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Hey everyone,
I'm sure a few of you have heard, but for those that have not, Remnant Performance & Alphaspeed is preparing a new 3.8 Turbo Kit for release in September for around $3,500-$4,000USD until the 14th which is much cheaper than what's currently out there.

I've been looking through all the forums.
TurboKits.com & GenRacer both say their kits at 7psi make 500hp > 450whp.

The question is how reliably can our 3.8's handle 7psi and how reliably can our 8-speed's handle that power?

Other threads say the 8-speed is fine up to 435hp (as the Genesis 5.0L makes 420hp). But there's not much consensus on that number.
 

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6 psi is reliable on a good tune. RP turbo kit comes is combined with Alphaspeed tune - most reliable in the buisness ar this point.

Turbokits used to come with BTR can tune and many gave out. Some people run 9psi , but on a good custom tune 3 years
..all in the tune.

I belive for BK2 RP turbo kit is $3,295 +$500 for custom tune. Plus $450 for gaudge kit, which really best to have (otherwise atleast have to buy wideband on it's own) to be able to get tuned.

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Turbokits turbo produced close to 430whp at 7

As far as auto transmission -change trunsmition fluid every 30 - 40k if you are hard on the car or have turbo.
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6 psi is reliable on a good tune. RP turbo kit comes is combined with Alphaspeed tune - most reliable in the buisness ar this point.

Turbokits used to come with BTR can tune and many gave out. Some people run 9psi , but on a good custom tune 3 years
..all in the tune.

I belive for BK2 RP turbo kit is $3,295 +$500 for custom tune. Plus $450 for gaudge kit, which really best to have (otherwise atleast have to buy wideband on it's own) to be able to get tuned.

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I'm also really interested in the RP kit BK2 AT. I have 95k on the car and it has been maintained and not beat on. I'm wondering if 6psi will be safe or should I expect engine to give as a spirited daily. Will the car run high 11s at 6psi?
 

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I'm also really interested in the RP kit BK2 AT. I have 95k on the car and it has been maintained and not beat on. I'm wondering if 6psi will be safe or should I expect engine to give as a spirited daily. Will the car run high 11s at 6psi?
Depends if you know how to drive.
One of the members on here was able to get to 11.6s in 1/4 with full boltons and 100 shot of nitrous (420whp).

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It's how quickly that torque is applied, that kills most transmissions.

with the 8 speed, I would suspect that the torque converter slipping would the first thing to go.
Well I should say, it won't break, but the power transferred through it would slip. It's not a lock-up type torque converter, in the 8 speed.
 

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I'm also hugely interested in the RP turbo kit, also with a 3.8 AT. But I'm nervous. While I have disposable income to spend on this car as a project, I'm not made of infinite money and I do not want to make expensive mistakes like blowing a cylinder or destroying the transmission.

I know enough to be dangerous around cars, but not enough to know about what steps I should really be taking for reliability. I want to do it right and am struggling to find information here or otherwise on what "right" is. I know it varies with the goals (street, drag, AutoX, etc.).

But when RP says "not recommended for stock engine" on the 76mm turbo, do they mean I need cylinder sleeves? Forged rods and pistons? A new billet block? Something else I'm not aware of?

Is it crazy to want a 4.0-4.2L turbo running E85 with one of those awesome 76mm ceramic bearing units? +180WHP, plus more liters, plus more octane all sounds pretty ****ing great to me, but I don't have all the facts and analysis paralysis is killing me. Should I just call Travis at MTMotorsports? Hoping someone out there can talk me through the options and the approximate costs...

I want to join the 3.8T ranks very badly. I have the money. I just don't know the next steps.
 

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I'm also hugely interested in the RP turbo kit, also with a 3.8 AT. But I'm nervous. While I have disposable income to spend on this car as a project, I'm not made of infinite money and I do not want to make expensive mistakes like blowing a cylinder or destroying the transmission.

I know enough to be dangerous around cars, but not enough to know about what steps I should really be taking for reliability. I want to do it right and am struggling to find information here or otherwise on what "right" is. I know it varies with the goals (street, drag, AutoX, etc.).

But when RP says "not recommended for stock engine" on the 76mm turbo, do they mean I need cylinder sleeves? Forged rods and pistons? A new billet block? Something else I'm not aware of?

Is it crazy to want a 4.0-4.2L turbo running E85 with one of those awesome 76mm ceramic bearing units? +180WHP, plus more liters, plus more octane all sounds pretty ****ing great to me, but I don't have all the facts and analysis paralysis is killing me. Should I just call Travis at MTMotorsports? Hoping someone out there can talk me through the options and the approximate costs...

I want to join the 3.8T ranks very badly. I have the money. I just don't know the next steps.
All you need is forged pistons, new rings gapped for turbo, rods.
Stroker is bad idea for turbo, will brake your crank. 67 or 70mm is all u need.

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All you need is forged pistons, new rings gapped for turbo, rods.
Stroker is bad idea for turbo, will brake your crank. 67 or 70mm is all u need.

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Not necessarily, but most won't realize that more fuel and higher octane is needed.

Most domestics with stokers and force induction, that are tuned properly, are rarely streetable.

Stroker = higher compression. Meaning you shouldn't put too much boost.


Cams are another thing. I don't there is anymore making cams for the 3.8
IIRC the stock 3.8 has a 10:1 compression. something like that.
 

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Bisimoto makes cams, though it's my understanding that the price is not very good.

Level 2 cams

Level 3 cams

//edit:

All you need is forged pistons, new rings gapped for turbo, rods.
Stroker is bad idea for turbo, will brake your crank. 67 or 70mm is all u need.
Yeah, but what if I wanted to run one of the bigger 76mm turbos for more power? What then? Rods, pistons, rings, sleeves? More?
 

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Jeez,..been here heard this

Not necessarily, but most won't realize that more fuel and higher octane is needed.

Most domestics with stokers and force induction, that are tuned properly, are rarely streetable.

Stroker = higher compression. Meaning you shouldn't put too much boost.


Cams are another thing. I don't there is anymore making cams for the 3.8
IIRC the stock 3.8 has a 10:1 compression. something like that.
All three great points,...........the first is more applicable than any of you want to believe.

Any moron can spend odles of money and forge his build for, "not that much more horsepower, just to be stable on pump gas"

Gens 3.8 BK2 is a very strong motor, the guys at T kits .com would be the first to admit that many BK1's have popped. Some 3.8 BK2 also. But the majority are ring fialures from pre-det using way to low octane with:
1. High compression pistons and
2. To much boost.

So everyone is waay intersted in the price tag of this RP kit,...maybe shes great, maybe not so great. Opinions are like assholes. Lets see someone pony up get one, and stop the speculation.

OP my 3.8 Turbo is solid as a rock,...then again I'm tuned for 98 or higher octane which I use all the time meth injection and the 8 AT is a bad ass,..you just have to keep the fluid cool.
Also in reality as an AT, if you insist on repetitious 1/4 mile torture, you will break something. It wont be that the kit or the tune or the car or the trans was anyway crappy.

Oh and these trans do lock up quick, but you need a Korean guy who knows how to do this. He's not available anymore. I know because I was lucky enough to stumble into it while it was available. As good as Alpha might be taunted they dont know the first dam thing abount tuning the TCU inconjunction with your turbo ECM tune. Anyone that is suggesting that its not important or not true, just isnt speaking the truth.

If your a MT, have at it. If your a 8AT I would do more research and find the option I mention from someone that knows.

Again, I have this setup,..22K on this setup.

As far as boost, your oem innards are completely safe at 5-6 psi on 93 pump gas with M/W

If you have 98-100 octane and pure meth, I have 474/476/ 481(dyno JET) Cozzolini's here in INDY. dyno runs at 8.5 psi
I got 9.5 psi max tune but have never used it.

***I Daily her at 6.5 with a boost T. Turn it up to 7.5 pretty frequently when I want to show off.

Dont get me wrong I'm not knockin the new kit. It would be great if it could be done well that much cheaper. I just dont think so,...guess we will see. You are the lab rat.

T.kits stuff is all great, finely jigged, perfect fit, quality is evident. Yes you pay for it.
 

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Just a note here. This kit (RP) has been t
tested for over two years. Alec been running it on his car and showed dynos.
It all started on this forum when he wanted to see interest in who wanted alternative turbo kit that was not very overpriced. He got shut down by moderators for even asking.
RP is a low overhand start up just like 3point8performance - a fellow Gen members who wanted to to something more than sit in their asses and wait for a company to come up with product or buy overpriced stuff.

Now Alec is bringing it out after going tru revisions and finding less expensive better builders (price came down quite a bit) .

This kit on it's own includes lots of supporting items that TC does not. Price is not low because its trash, its low because it's not a height dollar buisnes that has 30 employees to feed and need asyronomic profits.

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Also to note, you will still make power at 0 psi with an added turbo.

the stock motor makes about 15~25 psi of vacuum
that's work being done by the cylinders.
meaning at 0 psi, that's less work that the pistons have to do, which translates more work towards power.
 

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Oh and these trans do lock up quick, but you need a Korean guy who knows how to do this. He's not available anymore. I know because I was lucky enough to stumble into it while it was available. As good as Alpha might be taunted they dont know the first dam thing abount tuning the TCU inconjunction with your turbo ECM tune. Anyone that is suggesting that its not important or not true, just isnt speaking the truth.

If your a MT, have at it. If your a 8AT I would do more research and find the option I mention from someone that knows.
Is BTR the only one that can tune the trans and does there tune have what's needed? Alphaspeed told me they can't do anything with the TCU like you stated.
 

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Is BTR the only one that can tune the trans and does there tune have what's needed? Alphaspeed told me they can't do anything with the TCU like you stated.
Only SFR can do TCU now.

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Is BTR the only one that can tune the trans and does there tune have what's needed? Alphaspeed told me they can't do anything with the TCU like you stated.
BTR no longer has the tuner who did my car. Note that to be effective the tuner has to have both the ECM and the TCU. They must be done together.

Jay at SFR lists a TCU tune but I can not give you an accurate read on what it does or not. I would venture to say if you wanted this done you need to contact Jay directly,...good luck with that.

Ignore anyone that inplies the two arent connected at the hip. There are a multitude of limp modes/limiters that both share and influence each other on. They have to be removed/mediated/de-conflicted when adding as much power as you are contemplating.:surprise:

I'm sorry I dont have a better answer for you.
 

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Also to note, you will still make power at 0 psi with an added turbo.

the stock motor makes about 15~25 psi of vacuum
that's work being done by the cylinders.
meaning at 0 psi, that's less work that the pistons have to do, which translates more work towards power.
Did you mean in of Hg?LOL.

How true. My meth is set to spray a t 1 psi. In reality she starts spraying at -5 in HG.
 

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Did you mean in of Hg?LOL.

How true. My meth is set to spray a t 1 psi. In reality she starts spraying at -5 in HG.
For the point I was trying to make, it means the same thing. Less suction that the pistons make, the more towards power.


As for TCU tuning, I would suggest getting in contact with a shop that tunes other cars with ZF transmissions.....BUT then they would either need the hyundai tuning suite (which I doubt they will have)
Or, would need to get direct access to the TCU (good luck with that. IIRC the TCU is located IN the transmission. The transmission fluid would need to be drained, pan dropped, to get access to it)
 

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The 8AT TCU is right next to the ECU, same style rack and connector. Only SFR has a TCU tune at the moment, but AS may get it worked out eventually. Sam would not release his TCU tune, unfortunately. However, it's not a necessity, the 8AT can handle the power with no issues. Mine made 467whp/429wtq with the 8AT even before the BTR TCU tune. You just need an upgraded trans fluid cooler. Which if you go boosted, it's a good idea to get a better radiator anyway, which would eliminate the factory trans cooler since they're integrated. Get a stacked plate Derale cooler from Autozone or O'Reilly's and some extra hose.
 

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I just realized that I need to pass emissions in my county, and I can't run catless, which means I can't run turbo. :( Gutting my primary cats and killing the primary O2 sensor = fail visual, fail OBD2.
 
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