my research. The Hyundai tech said “they all think their experts” talking about forums. I left and thought what a dick. They called me this morning and told me I needed a new BCM and that it was $1100 plus $200 to flash it. I made sure I asked him the BCM or ECU and he repeatedly told me BCM. What a douche I can buy one new from another Hyundai dealership for $150-$200 and have it flashed for $200 plus 1 1/2 hour labor or I can send it off and have it repaired for $225 and not have to it reflashed and a lifetime warranty at g7computers.com. Why would he think I’m stupid. LOL. Honestly I don’t even know if it is the BCM it could just be a bad ground or something. Because if I let the car sit for a little bit it starts right up and I have been able to get it to restart after shutting it off a couple of times so I think it’s a wire what do you all think and where do I start checking. There are no warning lights on, the only problem is starting and restarting and navigation screen is fading out but the rest of the car is fine?
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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BCM is mostly ground signals. A little corrosion will cause problems with the connectors. Wouldn't hurt to pull it out and clean it up with some contact cleaner.
 

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I am an ASE certed mechanic
Licensed IM tech

I am certed to work on Fords and GM; engine, emmissions, and electrical (not transmissions, or HVAC)

.... thing is, it's not even my profession. I only certed, because I stayed too long in college.
Ford/GM and IM cert was because I went with my dad to texas so he can get certed (his profession through the city/power company)


Anyways, It was likely the when you reversed the connection to the battery (mentioned in the other thread) that it fried the BCM.
The big fuse on the battery terminal is there to try to prevent that, but it's still a cross-your-fingers situation that the fuse blows before it fries something.

Given the same circumstance on any other car, results of the bcm frying or some other component would likely be the same.
I would just take it somewhere else. You're not paying to get lip from someone, and that person isn't being paid to give it.

If your car is not the Canada spec version, and doesn't have the keyless start (not having the immobilizer), then I believe you can just use any non immobilizer equipped bcm, but don't take my word for it.
If it doesn't work, then you would have to get it reprogrammed anyways.

otherwise, the bcm would have to be flashed to match the ecu, tcu (if it's an automatic), and the security module (I know it's not called that. the name escapes me. need more coffee)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
@Red Raspberry and @AKGC
*** Update**** I was so pissed when I picked the car up yesterday because on the phone he told me three times on the phone and I physically asked him Body control module or Electronic Control module and he said BCM. I get there and he says it is the Power Control Module. WTF does this dude even know what he is talking about. Probably not. I told him that I wanted the diagnostic report on it and he said the only thing that will be on there is to replace PCM. It makes no sense. If the ECM is fried it wouldn’t do anything would it? And actually when I picked the car up the dude turned the car off and I was scared it wasn’t going to start but it started right up and then we get home and it continues to start. Let it sit over night it starts up and then it wouldn’t restart but I let it sit an hour and it starts right up and then continues to start after I retry it. What the hell is wrong with this car. Ugh! I need help. Is it the ECU or Body Control Module. I am going to look at wires first but would the car still be drivable if the ECU is fried. I wouldn’t think it would. It has no codes and it sounds fine.
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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Hard to tell if the ECU is damaged if it still acts normal sometimes. Going to have to check it as it fails somehow to see where the problem starts.

The main relay controls the ECU power too so.......
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
@Red Raspberry there are no codes no warning lights nothing. That’s what is weird. All the lights do come on before I start it. Also this starting issue happened prior to me putting in a new starter and hooking up the battery wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
@AKGC this morning I started the car it started right up let it run for a few minutes then turned it off to see if it would start again (so I wouldn’t be stranded somewhere) and it would not start let it sit while I ran errand (about an hour) came home and started it right up turned it off and started it again and it started. I just now went outside started it and it started. Tried to start again it wouldn’t. Waited a few minutes and it starts. I’m going to try to take it to a guy down the road who might have a diagnostics that could possibly tell me. I replaced the PB before I replaced the starter could that be it
 

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shorttrack
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loose battery terminal or corrosion on terminal battery post . Take terminal off , clean ,put back on .
 

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Discussion Starter #12
@shorttrack just replaced both terminals after I replaced the starter. Starter wire maybe. I’m going to put it up on the lift and check the grounds and stuff to make sure before I take it to tuners next week. I can’t figure it out
 

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does the radio turn on, everytime it doesn't start, ie accessory-on?
does the fan for the HVAC turn on when it's having the issue?

Did the dealer actually diagnose the issue, like plug equipment in and ran tests, or did they pretty much guess what the problem is?...

Because to me, is seems like a starter relay.... BUT from listening to the vid again, I do hear the starter solenoid click.
Was the starter motor put in before or after the little battery issue? It could be the starter solenoid not fully engaging.
 

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shorttrack
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@shorttrack just replaced both terminals after I replaced the starter. Starter wire maybe. I’m going to put it up on the lift and check the grounds and stuff to make sure before I take it to tuners next week. I can’t figure it out
that seems to be the problem .1 of the starter wires or battery wires is loose at either end .One would believe this to be the problem especially if the problem started after these items had been changed .Even though it happened before the starter change and the battery cables being hooked up wrong ,I would say loose cable is the problem . Good luck with it .
 

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Discussion Starter #15
does the radio turn on, everytime it doesn't start, ie accessory-on?
does the fan for the HVAC turn on when it's having the issue?

Did the dealer actually diagnose the issue, like plug equipment in and ran tests, or did they pretty much guess what the problem is?...

Because to me, is seems like a starter relay.... BUT from listening to the vid again, I do hear the starter solenoid click.
Was the starter motor put in before or after the little battery issue? It could be the starter solenoid not fully engaging.
Yes the radio and hvac turns on. Well supposedly they ran test but couldn’t give me a report telling me anything. I do know they put an obd2 scanner on it which I did also but if it throws no code the obd2 is useless. I don’t know if they put anything else on it. The dude told me when I asked for the report all it said was “need new PCM”.
This is the original story. Me and my son have an appointment in October went to the appointment and was in there for 1 1/2 to 2 hours came out car started drove home about 15 mins turned car off. 1 hour later my son had to go to work and car wouldn’t start or actually do anything. No lights no nothing. Checked fuses, charged battery, everything. Still would not do anything so researching on here I said I’m going to check starter relay by jumping starter relay to see if the car would start. It would not start so I ordered a starter and put it in. Then after putting starter in car immediately started up but then when we turned it off it would not start. So then I did replacing of battery, hooked it up wrong (like a dummy), replaced the terminals, fuse, etc and here we are. So starting like it is now started after starter put in
 

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Discussion Starter #16
@shorttrack just replaced both terminals after I replaced the starter. Starter wire maybe. I’m going to put it up on the lift and check the grounds and stuff to make sure before I take it to tuners next week. I can’t figure it out
that seems to be the problem .1 of the starter wires or battery wires is loose at either end .One would believe this to be the problem especially if the problem started after these items had been changed .Even though it happened before the starter change and the battery cables being hooked up wrong ,I would say loose cable is the problem . Good luck with it .
Thank you I am going to put it on the lift and check the wires to the starter and ground wires I can’t get to on top.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
@AKGC it’s not the relay I changed it now on to the wiring. If it’s not the starter wire or ground wires what is my next step. Do I take it to a tuning shop and see if they can diagnose it. Could it be the Power Distribution Module under the dash because I know that controls the entire start up of the car?
 

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GeneQueen do you lose power when you try to crank the car? Like do all your lights, radio, and electronics go out? Or do you retain power and the engine doesn't try to turn over?

I was facing some issues when starting my car recently and it was intermittent. Mine was resulting in losing all power (radio, lights, etc. all went out) when trying to start the engine and the power would not come back until I reconnected the battery terminals. Reseating the negative terminal worked a few times and I thought it was that, but after it returned I reseating the positive terminal I have not had problems in weeks. It also seemed to happen only after cold nights (been close to freezing several times in NC over the past month).

I too questioned the starter, battery, and much more. There are a lot of potential issues and intermittent issues are difficult to troubleshoot. I work in IT and intermittent issues are always a pain to troubleshoot. Its easier if it was consistent. I hope you get your issue figured out.

EDIT: when it happened I did get zapped once or twice touching the car. With the weather I often build up static, so I didn't think much of it. So it is possible something was shorting or not grounded. This hasn't happened in weeks either.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
@AKGC @Red Raspberry this is per email from service manager. They are calling it a Power Control Module is that what it is called or are they referring to the power Distribution Module? Because in the service manual it has the PCM and the ECM as the same thing. But the Power Distribution Module as controlling all the relays to make the car start. I think it is the PDM and not the PCM (as they call it). And if it is the PDM does it have to be flashed to the car or can it just be replaced?


“The vehicle was brought in with a no start issue. Technician tested the circuit going to the starter which had no signal being sent to initiate the starting process. He then checked the wiring circuit coming from the starter to the starter relay it had power to the circuit . He then tested the circuit to the power control module from the starter relay it had power to the circuit. Then he tested the circuit from the starter button to the power control module (PCM) and it had power. We had good circuits going to and away from the PCM, but the PCM was not sending a signal to the starter relay to start the vehicle. The PCM controls the starter function for the vehicle and has no electrical signal going out of it requiring the replacement of that part.

The repair was declined and the vehicle was picked up with only a diagnostic charge on the ticket.

To repair this the PCM will need to be replaced at the cost of approximately $1400.00”
 

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Discussion Starter #20
GeneQueen do you lose power when you try to crank the car? Like do all your lights, radio, and electronics go out? Or do you retain power and the engine doesn't try to turn over?

I was facing some issues when starting my car recently and it was intermittent. Mine was resulting in losing all power (radio, lights, etc. all went out) when trying to start the engine and the power would not come back until I reconnected the battery terminals. Reseating the negative terminal worked a few times and I thought it was that, but after it returned I reseating the positive terminal I have not had problems in weeks. It also seemed to happen only after cold nights (been close to freezing several times in NC over the past month).

I too questioned the starter, battery, and much more. There are a lot of potential issues and intermittent issues are difficult to troubleshoot. I work in IT and intermittent issues are always a pain to troubleshoot. Its easier if it was consistent. I hope you get your issue figured out.

EDIT: when it happened I did get zapped once or twice touching the car. With the weather I often build up static, so I didn't think much of it. So it is possible something was shorting or not grounded. This hasn't happened in weeks either.
@shadowtrench I hope you don’t have any more problems. Your right on the intermittent BS it sucks. I don’t lose any power when starting the car. If you look at my thread I posted earlier today you will see what Hyundai says it is. I can start the car now but if I shut it off and immediately try to restart it won’t. It has to sit for 15-20 minutes or longer before it will start again. Hopefully I get it fixed. Lol
 
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